Achieving Platinum Perfection: A Comprehensive Guide to Bleaching Your Hair at Home
Going platinum blonde is a bold and transformative hair color choice. It’s a statement, a commitment, and undeniably chic. However, achieving that coveted icy hue at home requires meticulous planning, careful execution, and a healthy dose of patience. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step of the process, from assessing your hair’s condition to maintaining your dazzling new platinum locks.
**Disclaimer:** Bleaching your hair is a chemical process that can cause damage, especially if done incorrectly. It’s crucial to understand the risks involved and to proceed with caution. If you have any doubts or concerns, it’s always best to consult a professional hairstylist.
## Is Platinum Blonde Right for You?
Before diving headfirst into the world of bleach, consider the following:
* **Your Hair’s Starting Color:** The darker your natural hair color, the more bleaching sessions it will take to achieve platinum, which increases the risk of damage. Dark brown or black hair might require multiple bleaching sessions spread several weeks apart.
* **Hair Condition:** Is your hair already damaged, dry, or brittle? Bleaching will exacerbate these issues. It’s vital to have healthy hair before starting the process. Consider doing protein and moisture treatments for several weeks beforehand.
* **Skin Tone:** Platinum blonde tends to look best on cool skin tones with pink or blue undertones. Warm skin tones may find platinum washes them out. Consider a root smudge or shadow root for a softer transition that complements warmer complexions.
* **Maintenance:** Platinum blonde requires significant upkeep. Regular touch-ups are needed to address root regrowth, and specialized products are essential to maintain the color and health of your hair.
* **Commitment:** Are you prepared to dedicate the time and effort required to maintain platinum hair? This isn’t a low-maintenance style.
## Preparing for Your Platinum Transformation
Preparation is key to minimizing damage and maximizing your chances of success. Here’s what you need to do before you even touch the bleach:
1. **Assess Your Hair’s Elasticity and Porosity:**
* **Elasticity:** Wet a strand of your hair and gently stretch it. If it stretches and returns to its original length without breaking, your hair has good elasticity. If it breaks easily, your hair is lacking elasticity and needs protein treatments.
* **Porosity:** Place a strand of your hair in a glass of water. If it sinks quickly, your hair is highly porous and absorbs moisture (and bleach) rapidly. If it floats for a while before sinking, your hair has low porosity. High porosity hair is more prone to damage during bleaching.
2. **Deep Condition Regularly:** Start deep conditioning your hair at least once a week (ideally twice) for several weeks leading up to the bleaching process. Use a hydrating mask rich in ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, or argan oil.
3. **Protein Treatments (If Necessary):** If your hair lacks elasticity, incorporate protein treatments into your routine. Look for products containing keratin, collagen, or amino acids. Be careful not to overdo protein treatments, as this can make hair brittle. Balance with moisturizing treatments.
4. **Avoid Heat Styling:** Minimize the use of heat styling tools (blow dryers, flat irons, curling irons) in the weeks leading up to bleaching. Heat can further damage and dry out your hair.
5. **Don’t Wash Your Hair 24-48 Hours Before Bleaching:** Natural oils on your scalp act as a barrier, protecting it from the harsh chemicals in bleach. Dirty hair is happy hair, at least in this instance.
6. **Strand Test:** This is arguably the MOST important step. Perform a strand test to see how your hair reacts to the bleach and to determine the processing time needed. Apply the bleach mixture to a small, hidden section of your hair (e.g., underneath your hair at the nape of your neck). Check the strand every 5-10 minutes to assess the level of lift and any signs of damage. This test will save you from potential disaster. Document your results carefully.
7. **Gather Your Supplies:**
* **Bleach Powder:** Choose a good quality bleach powder. Brands like Wella Blondor, L’Oreal Quick Blue, and Schwarzkopf BlondMe are popular choices. Consider ammonia-free options for slightly less damage.
* **Developer:** Developer comes in different volumes (10, 20, 30, 40). Lower volumes (10 or 20) are less damaging but provide less lift. Higher volumes (30 or 40) lift faster but are more damaging. Start with a lower volume (20 is usually a good starting point) and increase if necessary, based on your strand test. For fine or damaged hair, stick to 10 or 20 volume.
* **Toner:** Toner neutralizes unwanted yellow or orange tones after bleaching, creating that platinum blonde shade. Choose a toner based on the undertones you want to neutralize. Purple toner cancels out yellow tones, while blue toner cancels out orange tones. Wella T18 (White Lady) and T14 (Pale Ash Blonde) are popular choices.
