Elevate Your Sewing: A Comprehensive Guide to Lining a Skirt
Lining a skirt is a fantastic way to enhance its quality, comfort, and durability. A lining adds a professional finish, prevents sheerness, reduces wrinkling, and allows the skirt to drape beautifully. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the process step-by-step, covering everything from choosing the right fabric to attaching the lining seamlessly.
## Why Line a Skirt?
Before we dive into the how-to, let’s consider the benefits of adding a lining:
* **Opacity:** Prevents sheer fabrics from being see-through.
* **Comfort:** Creates a smooth layer against the skin, especially important for fabrics that might be itchy or scratchy.
* **Durability:** Protects the outer fabric from wear and tear, extending the life of your skirt.
* **Drape:** Helps the skirt hang and move gracefully.
* **Reduces Wrinkling:** The lining can act as a barrier, preventing the outer fabric from wrinkling as easily.
* **Professional Finish:** Gives your skirt a polished, high-quality appearance.
* **Warmth:** Adds a thin layer of insulation for cooler weather.
## Choosing the Right Lining Fabric
The key to a successful lined skirt is selecting the appropriate lining fabric. Consider the following factors:
* **Fiber Content:** Common lining fabrics include:
* **Acetate:** A smooth, wrinkle-resistant option with a nice drape. Relatively inexpensive.
* **Rayon (Viscose):** Soft, breathable, and drapes well. Can be prone to wrinkling.
* **Polyester:** Durable, wrinkle-resistant, and affordable. Can sometimes feel less breathable.
* **Silk:** Luxurious, breathable, and drapes beautifully. More expensive and requires delicate care.
* **Cotton:** Breathable and comfortable, but can wrinkle easily. Choose a lightweight cotton like voile or lawn.
* **Bemberg (Cupro):** Considered a high-end lining, breathable, drapes beautifully, and is anti-static.
* **Weight:** Choose a lining fabric that is lighter or the same weight as your outer fabric. A heavier lining can distort the drape of the skirt.
* **Color:** Opt for a lining that is the same color as your outer fabric, a coordinating color, or a neutral color like nude or black. A contrasting color can create an interesting effect, but be mindful of potential show-through.
* **Care Requirements:** The lining should have similar care requirements to the outer fabric. If the outer fabric is machine washable, the lining should be too.
* **Stretch:** If your outer fabric has stretch, choose a lining with similar stretch properties to maintain the garment’s fit and comfort. Knit linings are available in various weights and fibers.
* **Special Considerations:** For skirts made from delicate fabrics like lace or chiffon, choose a very lightweight and smooth lining to avoid snagging. For wool skirts, consider a lining with anti-static properties.
## Materials You’ll Need
* **Skirt Fabric:** The fabric you’re using to make your skirt.
* **Lining Fabric:** As chosen above.
* **Skirt Pattern:** Your skirt pattern pieces.
* **Matching Thread:** For both the skirt fabric and the lining fabric.
* **Sewing Machine:** With a standard presser foot.
* **Scissors or Rotary Cutter:** For cutting fabric.
* **Pins:** To hold fabric pieces together.
* **Measuring Tape or Ruler:** For accurate measurements.
* **Iron and Ironing Board:** For pressing seams.
* **Seam Ripper:** Just in case!
* **Invisible Zipper (Optional):** If your skirt requires a zipper closure.
* **Hook and Eye Closure (Optional):** For the waistband.
* **Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Marker:** For marking fabric.
## Step-by-Step Guide to Lining a Skirt
This guide assumes you already have a skirt pattern and have cut out your skirt fabric pieces. If not, follow the pattern instructions to cut out your skirt pieces before proceeding.
**1. Prepare the Lining Fabric:**
* **Wash and Dry:** Pre-wash and dry your lining fabric according to the manufacturer’s instructions to prevent shrinkage after the skirt is sewn.
* **Iron:** Iron the lining fabric to remove any wrinkles.
**2. Cut Out the Lining Pieces:**
* **Use the Same Pattern Pieces:** Use the same pattern pieces that you used to cut out your skirt fabric to cut out the lining pieces. In most cases, you’ll cut the lining exactly the same size as the skirt fabric.
