The Ultimate Guide to Millipede Care: Creating a Thriving Habitat

Millipedes, often misunderstood and sometimes confused with centipedes (their predatory cousins), are fascinating and relatively easy-to-care-for invertebrates, making them excellent pets for beginners and experienced invertebrate enthusiasts alike. Their slow, deliberate movements, varied colors and patterns, and beneficial role in decomposing organic matter make them captivating additions to any home. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every aspect of millipede care, ensuring your multi-legged friends thrive in their captive environment.

Understanding Millipedes: A Brief Introduction

Before diving into the specifics of care, it’s essential to understand the basics of millipede biology and behavior.

* **Not Insects:** Millipedes belong to the class Diplopoda, meaning “double-footed.” This refers to the fact that each body segment typically has two pairs of legs, unlike insects, which have three pairs of legs and three body segments. This is a key differentiator that affects their locomotive abilities.
* **Detritivores:** Millipedes are primarily detritivores, meaning they feed on decaying organic matter like leaf litter, wood, and fungi. This makes them excellent recyclers and contributes to their ease of care, as their diet is relatively simple to replicate in captivity.
* **Defensive Mechanisms:** Millipedes lack the ability to bite or sting. Instead, they rely on defensive mechanisms like curling into a tight spiral to protect their soft underbelly. Some species also secrete defensive fluids that can be irritating to the skin or eyes of potential predators. Always wash your hands after handling millipedes.
* **Lifespan:** The lifespan of a millipede varies significantly depending on the species. Some smaller species live for only a year or two, while larger species can live for five to ten years or even longer. Knowing the lifespan of the species you own is crucial for long-term planning.
* **Diversity:** There are thousands of species of millipedes found across the globe, each with unique characteristics and requirements. Some common species kept as pets include the Giant African Millipede ( *Archispirostreptus gigas*), the Scarlet Millipede (*Trigoniulus macropygus*), and the Bumblebee Millipede (*Anadenobolus monilicornis*).

Setting Up the Perfect Millipede Habitat

Creating the right habitat is the foundation of successful millipede care. The enclosure should mimic their natural environment as closely as possible, providing the necessary conditions for them to thrive.

1. Enclosure Size and Type

The size of the enclosure depends on the size and number of millipedes you plan to keep. A good rule of thumb is to provide at least three to five times the millipede’s body length in both length and width. A 10-gallon aquarium or a plastic storage container with a secure lid is a suitable starting point for a few smaller millipedes. For larger species or larger groups, a 20-gallon or larger enclosure is recommended.

* **Material:** Plastic or glass enclosures are both suitable. Plastic containers are often lighter and more durable, while glass aquariums offer better visibility.
* **Lid:** A secure lid is essential to prevent escapes. Millipedes are surprisingly strong and can climb smooth surfaces, so the lid should fit tightly and ideally have small ventilation holes.
* **Avoid:** Avoid using enclosures made of cedar or other aromatic woods, as these can be toxic to millipedes.

2. Substrate: The Foundation of the Habitat

The substrate is arguably the most critical component of the millipede habitat. It provides a place for them to burrow, feed, and lay eggs. A suitable substrate should:

* **Retain Moisture:** Millipedes require a humid environment to prevent desiccation (drying out). The substrate should be able to retain moisture without becoming waterlogged.
* **Provide Nutrients:** As detritivores, millipedes will consume the substrate itself, so it should be rich in organic matter.
* **Be Safe and Non-Toxic:** Avoid using substrates that contain pesticides, fertilizers, or other harmful chemicals.

A good substrate mix typically consists of the following components:

* **Coco Coir:** Coco coir, made from coconut husks, is an excellent base for the substrate. It retains moisture well and is relatively inexpensive. Pre-packaged coco coir bricks or loose coir are readily available at pet stores and garden centers. Soak the brick according to instructions to expand before using.
* **Decaying Hardwood Leaves:** Oak, maple, beech, and other hardwood leaves are a natural food source for millipedes and add essential nutrients to the substrate. Collect leaves from pesticide-free areas and allow them to decompose partially before adding them to the enclosure. You can partially decompose the leaves in a covered bucket with some moisture, allowing some time for the natural break down process to begin. This will make it more appealing to your millipedes.
* **Decaying Wood:** Decaying wood, such as oak or maple, provides additional food and shelter for millipedes. Make sure the wood is free of pesticides and other chemicals. You can find suitable wood in forests or parks, but avoid taking wood from protected areas.
* **Sphagnum Moss:** Sphagnum moss helps retain moisture and can be used as a top layer to create a more humid microclimate. Dried sphagnum moss needs to be rehydrated with water before use.
* **Calcium Source:** A calcium source is essential for millipedes, especially during molting. Crushed cuttlebone, powdered eggshells, or limestone gravel can be added to the substrate to provide calcium. Cuttlebone, easily purchased at pet stores, is an excellent option. Millipedes will rasp at it directly as needed.

