Sew Your Own Kimono: A Step-by-Step Guide

The kimono, a traditional Japanese garment, is renowned for its elegance, simplicity, and timeless appeal. While often associated with formal occasions, the kimono’s comfortable and flowing design makes it surprisingly versatile for modern wear. Whether you’re a seasoned sewist or a confident beginner, crafting your own kimono is a rewarding project that allows you to personalize this iconic piece and add a touch of Japanese artistry to your wardrobe.

This comprehensive guide provides a detailed, step-by-step approach to sewing a kimono, covering everything from choosing the right fabrics and taking accurate measurements to assembling the garment and adding finishing touches. We’ll focus on a simplified, unlined kimono suitable for everyday wear. Get ready to embark on a creative journey and create a beautiful kimono that reflects your personal style!

What You’ll Need

Before you begin, gather the necessary materials and tools. Having everything organized will streamline the sewing process and ensure a smoother experience.

• Fabric: The amount of fabric you’ll need depends on your desired kimono length and sleeve style. A general estimate is 6-8 yards of fabric for an adult-sized kimono. Consider the fabric width as well; wider fabrics may require less yardage. Traditional kimono fabrics include silk, cotton, linen, and rayon. For a beginner-friendly project, cotton or linen are excellent choices due to their ease of handling and pressing. Choose a fabric with a beautiful drape for a more elegant look. Consider the season and climate; lighter fabrics are ideal for summer, while heavier fabrics are suitable for cooler months. Consider pre-washing your fabric to prevent shrinkage after the kimono is sewn.
• Lining Fabric (Optional): If you wish to line your kimono, you’ll need the same amount of lining fabric as your main fabric. Choose a lightweight, breathable lining such as silk crepe de chine or cotton voile. A lining provides added structure, warmth, and opacity. For an unlined kimono, this is not needed.
• Matching Thread: Select thread that closely matches your fabric color. Polyester thread is a good all-purpose option.
• Sewing Machine: A reliable sewing machine is essential for this project. Ensure your machine is in good working order and that you have the appropriate needle for your chosen fabric.
• Scissors or Rotary Cutter and Mat: Sharp scissors or a rotary cutter and mat are necessary for accurate fabric cutting.
• Measuring Tape: An accurate measuring tape is crucial for taking precise body measurements and transferring them to your fabric.
• Pins: Use pins to secure fabric pieces together before sewing.
• Iron and Ironing Board: Pressing seams is a vital step in achieving a professional finish.
• Seam Ripper: A seam ripper is handy for correcting any mistakes.
• Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Marker: Use tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker to mark cutting lines and seam allowances on your fabric.
• Ruler or Yardstick: A ruler or yardstick is helpful for drawing straight lines and measuring long distances.
• Kimono Pattern (Optional): While this guide provides instructions for drafting your own pattern, you can also use a commercially available kimono pattern as a starting point.

Taking Measurements

Accurate measurements are key to a well-fitting kimono. Have someone assist you with taking these measurements for best results. Wear the type of clothing you’d typically wear under your kimono when taking measurements.

• Back Length: Measure from the nape of your neck (the prominent bone at the base of your neck) down to your desired kimono hemline. This is the most critical measurement, determining the overall length of your kimono.
• Sleeve Length: Measure from the shoulder point (where your shoulder meets your arm) down to your desired sleeve hemline. Traditional kimono sleeves are typically quite long, often extending to the wrist or even slightly beyond.
• Sleeve Depth: Measure from the shoulder point down to the desired bottom edge of the sleeve opening. This measurement determines the width of the sleeve.
• Back Width: Measure across your back from shoulder point to shoulder point.
• Chest/Bust Circumference: Measure around the fullest part of your chest/bust, keeping the measuring tape parallel to the floor. Add a few inches for ease of movement.
• Hip Circumference: Measure around the fullest part of your hips, keeping the measuring tape parallel to the floor. Add a few inches for ease of movement.
• Neck Width: Measure across the base of your neck from shoulder point to shoulder point.

