Crafting History: A Comprehensive Guide to Making Beautiful Dorset Buttons

Dorset buttons, with their charming and intricate designs, are more than just simple fastenings. They are a tangible link to the past, a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of craftspeople from Dorset, England. These handcrafted beauties, once a vital part of the local economy, are now enjoyed as exquisite pieces of fiber art. This detailed guide will walk you through the process of creating your own Dorset buttons, from the basic ‘singletons’ to more complex variations, allowing you to connect with this rich heritage and create something truly special.

A Glimpse into the History of Dorset Buttons

Before we dive into the making, let’s appreciate the history behind these little wonders. Dorset buttons emerged in the 17th century as a cottage industry, providing much-needed income for families in the Dorset region. Made from sheep horn or wood rings, covered with locally spun linen thread, they were functional, beautiful, and readily available. The industry flourished until the rise of mass-produced buttons in the mid-19th century, eventually fading into obscurity. However, in recent decades, there’s been a wonderful revival of interest, and Dorset buttons are once again being celebrated for their unique handcrafted appeal.

Essential Materials and Tools

Before you begin your button-making journey, gather the following materials and tools:

• Rings: Traditionally, these were made of horn or wood. Today, you can find plastic, metal, or even wooden rings readily available in craft stores or online. Choose a size appropriate for your project. Starting with rings around 1-2cm in diameter is recommended for beginners. You can use rings of varying sizes for different button designs.
• Thread: Linen thread was the traditional choice, but embroidery floss, crochet cotton, or even fine yarn can be used. Linen offers a beautiful texture, while embroidery floss allows for a wider range of colors. Consider the thickness of the thread: a thicker thread will create a more textured button, while a thinner thread will result in a more delicate look. Number 5 or 8 pearl cotton is a good choice for beginners.
• Sharp Sewing Needle: Choose a needle with an eye that is large enough to easily thread your chosen material. A tapestry needle with a blunt tip might be helpful for some steps as well.
• Small Scissors: For trimming threads neatly.
• Optional: A needle threader can be helpful, especially when working with fine threads. You might also consider having a thimble on hand for pushing the needle through denser layers of thread.

The Core Process: Creating a Basic Singleton Dorset Button

The simplest Dorset button, known as a singleton, forms the foundation for all other designs. Here’s how to make it:

1. Preparing the Ring: Begin by knotting your chosen thread securely around the ring. Leave a short tail (about 5cm) that you’ll weave in later. This knot should be positioned inside the circumference of the ring.
2. Whip Stitching the Ring: Now, working in a continuous direction, wrap your thread around the ring, making a series of closely spaced stitches. Each wrap should sit snugly against the previous one, completely covering the ring’s surface. These stitches are essentially a ‘whip stitch,’ creating a foundation for the button’s design. Be sure to pull each stitch taught and keep them from overlapping. Avoid pulling the thread so tight it bends the ring shape. Continue until the entire ring is evenly covered.
3. Securing the Foundation: Once the ring is fully covered, take the thread around the inside of the ring and pass it under a couple of the stitches on the reverse of the work, pull tight, and repeat. This will create an anchor for the next stage of stitching. This ensures the base remains firm.
4. Creating the Spokes: Now it’s time to add the “spokes” that form the basis of the button’s design. Bring the needle up at the edge of the ring, working from the back to front, creating a loop. Then, bring it over to the opposite side and thread it through the foundation ring on that side, bringing it back to the center. The loop now looks like a spoke on a wheel. Repeat this, working your way around the ring and ensuring an even number of spokes; traditionally, an odd number was seen to be unlucky. An even number provides an equal spacing for subsequent weaving. The number of spokes depends on the size of your ring and the look you desire. For smaller rings, 4, 6, or 8 are good starting points; larger rings will benefit from 10 or 12. When spacing these, try to visualise a pie chart and ensure each ‘slice’ is the same size. These loops should be reasonably taut, but not overly tight, to prevent warping.
5. Weaving the Wheel: Once the spokes are in place, begin weaving. Bring your needle up through the center point of all the spokes, and then carefully move your needle in a figure of eight pattern, alternating over and under the spokes. You should be weaving from the center out, in a circular fashion. Use your needle to keep the weaving even and tight. The weave is what holds the spokes and creates the ‘wheel’ in the center of the button. It’s best to gradually work around the spokes, ensuring that the tension is consistent and the weave is even. You will see a spiral beginning to form as you weave. Continue this process until you reach a point roughly halfway down the length of the spokes. It is generally thought better to do this tightly and with good tension, to make the button long-lasting.
6. Finishing the Wheel: To finish the button, the final round of weaving should connect back to the outer ring, where the spokes join the ring itself. Once you reach this point, thread the needle through the back of the button, and under some of the stitches. Pull firmly and cut the thread. Tuck the loose end under existing threads so that it’s invisible and secure. Be sure to cut the thread close to the fabric so there is no loose end to catch on clothing.
7. Weaving in Loose Ends: Finally, take the original starting thread tail, and weave it around the back of the button. When secure, cut this thread short. With both threads finished, your first singleton Dorset button is complete.