* **Exceptions:**
* **Facings:** If your skirt pattern includes a facing (for the waistband or hem), you usually don’t need to cut a lining piece for the facing. The facing will provide a clean finish to the inside of the skirt in those areas.
* **Ease:** You might want to add a little ease to the lining, especially if the outer fabric is fitted. Adding 1/4 to 1/2 inch to the side seams of the lining will allow it to move more freely and prevent it from pulling on the outer fabric. Distribute this ease evenly between the front and back lining pieces.
* **Hem Allowance:** Consider whether you want the lining to be shorter than the skirt. If so, subtract the desired amount from the lining pattern piece before cutting. A common practice is to make the lining 1-2 inches shorter than the skirt to prevent it from peeking out.
**3. Construct the Lining:**
* **Follow the Skirt Construction Steps:** Follow the same construction steps as you did for the skirt fabric, but only for the main seams (side seams, center back seam if applicable). Do not attach the waistband or hem the lining yet.
* **Sew Seams:** Sew the lining pieces together, using the same seam allowance as you used for the skirt fabric. Use a sewing machine with a straight stitch.
* **Press Seams:** Press all seams open or to one side, as you did for the skirt fabric. Pressing is crucial for a professional-looking finish.
**4. Attach the Lining to the Skirt (Waistband):**
There are several ways to attach the lining to the skirt at the waistband. Here are three common methods:
* **Method 1: Attaching the Lining to the Waistband Facing:**
* **Construct the Skirt:** Fully construct the skirt, including attaching the waistband facing.
* **Attach Lining to Facing:** With the skirt right side out and the lining wrong side out, slip the lining over the skirt. The right side of the lining should be facing the wrong side of the skirt.
* **Align Waistlines:** Align the top edge of the lining with the bottom edge of the waistband facing (the edge that will be stitched to the skirt).
* **Pin in Place:** Pin the lining to the waistband facing, matching side seams and center back seams (if applicable).
* **Stitch in the Ditch:** “Stitch in the ditch” along the seam line where the waistband facing is attached to the skirt. This will catch the lining and secure it to the waistband facing without any visible stitching on the right side of the skirt.
* **Alternative Stitching:** If you can’t stitch in the ditch neatly, you can hand-stitch the lining to the waistband facing using a slip stitch for an invisible finish.
* **Method 2: Attaching the Lining to the Waistband Before Attaching the Facing:**
* **Baste Lining to Skirt (Waist):** With the wrong side of the skirt and the right side of the lining facing each other, align the top edges (waistlines) of the skirt and lining. Baste them together along the waistline using a long basting stitch. This will hold them in place while you attach the waistband.
* **Attach Waistband:** Attach the waistband to the skirt and lining as one unit, following the pattern instructions.
* **Attach Waistband Facing:** Attach the waistband facing as per the pattern instructions. The lining will be enclosed between the waistband and the waistband facing.
* **Understitch:** Understitch the waistband facing to the seam allowance, catching the lining. This will help the facing roll to the inside and prevent it from peeking out.
* **Method 3: Separate Waistbands (No Facing):**
* **Create Separate Waistbands:** Cut out two waistbands: one for the skirt fabric and one for the lining fabric. The lining waistband should be slightly narrower (about 1/4 inch) than the skirt waistband.
* **Attach Waistbands:** Attach the skirt waistband to the skirt fabric and the lining waistband to the lining fabric, right sides together. Press the seam allowances upwards.
* **Join Waistbands:** Turn the skirt waistband to the inside, encasing the lining waistband. Pin in place, ensuring the skirt waistband extends slightly beyond the lining waistband.
* **Topstitch or Hand-Stitch:** Topstitch along the top edge of the skirt waistband to secure it in place, or hand-stitch the lining waistband to the inside of the skirt waistband using a slip stitch for an invisible finish.
**5. Insert Zipper (If Applicable):**
* **Follow Pattern Instructions:** If your skirt has a zipper closure, follow the pattern instructions to insert the zipper. Make sure to catch both the skirt fabric and the lining fabric in the zipper installation.
* **Hand-Basting:** Hand-basting the zipper in place before machine stitching can help ensure accurate placement and prevent puckering.
