Hemming Magic: A Step-by-Step Guide to Shortening Your Dress Like a Pro
Is your favorite dress a little too long? Don’t despair! Shortening a dress is a surprisingly simple DIY project that can breathe new life into your wardrobe. Whether you want to update a vintage find, adjust a store-bought dress for a better fit, or simply give an old garment a modern twist, this comprehensive guide will walk you through the process of hemming a dress with confidence. We’ll cover everything from essential tools to different hemming techniques, ensuring a professional-looking result. Let’s get started!
## Why Shorten a Dress?
There are numerous reasons why you might want to shorten a dress. Here are a few common scenarios:
* **Fit and Proportion:** A dress that’s too long can make you appear shorter and wider than you are. Shortening it can instantly improve your silhouette and create a more balanced look.
* **Style Update:** Hemlines go in and out of fashion. Shortening a dress can bring it up to date with current trends.
* **Damage Control:** A torn or stained hem can be easily remedied by shortening the dress to eliminate the damaged area.
* **Personal Preference:** Ultimately, the best reason to shorten a dress is because you want to! Maybe you simply prefer a shorter length, or perhaps you want to show off your legs.
## Before You Begin: Considerations and Preparations
Before you grab your scissors and start cutting, take a moment to consider these important factors:
### 1. Fabric Type:
The type of fabric your dress is made of will influence the best hemming technique to use. Here are some common fabric types and considerations:
* **Cotton:** Cotton is generally easy to work with and can be hemmed using a variety of methods.
* **Linen:** Linen frays easily, so it’s important to finish the raw edge of the hem to prevent unraveling.
* **Silk:** Silk is delicate and requires careful handling. A rolled hem or a serged edge is often recommended.
* **Polyester:** Polyester is relatively durable and easy to care for. A simple machine-stitched hem usually works well.
* **Knit Fabrics (Jersey, etc.):** Knit fabrics stretch, so you’ll need to use a stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch to prevent the hem from puckering.
* **Rayon/Viscose:** Rayon can shrink, so pre-washing the fabric is recommended before hemming. It also tends to wrinkle, so pressing is crucial.
* **Wool:** Wool can be prone to unraveling, so a serged edge or bias tape binding is a good idea.
### 2. Dress Style:
The style of your dress will also affect your hemming approach. Consider the following:
* **Straight Dresses:** These are the easiest to hem, as the hemline is typically straight and even.
* **A-Line Dresses:** A-line dresses widen towards the hem, so you may need to adjust the hemline slightly to maintain a smooth curve.
* **Circular or Flared Dresses:** These dresses require more advanced hemming techniques, as the hemline is curved and can be prone to stretching. A rolled hem or a facing is often used.
* **Dresses with Lining:** If your dress has a lining, you’ll need to hem the lining separately, making sure it’s slightly shorter than the outer layer.
* **Dresses with Slits:** Shortening a dress with a slit requires careful attention to ensure the slit remains in the correct position and proportion.
### 3. Desired Length:
Determine the desired length of your dress before you start cutting. Try on the dress with the shoes you plan to wear with it, and have a friend help you mark the new hemline with pins. It’s always better to err on the side of caution and leave a little extra length, as you can always shorten it further if needed.
### 4. Hem Allowance:
Remember to add a hem allowance to your desired length. This is the extra fabric that will be folded up to create the hem. A common hem allowance is 1-2 inches, but you may need more or less depending on the fabric and the hemming technique you choose.
### 5. Pre-Washing:
If your dress is made of a fabric that is prone to shrinking (such as cotton or rayon), it’s essential to pre-wash it before hemming. This will prevent the hem from shrinking up after you’ve finished sewing.
## Essential Tools and Materials
To shorten a dress successfully, you’ll need the following tools and materials:
* **Dress:** The dress you want to shorten!
* **Seam Ripper:** For removing the existing hem (if any).
* **Measuring Tape:** For accurate measurements.
* **Pins:** To hold the hem in place while you sew.
* **Fabric Scissors:** Sharp scissors designed for cutting fabric.
* **Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Marker:** For marking the new hemline.
* **Iron and Ironing Board:** For pressing the hem.
* **Sewing Machine (Optional):** For a faster and more professional finish. You can also hand-sew the hem if you prefer.
* **Thread:** Matching the color of your dress fabric.
* **Hand-Sewing Needle:** For hand-sewing the hem (if you’re not using a sewing machine).
* **Ruler or Hem Gauge:** For measuring and marking the hem allowance.
* **Seam Gauge:** A small ruler with a sliding marker used to measure consistent seam allowances or hem depths.
