How to Fix Orange Roots After Bleaching: A Comprehensive Guide

Bleaching your hair blonde at home can be a liberating experience, allowing you to express your style and achieve a brighter, bolder look. However, it can also be a tricky process, and one of the most common issues faced by DIY bleach enthusiasts is the dreaded orange roots. This brassy, unflattering hue is a result of underlying warm pigments being exposed during the bleaching process and is notoriously difficult to avoid. But don’t despair! With the right knowledge, products, and techniques, you can correct orange roots and achieve the beautiful blonde you’ve been dreaming of. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the causes of orange roots, preventative measures, and, most importantly, step-by-step instructions on how to fix them.

Understanding Why Orange Roots Happen

Before diving into the solutions, it’s crucial to understand why orange roots occur in the first place. Hair contains natural pigments called melanin, which come in two primary forms: eumelanin (responsible for brown and black tones) and pheomelanin (responsible for red and yellow tones). When you bleach your hair, the bleaching agent (typically hydrogen peroxide) oxidizes these pigments, breaking them down and lightening their color. However, different pigments are more resistant to oxidation. Eumelanin is generally easier to break down than pheomelanin. This means that as the bleach processes, the brown and black tones lighten more quickly, leaving behind the more stubborn red and orange undertones. Several factors contribute to the prominence of orange roots:

* **Starting Hair Color:** The darker your natural hair color, the more underlying warm pigments you have. If you have dark brown or black hair, you’re more likely to encounter orange roots than someone with naturally light brown or blonde hair.
* **Bleach Strength and Developer Volume:** Using a bleach that isn’t strong enough or a developer volume that’s too low may not lift enough pigment to reach the desired blonde shade, resulting in orange undertones. However, using too strong of a bleach or too high of a developer volume can also damage your hair.
* **Processing Time:** Not leaving the bleach on for the recommended processing time can prevent it from fully lifting the underlying pigments, leaving behind orange roots. Conversely, leaving the bleach on for too long can cause damage and breakage.
* **Uneven Application:** If the bleach is not applied evenly, some areas may lift more than others, leading to uneven color and noticeable orange roots.
* **Hair Porosity:** Hair porosity refers to its ability to absorb and retain moisture. Highly porous hair tends to absorb bleach quickly and may become damaged more easily. Low porosity hair, on the other hand, can be resistant to bleach and may require longer processing times.

Preventing Orange Roots: Key Strategies

Prevention is always better than cure. Here are some essential strategies to minimize the risk of developing orange roots when bleaching your hair:

* **Choose the Right Products:**
* **Bleach:** Opt for a high-quality bleach specifically formulated for lightening dark hair. Look for bleaches that contain blue or violet pigments, which can help neutralize orange tones during the bleaching process.
* **Developer:** Select the appropriate developer volume based on your starting hair color and desired level of lift. For dark hair, a 20 or 30 volume developer is generally recommended. Avoid using a 40 volume developer unless you’re experienced with bleaching, as it can cause significant damage.
* **Toner:** A toner is essential for neutralizing any remaining brassy tones after bleaching. Choose a toner with blue or violet pigments to counteract orange and yellow hues.
* **Purple Shampoo and Conditioner:** Incorporate purple shampoo and conditioner into your hair care routine to help maintain a cool blonde tone and prevent brassiness from returning.
* **Perform a Strand Test:** Before applying bleach to your entire head, perform a strand test to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach and developer. This will help you determine the appropriate processing time and developer volume to use.
* **Apply Bleach Evenly:** Use a tint brush and a mirror to ensure that the bleach is applied evenly to all sections of your hair, starting with the roots. Work quickly and systematically to avoid uneven lifting.
* **Monitor Processing Time:** Keep a close eye on the processing time and check your hair frequently to see how it’s lifting. Don’t exceed the recommended processing time, and rinse the bleach out as soon as you achieve the desired level of lift.
* **Consider Professional Help:** If you’re unsure about bleaching your hair at home, it’s always best to consult a professional hairstylist. They can assess your hair type and condition, recommend the appropriate products and techniques, and ensure that you achieve the desired results without damaging your hair.

