What Is Selvedge Denim? A Comprehensive Guide to Premium Jeans
Selvedge denim, often hailed as the pinnacle of denim quality, has garnered a devoted following among denim enthusiasts. But what exactly is selvedge denim, and why is it so highly regarded? This comprehensive guide will delve into the intricacies of selvedge denim, exploring its origins, manufacturing process, key characteristics, and how to care for it. Whether you’re a seasoned denim aficionado or just beginning to explore the world of premium jeans, this article will provide you with a thorough understanding of selvedge denim and its unique appeal.
## The Origins of Selvedge Denim
The story of selvedge denim begins with the invention of the shuttle loom. Before the mid-20th century, shuttle looms were the standard for weaving fabric. These looms weave fabric using a single continuous weft thread that is passed back and forth across the warp threads, creating a clean, finished edge on both sides of the fabric. This finished edge is known as the selvedge (short for “self-edge”), preventing the fabric from unraveling. Because of this self-finished edge, there is no need for overlocking or stitching to prevent fraying. This creates a cleaner and more durable fabric, making it ideal for garments that require strength and longevity.
When denim production first began, shuttle looms were the only option available. Levi Strauss & Co., the company credited with creating the first pair of denim jeans, initially used denim woven on shuttle looms. These early jeans featured the characteristic selvedge edge, which became a symbol of quality and craftsmanship.
However, as demand for denim grew, manufacturers sought ways to increase production speed and reduce costs. This led to the adoption of projectile looms (also known as modern looms or rapier looms), which use separate weft threads for each pass across the warp threads. While projectile looms are much faster and more efficient than shuttle looms, they produce fabric with an unfinished edge that requires overlocking to prevent fraying.
## Shuttle Looms vs. Projectile Looms: The Key Difference
The fundamental difference between selvedge denim and non-selvedge denim lies in the type of loom used to weave the fabric. Understanding the characteristics of each loom is crucial for appreciating the qualities of selvedge denim.
**Shuttle Looms:**
* **Weaving Process:** Use a single continuous weft thread that passes back and forth across the warp threads.
* **Edge Finish:** Creates a clean, finished selvedge edge.
* **Production Speed:** Slower than projectile looms.
* **Fabric Characteristics:** Often produces a denser, more irregular fabric with unique character.
* **Cost:** More expensive to operate due to slower production speed and the need for skilled operators.
**Projectile Looms:**
* **Weaving Process:** Use separate weft threads for each pass across the warp threads.
* **Edge Finish:** Creates an unfinished edge that requires overlocking.
* **Production Speed:** Much faster than shuttle looms.
* **Fabric Characteristics:** Produces a more uniform and consistent fabric.
* **Cost:** Less expensive to operate due to faster production speed and lower labor costs.
Due to their higher production rate, projectile looms became the industry standard. However, some manufacturers continue to use shuttle looms to produce selvedge denim, recognizing its superior quality and unique characteristics. These manufacturers often cater to a niche market of denim enthusiasts who appreciate the craftsmanship and heritage associated with selvedge denim.
## Identifying Selvedge Denim
The easiest way to identify selvedge denim is by examining the outseam of the jeans. Selvedge jeans will have a clean, finished edge on the outseam, typically with a colored thread running along the edge. This colored thread, often red, is purely aesthetic and helps to identify the fabric as selvedge. The color of the selvedge line does not indicate the quality or origin of the denim; it’s merely a design choice by the manufacturer.
Here’s a step-by-step guide to identifying selvedge denim:
1. **Turn the jeans inside out:** This will allow you to clearly see the outseam of the legs.
2. **Locate the outseam:** The outseam is the seam that runs along the outside of the leg, from the waistband to the hem.
3. **Examine the edge of the fabric:** If the denim is selvedge, you will see a clean, finished edge with a colored thread (usually red, but it can be other colors as well) running along it. The edge should be neatly folded and stitched, creating a clean and durable finish.
4. **Look for the absence of overlocking:** Non-selvedge denim will have an overlocked edge, which is a series of looped stitches that prevent the fabric from fraying. Selvedge denim will not have this overlocked edge because the selvedge itself prevents fraying.