* **Serger (Optional):** For finishing the raw edge of the fabric to prevent fraying.
## Step-by-Step Guide to Shortening Your Dress
Now that you’ve gathered your supplies and prepared your dress, it’s time to start hemming! Here’s a step-by-step guide to follow:
### Step 1: Remove the Existing Hem (if any)
If your dress already has a hem, use a seam ripper to carefully remove it. Gently slide the seam ripper under the stitches and cut them. Be careful not to snag the fabric.
*Tip: A good seam ripper is essential. Dull ones can cause more damage than good.*
### Step 2: Try On the Dress and Determine the Desired Length
Put on the dress with the shoes you plan to wear with it. Stand in front of a mirror and have a friend help you mark the new hemline. Use pins or tailor’s chalk to mark the desired length all the way around the dress. Make sure the hemline is even and consistent. Double-check the length from multiple angles.
*Tip: Walk around and sit down while wearing the dress to ensure the length is comfortable and appropriate.*
### Step 3: Measure and Mark the Hem Allowance
Using a measuring tape, measure the desired hem allowance from the marked hemline. Mark this line all the way around the dress using tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker. A common hem allowance is 1-2 inches, but you can adjust it depending on the fabric and the hemming technique you choose. For example, if you want a 1-inch hem, measure 1 inch below the marked hemline and mark a new line.
*Tip: Use a ruler or hem gauge to ensure consistent measurements.*
### Step 4: Cut the Excess Fabric
Carefully cut along the hem allowance line using fabric scissors. Make sure to cut straight and evenly. If you’re working with a delicate fabric, you may want to use a rotary cutter and a cutting mat for more precise cuts.
*Tip: Cutting on a flat, stable surface is crucial for an even hem.*
### Step 5: Finish the Raw Edge (Prevent Fraying)
To prevent the raw edge of the fabric from fraying, you’ll need to finish it using one of the following methods:
* **Serging:** A serger is a specialized sewing machine that overlocks the edge of the fabric, creating a clean and durable finish. This is a great option for fabrics that fray easily.
* **Zigzag Stitch:** If you don’t have a serger, you can use a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine to finish the edge. Simply sew a zigzag stitch along the raw edge of the fabric.
* **Bias Tape:** Bias tape is a strip of fabric that is folded and pressed to create a clean edge. You can use bias tape to bind the raw edge of the fabric, creating a professional-looking finish. Choose a color that complements or matches your dress fabric.
* **Turning and Stitching:** For lighter fabrics, you can turn the raw edge under twice and stitch it in place. This creates a narrow, clean hem.
* **Pinking Shears:** Pinking shears create a zigzag edge that helps to prevent fraying. This is a quick and easy option, but it’s not as durable as other methods. Pinking Shears are not recommended for fabrics that fray easily.
*Tip: Always test your chosen method on a scrap of fabric before applying it to your dress.*
### Step 6: Press the Hem
Fold the fabric up along the marked hemline, wrong side to wrong side. Press the fold with an iron to create a crisp crease. Then, fold the hem up again, encasing the raw edge within the fold. Press the hem again to secure it in place. Pressing is a crucial step for achieving a professional-looking hem.
*Tip: Use a pressing cloth to protect delicate fabrics from scorching.*
### Step 7: Pin the Hem in Place
Use pins to hold the hem in place while you sew. Place the pins perpendicular to the edge of the hem, about every 2-3 inches. Make sure the pins are securely holding the fabric in place.
*Tip: Use fine pins to avoid leaving large holes in delicate fabrics.*
### Step 8: Sew the Hem
You can sew the hem by hand or with a sewing machine. Choose the method that you’re most comfortable with.
* **Hand-Sewing:** Use a blind stitch or a slip stitch to create an invisible hem. These stitches are designed to be hidden within the folds of the fabric.
* **Machine-Sewing:** Use a straight stitch or a blind hem stitch on your sewing machine to sew the hem. If you’re using a straight stitch, sew close to the folded edge of the hem. A blind hem stitch is designed to create an invisible hem, but it requires a special presser foot.
*Tip: Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam to secure the stitches.*
### Step 9: Remove the Pins and Press the Hem Again
Once you’ve finished sewing the hem, remove the pins and press the hem again to flatten it and create a clean finish. Use a pressing cloth to protect the fabric from scorching.
*Tip: A final press can make a huge difference in the overall appearance of your hem.*
## Hemming Techniques for Different Dress Styles
While the basic steps for shortening a dress are the same, there are some specific techniques that are better suited for certain dress styles:
### Straight Dresses:
* **Simple Turned Hem:** This is the easiest hemming technique for straight dresses. Simply turn the raw edge under twice and stitch it in place.