Expanding Your Skills: Variations and More Complex Designs

Once you’ve mastered the singleton, you can explore a wide range of variations. Here are a few to try:

The ‘Cartwheel’ Button

This button is characterized by a central ring surrounded by spokes that extend to a larger outer ring. Here’s a simplified process:

1. Create a smaller central singleton button as described above.
2. Attach a second, larger ring to the spokes of the central button, forming an outer rim.
3. Cover the outer rim with whip stitching, much like you did for the base of the central button.
4. Weave spokes between the inner and outer rings.
5. Fill the space between the rings with a similar weaving pattern as on a singleton button, creating a cartwheel effect.

The ‘Bird’s Eye’ Button

This is a variant of the singleton with a distinctive textured center. Instead of a straight spoke weave, you can achieve this effect by:

1. After creating the spokes, weave the center as for the singleton. However, in this variant, you will ‘pinch’ some of the threads together to make them look like petals.
2. Continue weaving the centre outwards, pinching the threads together, until the button center is full.
3. After each circle of weaving, gently tug the thread in the centre, to create a more pronounced ‘bird’s eye’.

The ‘Old Dorset Crosswheel’ Button

This button is made by weaving a cross shape into the center. It is a much more complex design, so is not recommended for beginners. Here’s a simplified process:

1. Create a foundation ring.
2. Create a series of spokes across the centre of the ring, intersecting in the middle, creating a cross. Ensure the spokes are in two halves – 1 set going from top to bottom, and one going from left to right.
3. Weave a cross shape in the center by going over and under the ‘spokes’ and ensuring the weave is dense in the centre.
4. Continue to weave outwards from the center, following the same over and under pattern.
5. When the center is full, secure the threads and complete the button as for the singleton.

Tips for Success

• Start Simple: Begin with the singleton button to get a feel for the techniques before moving on to more complex designs.
• Consistent Tension: Maintain consistent tension on your thread to prevent the button from becoming misshapen. Don’t pull too hard!
• Neatness Counts: Focus on creating neat, even stitches for a polished finish.
• Experiment with Colors: Use different thread colors to create unique and personalized buttons.
• Practice Patience: Dorset button making is a slow and meditative craft. Be patient with yourself, and enjoy the process.
• Use the Right Size Thread and Needle: The thicker the thread, the thicker the needle needs to be. Use an appropriate size needle for your thread to avoid damage to the thread and your work.
• Double Check the Number of Spokes: Ensure you are using an even number of spokes – traditionally, an odd number is considered bad luck. An even number ensures that weaving the wheel is much easier.
• Weave Carefully: When weaving the wheel, it is important to ensure that the threads are pulled taut, and do not overlap unnecessarily. Overlapping threads can make the button uneven and more difficult to sew onto your garments.
• Do Not Rush: Dorset buttons are a labour of love. Rushing this craft can result in uneven or flawed buttons. Take your time and enjoy the process!

Incorporating Dorset Buttons into Your Projects

Dorset buttons are incredibly versatile and can be used in a variety of projects:

• Garment Closures: Use them as traditional closures on coats, sweaters, and dresses. They add a unique handmade touch.
• Decorative Accents: Sew them onto bags, hats, and scarves for a pop of color and texture.
• Jewelry: Create stunning necklaces, earrings, and brooches using Dorset buttons as the focal point.
• Home Décor: Incorporate them into cushions, wall hangings, and other decorative items for a touch of folk charm.
• Gift Embellishments: Use small Dorset buttons as charming decorations on gift tags and wrapping.
• Scrapbooking and Papercrafts: Add them as unique embellishments to scrapbook pages and cards.

Conclusion

Making Dorset buttons is a wonderful way to connect with a rich history and create something truly beautiful and handmade. Whether you’re a seasoned crafter or a complete beginner, the process is accessible and rewarding. With practice and patience, you’ll be able to create your own collection of unique Dorset buttons, each one a small piece of handcrafted art. So, gather your materials, settle in, and embark on this fascinating journey into the world of Dorset button making. Happy crafting!

This article provides a thorough overview of the art of Dorset button making. As you explore this craft, remember that practice and experimentation are key. Don’t be afraid to try different thread types, color combinations, and designs to develop your own unique style. Enjoy the process of creating these timeless little treasures!