From Dark to Dazzling: A Comprehensive Guide to Bleaching Dark Hair Platinum Blonde or White
Embarking on a journey from dark brown or black hair to platinum blonde or white is a significant transformation. It’s a process that requires patience, meticulous care, and a thorough understanding of the potential risks involved. Bleaching dark hair drastically alters its structure, and improper techniques can lead to severe damage, breakage, and even hair loss. This comprehensive guide will provide you with a detailed roadmap, outlining each step, necessary precautions, and crucial aftercare to minimize damage and achieve your desired platinum or white blonde look. Remember, consulting with a professional hairstylist is always recommended, especially for those with heavily processed or damaged hair. They can assess your hair’s health and provide personalized advice.
Understanding the Challenges
Before diving in, it’s crucial to understand why bleaching dark hair to platinum blonde or white is challenging:
* **Multiple Bleach Sessions:** Dark hair contains a high concentration of melanin, the pigment responsible for its color. Achieving a platinum or white blonde shade necessitates lifting multiple levels of pigment, which typically requires multiple bleaching sessions. Each session weakens the hair shaft.
* **Underlying Warm Tones:** As you bleach dark hair, it will inevitably pass through various warm tones – red, orange, and yellow. These tones must be neutralized to achieve a cool-toned platinum or white blonde. Toners are essential for this process.
* **Potential for Damage:** Bleach is a harsh chemical that can strip the hair of its natural oils and proteins, leading to dryness, brittleness, breakage, and split ends. Overlapping bleach on previously treated hair can cause severe damage.
* **Uneven Lifting:** Hair porosity (the hair’s ability to absorb moisture) can vary across the head. This can result in uneven lifting, with some areas reaching the desired lightness faster than others. Careful monitoring and precise application are crucial.
Essential Supplies
Gathering the right supplies is paramount for a successful and safer bleaching experience. Here’s a comprehensive list:
* **Bleach Powder (Lightener):** Choose a high-quality bleach powder specifically formulated for lifting dark hair. Options include Wella Blondor, Schwarzkopf Blond Me, or Redken Flash Lift. Research and read reviews to find a product suitable for your hair type.
* **Developer:** Developer comes in different volumes (10, 20, 30, and 40). The volume indicates the strength of the developer. For bleaching dark hair, a 20 or 30 volume developer is generally recommended. 40 volume is very strong and should only be used by experienced professionals as it can cause significant damage. Lower volumes are gentler but may require more sessions. Start with 20 volume for the first session and assess your hair’s reaction.
* **Toner:** Toner neutralizes unwanted warm tones (yellow, orange) and helps achieve the desired platinum or white blonde shade. Popular toners include Wella T18 (for pale blonde), Wella T14 (for ash blonde), and Redken Shades EQ. Choose a toner that complements your desired final color.
* **Purple Shampoo and Conditioner:** Purple shampoo and conditioner contain violet pigments that counteract yellow tones, helping to maintain the platinum or white blonde color and prevent brassiness. Use them regularly between bleaching sessions.
* **Deep Conditioner or Hair Mask:** Bleaching can leave hair dry and damaged. Invest in a high-quality deep conditioner or hair mask to replenish moisture and restore the hair’s elasticity. Look for products containing ingredients like keratin, argan oil, or shea butter.
* **Protein Treatment:** Protein treatments help strengthen and rebuild the hair’s protein structure, which is often damaged during bleaching. Use a protein treatment sparingly (once every few weeks) as overuse can lead to brittleness.
* **Mixing Bowl and Applicator Brush:** Use a non-metallic mixing bowl and an applicator brush specifically designed for hair dye. Metal bowls can react with the bleach and affect its effectiveness.
* **Gloves:** Protect your hands from the harsh chemicals by wearing gloves throughout the bleaching process. Nitrile gloves are a good option.
* **Hair Clips:** Sectioning your hair makes the application process easier and ensures even coverage. Use hair clips to keep the sections separate.
* **Old Towel or Cape:** Protect your clothing from bleach stains by wearing an old towel or a salon cape.
* **Petroleum Jelly or Barrier Cream:** Apply petroleum jelly or a barrier cream along your hairline and ears to prevent the bleach from irritating your skin.
* **Scale:** Use a scale to accurately measure the bleach powder and developer. This ensures consistent results.
* **Timer:** Keep track of the processing time to avoid over-processing the hair.
* **Heat Cap (Optional):** A heat cap can help speed up the bleaching process, but it’s crucial to monitor the hair closely to prevent damage.