Keep in mind that some manufacturers may attempt to mimic the appearance of selvedge denim by adding a faux selvedge edge to non-selvedge jeans. However, these imitations are usually easy to spot because the edge will not be as clean or durable as a true selvedge edge. It’s always best to purchase selvedge denim from reputable brands known for their quality and craftsmanship.
## Characteristics of Selvedge Denim
Selvedge denim is known for its distinct characteristics, which contribute to its superior quality and unique appeal. These characteristics include:
* **Durability:** The dense weave and clean, finished edge of selvedge denim make it incredibly durable. Selvedge jeans are built to last and can withstand years of wear and tear.
* **Unique Fade Patterns:** Selvedge denim tends to develop unique fade patterns over time, reflecting the individual wearer’s lifestyle and habits. These fades, often referred to as “whiskers,” “honeycombs,” and “train tracks,” add character and personality to the jeans.
* **Higher Quality Cotton:** Selvedge denim is often made from higher quality cotton, such as long-staple cotton, which contributes to its strength, softness, and ability to develop beautiful fades.
* **Irregularity:** Due to the nature of shuttle looms, selvedge denim often has a slightly irregular texture, which adds to its unique character. This irregularity is not a flaw but rather a testament to the fabric’s handcrafted nature.
* **Higher Price Point:** Selvedge denim is generally more expensive than non-selvedge denim due to the higher production costs associated with shuttle looms and the use of higher quality materials. However, many denim enthusiasts believe that the superior quality and longevity of selvedge denim justify the higher price.
## Why Choose Selvedge Denim?
There are several compelling reasons to choose selvedge denim over non-selvedge denim:
* **Superior Quality:** Selvedge denim is made with higher-quality materials and woven on traditional shuttle looms, resulting in a more durable and long-lasting fabric.
* **Unique Fade Patterns:** Selvedge denim develops unique fade patterns over time, making each pair of jeans a one-of-a-kind piece.
* **Craftsmanship:** Selvedge denim represents a commitment to craftsmanship and tradition, appealing to those who appreciate quality and attention to detail.
* **Investment Piece:** While selvedge denim may be more expensive upfront, its durability and longevity make it a worthwhile investment in the long run.
* **Status Symbol:** Selvedge denim has become a symbol of denim expertise and refined personal taste. For many denim enthusiasts, it represents a deeper appreciation for the garment and its history.
## Caring for Selvedge Denim
To ensure that your selvedge denim jeans last for years to come, it’s important to care for them properly. Here are some tips for caring for selvedge denim:
* **Minimize Washing:** Washing your selvedge denim too frequently can cause it to fade prematurely and weaken the fabric. Try to wash your jeans as infrequently as possible, ideally only when they are visibly dirty or smelly.
* **Hand Wash or Machine Wash on Gentle:** When you do wash your selvedge denim, hand washing is the gentlest option. If you prefer to machine wash, use a gentle cycle with cold water and a mild detergent specifically designed for denim.
* **Turn Inside Out Before Washing:** Turning your jeans inside out before washing will help to protect the color and prevent fading.
* **Hang Dry:** Avoid putting your selvedge denim in the dryer, as the heat can cause it to shrink and damage the fabric. Instead, hang your jeans to dry in a well-ventilated area, away from direct sunlight.
* **Avoid Harsh Chemicals:** Avoid using bleach or other harsh chemicals on your selvedge denim, as these can damage the fabric and cause it to fade unevenly.
* **Spot Clean Stains:** For small stains, try spot cleaning with a damp cloth and mild detergent. Avoid rubbing the stain vigorously, as this can damage the fabric.
* **Consider Professional Cleaning:** For heavily soiled or stained selvedge denim, consider taking it to a professional dry cleaner who specializes in denim care.
## Breaking In Selvedge Denim
One of the unique aspects of selvedge denim is the “breaking-in” process. Raw selvedge denim is stiff and uncomfortable when first purchased. The more you wear the denim without washing it the more it will fade to your body shape. The fades show how you live your life.
Here are some steps to take to break in your selvedge denim.
* Wear them daily: The more you wear them the faster it will break in
* Do not wash often: Washing the denim breaks down the rigidness of the material.
* Do activities in them: The denim will stretch and form better if it is broken in while you move.
