Achieve Subtle Highlights: A Comprehensive Guide to Bleach Washing Your Hair at Home

Dreaming of sun-kissed highlights or a slightly lighter overall hair color without the harshness of full-on bleaching? Then bleach washing, also known as a bleach bath, might be the perfect technique for you. This gentler approach uses a diluted bleach mixture to subtly lift pigment from your hair, creating a softer and more natural-looking result than traditional bleaching. Whether you’re a seasoned DIY stylist or a complete beginner, this comprehensive guide will walk you through every step of performing a successful bleach wash at home.

What is a Bleach Wash (Bleach Bath)?

A bleach wash is essentially a diluted form of bleaching. Instead of applying full-strength bleach directly to your hair, you mix it with developer, shampoo, and sometimes even conditioner. This diluted mixture is less potent, allowing for a more gradual and controlled lightening process. The result is a subtle lift, making it ideal for:

• Lifting a few shades: If your hair is just a little too dark or brassy, a bleach wash can gently lighten it to your desired shade.
• Adding subtle highlights: This is a great technique for creating natural-looking, sun-kissed highlights without the need for foils.
• Toning down brassiness: While not a toner itself, a bleach wash can help to slightly lift the underlying brassy tones, making your hair more receptive to toner.
• Refreshing faded color: It can brighten up faded colored hair without causing significant damage.
• Preparing hair for other treatments: You can lightly pre-lighten your hair before applying a semi-permanent dye, achieving a more vibrant color outcome.

Is a Bleach Wash Right for You?

Before diving in, it’s crucial to assess whether a bleach wash is the appropriate method for your hair. Consider the following:

• Your Hair’s Condition: If your hair is already damaged, dry, brittle, or heavily processed, a bleach wash might not be the best option. It’s crucial to prioritize your hair’s health before any chemical treatment. Consider deep conditioning treatments for a few weeks prior to the bleach wash, if necessary.
• Your Current Hair Color: Bleach washes are best for slightly dark or brassy hair. If you have very dark brown or black hair and desire significant lightening (more than two shades), a full bleach is probably needed before a bleach wash might be effective in toning or maintaining the lift. Remember, they provide a gentle lift and may not lift significantly, especially on very dark base colors.
• Your Desired Result: If you are looking for dramatic, drastic lightening, then a full bleach is likely needed, as bleach washing is about subtle changes. However, you can use a bleach wash to tone your hair after it has been lifted with a stronger treatment.
• Your Experience Level: Bleach washes are generally easier to do at home compared to full bleaching, but they still require care and attention. If you’re uncomfortable with chemical processes, consider consulting a professional hairstylist.

What You’ll Need

Gather these essential supplies before you begin:

• Bleach Powder: Use a high-quality bleach powder specifically designed for hair. Avoid using household bleach, which can severely damage your hair. Opt for professional brands from beauty supply stores.
• Developer: Choose a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume). The higher the volume, the more lift you’ll achieve, but the more damage it can potentially cause. For a gentle bleach wash, 10 volume is often sufficient, 20 volume can be used for a slightly more pronounced lift.
• Shampoo: Any clarifying shampoo or even a regular shampoo, will work. A sulfate-based shampoo may work a little quicker, but using a gentler shampoo is not an issue.
• Optional: Conditioner or Hair Mask: Adding a bit of conditioner or hair mask to the mixture is especially helpful for very dry hair, adding an additional layer of protection. This can help further dilute the bleach, making it even gentler and provide some moisture.
• Mixing Bowl: Use a non-metallic mixing bowl to avoid chemical reactions.
• Tint Brush: A tint brush is needed for applying the bleach mixture to your hair.
• Gloves: Protect your hands with a pair of gloves.
• Old Towel: Drape an old towel around your shoulders to protect your clothing.
• Hair Clips: To section your hair.
• Timer: To keep track of the processing time.

Step-by-Step Guide to Bleach Washing Your Hair

Now that you have everything you need, let’s get started:

1. Preparation

• Do a Strand Test: Before applying the mixture to your whole head, perform a strand test. Mix a small amount of the bleach mixture (as you will do later for full head application) and apply it to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair, preferably near your nape. This test will help you understand how your hair will react to the bleach wash and how long it will take to achieve the desired results. Wait for the recommended processing time and then assess.
• Protect Your Workspace and Clothes: Lay down some old newspapers or towels to protect your surfaces and drape an old towel around your shoulders.
• Wear Gloves: Put on your gloves to protect your hands from the bleach.
• Section Your Hair: Divide your hair into four or more sections using hair clips. This will make it easier to apply the mixture evenly.

2. Mixing the Bleach Wash Solution

The mixing ratio for a bleach wash can vary depending on the desired intensity and your hair’s condition. However, a good starting point is:

• Bleach Powder: One part
• Developer (10 or 20 volume): Two parts
• Shampoo: One to two parts
• Optional: Conditioner or Hair Mask: Half to One part

For instance, if you were to use two tablespoons of bleach powder, you would use four tablespoons of developer, two to four tablespoons of shampoo, and one to two tablespoons of optional conditioner/mask.

Example recipe: 2 tablespoons of bleach powder, 4 tablespoons of 10 volume developer, 3 tablespoons of shampoo and 1 tablespoon of conditioner.

The consistency should be similar to a runny yogurt or a thick liquid. Begin with small amounts and gradually add to make sure you get the desired consistency. Mix the ingredients thoroughly with your tint brush until well combined.

Important Notes:

• Mixing order is not critical for bleach baths, but mixing the bleach and developer together first, then adding shampoo and conditioner may allow you to see the consistency of the mixture better.
• Always use a plastic or glass bowl, never metal.
• Do not mix your bleach bath until you are ready to use it as the mixture’s potency will lessen over time.

