DIY Bleach Dye: A Comprehensive Guide to Bleaching and Dyeing Your Hair at Home
Bleach dyeing your hair at home can seem daunting, but with the right preparation, knowledge, and precautions, it can be a fun and rewarding way to express your personal style. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step of the process, from preparing your hair to choosing the right products, bleaching safely, and finally, dyeing your hair to achieve your desired look. Whether you’re aiming for a subtle balayage or a bold, vibrant color, this guide will provide you with the information you need to achieve salon-worthy results at home.
Is Bleach Dyeing Right for You?
Before diving into the process, it’s crucial to assess whether bleach dyeing is the right choice for your hair. Bleach is a powerful chemical that can cause significant damage if used incorrectly. Consider the following factors:
* **Hair Health:** Is your hair already damaged from previous treatments like perms, relaxers, or frequent heat styling? If so, bleaching could further weaken it and lead to breakage. It’s best to wait until your hair is healthier before attempting to bleach it.
* **Hair Color:** Darker hair will require more bleaching sessions to achieve a lighter base, which can increase the risk of damage. If you have very dark hair and want to go significantly lighter (e.g., from black to platinum blonde), consider consulting a professional stylist.
* **Hair Type:** Fine or fragile hair is more susceptible to damage from bleaching than thick, coarse hair. Adjust the developer volume and processing time accordingly.
* **Commitment:** Bleach dyeing requires ongoing maintenance, including regular touch-ups and deep conditioning treatments. Are you prepared to commit to this routine?
If you’re unsure whether bleach dyeing is suitable for your hair, it’s always best to consult with a professional stylist for personalized advice.
Gathering Your Supplies
Having all the necessary supplies on hand before you begin is essential for a smooth and successful bleach dyeing experience. Here’s a comprehensive list:
* **Bleach Powder:** Choose a bleach powder specifically designed for hair. Brands like L’Oreal Quick Blue, Wella Blondor, and Manic Panic Flash Lightning are popular choices.
* **Developer:** Developer comes in different volumes (10, 20, 30, and 40). The volume indicates the strength of the hydrogen peroxide.
* **10 Volume:** Lifts 1 level, least damaging, used for depositing color or subtle lightening.
* **20 Volume:** Lifts 1-2 levels, good for gentle lightening and toning.
* **30 Volume:** Lifts 2-3 levels, commonly used for bleaching hair.
* **40 Volume:** Lifts 3-4 levels, most damaging, use with extreme caution and only on healthy hair.
* **Choosing the Right Volume:** Start with a lower volume (20 or 30) if you’re unsure or if your hair is already damaged. Use 40 volume only if your hair is strong and you need significant lightening. Remember, it’s always better to do multiple sessions with a lower volume than to risk severe damage with a higher volume. For previously dyed hair, you typically will use 20 volume to get past the dye without extreme lift. 10 volume is often used for toners.
* **Mixing Bowl and Applicator Brush:** Use a non-metallic bowl and brush to mix and apply the bleach. Metal can react with the chemicals and affect the results.
* **Gloves:** Protect your hands from the harsh chemicals by wearing gloves throughout the entire process. Nitrile or vinyl gloves are recommended.
* **Old Towels:** Bleach can stain, so use old towels that you don’t mind getting ruined.
* **Petroleum Jelly or Barrier Cream:** Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly or barrier cream to your hairline and ears to protect your skin from irritation.
* **Hair Clips:** Use hair clips to section your hair for easier application.
* **Timer:** Keep track of the processing time to avoid over-processing.
* **Purple Shampoo and Conditioner:** Use purple shampoo and conditioner after bleaching to neutralize brassy tones and keep your blonde looking vibrant. Alternatively, you can use a toner.
* **Deep Conditioner:** Bleaching can dry out your hair, so use a deep conditioner to restore moisture and prevent breakage.
* **Hair Color (if applicable):** Choose a hair color that is appropriate for your desired results. Semi-permanent, Demi-permanent, and permanent are all options depending on the longevity of the color you’d like. It’s important to choose a color safe for use on bleached hair.
* **Toner (Optional):** If you want to neutralize unwanted yellow or orange tones after bleaching but before dyeing, use a toner. Toners come in various shades to correct specific color issues.
* **Scale (Optional):** Some bleaching kits require a precise measurement of bleach to developer. Using a scale is recommended.
Preparing Your Hair
Proper preparation is crucial for minimizing damage and achieving even results. Follow these steps:
1. **Strand Test:** Before bleaching your entire head, perform a strand test to see how your hair reacts to the bleach and to determine the appropriate processing time. Apply the bleach mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of hair (e.g., underneath your hair at the nape of your neck). Check the strand every 10 minutes until you achieve the desired level of lightness. Note the total processing time and use it as a guide for bleaching the rest of your hair.
