Bye-Bye Brass: A Comprehensive Guide to Fixing Brassy Hair Color

Ah, the dreaded brass! It’s a common hair color woe that plagues many of us, often appearing as those unwanted yellow, orange, or reddish tones that creep into our blonde, brown, or even highlighted locks. If you’ve found yourself staring into the mirror, wondering why your hair has taken on a metallic, warm hue, you’re not alone. Brassiness can be frustrating, but thankfully, it’s not a permanent sentence. This comprehensive guide will equip you with the knowledge and practical steps to banish brass and restore your hair to its desired cool or neutral tone. We’ll explore the causes of brassiness, how to prevent it, and, most importantly, how to fix it effectively. Let’s dive in!

Understanding the Enemy: What Causes Brassy Hair?

Before we jump into solutions, it’s crucial to understand what causes brassiness in the first place. It’s often a result of several factors, and knowing these culprits will help you prevent future occurrences. Here are the primary reasons why your hair might be turning brassy:

• Natural Underlying Pigment: Our natural hair color contains warm pigments, usually red, orange, or yellow. When you lighten your hair (whether with bleach or dye), these warm pigments are revealed. Darker hair colors have more of these underlying warm tones. The lightening process doesn’t always completely neutralize these warm pigments, especially if your hair wasn’t lifted to the proper level during the coloring process.
• Oxidation: Just like a cut apple turns brown, hair dye can oxidize over time when exposed to air, leading to brassiness. This is more pronounced with semi-permanent or demi-permanent colors which tend to fade faster and leave behind the undertones. The color molecules within the hair can gradually break down and reveal warmer tones that were originally masked.
• Sun Exposure: UV rays from the sun can damage hair and break down hair dye molecules, leading to oxidation and causing brassy tones to surface. Prolonged sun exposure can be especially detrimental to colored hair, causing the artificial pigments to fade faster and reveal warmer undertones.
• Hard Water: Hard water contains minerals like calcium and magnesium. These minerals can build up on the hair, interacting with the hair dye and causing brassy tones. Over time, these mineral deposits can alter the hair color, making it look dull and brassy, especially in lighter hair shades.
• Chlorine: Chlorine, often found in swimming pools, can strip hair of its natural oils and also interact with hair dye, contributing to brassiness. It can also cause dryness and damage to the hair shaft.
• Incorrect Hair Color Choice: Choosing the wrong shade during the initial coloring process, or using a shade that is too light for your base color, can result in brassiness. If the chosen color doesn’t sufficiently counteract the natural underlying warm pigments, brassiness is likely to appear after the initial color fades a bit.
• Fading Dye: Hair dye, especially red and brunette shades, naturally fades over time, which can lead to brassy undertones appearing. The vibrant pigments often fade more quickly than the underlying warm tones, resulting in brassiness.
• Products: Some hair products, particularly those containing sulfates or high alcohol content, can strip hair of its color and contribute to brassiness. Avoid products with harsh ingredients that can disrupt the color molecules in your hair.

Step-by-Step Guide to Fixing Brassy Hair Color

Now that we’ve identified the culprits, let’s explore how to effectively tackle brassy hair. The approach you take will depend on the severity of the brassiness, your hair color, and your personal preference. Here’s a detailed step-by-step guide to help you conquer those unwelcome warm tones:

Step 1: Assess the Brassiness

Before starting, take a good look at your hair in natural light. Identify how intense the brassiness is (is it a light yellow, a more pronounced orange, or even red?). Determine the areas where it’s most noticeable (all over, just at the roots, on the ends, etc.). This will guide you in choosing the most appropriate solution. If the brassiness is mild, a toning shampoo might suffice. If it’s severe, you may need to consider a more potent treatment. Also take into consideration your hair type and current health.

