Restringing your mandolin might seem daunting at first, but with a little practice and the right tools, it’s a simple task that will keep your instrument sounding its best. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step, ensuring your mandolin is properly restrung and ready to play. We’ll cover everything from choosing the right strings to troubleshooting common issues.
**Why Restring Your Mandolin?**
Strings are the lifeblood of any stringed instrument. Over time, they lose their elasticity, become corroded, and simply don’t sound as bright and clear as they once did. Regularly restringing your mandolin is essential for several reasons:
* **Improved Sound Quality:** New strings produce a brighter, more resonant tone, enhancing your instrument’s overall sound.
* **Better Intonation:** Old strings can stretch unevenly, leading to inaccurate intonation (the ability to play in tune across the fretboard).
* **Easier Playability:** Fresh strings are smoother and easier to press down, making playing more comfortable, especially for beginners.
* **String Breakage Prevention:** Old, worn strings are more prone to breaking, especially during performances or practice sessions. Regular string changes reduce the risk of unexpected string failure.
**How Often Should You Restring?**
The frequency of string changes depends on several factors, including how often you play, the type of strings you use, and your playing style. Here’s a general guideline:
* **Casual Players (a few times a week):** Every 2-3 months.
* **Regular Players (daily practice):** Every 4-6 weeks.
* **Professional Musicians (gigging frequently):** Weekly or even before each performance.
You’ll also want to change your strings if you notice any of the following:
* **Dull or lifeless sound:** If your mandolin no longer sounds bright and clear.
* **Difficulty staying in tune:** If the strings stretch excessively or refuse to hold their pitch.
* **Visible corrosion or dirt:** If the strings are discolored or feel rough to the touch.
* **String breakage:** Replace the entire set when one string breaks, as the others are likely nearing the end of their lifespan.
**Tools and Materials You’ll Need:**
Before you begin, gather the following tools and materials:
* **New Mandolin Strings:** Choose a set that matches your mandolin’s scale length and your preferred gauge (string thickness). We’ll discuss string selection in more detail later.
* **String Winder:** This tool makes winding the strings around the tuning posts much faster and easier.
* **Wire Cutters:** For trimming the excess string length after restringing.
* **Tuning Fork or Electronic Tuner:** To ensure your mandolin is properly tuned after restringing.
* **Soft Cloth:** To wipe down the instrument’s neck and body.
* **(Optional) Fretboard Conditioner:** To moisturize the fretboard and keep it in good condition.
* **(Optional) Bridge Adjustment Tool (if applicable):** Some mandolins have adjustable bridges. If yours does, you might need a small screwdriver or wrench to adjust the bridge height or intonation.
**Choosing the Right Mandolin Strings:**
Mandolin strings come in various materials, gauges, and windings. Here’s a breakdown of the key factors to consider:
* **Material:**
* **Steel:** Steel strings are the most common type and offer a bright, clear tone with good projection. They are typically used in bluegrass and other genres where a strong, cutting sound is desired.
* **Bronze:** Bronze strings provide a warmer, mellower tone compared to steel strings. They are often preferred for folk, Celtic, and classical music.
* **Phosphor Bronze:** Phosphor bronze strings are similar to bronze strings but have a slightly brighter and more complex tone. They are also more resistant to corrosion.
* **Gauge:** Gauge refers to the thickness of the strings. Mandolin strings are typically sold in sets with the gauge listed as a series of numbers (e.g., 11-15-26-40). The first number represents the gauge of the thinnest string (the E string), and the last number represents the gauge of the thickest string (the G string).
* **Light Gauge (e.g., 10-14-24-36):** Light gauge strings are easier to play and produce a brighter, more delicate tone. They are a good choice for beginners or players with a lighter touch.
* **Medium Gauge (e.g., 11-15-26-40):** Medium gauge strings offer a good balance of playability and tone. They are the most common choice for mandolin players.