* **Bond Builder (Highly Recommended):** Bond builders like Olaplex or Redken pH-Bonder help protect and repair the hair’s bonds during the bleaching process. They can significantly reduce damage and breakage. Add it to your bleach mixture according to the product instructions.
Preparation is Key
Proper preparation is crucial for minimizing damage and achieving the best possible results:
* **Assess Your Hair’s Health:** Before bleaching, evaluate the health of your hair. If your hair is already damaged, dry, or brittle, it’s best to postpone bleaching and focus on repairing it first. Consider using deep conditioning treatments and protein masks for several weeks before attempting to bleach.
* **Patch Test:** Perform a patch test 48 hours before bleaching to check for allergic reactions. Apply a small amount of the bleach mixture to a discreet area, such as behind your ear, and observe for any signs of irritation, redness, or itching.
* **Strand Test:** A strand test is essential to determine how your hair will react to the bleach and how long it will take to lift to the desired level. Select a small, inconspicuous section of hair (e.g., underneath layer at the nape of your neck) and apply the bleach mixture. Check the strand every 10-15 minutes to assess the lifting progress. This will give you a good indication of the processing time required for your entire head.
* **Don’t Wash Your Hair for 24-48 Hours:** Natural oils help protect your scalp from irritation, so avoid washing your hair for at least 24-48 hours before bleaching. Slightly dirty hair is actually better for the bleaching process.
* **Detangle Your Hair:** Gently detangle your hair to ensure even application of the bleach.
* **Protect Your Skin:** Apply petroleum jelly or a barrier cream along your hairline and ears to prevent the bleach from irritating your skin.
* **Prepare Your Workspace:** Set up your workspace in a well-ventilated area and protect your clothing and surrounding surfaces from bleach stains.
Step-by-Step Bleaching Process
Follow these detailed steps for a safe and effective bleaching process:
1. **Section Your Hair:** Divide your hair into four sections: two in the front and two in the back. Secure each section with hair clips.
2. **Mix the Bleach:** In a non-metallic mixing bowl, combine the bleach powder and developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The ratio of bleach powder to developer is typically 1:2 (one part bleach powder to two parts developer), but always refer to the product instructions. If using a bond builder, add it to the mixture at this stage.
3. **Apply the Bleach:** Start applying the bleach to the back sections of your hair, working your way up to the roots. Apply the bleach about 1/2 inch away from your scalp (the heat from your scalp will accelerate the lifting process). Ensure that each strand is thoroughly saturated with the bleach mixture. Work quickly and efficiently to ensure even coverage.
4. **Process the Hair:** Once you’ve applied the bleach to all the sections, go back and apply the bleach to the roots. This ensures that the roots lift at the same rate as the rest of your hair. Check the hair every 10-15 minutes to assess the lifting progress. Do not exceed the maximum processing time recommended by the manufacturer. The processing time will vary depending on the darkness of your hair and the desired level of lift. Usually, 20-50 minutes is recommended. Remember the strand test result and refer back to it to see how your hair is reacting.
5. **Rinse the Hair:** Once the hair has reached the desired level of lift (a pale yellow shade), rinse it thoroughly with cool water. Ensure that all traces of bleach are removed.
6. **Shampoo and Condition:** Shampoo your hair with a color-safe shampoo and follow with a deep conditioner or hair mask. Leave the conditioner on for at least 10-15 minutes to replenish moisture and restore the hair’s elasticity.
7. **Assess the Hair’s Condition:** After rinsing and conditioning, carefully assess the condition of your hair. If your hair feels dry, brittle, or damaged, consider postponing the next bleaching session and focusing on repairing your hair. A protein treatment is optional at this stage.
8. **Repeat if Necessary:** Reassess the hair and determine if another bleaching session is required to achieve your goal of platinum blonde. Wait at least two weeks, but preferably a month, before the next bleach session. Ensure that you are using strengthening hair masks, conditioners and oils in the meantime.
Toning Your Hair
After bleaching, your hair will likely have some yellow or orange tones. Toner is essential for neutralizing these tones and achieving a cool-toned platinum or white blonde shade. Here’s how to tone your hair:
1. **Choose the Right Toner:** Select a toner that complements your desired final color. Wella T18 is a popular choice for achieving a pale blonde shade, while Wella T14 is suitable for ash blonde. Consult with a professional hairstylist or research online to determine the best toner for your hair.
2. **Mix the Toner:** Mix the toner with the appropriate developer (usually a 10 or 20 volume developer) according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
3. **Apply the Toner:** Apply the toner to your hair, ensuring even coverage. Start at the roots and work your way down to the ends.
4. **Process the Toner:** Process the toner for the recommended time (usually 20-30 minutes). Monitor the hair closely to prevent over-toning, which can result in a grayish or ashy hue.