Correcting Orange Roots: A Step-by-Step Guide

If you’ve already bleached your hair and are now dealing with orange roots, don’t worry! Here’s a detailed guide on how to fix them:

**Step 1: Assess the Damage and Determine the Cause**

Before taking any action, carefully assess the condition of your hair. Is it dry, brittle, or damaged? Also, try to determine the likely cause of the orange roots. Was the bleach not strong enough? Was the processing time too short? Did you apply the bleach unevenly? Understanding the cause will help you choose the most effective solution.

**Step 2: Deep Condition Your Hair**

Bleaching can be incredibly drying and damaging to the hair. Before attempting to correct the orange roots, it’s crucial to replenish moisture and strengthen your strands. Apply a deep conditioning treatment to your hair and leave it on for at least 30 minutes, or even overnight for a more intensive treatment. This will help protect your hair from further damage during the correction process.

**Step 3: Choose Your Correction Method**

There are several methods you can use to correct orange roots, depending on the severity of the issue and the condition of your hair. Here are some of the most common options:

* **Toning:** Toning is the most common and often the most effective way to neutralize orange tones. Toners contain pigments that counteract unwanted brassiness, leaving you with a cooler, more neutral blonde.
* **Purple Shampoo and Conditioner:** For mild orange tones, regular use of purple shampoo and conditioner can help gradually neutralize the brassiness and maintain a cooler blonde.
* **Bleach Wash (Soap Cap):** A bleach wash is a diluted bleach mixture that is applied to the hair for a short period of time. This can help lift any remaining orange pigment without causing as much damage as a full bleach application. **Use with extreme caution and only if hair is in good condition. This is a last resort method.**
* **Color Correction with a Demi-Permanent Color:** Using a demi-permanent hair color that is slightly darker than your target shade with cool undertones can help to deposit pigment and neutralize the orange. This is a good option if toning alone is not sufficient.

**Step 4: Toning Your Hair (Most Common Method)**

Toning is the most frequently chosen solution. Here’s how to tone your hair to correct orange roots:

1. **Choose the Right Toner:** Select a toner that is specifically designed to neutralize orange tones. Look for toners with blue or violet pigments. Popular choices include toners in the silver, ash, or pearl families. Read reviews and consider consulting with a hairstylist to determine the best toner for your hair color.
2. **Prepare Your Toner Mixture:** Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix your toner with the appropriate developer volume. A 10 or 20 volume developer is typically recommended for toning.
3. **Apply the Toner to Your Roots:** Using a tint brush, carefully apply the toner to your orange roots, ensuring that they are fully saturated. Avoid applying the toner to the already blonde parts of your hair, as this can result in over-toning and unwanted discoloration. Applying to the rest of the hair may be needed if the rest of the hair is too yellow or warm. However, focus on the roots.
4. **Process the Toner:** Allow the toner to process for the recommended time, usually around 20-30 minutes. Keep a close eye on your hair during the processing time and check it frequently to see how it’s toning. If your hair is toning too quickly, rinse the toner out sooner.
5. **Rinse and Condition:** Once the toner has processed, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water. Follow up with a moisturizing conditioner to replenish any lost moisture.

**Step 5: Using Purple Shampoo and Conditioner (For Mild Cases and Maintenance)**

Purple shampoo and conditioner contain violet pigments that help neutralize yellow and orange tones in blonde hair. Here’s how to use them:

1. **Apply Purple Shampoo:** Wet your hair thoroughly and apply purple shampoo, focusing on the orange roots. Massage the shampoo into your hair and scalp for 2-3 minutes.
2. **Rinse and Apply Purple Conditioner:** Rinse the shampoo out and apply purple conditioner to your hair, focusing on the ends. Leave the conditioner on for 5-10 minutes.
3. **Rinse and Style:** Rinse the conditioner out and style your hair as usual. Use purple shampoo and conditioner regularly, typically once or twice a week, to maintain a cool blonde tone and prevent brassiness from returning.