3. Applying the Bleach Wash

• Start at the Roots: Begin by applying the bleach mixture to your roots. This is where the most resistant color is usually located, so it needs a little more processing time. It’s helpful to apply to your roots first, making sure they are well saturated. Using the tint brush, work the mixture into the roots section by section.
• Move to the Mid-Lengths and Ends: Once you’ve covered the roots, apply the mixture to the mid-lengths and ends of your hair. If you are only wanting to brighten up your ends and mid-lengths and not lift at the root, apply only to the mid-lengths and ends.
• Evenly Distribute the Mixture: Ensure that every strand of hair is evenly coated with the bleach wash. You can use your fingers (with gloves on) to work the mixture through your hair. Do not use your bare hands.
• Work Quickly: Bleach mixtures begin to work as soon as they are mixed, therefore, you want to work quickly and get the entire hair saturated before the process begins.
• Avoid the Scalp: Apply to your hair and avoid the scalp as much as possible to help protect it from any potential irritation, unless you are aiming for highlights or lifting the root. This can be more challenging for all-over lifting, but do the best you can.

4. Processing Time

The processing time for a bleach wash is usually shorter than for a full bleach and depends on how much lift you desire and how quickly your hair is reacting. As a general guideline:

• Start Checking After 5-10 Minutes: Keep a close eye on your hair’s color and how much it is lightening.
• Recommended Time: Do not leave on longer than 20 minutes.
• Factors that can change processing time: Hair porosity, current hair color and desired lift can alter processing times.

Tips for Monitoring the Processing Time:

• Check Frequently: Gently wipe the mixture off a small section of hair every few minutes to see how it’s progressing. Do this gently to avoid causing any hair damage.
• Don’t Go Too Light: Remember that the bleach wash will continue to lift the color a little as the hair oxidizes, or dries. If you leave it on for too long, you could end up with a color that is lighter than you wanted.
• Use a Mirror: Look at the back of your head to make sure you aren’t missing any spots.

5. Rinsing and Washing

• Rinse Thoroughly: Once the desired level of lift has been achieved, rinse your hair thoroughly with lukewarm water until all traces of the bleach mixture are removed.
• Shampoo Gently: Use a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo to cleanse your hair. This will be less harsh on your hair after the bleaching process.
• Apply a Deep Conditioner or Hair Mask: Bleaching can be drying, so apply a deep conditioner or hair mask to replenish moisture and nourish your hair. Leave it on for at least 10-15 minutes.
• Rinse Again: Thoroughly rinse out the conditioner or hair mask.

6. Styling and Post-Care

• Avoid Heat Styling: Let your hair air dry or use the lowest heat setting on your dryer for the first day or two. Minimizing heat styling can prevent further damage.
• Use Color-Safe Products: Continue using color-safe shampoos and conditioners to maintain your color and prevent fading.
• Moisturize Regularly: Incorporate a moisturizing routine into your hair care to combat dryness and breakage.
• Avoid Sun Exposure: Prolonged sun exposure can fade your color, so protect your hair with hats or scarves, especially when spending time outdoors.
• Repeat After Several Weeks, If Needed: Bleach washes are not a permanent process, and if you are seeking a more dramatic or lighter result than what you achieved from the first bleach wash, you can repeat the process again in several weeks, after your hair has recovered from the first bleach wash.

Important Safety Tips

• Always do a strand test. This step is crucial to avoid surprises and ensures you achieve the result you desire.
• Work in a well-ventilated area. The fumes from bleach can be strong, so make sure you are in a space with good air circulation.
• Do not leave the mixture on too long. Over-processing can cause severe damage, dryness and breakage.
• Use the correct developer volume. Using a volume of developer that is too high can cause unnecessary damage to your hair.
• Avoid overlapping the mixture. This can cause uneven color or damage to the hair. When you reapply a bleach wash, only apply it to the newly grown-out areas.
• Do not use on damaged hair. You risk severe breakage and damage if you apply bleach to damaged hair. Wait until your hair is healthy to try the treatment.
• Be aware of the risk of scalp irritation. If the bleach is applied directly to the scalp and irritation occurs, wash immediately with lukewarm water.
• If you experience any extreme scalp burning, itching or irritation, rinse the bleach off immediately.
• Do not perform bleach washing at the same time as other chemical treatments. These can react badly with each other.
• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for all products used. Do not mix anything with the mixture unless you know the ingredients are compatible.

Troubleshooting

• Uneven Lightening: This can be due to uneven application, especially if one section was covered before others. To fix this, you may need to apply only to the sections that were not properly treated.
• Brassy Tones: If your hair turns brassy, consider using a toner specifically formulated to neutralize warm tones.
• Dry Hair: If your hair feels dry after the bleach wash, ensure you are using a moisturizing shampoo, conditioner, and hair mask regularly.
• Hair feels gummy: Over-processed hair can have a ‘gummy’ texture when wet. Reduce the processing time for subsequent bleach washes and focus on strengthening and nourishing your hair by using protein treatments and moisture masks.

When to Consult a Professional

While bleach washes are gentler than traditional bleaching, they are still chemical processes that can cause damage if not performed correctly. Consider consulting a professional hairstylist if:

• You have severely damaged or very dry hair.
• You are looking for a significant color change.
• You are uncomfortable performing the process yourself.
• You need advice on the best products or techniques for your hair type and color.

Final Thoughts

Bleach washing can be a fantastic way to achieve subtle, sun-kissed highlights or a lighter overall color at home. By following this comprehensive guide and taking the necessary precautions, you can achieve beautiful results while minimizing potential damage. Remember to always prioritize the health of your hair and do a strand test before applying any chemical treatments. Happy bleaching!