## Selvedge Denim Brands
Numerous brands specialize in producing high-quality selvedge denim jeans. Here are some of the most reputable and popular brands to consider:
* **Levi’s Made & Crafted/Vintage Clothing:** Levi’s, the originator of denim jeans, offers a range of selvedge denim options under its Made & Crafted and Vintage Clothing lines. These jeans pay homage to Levi’s heritage while incorporating modern fits and details.
* **Nudie Jeans:** Nudie Jeans is a Swedish brand known for its sustainable and ethically produced denim. They offer a wide range of selvedge denim jeans in various fits and washes.
* **A.P.C.:** A.P.C. (Atelier de Production et de Création) is a French brand known for its minimalist and timeless designs. Their selvedge denim jeans are a popular choice for those seeking a classic and understated look.
* **Raleigh Denim Workshop:** Raleigh Denim Workshop is an American brand that produces handcrafted selvedge denim jeans in Raleigh, North Carolina. They are known for their attention to detail and commitment to quality.
* **3sixteen:** 3sixteen is a New York-based brand that produces high-quality selvedge denim jeans with a focus on craftsmanship and durability.
* **Iron Heart:** Iron Heart is a Japanese brand known for its heavy-duty selvedge denim jeans, designed for motorcyclists and those who demand extreme durability.
* **Pure Blue Japan:** Pure Blue Japan is another Japanese brand that specializes in selvedge denim jeans with unique textures and indigo dyeing techniques.
* **Momotaro Jeans:** Momotaro Jeans is a Japanese brand that produces selvedge denim jeans using premium Japanese cotton and traditional dyeing methods.
* **Unbranded Brand:** The Unbranded Brand focuses on affordable selvedge denim focusing on entry-level raw denim jeans.
When choosing a selvedge denim brand, consider your budget, desired fit, and preferred aesthetic. Read reviews and do your research to find a brand that aligns with your needs and preferences.
## Selvedge Denim Styles and Fits
Selvedge denim jeans are available in a wide range of styles and fits to suit different body types and preferences. Some of the most popular styles and fits include:
* **Slim Fit:** Slim fit jeans are tapered through the leg and have a close-fitting silhouette. They are a popular choice for those who prefer a modern and streamlined look.
* **Straight Fit:** Straight fit jeans have a straight leg from the hip to the hem. They are a classic and versatile style that can be dressed up or down.
* **Tapered Fit:** Tapered fit jeans are wider at the thigh and taper down to a narrower leg opening. They offer a comfortable fit with a modern silhouette.
* **Relaxed Fit:** Relaxed fit jeans have a looser fit throughout the leg, providing maximum comfort and freedom of movement.
* **Bootcut:** Bootcut jeans are slightly flared from the knee down, designed to accommodate boots. They are a classic and timeless style.
* **High-Rise:** High-rise jeans sit at or above the natural waistline. They are a flattering and versatile style that can be paired with a variety of tops.
* **Low-Rise:** Low-rise jeans sit below the natural waistline. They are a more modern and casual style.
Consider your body type and personal preferences when choosing a selvedge denim style and fit. Try on different styles to see what looks and feels best on you.
## The Future of Selvedge Denim
Despite the dominance of projectile looms in the denim industry, selvedge denim continues to thrive. The demand for selvedge denim remains strong among denim enthusiasts who appreciate its superior quality, unique characteristics, and connection to denim heritage. As consumers become more conscious of the environmental and social impact of their clothing choices, selvedge denim, with its emphasis on quality and longevity, is likely to become even more appealing.
Some manufacturers are also exploring innovative ways to produce selvedge denim more sustainably, such as using organic cotton, natural dyes, and water-saving techniques. These efforts will help to ensure that selvedge denim remains a relevant and desirable choice for generations to come.
## Conclusion
Selvedge denim is more than just a type of fabric; it’s a symbol of craftsmanship, quality, and heritage. By understanding the origins, manufacturing process, and characteristics of selvedge denim, you can appreciate its unique appeal and make an informed decision when choosing your next pair of jeans. Whether you’re a seasoned denim enthusiast or just beginning your journey into the world of premium denim, selvedge denim offers a unique and rewarding experience. Invest in a pair of selvedge jeans, care for them properly, and watch them evolve into a one-of-a-kind reflection of your personal style.