Is your Kenmore dryer running but not heating? This is a common issue that can be frustrating, leaving you with damp clothes and wasted time. Fortunately, in many cases, you can diagnose and fix the problem yourself without calling a professional repair technician. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the most common causes of a Kenmore dryer not heating, providing detailed troubleshooting steps and instructions. We’ll cover everything from basic checks to more advanced repairs, helping you get your dryer back up and running efficiently.
Understanding the Basics of Dryer Operation
Before diving into troubleshooting, it’s helpful to understand how a dryer works. A typical dryer uses a heating element (in electric dryers) or a gas burner (in gas dryers) to heat air. A blower fan circulates this hot air through the dryer drum, evaporating moisture from your clothes. The moist air is then vented outside. If any part of this process is disrupted, your dryer may not heat properly.
Safety First: Before You Begin
Important: Before you start any troubleshooting or repair work, always disconnect the dryer from its power source. For electric dryers, this means unplugging it from the wall. For gas dryers, unplug the power cord AND turn off the gas supply valve. Safety is paramount to prevent electric shock or gas leaks. If you are uncomfortable working with electricity or gas, it’s best to call a qualified technician.
Common Causes of a Kenmore Dryer Not Heating and How to Troubleshoot Them
Here are the most frequent reasons why a Kenmore dryer might fail to heat, along with step-by-step troubleshooting instructions:
1. The Dryer is Not Getting Power (Electric Dryers)
Symptoms: The dryer won’t turn on at all, or the drum doesn’t rotate.
Troubleshooting Steps:
- Check the Power Cord: Make sure the power cord is securely plugged into the outlet. Examine the cord for any signs of damage, such as frayed wires or burns. If the cord is damaged, replace it immediately.
- Check the Circuit Breaker: Locate the circuit breaker in your home’s electrical panel that controls the dryer. Ensure the breaker is not tripped (switched to the “off” position). If it is, reset it by switching it completely off and then back on. If the breaker trips repeatedly, there may be an underlying electrical issue that requires professional attention.
- Check the Outlet: Use a multimeter to test the voltage at the outlet. An electric dryer typically requires a 240-volt outlet. If the voltage is incorrect, you’ll need to consult an electrician.
- Check the Thermal Fuse (Electric Dryers): The thermal fuse is a safety device that cuts power to the heating element if the dryer overheats. It’s a common culprit for dryers that stop heating. The thermal fuse is typically located on the dryer’s blower housing. To check it:
- Disconnect the dryer from power.
- Locate the thermal fuse. Refer to your dryer’s service manual for its exact location.
- Remove the fuse.
- Test the fuse with a multimeter set to continuity. If the multimeter shows no continuity (an open circuit), the fuse is blown and needs to be replaced.
2. The Gas Supply is Shut Off (Gas Dryers)
Symptoms: The dryer runs, but there’s no heat.
Troubleshooting Steps:
- Check the Gas Valve: Make sure the gas supply valve connected to the dryer is fully open. The valve is usually located behind the dryer or on the gas supply line.
- Check Other Gas Appliances: Verify that other gas appliances in your home, such as your stove or water heater, are working properly. If none of your gas appliances are working, there may be a problem with your main gas supply. Contact your gas company immediately.
- Check the Igniter/Glow Bar (Gas Dryers): The igniter (also called a glow bar) heats up to ignite the gas in the burner. If the igniter is faulty, it won’t ignite the gas, and the dryer won’t heat. To check the igniter:
- Disconnect the dryer from power and gas.
- Locate the igniter. It’s typically located near the gas burner assembly.
- Visually inspect the igniter. Look for any cracks or breaks in the igniter. If it’s damaged, it needs to be replaced.
- Test the igniter with a multimeter set to ohms. If the multimeter shows no continuity (an open circuit), the igniter is faulty and needs to be replaced.
- Check the Gas Valve Solenoids (Gas Dryers): Gas dryers use two or three solenoids to control the flow of gas to the burner. If one of these solenoids fails, the gas won’t flow, and the dryer won’t heat. To check the solenoids:
- Disconnect the dryer from power and gas.
- Locate the gas valve solenoids. They’re attached to the gas valve assembly.