* **Developer for Toner:** You’ll need a low-volume developer (10 volume) to mix with your toner.
* **Mixing Bowl and Applicator Brush:** Use a non-metallic bowl and an applicator brush designed for hair dye.
* **Gloves:** Protect your hands from the chemicals.
* **Old Towel or Cape:** Protect your clothing.
* **Hair Clips:** To section your hair.
* **Coconut Oil or Scalp Protector:** Apply coconut oil or a dedicated scalp protector to your scalp to create a barrier against irritation.
* **Timer:** To keep track of the processing time.
* **Shampoo and Conditioner for Blonde Hair:** Sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner specifically formulated for blonde hair will help maintain the color and health of your hair.
* **Purple Shampoo and Conditioner:** To combat brassiness between bleaching sessions.
* **Deep Conditioner:** For post-bleach treatment.
* **Bond Builder (Optional):** Products like Olaplex No. 1 & No. 2 or similar bond builders can help repair damage caused by bleaching. Add Olaplex No. 1 to your bleach mixture and use Olaplex No. 2 as a post-bleach treatment.
## The Bleaching Process: Step-by-Step
Now that you’ve prepared and gathered your supplies, it’s time to bleach your hair. Remember to work in a well-ventilated area.
1. **Protect Your Skin and Clothing:** Apply coconut oil or scalp protector to your hairline and ears. Put on your gloves and drape an old towel or cape over your shoulders.
2. **Section Your Hair:** Divide your hair into four equal sections: two in the front and two in the back. Secure each section with a hair clip. This ensures even application.
3. **Mix the Bleach:** Follow the instructions on your bleach powder and developer. The typical ratio is 1:1 or 1:2 (bleach powder to developer). Mix thoroughly until you achieve a smooth, creamy consistency. If using Olaplex No. 1, add it to the mixture according to the instructions.
4. **Apply the Bleach:** Start applying the bleach to the roots first. The roots process faster because they are closer to your scalp’s heat. Use the applicator brush to saturate the roots thoroughly, working in small sections. Avoid overlapping bleach onto previously bleached hair, as this can cause breakage. Use a mirror to ensure you are applying the bleach evenly to the back sections of your hair.
5. **Apply to the Mid-Lengths and Ends:** Once the roots are covered, apply the bleach to the mid-lengths and ends of your hair. Again, work in small sections and saturate thoroughly. If you are only doing a root touch-up, skip this step.
6. **Check for Even Saturation:** Ensure that all strands are completely covered with the bleach mixture. Use your gloved fingers to massage the bleach into your hair, ensuring even distribution.
7. **Process the Bleach:** This is where the strand test results come in handy. Based on your strand test, set a timer for the appropriate processing time. Check your hair every 5-10 minutes to monitor the lift and any signs of damage. The maximum processing time is typically 50 minutes, but you may need less time depending on your hair’s reaction. DO NOT exceed the recommended time.
8. **Rinse the Bleach:** Once the processing time is up and your hair has reached a pale yellow shade (the color of the inside of a banana peel is ideal), rinse the bleach out thoroughly with cool water. Make sure all traces of bleach are removed.
9. **Shampoo (Optional but Recommended):** Gently shampoo your hair with a sulfate-free shampoo to remove any remaining bleach residue. Be gentle to avoid causing any further damage.
10. **Apply Olaplex No. 2 (or similar bond builder):** If you are using Olaplex, apply Olaplex No. 2 (or the second step of your chosen bond builder) to your hair and leave it on for at least 20 minutes. This helps to repair and strengthen the hair bonds that were broken during the bleaching process.
11. **Rinse Again:** Rinse the Olaplex No. 2 (or bond builder) out thoroughly with cool water.
12. **Assess Your Hair’s Color:** After rinsing, assess the color of your hair. It should be a pale yellow. If it’s still too orange or yellow, you may need another bleaching session (wait at least two weeks before bleaching again and focus on protein and moisture treatments). If it’s the right shade of pale yellow, you can proceed to toning.
## Toning Your Hair for Platinum Perfection
Toning is essential for achieving that icy platinum blonde shade. It neutralizes the remaining yellow or orange tones in your hair.
1. **Mix the Toner:** Follow the instructions on your toner and developer. The typical ratio is 1:2 (toner to 10 volume developer). Mix thoroughly until you achieve a smooth, creamy consistency.
