Orchids, with their exotic beauty and elegant blooms, are a coveted addition to any indoor plant collection. However, many orchid enthusiasts face the common frustration of their prized plants refusing to flower after their initial display. The good news is that getting your orchids to rebloom is not a matter of luck, but rather of understanding their specific needs and providing the right care. This comprehensive guide will delve into the intricacies of orchid reblooming, offering detailed steps and instructions to help you coax your orchids back into their flowering glory.
Understanding the Basics: Why Orchids Refuse to Rebloom
Before we dive into the “how,” it’s crucial to understand the “why.” Orchids, particularly the commonly grown Phalaenopsis (moth orchids), are epiphytes in their natural habitat. This means they grow on trees, deriving moisture and nutrients from the air and rainfall, not from the soil. Replicating these conditions indoors is the key to encouraging reblooming. Several factors can prevent orchids from flowering:
- Insufficient Light: Orchids need bright, indirect light to initiate flower spikes. Too little light will prioritize foliage growth over flowering.
- Improper Watering: Overwatering can lead to root rot, while underwatering causes dehydration, both of which hinder reblooming.
- Incorrect Temperature: Orchids are sensitive to temperature changes. A consistent, appropriate temperature range is crucial for flowering.
- Lack of Humidity: Most orchids thrive in humid environments. Dry air can stress the plant, inhibiting flowering.
- Insufficient Nutrients: Orchids need the right balance of nutrients to produce blooms. Nutrient deficiencies can prevent flowering.
- Age and Maturity: Young orchids may not be mature enough to bloom. Similarly, some older orchids may eventually decline in their flowering capacity.
- Incorrect Cutback Practices: Cutting back the flower spike improperly can prevent future blooms.
- Stress Factors: Changes in environment, repotting, or pest infestations can stress the plant and disrupt its blooming cycle.
The Key to Reblooming: Essential Care Practices
Now that we understand the common reasons for non-blooming orchids, let’s explore the specific steps you can take to encourage reblooming. Here’s a comprehensive guide:
1. Light: The Spark for Flowering
Identifying the Right Light:
The ideal lighting for most orchids is bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, especially during the hottest parts of the day, as it can scorch the leaves. A south- or east-facing window is often ideal, but use a sheer curtain to diffuse direct sunlight if it’s too intense. If your orchid receives direct light, you’ll notice the leaves turn reddish or yellow. Lack of light leads to darker green leaves. The proper color for leaves should be medium-green.
Testing Your Light Levels:
- Shadow Test: Place your hand between the light source and your orchid. If the shadow is well-defined, the light is too bright. If the shadow is very faint or almost invisible, the light is too weak. A good shadow is a slightly blurred shadow
- Light Meter App: Use a light meter app on your phone for a more precise reading. Aim for around 10,000-20,000 lux (1,000-2,000 foot-candles) for most orchids.
Adjusting Light: If your orchid is not receiving enough light, move it to a brighter spot, or supplement with a grow light. If your orchid is getting too much light, move it away from the window or use a sheer curtain. Aim for at least 12 to 14 hours of light per day for the best results. You can use fluorescent bulbs for this purpose, placed 12 inches away from the plants.
2. Watering: Finding the Perfect Balance
The Importance of Proper Watering:
Overwatering is one of the most common mistakes that orchid owners make. Orchid roots need to dry out between waterings to prevent root rot. However, allowing your orchid to dry out completely for an extended period can be detrimental as well.
Watering Frequency:
There is no one-size-fits-all rule for watering orchids. The frequency depends on factors such as the potting mix, humidity, temperature, and light levels. Generally, you should water your orchid when the potting mix feels dry to the touch (usually every 7 to 10 days for the Phalaenopsis and 1 to 3 days for Dendrobium, and 7 to 14 for Cattleya or Cymbidium). This will depend on your local environment.
Watering Method:
- Soaking: Place the orchid pot in a bowl of room-temperature water, allowing the potting mix to soak up water from the bottom for 10-15 minutes. Then, remove the pot and allow it to drain completely before returning it to its usual spot. This is the preferred method for most orchids.
- Running water: Place the orchid in your sink, and let water run through the pot for about a minute. Then, allow the pot to fully drain before returning it to its normal position.
- Ice Cubes: While using ice cubes is a popular method, particularly for Phalaenopsis orchids, it may not be the most efficient way to water your orchids. This practice can lead to uneven watering and the roots will be exposed to colder temperatures.
Identifying the Need for Water:
- Potting Mix: The potting mix should be dry to the touch before the next watering
- Pot Weight: A dry orchid pot will be significantly lighter than a recently watered one.
- Root Color: Healthy orchid roots are firm, plump, and green (if translucent when wet), or grey-silvery when dry. When they turn brown or mushy, this means the roots are rotting.
Water Quality:
Use lukewarm water for watering your orchids, preferably filtered or rainwater. Avoid using tap water which may contain chlorine and minerals that can build up in the potting mix and damage the roots.
3. Temperature: Creating the Right Environment
Optimal Temperature Range:
Most orchids prefer a daytime temperature between 65-75°F (18-24°C) and a nighttime temperature between 55-65°F (13-18°C). A slight temperature drop at night is particularly important for Phalaenopsis orchids to initiate flowering.