**Mixing the Substrate:**

* The ideal ratio for the substrate mix is approximately 50% coco coir, 30% decaying leaves, 10% decaying wood, and 10% sphagnum moss, with added calcium supplements.
* Mix all the ingredients thoroughly in a large container. Moisten the substrate with water until it is damp but not soggy. You should be able to squeeze a handful of substrate and only get a few drops of water out.
* Add the substrate to the enclosure, creating a layer that is at least 4-6 inches deep for smaller species and 8-12 inches deep for larger species. This allows the millipedes to burrow and feel secure.

3. Temperature and Humidity

Millipedes thrive in warm, humid environments. The ideal temperature range is between 70-80°F (21-27°C). Humidity should be maintained at 70-80%.

* **Temperature:**
* Most room temperatures are adequate. If the temperature in your home falls below 70°F, you may need to provide supplemental heating. This can be achieved with a heat mat placed on one side of the enclosure. Never place the heat mat directly under the enclosure, as this can dry out the substrate and harm the millipedes. Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature.
* Avoid direct sunlight, as this can overheat the enclosure.
* **Humidity:**
* Maintain humidity by misting the substrate regularly with dechlorinated water. The frequency of misting will depend on the ventilation and temperature of the enclosure.
* A hygrometer (humidity gauge) can be used to monitor humidity levels. You can easily purchase these online or at pet stores.
* Adding a layer of sphagnum moss to the top of the substrate can help retain moisture. It also provides a place for millipedes to burrow.
* Poor ventilation can lead to mold growth. Ensure adequate ventilation by providing small holes in the lid of the enclosure. However, avoid creating too much ventilation, as this can dry out the substrate too quickly.

4. Decorations and Enrichment

Providing decorations and enrichment items will make the enclosure more stimulating and naturalistic for your millipedes. This can encourage natural behaviors and reduce stress.

* **Hiding Places:** Provide plenty of hiding places for your millipedes, such as cork bark, leaf litter, rock caves, or half logs. These will allow them to feel secure and escape from the light.
* **Climbing Structures:** Millipedes are not particularly adept climbers, but they will appreciate having some climbing structures in their enclosure. Branches, twigs, or pieces of cork bark can provide opportunities for exploration.
* **Live Plants:** Live plants can add beauty and humidity to the enclosure. However, be sure to choose plants that are safe for millipedes and can tolerate humid conditions. Some good options include ferns, mosses, and pothos. Make sure there is proper air circulation in the enclosure to prevent mold or fungus from accumulating on the plants.
* **Water Dish (Optional):** While millipedes primarily obtain moisture from their substrate and food, you can provide a shallow water dish with dechlorinated water. Ensure the dish is shallow enough to prevent drowning. Place small stones or marbles in the dish to provide a way for the millipedes to climb out if they accidentally fall in.

Feeding Your Millipedes

Feeding millipedes is relatively simple, as they are primarily detritivores. Their diet consists mainly of decaying organic matter.

1. Primary Food Sources

* **Decaying Leaf Litter:** Decaying hardwood leaves are a staple food for millipedes. Replenish the leaf litter regularly, removing any moldy or uneaten leaves.
* **Decaying Wood:** Decaying wood provides additional nutrients and fiber for millipedes. Replace the wood as needed.
* **Fruits and Vegetables:** Supplement the diet with small amounts of fruits and vegetables. Good options include: Cucumber, Zucchini, Squash, Carrots, Apples, Bananas, Melon, and Sweet Potatoes. Offer these in small amounts to avoid attracting fruit flies or mold. Remove any uneaten food after 24 hours.
* **Commercial Millipede Food:** Some commercial millipede foods are available, but these are not essential if you provide a varied diet of natural food sources.

