Mastering the Curve: A Comprehensive Guide to Cutting Perfect Bias Binding

Bias binding, a seemingly simple strip of fabric, is a cornerstone of many sewing projects. Its ability to stretch and curve gracefully around edges makes it ideal for finishing necklines, armholes, quilts, and a variety of other curved seams. While commercially available bias tape is convenient, learning to cut your own allows for complete control over fabric choice, color, and width, leading to truly customized and professional-looking finishes. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the process of cutting your own bias binding, from understanding the concept of ‘bias’ to step-by-step instructions using several methods. Get ready to unlock a new level of sewing precision!

Understanding the ‘Bias’

Before we dive into cutting, it’s crucial to understand what ‘bias’ actually means. Woven fabrics are constructed with threads running lengthwise (the warp) and crosswise (the weft). The bias grain runs diagonally at a 45-degree angle to both the warp and weft. This diagonal direction is where the fabric has the most stretch and flexibility. When we cut bias binding, we take advantage of this stretch to allow the binding to mold smoothly around curves without puckering or pulling.

Think of it like this: if you were to pull on a woven fabric along the straight grain (warp or weft), it wouldn’t stretch much at all. But if you pull on it diagonally, you’ll notice a significant give. That stretch is what we need for successful bias binding.

Why Cut Your Own Bias Binding?

While store-bought bias tape is readily available, making your own offers several advantages:

• Custom Fabric and Color Matching: You have complete freedom to choose the exact fabric that matches or complements your project. This level of customization is impossible with pre-made options.
• Width Control: You can create bias binding in any width you need, whether it’s narrow for delicate edges or wider for more substantial finishes.
• Fabric Quality: You control the quality of the fabric used for the binding, ensuring it matches the quality of your project.
• Cost-Effective: Making your own bias binding can be more economical, especially if you have fabric scraps to utilize.
• Perfectly Matched Prints: When working with patterned fabrics, cutting your own bias binding allows you to carefully position the pattern for a more professional look.
• Therapeutic and Satisfying: There’s a certain satisfaction in creating something from scratch, and making bias binding is no exception!

Tools You’ll Need

Before we begin, let’s gather the necessary tools:

• Fabric: Choose a fabric that complements your project. Cotton is a common choice, but you can use various fabrics, including silk, linen, and blends.
• Rotary Cutter: A rotary cutter is the best tool for creating clean, precise cuts, especially over long distances.
• Rotary Cutting Mat: Always use a cutting mat to protect your work surface and keep your rotary cutter blade sharp.
• Clear Acrylic Ruler: A large, clear ruler with clear markings is essential for accurate measurements.
• Fabric Marking Tool: A chalk marker, fabric pen, or even a sliver of soap will work to mark your lines.
• Iron and Ironing Board: Ironing your fabric is crucial before cutting. Pressing helps remove wrinkles and ensure accurate cuts.
• Pins: Pins help secure layers of fabric, especially if you are cutting multiple layers at once.
• Optional: Bias Tape Maker: This handy tool helps quickly fold and press your bias strips.

Method 1: The Continuous Bias Method (Most Efficient)

This method is ideal for making a long length of bias binding and minimizes fabric waste. It involves creating a tube of fabric, cutting spirally along the bias, and requires a bit more setup, but it is very efficient for larger projects.

1. Prepare Your Fabric: Start by pressing your fabric to remove any wrinkles. Square up your fabric by ensuring one edge is straight. Make sure the corners are 90 degree angles.

2. Create a Square: Cut your fabric into a square. The size of your square will determine how much bias tape you get. If your fabric is rectangular, trim it into a square.

3. Fold Diagonally: Fold one corner of your square to the opposite corner, creating a triangle and crease along the fold line. This crease line is the bias grain.

4. Cut the Triangle: Cut along this fold line. You will now have two triangles.

5. Arrange the Triangles: Take one triangle and lay it flat. Take the other triangle, rotate it by 180 degrees, and place it with the shorter side overlapping the matching shorter side of the other triangle, with the right sides together. Make sure the points of the triangles are opposite to each other, creating a rhombus or a parallelogram. The edges which make up the longer edges of the rectangle should line up, and one will be facing the opposite way (up if the other is down).

6. Sew the Seam: Sew the two short sides together with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. You now have a tube of fabric. Press this seam open for a flatter surface.

