Achieve the Perfect Ash Blonde: A Step-by-Step Guide
Embarking on the journey to ash blonde hair is an exciting transformation, but it’s crucial to understand that achieving this coveted shade requires patience, careful planning, and a commitment to maintaining your hair’s health. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step of the process, from assessing your hair’s suitability to aftercare tips that will keep your ash blonde locks looking vibrant and healthy.
## Is Ash Blonde Right for You?
Before diving into the process, consider whether ash blonde is a good fit for your complexion and lifestyle. Ash blonde, with its cool, silvery undertones, generally complements fair to medium skin tones with cool or neutral undertones. If you have warm undertones (golden, olive, or peachy), ash blonde might wash you out. However, with the right makeup and styling, you can still make it work! Experimenting with temporary ash blonde hair color sprays or filters on photos can give you a better idea of how the color will look on you.
Beyond skin tone, think about the upkeep required. Ash blonde is a high-maintenance color that requires regular touch-ups to combat brassiness and maintain its cool tone. Are you prepared to dedicate the time and resources (salon appointments or at-home treatments) to keep your ash blonde hair looking its best?
## Understanding Your Hair’s Starting Point
The success of your ash blonde transformation heavily depends on your natural hair color and its condition. If you have dark hair (brunette or black), achieving ash blonde will require multiple lightening sessions, which can be damaging. Dark hair contains a high level of red and orange undertones that need to be lifted before the ash blonde toner can be applied. Light brown or blonde hair will require less lifting and will be easier to transform to ash blonde.
Assess your hair’s health. Is it dry, brittle, or damaged from previous coloring or heat styling? If so, prioritize repairing your hair’s condition before attempting to lighten it. Deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and avoiding heat styling will help strengthen your hair and prepare it for the lightening process.
## Gathering Your Supplies
Whether you choose to go to a salon or attempt the transformation at home, having the right supplies is essential. Here’s a comprehensive list:
* **Lightening Kit:** Choose a high-quality lightening kit appropriate for your hair color and type. If you’re unsure, opt for a lower volume developer (20 volume) to minimize damage. Box dye is generally discouraged as it can be very damaging and unpredictable. Opt for professional developer and bleach powder. Consult with a professional for product recommendations.
* **Developer:** This activates the bleach and lifts the color from your hair. Volume refers to the strength, which lifts the hair colour to the desired level. The higher the volume, the stronger the lift. Use 10-20 vol for finer hair, 30-40 vol for darker hair and course hair.
* **Bleach Powder:** Mix with developer to create the lightening mixture.
* **Toner:** This is crucial for neutralizing unwanted yellow or orange tones and achieving the cool, ash blonde shade. Choose a toner specifically formulated for ash blonde hair.
* **Purple Shampoo and Conditioner:** These are essential for maintaining the ash blonde color and preventing brassiness. Use them regularly in place of your regular shampoo and conditioner.
* **Deep Conditioner or Hair Mask:** Lightening can be drying, so a deep conditioner or hair mask is vital for restoring moisture and preventing breakage. Use weekly.
* **Protein Treatment:** Lightening hair can weaken the hair shaft, so a protein treatment will help strengthen and rebuild the hair.
* **Applicator Brush:** For precise application of the lightener and toner.
* **Mixing Bowl:** Non-metallic, for mixing the lightener and toner.
* **Gloves:** To protect your hands from the chemicals.
* **Old Towel or Cape:** To protect your clothing.
* **Hair Clips:** To section your hair.
* **Timer:** To monitor the processing time.
* **Coconut Oil or Hair Oil:** Apply to your scalp the day before bleaching to protect it from irritation.
* **Hair Colour Remover (Optional):** If you have previous hair dye, especially red or dark colors, a color remover can help lift the artificial pigment before bleaching.
* **Bond Builder (Optional):** Such as Olaplex or similar products, which help protect and repair hair bonds during the lightening process. They can be mixed with the bleach and used as a post-treatment.
## The Lightening Process: Step-by-Step
**Important:** Perform a strand test before applying the lightener to your entire head. This will help you assess how your hair reacts to the bleach and determine the appropriate processing time. To perform the strand test, mix a small amount of lightener and developer according to the instructions and apply it to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair. Check the strand every few minutes until you achieve the desired level of lift.