* **Heavy Gauge (e.g., 115-16-27-41):** Heavy gauge strings produce a louder, more powerful tone with greater sustain. They are often preferred by bluegrass players who need to be heard in a loud ensemble.
* **Winding:** The winding refers to the material and method used to wrap the core wire of the thicker strings (G and D strings). Common winding materials include:
* **Roundwound:** Roundwound strings have a round wire wrapped around the core, creating a textured surface. They produce a bright, clear tone with good sustain.
* **Flatwound:** Flatwound strings have a flat wire wrapped around the core, creating a smooth surface. They produce a warmer, mellower tone with less sustain.
* **Half-Round Wound:** These strings offer a blend of roundwound and flatwound characteristics. They have a smoother feel than roundwounds but still retain some of the brightness and sustain.
**Step-by-Step Guide to Restringing Your Mandolin:**
Now that you have your tools and materials, let’s get started. Follow these steps to restring your mandolin:
**1. Remove the Old Strings:**
* **Loosen the Strings:** Use your string winder or tuning pegs to loosen each string until it’s slack enough to remove from the tuning post. It’s best to loosen them a bit at a time, alternating between strings to avoid uneven tension on the neck.
* **Cut the Strings (Optional):** If the strings are very old or corroded, you can use your wire cutters to cut them in the middle before removing them from the tuning posts and bridge. This can make the removal process easier and prevent the strings from scratching the instrument’s finish.
* **Remove from Tuning Posts:** Once the strings are loose, carefully unwind them from the tuning posts. Pay attention to how the strings were wound originally. Usually, they are wound from the inside of the headstock outwards to maintain proper string angle over the nut. Note the direction each string is wound around the tuning post before removal.
* **Remove from Bridge/Tailpiece:** Carefully detach the strings from the tailpiece or bridge. Some mandolins have a tailpiece with hooks or loops that the strings attach to, while others have a bridge with slots or pins. Note how the strings are attached for reference when installing the new strings.
**2. Clean and Inspect:**
* **Clean the Fretboard:** Now is a good time to clean the fretboard. Use a soft cloth to wipe away any dirt, grime, or oil that has accumulated on the frets and the wood. For stubborn dirt, you can use a fretboard cleaner or conditioner.
* **Condition the Fretboard (Optional):** If the fretboard looks dry, apply a small amount of fretboard conditioner to moisturize the wood. Apply a thin layer and let it sit for a few minutes before wiping off any excess. Be careful not to over-apply conditioner, as this can make the fretboard sticky.
* **Inspect the Nut and Bridge:** Check the nut and bridge for any signs of wear or damage. Look for cracks, chips, or grooves that could cause string buzzing or intonation problems. If you find any issues, you may need to have the nut or bridge repaired or replaced.
* **Wipe Down the Instrument:** Use a soft cloth to wipe down the entire instrument, including the neck, body, and headstock. This will remove any dust or fingerprints and keep your mandolin looking its best.
**3. Install the New Strings:**
* **Start with the G Strings:** Begin by installing the G strings (the thickest strings). This will help to balance the tension on the neck.
* **Attach to Tailpiece/Bridge:** Thread the end of the G string through the appropriate slot or hook on the tailpiece or bridge. Make sure the string is seated properly and securely.
* **Thread Through Tuning Post:** Bring the other end of the G string up to the tuning post and thread it through the hole. Pull the string through the hole, leaving enough slack to wrap around the post several times. The exact amount of slack will depend on the distance between the tuning post and the bridge, but a good rule of thumb is to leave about 2-3 inches of slack.
* **Wind the String:** Use your string winder or your fingers to wind the string around the tuning post. Make sure the string winds evenly and neatly, starting from the inside of the headstock and winding outwards. This will help to maintain proper string angle over the nut and prevent the string from slipping. Overlap the string winds, so the new winds lock the previous winds in place against the headstock.
* **Repeat for Other Strings:** Repeat the process for the D, A, and E strings, following the same steps as for the G strings. Be sure to wind each string in the correct direction around the tuning post. The G and D strings are wound in one direction, and the A and E strings are wound in the opposite direction. Refer to how the old strings were wound.