* **Invisible Zipper:** An invisible zipper provides a clean and professional finish. Special invisible zipper feet are available for sewing machines to make the installation easier.
**6. Finish the Hem:**
* **Hem the Skirt Fabric:** Hem the skirt fabric according to the pattern instructions. Common hemming techniques include:
* **Double Fold Hem:** Fold the hem allowance up twice and stitch in place.
* **Blind Hem:** Use a blind hem stitch on your sewing machine or hand-stitch a blind hem for an invisible finish.
* **Serged Edge:** Serge the raw edge of the hem allowance before folding it up and stitching.
* **Hem the Lining:** There are a few options for hemming the lining:
* **Shorter Lining:** If you cut the lining shorter than the skirt, simply turn up the raw edge of the lining and stitch in place. A serged edge is recommended for preventing fraying.
* **Same Length Lining:** If the lining is the same length as the skirt, you can either hem it separately using a similar method to the skirt hem, or you can attach it to the skirt hem.
* **Attaching Lining to Skirt Hem:** Fold up the hem allowance of both the skirt fabric and the lining fabric together and stitch in place. This creates a single hem for both layers. This method is best suited for lighter weight fabrics.
**7. Final Pressing:**
* **Press the Entire Skirt:** Give the entire skirt a final pressing, paying attention to the seams and hem. Use the appropriate heat setting for your fabric.
* **Use a Press Cloth:** When pressing delicate fabrics, use a press cloth to protect the fabric from scorching.
## Tips for a Professional Finish
* **Accurate Cutting:** Accurate cutting is essential for a well-fitting and well-draped skirt. Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter and take your time.
* **Precise Seams:** Sew seams with a consistent seam allowance. Use a seam gauge to ensure accuracy.
* **Proper Pressing:** Pressing each seam as you go is crucial for a professional-looking finish. Don’t skip this step!
* **Understitching:** Understitching the facing to the seam allowance helps it roll to the inside and prevents it from peeking out.
* **Hand-Basting:** Hand-basting zippers or tricky areas can help ensure accurate placement and prevent puckering.
* **Invisible Stitches:** Use invisible stitches for hems or attaching the lining to the facing for a clean and professional finish.
* **Thread Color:** Use matching thread for both the skirt fabric and the lining fabric. If you can’t find an exact match, choose a thread that is slightly darker than the fabric.
* **Clean Finish:** Trim threads and remove any stray pins for a clean and polished look.
## Troubleshooting
* **Lining Too Tight:** If the lining feels too tight, you may need to add some ease to the lining pattern pieces. Unpick the side seams of the lining and add 1/4 to 1/2 inch to each side seam, tapering to nothing at the waistline and hem.
* **Lining Peeking Out:** If the lining is peeking out from under the hem, you may need to shorten the lining. Unpick the hem of the lining and trim off the excess fabric.
* **Puckering:** Puckering can be caused by a number of factors, including inaccurate cutting, uneven seams, or improper pressing. Try to identify the cause of the puckering and correct it. Sometimes, a good pressing can solve minor puckering issues.
* **Twisted Lining:** If the lining is twisted, it may be caused by uneven seam allowances or incorrect placement of the lining. Carefully check the seams and make sure the lining is aligned properly.
## Advanced Techniques
* **Floating Lining:** A floating lining is not attached to the skirt at the hem. This allows the skirt and lining to move independently, which can be beneficial for skirts made from delicate fabrics or skirts with special embellishments.
* **Partial Lining:** A partial lining only lines part of the skirt, such as the upper portion or the bodice. This can be used to provide modesty or support without adding bulk to the entire skirt.
* **Contrasting Lining:** A contrasting lining can add a pop of color or visual interest to your skirt. Be mindful of potential show-through when choosing a contrasting lining.
* **Decorative Lining:** Use a special or decorative fabric for the lining to add a touch of luxury or personality to your skirt. This can be a fun way to personalize your creations.
## Conclusion
Lining a skirt is a rewarding sewing technique that elevates the quality and appearance of your garments. By following these steps and tips, you can create beautifully lined skirts that you’ll be proud to wear. Remember to choose the right lining fabric, take your time, and pay attention to detail for a professional finish. Happy sewing!