**Step 6: Performing a Bleach Wash (Soap Cap) (Use with Extreme Caution!)**

A bleach wash, also known as a soap cap, is a diluted bleach mixture that can be used to gently lift any remaining orange pigment. **This method is only recommended for hair that is in good condition and should be used with extreme caution, as it can cause significant damage.**

1. **Mix Your Bleach Wash:** In a plastic bowl, mix equal parts bleach powder, developer (10 or 20 volume), and shampoo. The shampoo helps to dilute the bleach and make it less harsh.
2. **Apply to Orange Roots:** Apply the bleach wash to your orange roots, ensuring that they are fully saturated. Work quickly and evenly to avoid uneven lifting.
3. **Monitor Closely:** *Extremely important step.* Monitor your hair closely throughout the process. This should not take longer than 5-15 minutes, depending on how well your hair lifts. The point is to lift some of the orange without causing too much more damage. This is a very delicate balancing act.
4. **Rinse and Condition:** Once the orange tones have lifted, rinse the bleach wash out immediately with cool water. Follow up with a deep conditioning treatment to replenish moisture and repair damage.

**Step 7: Color Correction with a Demi-Permanent Color**

If toning alone is not enough to correct the orange roots, you can try using a demi-permanent hair color. This is a good option if you want to add depth and dimension to your hair while neutralizing the orange tones.

1. **Choose the Right Demi-Permanent Color:** Select a demi-permanent hair color that is slightly darker than your target shade and has cool undertones, such as ash or violet. The color should be no more than one or two levels darker than your existing blonde to avoid creating a noticeable line of demarcation.
2. **Mix Your Color:** Mix the demi-permanent color with the appropriate developer volume, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
3. **Apply to Orange Roots:** Apply the color to your orange roots, ensuring that they are fully saturated. Use a tint brush to apply the color evenly and avoid overlapping onto the already blonde sections of your hair.
4. **Process the Color:** Allow the color to process for the recommended time, usually around 20-30 minutes.
5. **Rinse and Condition:** Once the color has processed, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water. Follow up with a moisturizing conditioner to replenish any lost moisture.

**Step 8: Maintain Your Color and Prevent Future Brassiness**

Once you’ve corrected your orange roots, it’s important to maintain your color and prevent brassiness from returning. Here are some tips:

* **Use Purple Shampoo and Conditioner Regularly:** Incorporate purple shampoo and conditioner into your hair care routine to help neutralize yellow and orange tones and maintain a cool blonde tone.
* **Use a Heat Protectant:** Heat styling can damage your hair and contribute to brassiness. Always use a heat protectant spray before using heat styling tools.
* **Avoid Over-Washing:** Washing your hair too frequently can strip it of its natural oils and cause it to become dry and brittle. Try to wash your hair only 2-3 times a week.
* **Use a Deep Conditioning Treatment Regularly:** Deep conditioning treatments help replenish moisture and strengthen your hair, preventing damage and brassiness.
* **Get Regular Trims:** Regular trims help remove split ends and prevent breakage, keeping your hair healthy and strong.
* **Protect Your Hair from the Sun:** Sun exposure can fade your hair color and contribute to brassiness. Wear a hat or use a UV protectant spray when spending time outdoors.

Important Considerations and Warnings

* **Hair Condition:** Always prioritize the health of your hair. If your hair is already severely damaged, it’s best to consult with a professional hairstylist before attempting any further bleaching or coloring.
* **Allergy Test:** Perform an allergy test before using any new hair products, especially bleach and toner. Apply a small amount of the product to your skin and wait 24-48 hours to see if any irritation occurs.
* **Proper Ventilation:** When working with bleach and toner, always ensure that you have proper ventilation to avoid inhaling harmful fumes.
* **Protective Gear:** Wear gloves to protect your hands from chemicals.
* **Read Instructions Carefully:** Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for all hair products.
* **Don’t Overlap:** Avoid overlapping bleach or toner onto previously treated hair, as this can cause damage and breakage.
* **When in Doubt, Seek Professional Help:** If you’re unsure about any aspect of the bleaching or toning process, it’s always best to consult with a professional hairstylist.

Conclusion

Correcting orange roots after bleaching can seem daunting, but with the right knowledge, products, and techniques, you can achieve the beautiful blonde you’ve been dreaming of. Remember to prioritize the health of your hair, take preventative measures, and proceed with caution. And if you’re ever in doubt, don’t hesitate to seek professional help. By following these steps, you can say goodbye to orange roots and hello to gorgeous, radiant blonde hair!