Step 2: Choose Your Weapons: Toning Products

The key to fixing brassiness is using products with violet or blue pigments, which are the opposite colors on the color wheel from yellow and orange respectively. These pigments effectively neutralize unwanted warm tones. Here are the primary toning products you can utilize:

a. Purple Shampoo and Conditioner

Purple shampoo and conditioner are the go-to for tackling mild to moderate brassiness in blonde, gray, and light brown hair. These products contain violet pigments that counteract yellow tones. Here’s how to use them correctly:

1. Wet Your Hair: Thoroughly wet your hair as you normally would for shampooing.
2. Apply Purple Shampoo: Apply a generous amount of purple shampoo, focusing on the areas where brassiness is most prominent. Work it into a lather, making sure to distribute it evenly.
3. Wait the Recommended Time: Leave the purple shampoo in for the recommended time, which varies depending on the product (usually between 2-5 minutes for mild toning or up to 10 minutes for more intense toning, but always follow the manufacturer’s instructions). Do not leave it on for extended periods, as this can result in a lavender tint, especially in very light blonde hair.
4. Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse the shampoo out completely with cool water.
5. Apply Purple Conditioner: Follow up with a purple conditioner, focusing on mid-lengths and ends. Leave it in for the recommended time on the product packaging. Usually, it’s around 2-5 minutes. This will further neutralize any remaining yellow tones and add moisture back to the hair.
6. Rinse Again: Rinse the conditioner completely with cool water.
7. Repeat as Needed: Depending on the severity of your brassiness, use purple shampoo and conditioner 1-2 times per week, or as directed by the product’s instructions. Overuse can lead to a purple or lavender tint, especially on very light blonde hair. If that happens, reduce the frequency of use.

b. Blue Shampoo and Conditioner

Blue shampoo and conditioner are best for tackling orange and reddish tones in brunette and dark blonde hair. They contain blue pigments that counteract orange hues. The usage is very similar to purple products:

1. Wet Your Hair: Thoroughly wet your hair as you normally would for shampooing.
2. Apply Blue Shampoo: Apply a generous amount of blue shampoo, focusing on the areas where orange or red tones are most apparent. Lather thoroughly and evenly.
3. Wait the Recommended Time: Leave the blue shampoo in for the recommended time, usually between 3-7 minutes, but check your specific product’s instructions for best results.
4. Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse the shampoo out completely with cool water.
5. Apply Blue Conditioner: Follow up with a blue conditioner, concentrating on the mid-lengths and ends. Leave it in for the recommended time on the product packaging, typically around 2-5 minutes. This helps further neutralize orange and red tones and moisturizes the hair.
6. Rinse Again: Rinse the conditioner completely with cool water.
7. Repeat as Needed: Use blue shampoo and conditioner 1-2 times per week, or as recommended by the product’s guidelines. As with purple shampoo, overuse can lead to unwanted blue or green tint, especially on light hair.

c. Toning Masks

Toning masks are a more intense option for fighting brass. They are similar to conditioners but have a higher concentration of violet or blue pigments. This makes them ideal for combating moderate to severe brassiness. Usage is similar to a deep conditioner:

1. Wash Hair with Regular Shampoo: Start by washing your hair with a normal shampoo. Rinse thoroughly.
2. Apply Toning Mask: Towel-dry your hair so it’s damp but not dripping wet. Apply the toning mask liberally to your hair, focusing on brassy areas.
3. Distribute Evenly: Comb through the mask to ensure it’s evenly distributed.
4. Leave It On: Leave the mask in for the recommended time, usually between 5-20 minutes, or as specified by the product instructions. Some masks may have longer processing times, so always read the product label.
5. Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse the mask out completely with cool water.
6. Follow with Conditioner: Follow up with a light conditioner if needed, although many toning masks provide sufficient conditioning.
7. Use as needed: Use the toning mask as needed, typically once a week, or every other week, depending on the severity of your brassiness and the mask’s instructions.

d. Hair Toner

For more significant brassiness, you might need to use a hair toner. Toners typically come in liquid or cream form and contain a higher concentration of pigments than shampoos or masks. These products are designed to correct the shade of your hair, not just neutralize unwanted tones. Applying a toner is very similar to dyeing your hair, but it focuses on adjusting the existing color rather than dramatically changing it. This method is best used if you have a basic understanding of the hair coloring process or if you seek professional advice.