**4. Stretch the Strings:**
* **Stretch Gently:** After installing all the strings, gently stretch them to help them settle in. To do this, hold the string near the bridge and gently pull upwards. Repeat this process several times for each string, working your way up the neck.
* **Retune:** After stretching the strings, they will likely go out of tune. Use your tuning fork or electronic tuner to bring them back up to pitch. Repeat the stretching and tuning process several times until the strings hold their tune consistently.
**5. Tune the Mandolin:**
* **Tune to Standard Tuning:** The standard tuning for a mandolin is G-D-A-E, from lowest to highest. Use your tuning fork or electronic tuner to tune each string to its correct pitch.
* **Check Intonation:** Once the mandolin is tuned, check the intonation. This is the accuracy of the pitch as you play up the fretboard. To check intonation, play a harmonic at the 12th fret of each string. The harmonic should be exactly one octave higher than the open string. If the harmonic is sharp or flat, you may need to adjust the bridge position.
**6. Trim the Excess String Length:**
* **Trim Carefully:** Use your wire cutters to trim the excess string length at the tuning posts. Leave about 1/2 inch of string extending past the tuning post. Be careful not to cut the strings too short, as this could cause them to slip off the tuning posts.
* **Bend the Ends:** Bend the ends of the trimmed strings so that they don’t poke you or snag on anything.
**Troubleshooting Common Issues:**
* **String Buzzing:** String buzzing can be caused by several factors, including low action (the height of the strings above the frets), uneven frets, or a loose nut or bridge. To troubleshoot string buzzing, first check the action. If the action is too low, you may need to raise the bridge. If the frets are uneven, you may need to have them leveled by a professional. If the nut or bridge is loose, tighten it or have it repaired.
* **Strings Slipping:** Strings slipping off the tuning posts can be caused by not winding the strings properly or by using strings that are too thin for the tuning posts. To prevent strings from slipping, make sure you wind them evenly and neatly, starting from the inside of the headstock and winding outwards. You may also need to use thicker strings.
* **Difficulty Tuning:** Difficulty tuning can be caused by old strings, a loose tuning post, or a faulty tuner. To troubleshoot difficulty tuning, first try replacing the strings. If the tuning post is loose, tighten the screw that holds it in place. If the tuner is faulty, you may need to replace it.
* **String Breakage:** String breakage can be caused by old strings, excessive tension, or sharp edges on the nut or bridge. To prevent string breakage, replace your strings regularly and avoid over-tightening them. Check the nut and bridge for any sharp edges and smooth them out with sandpaper if necessary.
**Tips for Maintaining Your Mandolin Strings:**
* **Wipe Down the Strings After Playing:** Wipe down the strings with a soft cloth after each playing session to remove sweat, oil, and dirt. This will help to prevent corrosion and extend the life of the strings.
* **Store Your Mandolin Properly:** Store your mandolin in a case or gig bag when you’re not playing it. This will protect it from dust, humidity, and temperature changes.
* **Use a String Cleaner:** Use a string cleaner periodically to remove stubborn dirt and grime. There are many commercially available string cleaners, or you can make your own by mixing equal parts water and isopropyl alcohol.
* **Loosen the Strings When Traveling:** If you’re traveling with your mandolin, loosen the strings to reduce the tension on the neck. This will help to prevent damage from temperature changes and rough handling.
* **Consider Coated Strings:** Coated strings have a thin polymer coating that protects them from dirt, oil, and corrosion. Coated strings typically last longer than uncoated strings, but they can also sound slightly different.
**Conclusion:**
Restringing your mandolin is a simple but essential maintenance task that will keep your instrument sounding its best. By following the steps outlined in this guide, you can easily restring your mandolin and enjoy a brighter, more resonant tone. Remember to choose the right strings for your playing style and to maintain your strings properly to extend their lifespan. With a little practice, you’ll be restringing your mandolin like a pro in no time!