2. Calcium Supplementation

Calcium is essential for millipede health, especially during molting. Provide a constant source of calcium in the enclosure.

* **Cuttlebone:** Cuttlebone is an excellent source of calcium. Simply place a piece of cuttlebone in the enclosure, and the millipedes will rasp at it as needed.
* **Powdered Eggshells:** Powdered eggshells can also be added to the substrate as a calcium supplement. Clean and bake eggshells to sanitize, then grind them into a fine powder.
* **Limestone Gravel:** Limestone gravel can be added to the substrate to provide a source of calcium.

3. Feeding Frequency

* Millipedes do not need to be fed every day. Replenish the leaf litter and decaying wood as needed, and offer fruits and vegetables once or twice a week.
* Monitor the millipedes’ feeding habits and adjust the amount of food accordingly. If you notice that the food is being consumed quickly, you may need to provide more. If the food is accumulating and becoming moldy, reduce the amount you are offering.

4. Water

* Millipedes obtain most of their moisture from their substrate and food. However, it is essential to mist the enclosure regularly to maintain humidity. The misting of the substrate also provides them with the droplets of water that they may drink.
* A shallow water dish can be provided, but it is not essential.

Maintaining a Healthy Millipede Habitat

Regular maintenance is essential to ensure a healthy and thriving millipede habitat.

1. Substrate Maintenance

* **Regularly check the substrate for mold or fungus growth.** Remove any moldy or uneaten food immediately.
* **Maintain the moisture level of the substrate.** Mist the substrate regularly with dechlorinated water to keep it damp but not soggy. The goal is for the substrate to be damp to the touch, but not dripping wet. Too much moisture can lead to problems with fungus and mites.
* **Replace the substrate every few months.** Over time, the substrate will become depleted of nutrients and can accumulate waste products. A complete substrate change every 3-6 months is recommended. When replacing the substrate, save some of the old substrate to introduce beneficial bacteria and microfauna to the new substrate. These microorganisms help break down organic matter and maintain a healthy ecosystem in the enclosure.

2. Enclosure Cleaning

* **Spot clean the enclosure regularly.** Remove any feces or shed exoskeletons as needed.
* **Clean the sides of the enclosure with a damp cloth.** This will remove any algae or mineral deposits that may accumulate.
* **Avoid using harsh chemicals or detergents to clean the enclosure.** These can be harmful to millipedes. Use hot water or a mild soap solution to clean the enclosure.

3. Monitoring Millipede Health

* **Observe your millipedes regularly for signs of illness or stress.** Common signs of health problems include lethargy, loss of appetite, and abnormal behavior.
* **Check for mites.** Mites are common pests in millipede enclosures. They appear as tiny, moving specks. If you notice mites, you can try introducing predatory mites or springtails to the enclosure to control the mite population. You can also try removing the millipede from the enclosure and thoroughly cleaning the enclosure and substrate before returning the millipede.
* **Be careful when handling your millipedes.** Millipedes are delicate creatures and can be easily injured. Always handle them gently and avoid dropping them. If a millipede is dropped it can lead to broken legs or internal injuries, and possibly death.

Common Millipede Problems and Solutions

Even with the best care, problems can sometimes arise in a millipede habitat. Here are some common issues and how to address them:

* **Mites:** Mites are a common problem in millipede enclosures. They are tiny, white or brown creatures that can be seen crawling on the millipedes and the substrate. Mites are usually harmless, but they can become a nuisance if their population gets out of control. To control mites, try introducing predatory mites or springtails to the enclosure. These beneficial invertebrates will feed on the mites and help keep their population in check. You can also try removing the millipede from the enclosure and thoroughly cleaning the enclosure and substrate before returning the millipede.
* **Mold and Fungus:** Mold and fungus can grow in millipede enclosures if the humidity is too high or if there is poor ventilation. To prevent mold and fungus growth, ensure that the enclosure has adequate ventilation and avoid over-misting the substrate. Remove any moldy or uneaten food immediately. If mold or fungus growth is severe, you may need to replace the substrate.
* **Lack of Appetite:** A millipede that is not eating may be stressed, sick, or preparing to molt. Ensure that the enclosure is at the correct temperature and humidity, and provide a variety of food options. If the millipede is preparing to molt, it will often burrow into the substrate and remain inactive for several days or weeks. Do not disturb the millipede during this time.
* **Leg Loss:** Millipedes can sometimes lose legs due to injury or stress. If a millipede loses a leg, it will usually regenerate over time. Ensure that the enclosure is free of sharp objects that could injure the millipede, and provide a stress-free environment.
* **Stuck Molt:** If the humidity is not high enough a millipede may struggle when molting. If you notice that the millipede is having difficulty molting, increase the humidity in the enclosure by misting the substrate more frequently. You can also place a damp paper towel in the enclosure to provide a source of humidity. DO NOT attempt to manually remove the stuck molt, as this can injure the millipede. Molting problems are typically caused by issues with humidity or calcium intake. Ensuring that you are providing both in the proper amounts will resolve most issues.