1. Choose the Right Toner: Choose a toner that aligns with your hair’s current color and the specific brassy undertones you’re trying to correct. Purple toners help correct yellow brassiness, while blue toners neutralize orange and red tones. Consult a professional if you’re unsure which shade to use.
2. Mix the Toner: Mix the toner with developer according to the product instructions. This is a crucial step. Using the wrong developer can damage your hair or prevent the toner from working properly.
3. Apply to Clean, Dry Hair: Apply the toner to clean, dry hair, focusing on brassy areas. You can use an applicator brush and section your hair for even application.
4. Leave On for Recommended Time: Allow the toner to process for the recommended time, typically 10-20 minutes, depending on the product instructions. Monitor your hair during processing, as the processing time can vary.
5. Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse the toner out completely with cool water.
6. Shampoo and Condition: Shampoo your hair lightly using a sulfate-free shampoo designed for color-treated hair. Follow up with a conditioner.

Important Note: Toning can be tricky. If you are unsure about using hair toner, consider consulting a professional stylist to avoid any adverse results.

Step 3: Deep Condition

Toning products, especially toners themselves, can sometimes be drying. It’s vital to replenish the moisture in your hair after using them. Use a deep conditioner or hair mask to rehydrate and nourish your hair, leaving it feeling soft and healthy. Apply after using a toning product and let it set for the recommended time, as per product instructions, then rinse. Deep conditioning should be a part of your routine whether you are battling brassiness or not. Healthy hair will always look better with or without color.

Step 4: Maintain Your Tone

Once you’ve achieved your desired tone, it’s crucial to maintain it. Here are some helpful tips:

• Use Toning Products Regularly: Incorporate purple or blue shampoo and conditioner into your routine 1-2 times per week, depending on your needs, to keep brassiness at bay.
• Use Color-Safe Products: Choose shampoos, conditioners, and styling products specifically designed for color-treated hair. These are typically sulfate-free and gentle on your color.
• Limit Heat Styling: Excessive heat styling can cause your color to fade and lead to brassiness. Use heat protectant sprays when using heat tools. Consider air-drying your hair sometimes, rather than heat styling it on a daily basis.
• Protect from the Sun: Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when spending time outdoors in the sun.
• Use a Water Filter: Install a showerhead water filter to remove minerals and chlorine that can contribute to brassiness.
• Rinse Hair After Swimming: Always rinse your hair thoroughly after swimming in chlorine pools.
• Touch up roots regularly: If brassiness is reoccurring at the roots then regular touch ups, using a toner or semi/demi permanent color, might be necessary. This can help maintain your overall hair color and keep brassy tones at bay.

Natural Remedies

While professional products are effective, some natural remedies can help reduce brassiness. It is important to know that these remedies are not as potent and effective as toning products, and might require several applications to achieve any results.

• Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse: A diluted apple cider vinegar rinse can help clarify hair and remove buildup that might contribute to brassiness. Mix one part apple cider vinegar with two parts water and use as a final rinse after shampooing.
• Lemon Juice: Lemon juice can lighten hair and may help with slight yellowing. However, use it sparingly as it can be drying. Mix lemon juice with water, apply to your hair, and leave it on for about 30 minutes before rinsing. Be aware that lemon juice can actually make the brassiness more apparent in some cases if not used carefully.
• Chamomile Tea Rinse: Brew a strong chamomile tea, let it cool, and use it as a final rinse. This can help brighten blonde hair and reduce yellowness.

Important Note: Natural remedies are often not as effective and require a few applications before seeing results, and may not be suitable for severe brassiness or darker hair colors. Always do a strand test before applying any natural remedy to your entire hair to avoid any unwanted results.

When to Seek Professional Help

Sometimes, home remedies and over-the-counter products aren’t enough to combat severe brassiness. It’s often best to seek a professional stylist if:

• Your brassiness is severe: If you have very strong orange or red tones that are not being corrected by at-home toning.
• You’re unsure which product to use: If you’re confused about selecting the right toner or other toning products for your hair.
• Your hair is damaged: If your hair is already dry or damaged, using the wrong products or technique could cause further harm.
• You have a complex hair color: If you have highlights, balayage, or other complex coloring techniques, a professional can ensure even toning and color correction.
• You want to dramatically change your color: If you’re seeking a significant color correction, a professional stylist will have the experience and skills to make the necessary changes effectively.

The Bottom Line

Brassiness can be frustrating, but with the right knowledge and tools, it’s definitely manageable. By understanding the causes of brassiness, using the appropriate toning products, and practicing good hair care, you can achieve and maintain your desired hair color. Remember that patience is key, and consistency in your hair care routine will yield the best results. Whether you opt for professional treatments or home remedies, don’t let brassy tones dull your shine!