Pocket Perfection: A Comprehensive Guide to Sewing Pants Pockets

Pockets are indispensable in our garments. They provide functionality, convenience, and often, a touch of style. But for those venturing into the world of garment construction, sewing pants pockets can sometimes feel like a daunting task. Fear not! This comprehensive guide will break down the process, offering detailed step-by-step instructions to help you master various types of pants pockets with confidence.

Why Knowing How to Sew Pockets is Essential

Before we dive in, let’s acknowledge the importance of this skill. Sewing pockets opens up a world of possibilities in your sewing projects. Here’s why you should learn how to sew pants pockets:

• Functionality: Pockets are essential for carrying everyday items like phones, keys, and wallets.
• Customization: You can customize the style, size, and placement of pockets to suit your needs and preferences.
• Professional Finish: Knowing how to sew pockets correctly gives your garments a more polished and professional look.
• Creative Expression: Pockets can become design elements themselves, adding a unique touch to your creations.
• Skill Building: Mastering pocket construction is a fundamental skill that translates to many other garment sewing techniques.

Types of Pants Pockets

There are many variations of pants pockets, but here are some of the most common ones you’ll encounter:

• In-Seam Pockets: The simplest and most versatile pocket, integrated within a side seam.
• Patch Pockets: Sewn onto the surface of the garment, creating a visible pocket.
• Front Hip Pockets (Slant Pockets/Curved Pockets): A common design detail, angling down from the waistband.
• Back Welt Pockets: Often seen on tailored trousers, featuring a neat, finished slit.
• Cargo Pockets: Typically large, often with a flap, designed for utility.

This guide will focus on the most fundamental types: In-Seam Pockets, Patch Pockets and Front Hip Pockets.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you begin, gather the following supplies:

• Fabric: Choose a fabric that complements your garment fabric. You might want to use the same fabric, or a lighter, more durable one for linings.
• Scissors or Rotary Cutter: For precise cutting.
• Pins or Clips: To hold fabric pieces in place.
• Seam Ripper: For correcting mistakes.
• Iron and Ironing Board: Essential for pressing seams.
• Sewing Machine: With appropriate needles and thread.
• Pattern Pieces (if applicable): Some pocket designs require specific pattern pieces.
• Measuring Tape/Ruler: For accurate measurements.
• Tailor’s Chalk or Fabric Marker: For marking fabric.

Sewing an In-Seam Pocket

This is the most basic and beginner-friendly pocket. It’s integrated into the side seam of the pants.

Step 1: Cutting the Pocket Pieces

Most patterns will provide pocket bag pieces (usually four identical pieces for two pockets). If not, you can cut your own. The pieces typically resemble a rounded square or rectangle. Ensure they’re large enough for functionality, and also factor in seam allowances. A typical measurement could be roughly 7-8 inches wide and 8-9 inches long, but you should adjust depending on the size of your garment and your preference. Cut four identical pieces.

Step 2: Marking the Pocket Placement

Mark the location of the pocket opening on the right side of your pant leg fabric. This marking is crucial for consistent placement on both sides of the garment. Using your pattern as a guide or a measuring tape, mark the top and bottom of where the pocket opening will be. Usually the top of the pocket opening will start a few inches below the waistband, typically around 3-4 inches, but check your pattern instructions. A typical pocket opening length might be around 6 inches.

Step 3: Pinning the Pocket Bags

Pin one pocket bag piece to the right side of each leg, matching the top of the pocket bag with the marked top of your pocket opening. Make sure the right side of the pocket bag is facing the right side of the pants. Pin another pocket bag to the other side (back leg piece), matching it up with the pocket opening markings with its right side facing the right side of the back leg piece.

Step 4: Sewing the Pocket Bags

Sew the pocket bags to the pant leg fabric using a 1/2 inch seam allowance or as indicated in your pattern. Sew from the top of the pocket opening mark down to the bottom of the pocket opening mark, making sure to backstitch at the beginning and the end of this stitching. Repeat on the other pant leg pieces.

Step 5: Pressing the Pocket Seams

Press the seam allowances of the pocket pieces away from the pant leg fabric. This will help create a clean edge and prevent bulkiness.

Step 6: Pinning the Pants Legs Together

Pin the front and back pant leg pieces together, matching all seams, including the pocket seams. Make sure that the right sides are facing.

Step 7: Sewing the Side Seams and the Pocket

Sew the side seam from the top of the pants, around the pocket pieces and down to the hem. When you reach the pocket bag, sew around the pocket bags, using your previous stitching line as a guide, to close off the side seam. Begin sewing a bit before the first pocket stitch and end a bit after the last pocket stitch you made, this helps to secure the pocket to the pants. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and the end of the seam. On the other side, stitch the same.

Step 8: Finishing the Pocket

Press the seam allowances towards the back of the pants, or as your pattern dictates. Now you have an in-seam pocket! It should lay flat and seamlessly along the side seam of your pants.

Step 9: Optional – Topstitching

For added durability and a decorative touch, you can topstitch along the side seam, close to the pocket opening. This can prevent the pocket fabric from shifting or folding outwards.