1. **Prepare Your Hair:** A day or two before lightening, apply a generous amount of coconut oil to your hair, focusing on the ends. This will help protect your hair from damage during the bleaching process. Do not wash your hair before lightening, as the natural oils will help protect your scalp.
2. **Protect Yourself and Your Workspace:** Wear gloves and an old towel or cape to protect your clothing. Work in a well-ventilated area.
3. **Mix the Lightener:** Follow the instructions on your lightening kit to mix the lightener and developer in a non-metallic bowl. Be precise with the measurements to ensure the mixture is properly balanced.
4. **Section Your Hair:** Divide your hair into four sections: two in the front and two in the back. Secure each section with hair clips.
5. **Apply the Lightener:** Starting with the back sections, apply the lightener to small, thin sections of hair, working from the roots to the ends. Ensure that each strand is thoroughly saturated with the lightener. If you have previously colored hair, avoid applying the lightener directly to the roots during the first application, as the heat from your scalp can cause the roots to lift faster than the rest of your hair. Apply the lightener to the roots during the last 15-20 minutes of processing time.
6. **Process the Lightener:** Monitor the processing time carefully, checking the strand regularly. Do not exceed the maximum processing time recommended on the lightening kit. The goal is to lift your hair to a pale yellow or almost white shade. This may require multiple lightening sessions, especially if you have dark hair. If your hair starts to feel brittle or damaged, stop the lightening process immediately.
7. **Rinse and Wash:** Once the desired level of lift is achieved, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water. Shampoo your hair with a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo and follow with a deep conditioner or hair mask. Leave the conditioner on for at least 10 minutes to restore moisture and prevent breakage.
8. **Assess Your Hair’s Condition:** After lightening, evaluate your hair’s condition. If it feels dry, brittle, or damaged, postpone toning and focus on repairing your hair with protein treatments and deep conditioning masks for a few days or weeks. Continue with regular deep conditioning treatments until your hair feels healthy enough to handle the toning process.
## Toning for Ash Blonde Perfection
Once your hair is lightened to the appropriate level and its condition has improved, it’s time to tone. Toning is essential for neutralizing any remaining yellow or orange tones and achieving the cool, ash blonde shade.
1. **Mix the Toner:** Follow the instructions on your toner to mix it with the developer. Use the recommended developer volume for your toner. A lower volume developer (10 volume) is generally recommended for toning to avoid further damage.
2. **Apply the Toner:** Apply the toner to your hair, ensuring that each strand is thoroughly saturated. Work quickly and evenly to prevent uneven toning.
3. **Process the Toner:** Monitor the processing time carefully, checking the strand regularly. Do not exceed the maximum processing time recommended on the toner packaging. The toner will neutralize the yellow or orange tones and deposit the ash blonde pigment.
4. **Rinse and Condition:** Once the toner has processed, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water. Apply a deep conditioner or hair mask to restore moisture and close the hair cuticle.
## Maintaining Your Ash Blonde Hair
Maintaining ash blonde hair requires a consistent routine to prevent brassiness, keep your color vibrant, and protect your hair’s health.
* **Use Purple Shampoo and Conditioner:** Purple shampoo and conditioner are essential for neutralizing yellow tones and preventing brassiness. Use them regularly in place of your regular shampoo and conditioner, typically 1-2 times per week.
* **Limit Washing:** Washing your hair too frequently can strip the color and dry out your hair. Try to wash your hair only 2-3 times per week.
* **Use Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Conditioner:** Sulfates can strip the color and moisture from your hair. Choose sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner to help maintain your ash blonde color and keep your hair healthy.
* **Deep Condition Regularly:** Lightening can be drying, so deep conditioning is essential for restoring moisture and preventing breakage. Use a deep conditioner or hair mask at least once a week.
* **Protect Your Hair from Heat:** Heat styling can damage your hair and fade the color. Use a heat protectant spray before using any heat styling tools, such as blow dryers, straighteners, or curling irons. Try to minimize heat styling as much as possible.