5. **Rinse the Toner:** Rinse the toner thoroughly with cool water.
6. **Condition the Hair:** Apply a deep conditioner or hair mask to replenish moisture and restore the hair’s elasticity.
Maintaining Your Platinum or White Blonde Hair
Maintaining platinum or white blonde hair requires ongoing care and attention. Here are some tips to keep your hair looking its best:
* **Use Purple Shampoo and Conditioner Regularly:** Purple shampoo and conditioner help neutralize yellow tones and prevent brassiness. Use them 1-2 times a week.
* **Deep Condition Regularly:** Bleached hair is prone to dryness and damage, so deep condition your hair at least once a week. Look for products containing moisturizing ingredients like argan oil, shea butter, or coconut oil.
* **Use a Heat Protectant:** Heat styling can further damage bleached hair. Always use a heat protectant spray before using heat styling tools like hair dryers, curling irons, or straighteners.
* **Avoid Over-Washing:** Washing your hair too frequently can strip it of its natural oils and lead to dryness. Try to wash your hair only 2-3 times a week.
* **Get Regular Trims:** Trimming your hair regularly helps remove split ends and prevent breakage.
* **Protect Your Hair from the Sun:** The sun can damage bleached hair and cause it to fade. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when spending time outdoors.
* **Consider a Silk or Satin Pillowcase:** Silk or satin pillowcases are gentler on the hair than cotton pillowcases, which can cause friction and breakage.
* **Minimize Heat Styling:** Limit your use of heat styling tools to prevent further damage. When you do use heat, use the lowest heat setting possible.
* **Hydrate Your Hair:** Use hydrating hair masks and leave-in conditioners to keep your hair moisturized.
* **Stay Hydrated:** Drink plenty of water to keep your hair hydrated from the inside out.
Dealing with Common Problems
* **Brassy Hair:** Use purple shampoo and conditioner regularly to neutralize yellow tones. If your hair is very brassy, you may need to use a stronger toner.
* **Dry Hair:** Deep condition your hair regularly and use a leave-in conditioner to keep it moisturized. Avoid over-washing and heat styling.
* **Damaged Hair:** Use protein treatments to help strengthen and rebuild the hair’s protein structure. Avoid bleaching your hair again until it has recovered.
* **Breakage:** Get regular trims to remove split ends and prevent breakage. Avoid using harsh chemicals or heat styling tools.
* **Uneven Color:** Consult with a professional hairstylist to correct uneven color. They may need to use different toners or bleaching techniques to even out the color.
Important Precautions
* **Never Bleach Damaged Hair:** If your hair is already damaged, postpone bleaching and focus on repairing it first.
* **Don’t Overlap Bleach:** Overlapping bleach on previously treated hair can cause severe damage.
* **Don’t Exceed the Maximum Processing Time:** Exceeding the maximum processing time recommended by the manufacturer can lead to severe damage.
* **Monitor Your Hair Closely:** Check your hair every 10-15 minutes to assess the lifting progress and prevent over-processing.
* **If in Doubt, Consult a Professional:** If you’re unsure about any part of the bleaching process, consult with a professional hairstylist.
When to Seek Professional Help
While DIY hair bleaching can be tempting, there are situations where seeking professional help is crucial:
* **Severely Damaged Hair:** If your hair is already significantly damaged, brittle, or prone to breakage, a professional stylist can assess its condition and recommend the best course of action to avoid further harm.
* **Uneven Color or Banding:** Correcting uneven color, banding, or previous botched dye jobs requires expertise to achieve a uniform and seamless result.
* **Scalp Sensitivity or Allergies:** Individuals with sensitive scalps or known allergies to hair dye ingredients should always consult a professional to ensure a safe and comfortable experience.
* **Uncertainty or Lack of Experience:** If you’re unsure about any aspect of the bleaching process or lack experience with DIY hair color, seeking professional guidance can prevent costly mistakes and potential damage.
* **Desire for a Complex or Drastic Transformation:** Achieving complex color transformations, such as going from very dark to platinum blonde, requires advanced techniques and precision. A professional stylist can execute the desired look while minimizing damage and ensuring optimal results.
Bleaching dark hair to platinum blonde or white is a challenging but achievable process. By following these detailed steps, taking necessary precautions, and providing your hair with proper aftercare, you can minimize damage and achieve your desired look. Remember, patience and consistency are key. If at any point you feel overwhelmed or unsure, don’t hesitate to seek professional help. A skilled hairstylist can guide you through the process and ensure that your hair remains healthy and beautiful.