Breeding Millipedes

Breeding millipedes can be a rewarding experience, but it requires careful attention to detail.

* **Species-Specific Requirements:** Breeding requirements vary depending on the species of millipede. Research the specific needs of your species before attempting to breed them.
* **Sexing Millipedes:** Sexing millipedes can be difficult, especially in younger individuals. In some species, males have modified legs called gonopods, which are used for transferring sperm to the female. These modifications are usually located on the 7th segment behind the head.
* **Mating:** Millipedes typically mate at night. The male will transfer a sperm packet to the female, who will then use it to fertilize her eggs. The act can last for several hours.
* **Egg Laying:** After mating, the female will lay her eggs in the substrate. The eggs are usually small and white or yellowish in color. The female may or may not guard the eggs, depending on the species.
* **Incubation:** The incubation period for millipede eggs varies depending on the species and the temperature. Keep the substrate moist but not soggy during incubation.
* **Hatchlings:** Millipede hatchlings are tiny and fragile. Provide them with a constant source of food and moisture. Be careful not to disturb them too much during their first few weeks of life.
* **Raising Young Millipedes:** Baby millipedes are very sensitive to their environmental conditions. Maintaining a steady and appropriate environment is essential for their survival. Feed baby millipedes the same diet as adults, but make sure the pieces are very small so they can ingest them. Continue the same care as adults and enjoy watching them grow.

Choosing the Right Millipede Species

Not all millipede species are created equal. Some are easier to care for than others, and some are more suitable for beginners. When choosing a millipede species, consider the following factors:

* **Size:** Millipedes range in size from a few millimeters to over a foot long. Choose a species that you have enough space to house.
* **Care Requirements:** Some millipede species have more demanding care requirements than others. Research the specific needs of the species you are interested in before acquiring them.
* **Availability:** Some millipede species are more readily available than others. Check with local pet stores or online breeders to see what species are available in your area.
* **Temperament:** Millipedes are generally docile creatures, but some species are more active than others. Consider your personal preferences when choosing a species.

Some popular millipede species for beginners include:

* **Giant African Millipede (*Archispirostreptus gigas*):** These are among the largest millipede species in the world and are relatively easy to care for.
* **Scarlet Millipede (*Trigoniulus macropygus*):** These are small, colorful millipedes that are active and entertaining to watch.
* **Bumblebee Millipede (*Anadenobolus monilicornis*):** These are small, striped millipedes that are popular for their distinctive appearance.

Ethical Considerations

Before acquiring a millipede, it’s essential to consider the ethical implications of keeping these animals in captivity.

* **Source:** Purchase millipedes from reputable breeders or suppliers. Avoid purchasing millipedes that have been wild-caught, as this can negatively impact wild populations. It is essential to be certain where your millipede came from. Choosing suppliers who breed their millipedes helps to protect wild populations.
* **Long-Term Commitment:** Millipedes can live for several years, so be prepared to provide them with proper care for the duration of their lives. This is the most important aspect of millipede care. If you are not willing to properly house, feed and maintain your millipede you should not purchase one.
* **Responsible Ownership:** Do not release millipedes into the wild. This can introduce invasive species and harm native ecosystems. If you can no longer care for your millipede, find a responsible new home for it.

Conclusion

Millipedes are fascinating and rewarding pets that can bring a touch of nature into your home. With proper care and attention, you can create a thriving habitat for these gentle giants and enjoy their unique beauty for years to come. This guide provides a comprehensive overview of millipede care, covering everything from setting up the enclosure to feeding and breeding. Remember to research the specific needs of your chosen species and always prioritize the well-being of your multi-legged friends.