Master the Hem: A Comprehensive Guide to Hemming Pants with Your Sewing Machine
Hemming pants is a fundamental sewing skill that can save you money and give you the satisfaction of perfectly fitted clothing. Whether you’ve bought a new pair of pants that are too long, or your favorite jeans have started to fray at the bottom, learning to hem pants with a sewing machine is a valuable asset. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the process step-by-step, covering everything from measuring and marking to sewing and finishing.
## Why Hemming Your Own Pants is Worth It
* **Save Money:** Tailoring costs can add up quickly. Hemming your own pants eliminates those expenses.
* **Perfect Fit:** You can customize the hem to your exact preferred length, ensuring a perfect fit with different shoes.
* **Extend the Life of Your Clothes:** Hemming can repair frayed hems, giving your pants a new lease on life.
* **Creative Control:** You can experiment with different hem styles and finishes to personalize your clothing.
* **A Rewarding Skill:** Mastering hemming is a gateway to more advanced sewing projects.
## What You’ll Need
Before you begin, gather the following supplies:
* **Pants:** The pants you want to hem.
* **Sewing Machine:** A reliable sewing machine in good working order.
* **Matching Thread:** Choose a thread color that closely matches the fabric of your pants. Consider using a slightly darker shade for jeans.
* **Measuring Tape:** Essential for accurate measurements.
* **Seam Ripper:** For removing existing hems or mistakes.
* **Fabric Scissors:** Sharp scissors specifically designed for cutting fabric.
* **Pins:** Straight pins to hold the hem in place.
* **Iron and Ironing Board:** For pressing the hem for a crisp, professional finish.
* **Ruler or Hem Gauge:** Helps maintain a consistent hem depth.
* **Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Marker:** For marking the hemline.
* **Seam Gauge:** A small ruler with a sliding marker, useful for measuring consistent seam allowances.
* **Optional: Hand Sewing Needle:** For reinforcing the hem by hand or doing a blind hem stitch.
## Step-by-Step Guide to Hemming Pants
### 1. Preparation: Washing and Ironing
* **Wash the Pants:** Always wash the pants before hemming. This will account for any shrinkage that may occur during washing, preventing the hem from becoming too short later.
* **Iron the Pants:** Iron the pants to remove any wrinkles. This will make it easier to measure and mark the hem accurately.
### 2. Determining the Desired Hem Length
This is arguably the most important step. Accurate measurements are crucial for a well-fitting hem.
* **Wear the Correct Shoes:** Put on the shoes you will typically wear with the pants. This will ensure that the hem is the correct length for your footwear.
* **Stand Up Straight:** Stand in front of a mirror with good posture.
* **Have Someone Help You (Recommended):** It’s much easier to have a friend or family member help you measure and mark the hem. If you’re doing it yourself, be extra careful.
* **Measure from the Crotch Seam to the Desired Length:** Use a measuring tape to measure the distance from the crotch seam (where the inseams meet) down to where you want the hem to fall. Consider these points:
* **Dress Pants:** The hem should typically fall about halfway down the back of the shoe, with a slight break in the front.
* **Jeans:** The hem length depends on your personal preference. Some people prefer jeans to just skim the top of their shoes, while others like them longer, with a slight stack (a small amount of fabric gathering above the shoe).
* **Casual Pants:** Aim for a length that covers about two-thirds of the shoe.
* **Mark the Desired Length:** Once you’ve determined the desired length, use tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker to make a clear mark on both legs of the pants. Make sure the marks are even and consistent. A good starting point is to measure from the floor, ensuring both sides are the same distance from the ground. Pin at the mark to hold it in place.
### 3. Adding the Hem Allowance
The hem allowance is the amount of fabric that will be folded up and sewn to create the hem. A standard hem allowance is usually 1-2 inches, but this can vary depending on the type of fabric and the desired hem finish. For jeans, a wider hem allowance (1.5-2 inches) is often used. For lighter fabrics like dress pants, a smaller hem allowance (1 inch) may be sufficient.
* **Measure and Mark the Hem Allowance:** From the mark you made in the previous step (the desired length), measure down the chosen hem allowance amount (e.g., 1.5 inches). Use tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker to make a second mark. This second mark indicates where you will cut the excess fabric.
* **Repeat on Both Legs:** Ensure you measure and mark the hem allowance on both legs of the pants.
### 4. Cutting the Excess Fabric
* **Lay the Pants Flat:** Place the pants on a flat surface, such as a cutting mat or a large table.
* **Cut Along the Hem Allowance Mark:** Carefully cut along the second mark you made (the hem allowance mark). Use sharp fabric scissors for a clean, even cut. Try to cut as straight as possible, following the existing hemline as a guide.
* **Double-Check:** Before proceeding, double-check that you have cut the excess fabric evenly on both legs.
### 5. Preparing the Hem for Sewing
This step involves folding and pressing the hem to create a clean, professional finish.
* **Fold Up the Hem Allowance:** Fold the raw edge of the fabric up to the first mark you made (the desired length mark). This creates the initial fold of the hem. Pin in place.
* **Press the Fold:** Use a hot iron to press the folded edge. This will create a sharp crease and help the hem stay in place while you sew. Ensure your iron setting is appropriate for the fabric type.