Sewing a Patch Pocket

Patch pockets are applied to the surface of the garment, offering a visible and versatile pocket style.

Step 1: Cutting the Pocket Piece

Cut the pocket piece according to your pattern or your desired size and shape. Add seam allowance on all sides (usually 1/2 inch). You can choose any shape: square, rectangle, rounded corners, even more creative, as your design allows.

Step 2: Preparing the Top Edge

Press the top edge of the pocket down by 1/4 inch on the wrong side. Then, press it down again by another 1/2 inch or the amount indicated by your pattern. This creates a neat, finished edge for the top of the pocket. Topstitch this fold down close to the edge to secure it.

Step 3: Preparing the Other Edges

Press the remaining edges of the pocket inwards by 1/2 inch (or your seam allowance) on the wrong side. This will prepare the pocket for attachment to the garment.

Step 4: Pinning the Pocket to the Garment

Decide where you want your pocket to be placed. Using your pattern instructions or your preferences, mark the pocket placement on your pants using tailor’s chalk or fabric marker. Pin the pocket to the right side of the pants, ensuring it is accurately positioned.

Step 5: Sewing the Pocket

Sew around the sides and bottom of the pocket, using a 1/8 inch or 1/4 inch topstitch, carefully following the folded edge. Start at one of the top corners and stitch around and stop at the other top corner, leaving the top of the pocket open. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and the end of this line of stitching.

Step 6: Optional – Reinforce the Corners

For added durability, consider reinforcing the top corners of the pocket with a small stitch triangle or box. This can help to prevent wear and tear on the corners, especially for pockets that will carry heavier items.

Sewing Front Hip Pockets (Slant Pockets/Curved Pockets)

These stylish pockets add a professional finish to your pants, typically angling downwards from the waistband.

Step 1: Cutting the Pocket Pieces

These usually have two pieces: a pocket facing and a pocket bag. Cut them carefully according to your pattern instructions. The pocket facing is usually a curved piece of fabric that is sewn onto the pants. The pocket bag piece is what will form the pocket itself.

Step 2: Preparing the Pocket Facing

If your pattern specifies, finish the outer edge of your pocket facing (the edge that won’t be attached to the pants) with an overlock stitch, zig zag stitch, or a serger.

Step 3: Attaching the Pocket Facing

Pin the pocket facing to the right side of the pant front, aligning the raw edge of the facing with the pocket opening mark on your pants (as shown on your pattern) with the right sides facing each other. Sew along this line. You will be sewing along the curve of the pocket opening. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and the end of this line of stitching.

Step 4: Pressing the Seam

Press the seam allowance of the pocket facing towards the pocket opening of the pants. This helps to create a clean fold.

Step 5: Understitching (Optional but Recommended)

Understitching is a line of stitching sewn through the pocket facing and the seam allowance on the wrong side, very close to the seam (approximately 1/8th of an inch). This will prevent the pocket facing from rolling outwards and ensures the pocket edge lays nicely. The stitching is sewn from the seam allowance side and only catches the pocket facing and seam allowance.

Step 6: Attaching the Pocket Bag

Pin the pocket bag to the back of the pocket facing on the wrong side of the garment, aligning the raw edges. The right side of the pocket bag should be facing the wrong side of the pants. Sew along the curved edge of the pocket facing, sandwiching the pocket facing between the pocket bag and pants.

Step 7: Pressing and Finishing

Press the seam allowances of the pocket bag down. Secure the pocket bag to the pant front using a basting stitch if necessary, this will help keep it in place when you sew the side seams. When you attach the back leg piece of the pants, be sure to stitch around the pocket bag attaching it to the front leg piece. After this, sew and finish the pants as per your pattern instructions.

Step 8: Topstitching (Optional)

You can topstitch along the edge of the pocket opening for a clean, finished look and added structure. This will help the pocket lay flat and prevent the pocket facing from rolling outwards.

Tips for Success

• Read your pattern instructions carefully. Each pattern may have slight variations in pocket construction.
• Practice on scrap fabric first. This will allow you to get the hang of the process and correct any mistakes before working on your final garment.
• Use a sharp needle and quality thread. These can improve the quality of your stitches and make your sewing process easier.
• Press your seams regularly. Pressing is essential for a professional finish and will help to ensure your pockets lay flat and are free of bulk.
• Take your time and sew slowly. Rushing will increase the chance of mistakes. Accuracy in pocket construction makes a big difference in overall look and fit.
• Use contrasting thread for practice. If practicing on scrap fabric, using a contrasting thread will make it easier to see your stitches and identify any errors you may have made.
• Don’t be afraid to adjust. Every sewing project will be a little different so be prepared to make adjustments along the way to achieve the fit you want.

Conclusion

Sewing pants pockets might seem challenging at first, but with practice and patience, you can master this essential skill. By understanding the different types of pockets and following these detailed steps, you’ll be well on your way to creating beautiful and functional garments. Don’t be afraid to experiment and customize your pockets to suit your unique style. Happy sewing!