* **Blind Hem:** A blind hem is a great option for creating an invisible hem on a straight dress. You can sew a blind hem by hand or with a sewing machine.
### A-Line Dresses:
* **Slightly Curved Hem:** A-line dresses widen towards the hem, so you may need to adjust the hemline slightly to maintain a smooth curve. Use a flexible ruler or a French curve to draw a curved hemline before cutting the fabric.
* **Easing the Hem:** To prevent puckering, you may need to ease the hem by slightly stretching the fabric as you sew. This will help to distribute the fullness evenly.
### Circular or Flared Dresses:
* **Rolled Hem:** A rolled hem is a great option for circular or flared dresses, as it creates a narrow, clean finish that won’t add bulk. You can sew a rolled hem by hand or with a rolled hem foot on your sewing machine.
* **Facing:** A facing is a strip of fabric that is sewn to the edge of the hem and then turned to the inside. This creates a clean, finished edge that can help to stabilize the hemline of a circular or flared dress.
* **Hanging the Dress:** Before hemming a circular or bias-cut dress, hang it for 24-48 hours. The bias cut allows the fabric to drop, and hanging allows the dress to settle to its natural hemline. Once it has settled, you can mark and hem the dress.
### Dresses with Lining:
* **Hem Lining Separately:** Hem the lining separately from the outer layer of the dress. The lining should be slightly shorter than the outer layer to prevent it from peeking out.
* **Attach Lining at Hem:** After hemming both layers, you can attach the lining to the outer layer at the hem using a few hand stitches. This will help to keep the lining in place.
### Dresses with Slits:
* **Reinforce the Slit:** Before shortening a dress with a slit, reinforce the top of the slit with a few hand stitches or a small patch of fabric. This will prevent the slit from tearing.
* **Maintain Slit Proportion:** When shortening the dress, make sure to maintain the original proportion of the slit. If you shorten the dress too much, the slit may become too short or too long.
* **Consider a Mitered Corner:** At the top of the slit, consider creating a mitered corner for a clean, professional finish. This involves folding and stitching the fabric at a 45-degree angle.
## Common Hemming Mistakes to Avoid
* **Cutting the Fabric Too Short:** It’s always better to err on the side of caution and leave a little extra length, as you can always shorten it further if needed.
* **Uneven Hemline:** Make sure the hemline is even and consistent all the way around the dress. Use a measuring tape and a level to ensure accuracy.
* **Puckered Hem:** A puckered hem can be caused by using the wrong stitch, stretching the fabric, or not pressing the hem properly. Adjust your sewing machine settings, ease the hem as you sew, and press the hem thoroughly.
* **Visible Stitches:** If you want an invisible hem, use a blind stitch or a slip stitch. Choose thread that matches the color of your dress fabric.
* **Skipping the Pressing:** Pressing is a crucial step for achieving a professional-looking hem. Don’t skip it!
* **Not Finishing the Raw Edge:** Failing to finish the raw edge of the fabric will lead to fraying and an unprofessional-looking hem. Use a serger, a zigzag stitch, or bias tape to finish the edge.
## Tips for Success
* **Practice on Scrap Fabric:** Before hemming your dress, practice your chosen hemming technique on a scrap of fabric. This will help you to get a feel for the fabric and the stitch settings on your sewing machine.
* **Use Sharp Scissors:** Sharp scissors are essential for cutting fabric cleanly and accurately. Dull scissors can snag the fabric and create a jagged edge.
* **Take Your Time:** Shortening a dress is not a race. Take your time and be patient. The more careful you are, the better the results will be.
* **Don’t Be Afraid to Ask for Help:** If you’re unsure about any step of the process, don’t be afraid to ask a friend or a professional for help.
* **Invest in Quality Tools:** Quality tools can make a big difference in the ease and success of your hemming project. Invest in a good seam ripper, measuring tape, pins, and scissors.
* **Press, Press, Press!** We can’t stress this enough. Pressing is key to a professional finish.
* **Consider a Professional:** If you are working with very delicate or expensive fabric, or if you are uncomfortable with any of the steps, consider taking your dress to a professional tailor.
## Conclusion
Shortening a dress is a simple and rewarding DIY project that can transform your wardrobe. By following these steps and tips, you can confidently hem your dresses like a pro. So, grab your supplies, choose your technique, and get ready to give your dresses a new lease on life! Happy hemming!