7. Mark Your Lines: With a fabric marker and your clear ruler, draw parallel lines across the entire surface of your fabric tube, starting from a seam, and continuing all the way around in a spiral, using the width you want your bias binding. For example, you want 1 inch bias strips, so draw 1 inch parallel lines across the surface. You can even use a chalk marker to draw these lines. If you need to do a very long amount of binding, draw it in two halves (or more) so you don’t have to draw across an area that would get too long. You can then line them up and connect them at a later stage.

8. Cut Along the Lines: Using your rotary cutter and ruler, carefully cut along the marked lines to create one long, continuous strip of bias binding. You will start at one end and then continuously cut spirally until you have cut all the way around and reached the start of the fabric.

9. Join Pieces if necessary: If you have to cut in halves or thirds, join the strips where the two ends meet using a straight 1/4 inch seam allowance and then press it open.

Method 2: The Traditional Bias Cutting Method (Simple and Straightforward)

This method is simpler and great for beginners, but it might result in more fabric waste than the continuous method. It’s ideal if you only need a small amount of bias binding.

1. Prepare your fabric: Start with a piece of fabric with one straight edge and press it to remove any wrinkles.

2. Mark the Bias Line: Align your ruler along the straight edge of the fabric. Use your ruler to mark a line that is at a 45-degree angle to the straight edge. For this, you can use the 45-degree line markings on your ruler.

3. Mark the First Bias Strip: Position your ruler along the bias line you just marked, at the width you want for the bias strip. For example, for a 1 inch width, mark at 1 inch increments. Create more parallel lines marking each bias strip.

4. Cut the First Strip: Carefully cut along the first bias line using your rotary cutter and ruler.

5. Cut Remaining Strips: Continue cutting along the marked lines, using your ruler and rotary cutter. You will now have multiple bias strips ready to use.

6. Join Strips if necessary: You will likely have multiple shorter strips. To join them, lay two strips together, right sides facing, at a 90-degree angle, with the edges overlapping by 1/4 inch. Sew along the diagonal that connects the edges. Press it open. Continue joining them until you have the length you want.

Method 3: Using a Bias Tape Maker (Simplified Folding)

Once your strips are cut using either method, you might want to use a bias tape maker, especially for larger projects to simplify the folding process. These little tools save time and make for perfectly folded bias tape.

1. Cut Your Strips: Begin by cutting your bias strips to the desired width using one of the two methods described earlier. They should be twice the width of your desired finished bias tape, plus seam allowances.

2. Thread the Strip: Insert one end of a cut bias strip into the wider end of the bias tape maker. Gently push the fabric through.

3. Iron as you go: As the fabric emerges from the narrower end of the tool, iron the folds into place. The bias tape maker will fold the edges of the strip in toward the center. As you feed the bias strip through the tool, and the fabric emerges on the other side, immediately start ironing the strip to create the finished fold and crease.

4. Continue Feeding and Ironing: Continue pulling the strip through the maker, and continue to iron the folds. You will now have perfectly folded bias tape, ready to be applied to your sewing projects.

Tips for Success

• Pre-Wash Your Fabric: Always pre-wash and press your fabric before cutting bias binding to prevent shrinkage and ensure accurate cuts.
• Use a Sharp Rotary Cutter Blade: A sharp blade is crucial for clean, accurate cuts. Replace your blade regularly for optimal results.
• Cut with Confidence: Maintain a consistent and smooth cutting motion for clean lines. Do not start and stop mid-cut, try to do the whole cut in one motion for a straighter edge.
• Practice Makes Perfect: Like any sewing technique, making bias binding gets easier with practice. Don’t be discouraged if your first attempt isn’t perfect.
• Consider Fabric Choice: Lightweight fabrics are easier to work with than very thick or bulky materials.
• Take Care When Joining: When joining the strips, make sure the lines match up and are aligned correctly. A poor join can be very visible on a project.
• Use a Consistent Seam Allowance: Use a consistent seam allowance to make sure the joins are not lopsided.

Conclusion

Cutting your own bias binding might seem intimidating at first, but with a little practice and the right tools, it’s a skill that will significantly enhance your sewing projects. It offers unparalleled customization, control, and satisfaction, allowing you to achieve professional-looking finishes every time. Whether you choose the continuous method, the traditional method, or use a bias tape maker, mastering bias binding will take your sewing to the next level. So, gather your materials, and let’s get cutting!