2. **Apply the Toner:** Apply the toner to your damp hair, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends. Ensure that all strands are completely covered.
3. **Process the Toner:** Follow the instructions on your toner for the processing time. Typically, toner is processed for 10-20 minutes. Monitor your hair closely to avoid over-toning, which can result in a purple or grey tint.
4. **Rinse the Toner:** Rinse the toner out thoroughly with cool water.
5. **Condition Your Hair:** Apply a deep conditioner to your hair and leave it on for at least 10 minutes. This will help to restore moisture and hydration.
6. **Rinse Again:** Rinse the deep conditioner out thoroughly with cool water.
7. **Dry and Style:** Gently towel-dry your hair and allow it to air dry as much as possible. If you need to use a blow dryer, use a low heat setting and apply a heat protectant spray. Style your hair as desired.
## Post-Bleach Care: Maintaining Your Platinum Locks
Maintaining platinum blonde hair requires consistent care and attention. Here are some tips for keeping your hair healthy and vibrant:
* **Use Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Conditioner:** Sulfate-free products are gentler on your hair and won’t strip away the color.
* **Use Purple Shampoo and Conditioner Regularly:** Purple shampoo and conditioner help to neutralize brassy tones and keep your platinum blonde shade looking fresh. Use them once or twice a week, or as needed.
* **Deep Condition Regularly:** Continue deep conditioning your hair at least once a week to restore moisture and prevent breakage.
* **Avoid Heat Styling:** Minimize the use of heat styling tools as much as possible. When you do use heat, always apply a heat protectant spray.
* **Protect Your Hair from the Sun:** The sun can fade and damage bleached hair. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when spending time outdoors.
* **Get Regular Trims:** Trim your hair every 6-8 weeks to remove split ends and prevent breakage.
* **Minimize Washing:** Washing your hair too frequently can dry it out. Try to wash your hair only 2-3 times a week.
* **Use a Leave-In Conditioner:** Apply a leave-in conditioner to damp hair after washing to provide extra moisture and protection.
* **Consider a Silk or Satin Pillowcase:** These materials are gentler on your hair than cotton and can help prevent breakage.
* **Protein Treatments:** If your hair feels weak or brittle, incorporate protein treatments into your routine. However, be careful not to overdo it, as too much protein can make hair stiff.
* **Stay Hydrated:** Drinking plenty of water is essential for overall health, including hair health.
## Troubleshooting Common Bleaching Problems
* **Brassy Hair:** If your hair is still brassy after toning, you may need to use a stronger toner or tone your hair again. You can also use purple shampoo and conditioner more frequently.
* **Uneven Bleaching:** If your hair is bleached unevenly, you may need to spot-treat the darker areas with bleach. Be very careful not to overlap the bleach onto previously bleached hair.
* **Dry and Damaged Hair:** If your hair is dry and damaged after bleaching, focus on moisturizing treatments. Use deep conditioners, hair oils, and leave-in conditioners regularly. Consider getting a trim to remove split ends.
* **Hair Breakage:** If your hair is breaking after bleaching, it is likely over-processed. Stop bleaching immediately and focus on repairing the damage. Use protein treatments, deep conditioners, and avoid heat styling.
* **Scalp Irritation:** If you experience scalp irritation during or after bleaching, rinse your scalp thoroughly with cool water. Apply a soothing scalp treatment, such as aloe vera gel or coconut oil.
## When to Seek Professional Help
While it’s possible to bleach your hair platinum blonde at home, it’s not always the best option. If you have any of the following, consider consulting a professional hairstylist:
* **Dark Hair:** If you have dark hair (dark brown or black), it’s best to have a professional bleach your hair. Achieving platinum blonde from a dark base requires multiple bleaching sessions, which can be difficult and damaging to do at home.
* **Damaged Hair:** If your hair is already damaged, it’s best to consult a professional before bleaching. They can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the best course of action.
* **Previous Color Treatments:** If you have previously colored your hair with box dye or permanent hair color, it’s best to consult a professional. These types of color can react unpredictably with bleach.
* **Unsure About the Process:** If you are unsure about any aspect of the bleaching process, it’s best to consult a professional. They can answer your questions and guide you through the process.
## Conclusion
Achieving platinum blonde hair at home is a challenging but rewarding process. By following these steps and taking precautions, you can minimize damage and achieve the platinum perfection you desire. Remember to be patient, take your time, and prioritize the health of your hair. Good luck on your platinum journey!