* **Avoid Chlorine:** Chlorine can turn ash blonde hair green. Wear a swimming cap when swimming in chlorinated water, or apply a leave-in conditioner to your hair before swimming to create a barrier.
* **Get Regular Touch-Ups:** To maintain your ash blonde color, you’ll need to get regular touch-ups every 4-6 weeks to lighten the roots and tone the hair. Consult with a professional stylist for the best results.
* **Use a Toner Refresher:** Between salon visits, you can use a toner refresher to keep your ash blonde color looking vibrant. These are available in the form of glosses or toners that can be applied at home.
* **Eat a Healthy Diet:** A healthy diet rich in vitamins and minerals can promote hair growth and health. Include plenty of fruits, vegetables, and protein in your diet.
## Common Mistakes to Avoid
* **Over-Processing:** Over-processing your hair can lead to severe damage, breakage, and even hair loss. Be patient and avoid trying to lighten your hair too quickly.
* **Using the Wrong Products:** Using low-quality or inappropriate products can damage your hair and lead to unsatisfactory results. Choose high-quality products specifically formulated for bleached or colored hair.
* **Ignoring Your Hair’s Condition:** Ignoring your hair’s condition can lead to further damage and breakage. Prioritize repairing your hair’s health before attempting to lighten or tone it.
* **Skipping the Strand Test:** Skipping the strand test can lead to unexpected results and potential damage. Always perform a strand test before applying any chemicals to your entire head.
* **Not Seeking Professional Help:** If you’re unsure about any part of the process, don’t hesitate to seek professional help. A qualified stylist can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the right products, and perform the lightening and toning process safely and effectively.
## Salon vs. At-Home: Which is Right for You?
Choosing between a salon and an at-home ash blonde transformation depends on your experience level, budget, and the complexity of your desired result.
**Salon:**
* **Pros:**
* Expertise and experience of a professional stylist.
* Access to high-quality products and tools.
* Lower risk of damage and mistakes.
* Customized color formulation for your hair type and skin tone.
* More complex color techniques (e.g., balayage, highlights).
* **Cons:**
* Higher cost.
* Time commitment for appointments.
**At-Home:**
* **Pros:**
* Lower cost.
* Convenience of doing it yourself.
* **Cons:**
* Higher risk of damage and mistakes.
* Requires careful planning and execution.
* Limited access to professional products and tools.
* More difficult to achieve complex color techniques.
If you have dark hair, damaged hair, or are attempting a drastic color change, it’s generally best to go to a salon. A professional stylist can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the appropriate lightening and toning process, and minimize the risk of damage.
If you have light hair, are comfortable with DIY hair coloring, and are only looking for a subtle change, an at-home ash blonde transformation may be a viable option. However, it’s crucial to do your research, follow the instructions carefully, and prioritize your hair’s health.
## Product Recommendations
* **Lightener:** Wella Blondor Multi Blonde Powder Lightener, Schwarzkopf BlondMe Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+
* **Developer:** Wella Welloxon Perfect Developer, Schwarzkopf BlondMe Premium Developer
* **Toner:** Wella Color Charm T14, T18, or T28, Redken Shades EQ Gloss
* **Purple Shampoo:** Olaplex No. 4P Blonde Enhancer Toning Shampoo, Fanola No Yellow Shampoo
* **Deep Conditioner:** Olaplex No. 3 Hair Perfector, Moroccanoil Intense Hydrating Mask
* **Protein Treatment:** Aphogee Two-Step Protein Treatment, Redken Extreme Anti-Snap
* **Bond Builder:** Olaplex No. 1 and No. 2 (salon use), Olaplex No. 3 Hair Perfector (at-home use)
## Conclusion
Achieving the perfect ash blonde hair is a journey that requires patience, dedication, and a commitment to your hair’s health. By following these steps, choosing the right products, and maintaining a consistent aftercare routine, you can achieve stunning ash blonde locks that will turn heads. Remember to prioritize your hair’s health throughout the process and don’t hesitate to seek professional help if needed. With careful planning and execution, you can transform your hair into the cool, chic ash blonde shade of your dreams.