Avoiding Temperature Extremes:
Protect your orchid from drafts and avoid placing it near heating or cooling vents or direct sunlight, which can cause temperature fluctuations and stress the plant.
4. Humidity: Creating a Tropical Vibe
Ideal Humidity Levels:
Orchids prefer a humidity level between 50-70%. Dry indoor air, especially during winter, can be a major challenge.
Increasing Humidity:
- Humidity Tray: Place the orchid pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring that the bottom of the pot does not touch the water. The evaporating water will increase the humidity around the orchid.
- Grouping Plants: Grouping orchids together can create a microclimate with higher humidity.
- Humidifier: If the air in your home is particularly dry, use a humidifier to increase the overall humidity levels.
- Misting: Misting around the orchid can temporarily increase humidity, but it may not be a long-term solution. Be careful not to mist the blooms directly, as this can lead to fungal issues.
5. Fertilizing: Fueling Growth and Blooms
Fertilizing Needs:
Orchids are not heavy feeders. Over-fertilizing can be harmful to their delicate root systems.
Choosing the Right Fertilizer:
Use a balanced, diluted orchid fertilizer, specifically formulated for orchids, with an NPK ratio of 20-20-20 or similar. Some experts advise using 10-10-10 for flowering orchids after they have developed their flower spikes.
Fertilizing Frequency:
Feed your orchid every 2-4 weeks during its growing season (spring and summer), using a fertilizer diluted to half or quarter strength. Reduce the frequency during the fall and winter when the plant is dormant. Always water the plant first before fertilizing. This will prevent root burn.
6. Potting and Repotting: Providing Support and Drainage
The Importance of Orchid Potting Mix:
Never use regular potting soil for orchids. They need a well-draining, airy potting mix specifically designed for orchids. Common mixes include orchid bark, sphagnum moss, perlite, and charcoal.
When to Repot:
Repot your orchid every 1-2 years, or when the potting mix starts to break down, or when the plant is becoming root-bound. The best time to repot is after the orchid has finished blooming or when new growth is appearing.
Repotting Steps:
- Gently remove the orchid from its old pot, carefully teasing the roots apart.
- Inspect the roots and trim away any dead or rotting roots with sterile scissors.
- Place a small layer of fresh potting mix at the bottom of the new pot.
- Position the orchid in the center of the new pot, and carefully fill around the roots with the new potting mix.
- Gently press the potting mix around the roots.
- Water the repotted orchid thoroughly, and then allow it to drain completely.
7. Pruning Flower Spikes: The Art of the Cutback
When and How to Prune:
After your orchid has finished blooming, you can prune the flower spike. For Phalaenopsis orchids, you can cut the stem just above the node (the small bump) below the lowest spent bloom. Sometimes a new flower spike can grow from this node. You may also cut the spike completely at the base if it looks dry and yellowing. If you cut the spike at the base, be sure to use a sterile cutting tool to reduce the risk of infection.
8. Inducing Reblooming in Phalaenopsis Orchids: The Temperature Drop Trick
The Nighttime Temperature Dip:
Phalaenopsis orchids are often triggered to bloom by a noticeable drop in nighttime temperature. Try reducing the temperature by about 10°F (6°C) for a few weeks. This can be achieved by placing the orchid near a window at night, in a room with lower temperature, or by reducing thermostat settings.
9. Patience: The Most Important Ingredient
The Waiting Game:
Orchids need time to rebloom. Do not be discouraged if your orchid does not produce a flower spike immediately. Be patient and continue to provide the correct care. With consistent effort, you will be rewarded with new flowers.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even with the best care, you may encounter challenges when trying to rebloom your orchids. Here are some common problems and their solutions:
- Yellowing Leaves: Often caused by overwatering, under watering or too much sun. Adjust your watering schedule and move your orchid to an area with less direct sunlight. If the leaf is still green, but the top is turning yellowish, it can be a sign of not enough light.
- Soft, Mushy Roots: A sign of root rot, caused by overwatering. Repot your orchid into fresh potting mix, cutting off any damaged roots.
- Wrinkled, Leathery Leaves: Often caused by dehydration. Increase watering frequency and humidity.
- No Flower Spikes: Insufficient light, temperature fluctuations, or lack of nutrients can all lead to a lack of flower spikes. Review the light, temperature and fertilizing guidelines.
- Pests: Spider mites, mealybugs, and aphids can attack orchids. Use an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil to treat infestations.
- Fungal Infections: Often caused by overwatering and poor air circulation. Increase air flow and reduce the humidity. If the problem persists, you may need a fungicide.
Conclusion: The Rewarding Journey of Orchid Reblooming
Getting your orchids to rebloom is a rewarding journey that requires patience, attention to detail, and a deeper understanding of their unique needs. By providing the right light, water, temperature, humidity, nutrients, and proper care, you can coax your orchids back into their flowering glory, enjoying their magnificent blooms year after year. Remember that every orchid is different, and it may take time to find the right balance for your specific plant. Don’t be afraid to experiment and adjust your approach as needed, and soon you’ll be an orchid reblooming expert! With some dedication and the tips provided in this comprehensive guide, your home will be adorned with the captivating beauty of blooming orchids once again. Happy growing!