- Test each solenoid with a multimeter set to ohms. A good solenoid will have a specific resistance reading (check your dryer’s service manual for the correct value). If a solenoid shows no continuity (an open circuit) or a significantly different resistance reading, it’s faulty and needs to be replaced.
3. The Dryer Vent is Clogged
Symptoms: The dryer takes a long time to dry clothes, clothes are hot and damp, or the dryer shuts off prematurely.
Troubleshooting Steps:
- Clean the Lint Trap: This is the most basic step. Clean the lint trap before every load to ensure proper airflow.
- Inspect the Dryer Vent Hose: Disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer and from the wall. Check for any clogs or obstructions. Use a dryer vent brush to thoroughly clean the hose.
- Check the Outside Vent: Go outside and locate the dryer vent opening. Make sure it’s not blocked by snow, debris, or a bird’s nest.
- Clean the Dryer Vent Duct: The ductwork that runs from the dryer to the outside vent can also become clogged with lint. It’s recommended to clean the dryer vent duct at least once a year (or more frequently if you dry a lot of clothes). You can use a dryer vent cleaning kit, which typically includes a long brush and extension rods.
- Ensure Proper Venting: The dryer vent should be made of rigid metal or flexible metal (not plastic or foil) and should be as short and straight as possible. Long, winding vents are more prone to clogs and reduce airflow. The maximum recommended length for a dryer vent is 25 feet, with a deduction of 5 feet for each 90-degree bend and 2.5 feet for each 45-degree bend.
4. Faulty Heating Element (Electric Dryers)
Symptoms: The dryer runs, but there’s no heat, or the heat is very weak.
Troubleshooting Steps:
- Disconnect the dryer from power.
- Access the Heating Element: The heating element is typically located at the back of the dryer, inside a metal housing. You’ll need to remove the back panel of the dryer to access it.
- Visually Inspect the Heating Element: Look for any breaks, burns, or signs of damage on the heating element coils. If the element is visibly damaged, it needs to be replaced.
- Test the Heating Element with a Multimeter: Set your multimeter to ohms. Place one probe on each terminal of the heating element. A good heating element will have a resistance reading (check your dryer’s service manual for the correct value). If the multimeter shows no continuity (an open circuit), the heating element is faulty and needs to be replaced.
5. Faulty Thermostat or Thermistor
Symptoms: The dryer heats intermittently, overheats, or doesn’t heat at all.
Troubleshooting Steps:
- Understanding Thermostats and Thermistors: Dryers use various thermostats and thermistors to regulate the temperature inside the drum. These components can fail, causing the dryer to overheat or not heat properly.
- Locate the Thermostats and Thermistors: The location of these components varies depending on the dryer model. Refer to your dryer’s service manual for their exact location. Common locations include the blower housing, the heating element housing, and the exhaust duct.
- Test the Thermostats and Thermistors with a Multimeter:
- Disconnect the dryer from power.
- Remove the thermostat or thermistor.
- Test the component with a multimeter set to ohms. The resistance reading should fall within a specific range (check your dryer’s service manual for the correct value). The resistance may also change with temperature. If the resistance is outside the specified range or doesn’t change with temperature, the component is likely faulty and needs to be replaced.
- Specific Thermostat/Thermistor Tests:
- High-Limit Thermostat: This thermostat protects the dryer from overheating. It should have continuity at room temperature. If it has no continuity, it’s blown and needs to be replaced.
- Cycling Thermostat: This thermostat regulates the dryer’s temperature. Its resistance will vary depending on the temperature.
- Thermistor: A thermistor is a temperature-sensitive resistor. Its resistance changes with temperature.
6. Defective Timer or Electronic Control Board
Symptoms: The dryer cycles improperly, doesn’t start, or doesn’t heat.
Troubleshooting Steps:
- Timer (Older Models): If your dryer has a mechanical timer, a faulty timer can prevent the dryer from heating. This is less common in newer dryers with electronic controls.
- Electronic Control Board (Newer Models): Newer dryers use an electronic control board to control all dryer functions, including heating. A faulty control board can cause various problems, including a lack of heat.
- Testing the Timer or Control Board: Testing these components typically requires specialized knowledge and equipment. It’s often best to consult a qualified technician to diagnose and repair timer or control board issues. You can visually inspect the control board for burnt components; however, this is not always a reliable indicator of failure.