* **Fold Up the Hem Again:** Now, fold the pressed edge up again, encasing the raw edge of the fabric inside the hem. The folded edge should align with the original hemline (the desired length mark). This creates a double-fold hem, which is more durable and prevents fraying. Pin in place.
* **Press the Hem Again:** Press the folded hem again with a hot iron. This will create a crisp, clean hemline. Continue to ensure your iron setting is correct.
* **Optional: Trim Excess Fabric Within the Fold:** If the fabric within the double fold is bulky, you can carefully trim some of it away to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut too close to the edge of the fold, as this could cause the hem to unravel.
### 6. Sewing the Hem
Now it’s time to sew the hem using your sewing machine.
* **Set Up Your Sewing Machine:** Thread your sewing machine with matching thread and install a universal needle suitable for the fabric type.
* **Choose a Stitch:** A straight stitch is the most common choice for hemming pants. Adjust the stitch length to medium (around 2.5-3mm) for a strong, durable seam.
* **Position the Fabric:** Place the pants under the presser foot of your sewing machine, with the folded hem facing up. Position the needle close to the folded edge of the hem.
* **Backstitch to Secure:** Begin sewing by backstitching a few stitches to secure the seam. This prevents the seam from unraveling.
* **Sew Along the Hem:** Sew along the folded edge of the hem, keeping a consistent distance from the edge (about 1/8 to 1/4 inch). Use the edge of the presser foot as a guide to maintain a straight line. Sew slowly and carefully, removing the pins as you go. Be mindful of the thickness of the fabric, especially at the side seams, and adjust your sewing speed accordingly.
* **Backstitch Again to Secure:** When you reach the end of the hem, backstitch a few stitches to secure the seam.
* **Repeat on the Other Leg:** Repeat the sewing process on the other leg of the pants.
### 7. Finishing the Hem
This step involves tidying up the hem and ensuring a professional finish.
* **Trim Threads:** Use scissors to trim any loose threads hanging from the seams.
* **Press the Hem Again:** Press the sewn hem one last time to set the stitches and create a smooth, even finish. This is especially important for dress pants or tailored garments.
* **Inspect the Hem:** Carefully inspect the hem to ensure that there are no missed stitches or uneven areas. If you find any mistakes, use a seam ripper to remove the stitches and re-sew the area.
### Alternative Hemming Techniques:
While the above describes a standard machine hem, here are a few variations:
* **Blind Hem:** This creates an invisible hem, perfect for dress pants and skirts. It requires a blind hem foot on your sewing machine.
* **Rolled Hem:** This is a narrow hem often used on delicate fabrics. It can be done with a rolled hem foot or by hand.
* **Serged Hem:** If you have a serger, you can serge the raw edge of the fabric before folding it up to create a clean, finished edge.
* **Topstitch Hem:** Add a decorative topstitch along the hemline for a more casual look, common in jeans.
### Tips for Success
* **Practice on Scrap Fabric:** Before hemming your pants, practice sewing on a scrap of similar fabric to get a feel for the stitch and tension settings.
* **Use the Right Needle:** Choose a needle that is appropriate for the fabric type and weight. A universal needle is suitable for most fabrics, but you may need a denim needle for jeans or a ballpoint needle for knit fabrics.
* **Adjust Stitch Length and Tension:** Adjust the stitch length and tension on your sewing machine to achieve a balanced seam. If the stitches are too tight, the fabric may pucker. If the stitches are too loose, the seam may unravel.
* **Sew Slowly and Carefully:** Take your time and sew slowly and carefully, especially when working with thick or delicate fabrics.
* **Use a Seam Ripper:** Don’t be afraid to use a seam ripper to remove mistakes. It’s better to fix a mistake than to leave it and regret it later.
* **Press, Press, Press:** Pressing is key to a professional-looking hem. Press the hem after each step to create a crisp, clean finish.
* **Consider a Walking Foot:** If you are sewing multiple layers of thick fabric, such as denim, consider using a walking foot on your sewing machine. A walking foot helps to feed the fabric evenly and prevent it from slipping.
* **Stabilize the Hem:** For stretchy or delicate fabrics, consider using a fusible interfacing or seam tape to stabilize the hem and prevent it from stretching out of shape.
* **Always measure twice, cut once!** This old adage is especially true when hemming pants.
### Troubleshooting Common Hemming Problems
* **Puckering:** Puckering can occur if the stitch tension is too tight or if the fabric is not feeding evenly. Try loosening the stitch tension and using a walking foot.
* **Skipped Stitches:** Skipped stitches can occur if the needle is dull or damaged, or if the thread is not feeding properly. Try replacing the needle and rethreading the machine.
* **Uneven Hem:** An uneven hem can be caused by inaccurate measurements or by not sewing straight. Take your time and measure carefully, and use a seam guide to help you sew straight.
* **Bulky Seams:** Bulky seams can occur if the fabric is too thick or if there are too many layers of fabric. Try trimming the seam allowances to reduce bulk, or use a thinner fabric.
## Conclusion
Hemming pants with a sewing machine is a relatively simple skill that can save you money and give you the satisfaction of perfectly fitted clothing. By following these step-by-step instructions and tips, you can master the art of hemming and create professional-looking results. With practice, you’ll be able to hem pants quickly and easily, and you’ll never have to pay for tailoring again. Now grab your sewing machine and get started on your next hemming project!