Drafting the Pattern Pieces

Now that you have your measurements, it’s time to draft the pattern pieces. This process involves drawing the shapes of the kimono pieces directly onto your fabric or pattern paper using your measurements.

Important Note: All seam allowances are assumed to be 1/2 inch unless otherwise specified. Add 1/2 inch around all pattern pieces when cutting the fabric.

1. Kimono Body (Front and Back)

The front and back pieces of the kimono are typically identical, simplifying the construction process. You’ll cut two pieces for the front and one piece for the back (or two back pieces if your fabric isn’t wide enough to cut on the fold).

1. Rectangle Dimensions: The main body pieces are rectangles. The length of the rectangle is equal to your back length measurement plus seam allowances. The width of the rectangle is equal to half of your chest/bust circumference plus seam allowances and additional ease (typically 4-6 inches for comfortable layering).
2. Cutting: Cut two pieces for the front and one piece for the back (on the fold if your fabric is wide enough)

2. Sleeves

Kimono sleeves are traditionally wide and rectangular, offering a distinctive silhouette.

1. Rectangle Dimensions: The sleeve pieces are also rectangles. The length of the rectangle is equal to your sleeve length measurement plus seam allowances. The width of the rectangle is equal to your sleeve depth measurement plus seam allowances.
2. Cutting: Cut two sleeve pieces.

3. Collar (Optional)

The collar is a long, narrow strip of fabric that finishes the neckline of the kimono. While some kimonos have elaborate collars, we’ll create a simple, straight collar for this project.

1. Rectangle Dimensions: The collar piece is a rectangle. The length of the rectangle is equal to twice your back length measurement plus seam allowances. The width of the rectangle is typically 3-4 inches, depending on your preference.
2. Cutting: Cut one collar piece. Consider cutting a second piece if you want a double-layered collar or using interfacing to give it more structure.

4. Front Panels (Optional)

The front panels are added to the front pieces of the kimono. The length will vary depending on design. The width is usually about 4 to 5 inches.

1. Rectangle Dimensions: The front panels are rectangles. The length of the rectangle is equal to your back length measurement plus seam allowances. The width of the rectangle is typically 4-5 inches, depending on your preference.
2. Cutting: Cut two front panel pieces.

Cutting the Fabric

With your pattern pieces drafted, it’s time to cut the fabric. Follow these steps for accurate cutting:

1. Prepare the Fabric: Lay your fabric on a flat surface, such as a cutting table or the floor. Ensure the fabric is smooth and free of wrinkles.
2. Lay Out Pattern Pieces: Arrange your pattern pieces on the fabric, taking into account the fabric’s grainline (the direction of the lengthwise threads). The grainline should typically run parallel to the center back of the kimono and the length of the sleeves. Maximize fabric usage by arranging the pattern pieces efficiently.
3. Pin or Trace: Secure the pattern pieces to the fabric with pins or trace around the edges of the pattern pieces with tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker.
4. Cut the Fabric: Carefully cut along the marked lines, using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter and mat. Remember to add the 1/2 inch seam allowance around all pattern pieces if you haven’t already included it in your pattern.
5. Mark Notches (Optional): Mark notches along the edges of the fabric pieces to help with alignment during sewing. Notches are particularly useful for matching curved edges or indicating the center points of pieces.

Sewing the Kimono

Now comes the exciting part – assembling your kimono! Follow these instructions carefully, pressing each seam as you go for a professional finish.

1. Attach Front Panels (Optional)

1. Pin the front panel pieces to the front pieces of the kimono, aligning the edges.
2. Sew along the edge, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
3. Press the seam allowance towards the front panel.

2. Shoulder Seams

1. Pinning: Place the two front pieces on top of the back piece, right sides together. Align the shoulder seams and pin securely.
2. Sewing: Sew along the shoulder seams, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
3. Pressing: Press the seam allowances open or towards the back.