7. Faulty Centrifugal Switch (Electric Dryers)
Symptoms: The dryer runs but does not heat. The motor runs but the heating element receives no power.
Troubleshooting Steps:
- Understanding the Centrifugal Switch: The centrifugal switch is located on the dryer’s motor. It is designed to provide power to the heating element *only* when the motor is running. If the switch is faulty, it may not close, preventing power from reaching the heating element, even though the motor is turning.
- Accessing the Centrifugal Switch: You will need to access the motor to reach the centrifugal switch. This usually requires removing the dryer’s front or back panel. Refer to your dryer’s service manual for specific instructions.
- Testing the Centrifugal Switch:
- Disconnect the dryer from power.
- Locate the centrifugal switch on the motor. It is usually a small switch located on the motor shaft.
- Visually inspect the switch. Look for any signs of damage or corrosion.
- Test the switch with a multimeter set to continuity. When the motor is *not* running, the switch should be open (no continuity). When the motor *is* running (you will need to simulate this carefully and safely – see warning below), the switch should close (have continuity). You may need to manually actuate the switch while the motor is *not* running to test its function.
- *WARNING* Testing the switch while the motor is running is dangerous and should only be performed by experienced technicians with proper safety precautions. The motor can cause serious injury if not handled correctly. Consider replacing the switch if you are not comfortable with this test.
- Replacing the Centrifugal Switch: If the centrifugal switch is faulty, it will need to be replaced. This usually involves disconnecting the wiring from the switch and removing it from the motor. Install the new switch in the reverse order.
Kenmore Dryer Troubleshooting Flowchart
Here’s a simplified flowchart to help you navigate the troubleshooting process:
- Dryer not turning on at all? Check power cord, circuit breaker, and outlet (Electric Dryers).
- Dryer turns on, but no heat?
- Gas Dryer? Check gas supply valve, igniter/glow bar, and gas valve solenoids.
- Electric Dryer? Check thermal fuse and heating element.
- All Dryers: Check dryer vent for clogs.
- If vent is clear and heating element/gas components seem ok, check thermostat/thermistor.
- If thermostats are OK, suspect timer/electronic control board or centrifugal switch (electric).
- Dryer takes too long to dry? Check dryer vent for clogs.
Preventative Maintenance Tips
To prevent future problems with your Kenmore dryer, follow these preventative maintenance tips:
- Clean the Lint Trap Regularly: Clean the lint trap before every load.
- Clean the Dryer Vent Duct Annually: Clean the dryer vent duct at least once a year to remove lint buildup.
- Inspect the Dryer Vent Hose Regularly: Check the dryer vent hose for any clogs or damage.
- Don’t Overload the Dryer: Overloading the dryer can reduce airflow and increase drying time.
- Replace the Dryer Vent Hose if Needed: Replace plastic or foil dryer vent hoses with rigid metal or flexible metal hoses.
- Check the Outside Vent Regularly: Make sure the outside vent is not blocked by debris.
When to Call a Professional
While many dryer problems can be fixed DIY, there are times when it’s best to call a qualified appliance repair technician. These situations include:
- You are uncomfortable working with electricity or gas.
- You have difficulty diagnosing the problem.
- You suspect a problem with the timer, electronic control board, or motor.
- You smell gas, even after turning off the gas supply.
- The problem persists after trying the troubleshooting steps.
Tools You Might Need
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
- Multimeter
- Dryer vent brush
- Socket set
- Pliers
- Work gloves
- Safety glasses
- Dryer vent cleaning kit (optional)
Finding Replacement Parts
If you need to replace any parts, you can find them at appliance parts stores or online retailers. Make sure to purchase parts that are specifically designed for your Kenmore dryer model. Having your model number handy will expedite the process of finding the correct parts.
Conclusion
A Kenmore dryer that’s not heating can be a major inconvenience. By following these troubleshooting steps, you can often diagnose and fix the problem yourself, saving time and money. Remember to always prioritize safety and consult a qualified technician if you’re uncomfortable working with electricity or gas. With a little patience and effort, you can get your dryer back to working order and enjoy dry, fluffy clothes once again.