3. Attaching the Sleeves

1. Pinning: Pin the sleeves to the armholes of the kimono body, right sides together. Align the center of the sleeve with the shoulder seam and the edges of the sleeve with the edges of the armhole. The sleeve will be slightly gathered or eased into the armhole.
2. Sewing: Sew along the armhole seams, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Sew slowly and carefully, especially when easing the sleeve into the armhole.
3. Pressing: Press the seam allowances towards the body of the kimono.

4. Side Seams and Sleeve Seams

1. Pinning: Fold the kimono body in half, right sides together, aligning the side seams and the sleeve seams. Pin securely from the hem of the kimono to the end of the sleeve.
2. Sewing: Sew along the side seams and sleeve seams in one continuous line, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
3. Pressing: Press the seam allowances open or towards the back.

5. Attaching the Collar

1. Folding and Pressing: Fold the collar piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. This creates a crease down the center of the collar.
2. Pinning: Pin the collar to the neckline of the kimono, right sides together. Align the center of the collar with the center back of the kimono. The raw edges of the collar should be aligned with the raw edges of the neckline. Leave a small amount of the collar extending beyond the front edge of the kimono.
3. Sewing: Sew along the neckline, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
4. Turning and Pressing: Turn the collar to the inside of the kimono and press.
5. Finishing the Collar: Fold the raw edge of the collar to the inside and pin. Edgestitch along the folded edge of the collar, securing it to the inside of the kimono. You can also hand-stitch the collar in place for a more invisible finish. At the front, fold the excess collar fabric inward at a 45 degree angle and sew it in place. This will create a clean edge for your kimono.

6. Hemming the Kimono and Sleeves

1. Folding and Pressing: Fold the hem of the kimono and the sleeves up by 1/2 inch and press. Then, fold the hem up again by another 1/2 inch and press. This creates a double-folded hem that encloses the raw edge of the fabric.
2. Sewing: Sew along the folded edge of the hem, securing it in place. Use a straight stitch or a blind hem stitch for a more invisible finish.

Adding Finishing Touches

Congratulations! You’ve sewn your own kimono. Now, add some finishing touches to personalize your creation and enhance its beauty.

• Belt (Obi): A traditional obi (belt) is an essential accessory for a kimono. You can purchase a pre-made obi or sew your own. Simple fabric sashes also work well for a more casual look.
• Embellishments: Consider adding embellishments such as embroidery, applique, or decorative trim to personalize your kimono.
• Lace Trim: Adding lace trim to the collar or sleeves adds a delicate and feminine touch.
• Buttons or Snaps: While traditional kimonos don’t have closures, you can add buttons or snaps to the front for added security or style.
• Care Instructions: Be sure to check the care instructions for your chosen fabric and follow them carefully to ensure the longevity of your kimono.

Tips for Success

• Choose the Right Fabric: Select a fabric that is appropriate for your skill level and the intended use of the kimono.
• Take Accurate Measurements: Precise measurements are crucial for a well-fitting garment.
• Press Seams: Pressing seams as you sew will create a professional finish.
• Sew Slowly and Carefully: Take your time and focus on accuracy.
• Don’t Be Afraid to Experiment: Personalize your kimono with your own unique style.

Adapting the Pattern for Different Styles

Once you’ve mastered the basic kimono construction, you can easily adapt the pattern to create different styles and variations.

• Different Sleeve Styles: Experiment with different sleeve shapes and lengths. You can create wider sleeves, narrower sleeves, or even bell sleeves.
• Different Lengths: Adjust the length of the kimono to create a short jacket, a mid-length robe, or a full-length gown.
• Different Fabrics: Use different fabrics to create kimonos for different occasions and seasons. Silk is ideal for formal events, while cotton and linen are perfect for casual wear.
• Adding a Lining: Adding a lining to your kimono will provide added warmth, structure, and opacity.

Conclusion

Sewing your own kimono is a rewarding and creative experience. By following this step-by-step guide, you can create a beautiful and unique garment that reflects your personal style. Embrace the simplicity and elegance of the kimono and enjoy wearing your handmade masterpiece!