2. **Don’t Wash Your Hair:** Avoid washing your hair for 24-48 hours before bleaching. Natural oils act as a protective barrier and can help minimize damage.
3. **Detangle Your Hair:** Gently detangle your hair with a wide-tooth comb to remove any knots or tangles. This will ensure even application of the bleach.
4. **Section Your Hair:** Divide your hair into four sections (top, bottom, left, and right) using hair clips. This will make the application process more manageable.
5. **Protect Your Skin:** Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly or barrier cream to your hairline and ears to protect your skin from irritation.
Mixing the Bleach
Follow the instructions on your bleach powder and developer packaging carefully. The ratio of bleach powder to developer can vary depending on the brand and the desired level of lift. Here’s a general guideline:
* **For a standard bleach mixture:** Use a 1:2 ratio of bleach powder to developer (e.g., 1 scoop of bleach powder to 2 scoops of developer). Start with this ratio and adjust as needed based on your strand test results.
* **Mixing Instructions:**
1. In a non-metallic bowl, combine the bleach powder and developer.
2. Use the applicator brush to mix the ingredients thoroughly until you achieve a smooth, creamy consistency. Avoid lumps, as they can result in uneven bleaching.
3. The mixture should not be too runny or too thick. If it’s too runny, it will drip and be difficult to control. If it’s too thick, it will be difficult to apply evenly.
Applying the Bleach
Apply the bleach mixture to your hair in small, even sections, starting at the roots (if you’re doing a full head bleach) or at the darkest areas (if you’re doing highlights or balayage). Work quickly and efficiently to ensure that all sections are processed evenly.
1. **Root Application (Full Head Bleach):** If you’re bleaching your entire head, start by applying the bleach mixture to your roots. The roots process faster than the rest of your hair because they are closer to your scalp’s heat. Apply the bleach about ½ inch from your scalp to allow heat to process it.
2. **Mid-lengths and Ends:** Once the roots are saturated, apply the bleach mixture to the mid-lengths and ends of your hair. Make sure to saturate each strand thoroughly.
3. **Highlights/Balayage:** If you’re doing highlights or balayage, use the applicator brush or foil to apply the bleach mixture to the desired sections of hair. Be precise and careful to avoid getting bleach on the surrounding hair.
4. **Saturation:** Ensure that all strands are fully saturated with the bleach mixture. This is crucial for achieving even results.
5. **Check for Unevenness:** As you apply the bleach, periodically check for any unevenness or missed spots. Correct these areas immediately to prevent patchiness.
Processing Time
The processing time will vary depending on your hair color, hair type, and the desired level of lift. Refer to your strand test results for guidance. Here are some general guidelines:
* **Check Frequently:** Check your hair every 10-15 minutes to assess the level of lift. Gently wipe away a small section of bleach with a damp cloth to see how your hair is progressing.
* **Never Exceed the Maximum Time:** Do not exceed the maximum processing time recommended on the bleach powder packaging. Over-processing can cause severe damage and breakage.
* **Rinse Immediately if Necessary:** If your hair starts to feel hot, brittle, or excessively damaged, rinse the bleach out immediately, regardless of the processing time.
Rinsing and Toning
Once you’ve achieved the desired level of lift, it’s time to rinse the bleach out of your hair. Follow these steps:
1. **Rinse Thoroughly:** Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until all traces of bleach are removed. Make sure to get all the bleach out of your hair.
2. **Shampoo (Optional):** Use a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo to remove any remaining residue. Some people prefer to skip this step to avoid further drying out the hair.
3. **Toning (Optional):** If you want to neutralize unwanted yellow or orange tones, apply a toner according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Choose a toner that is appropriate for your hair color and the specific tones you want to correct.
4. **Rinse Again:** Rinse your hair thoroughly after toning.
Deep Conditioning
Bleaching can strip your hair of its natural oils, leaving it dry and brittle. A deep conditioning treatment is essential for restoring moisture and preventing breakage. Follow these steps:
1. **Apply Deep Conditioner:** Apply a generous amount of deep conditioner to your hair, focusing on the ends.
2. **Cover Your Hair:** Cover your hair with a shower cap or wrap it in a warm towel.
3. **Leave On for the Recommended Time:** Leave the deep conditioner on for the amount of time recommended on the packaging (typically 10-30 minutes).
4. **Rinse Thoroughly:** Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water.
Dyeing Your Hair (Optional)
If you want to dye your hair a different color after bleaching, follow these steps:
1. **Dry Your Hair:** Allow your hair to dry completely before applying the dye. Damp hair can prevent the dye from adhering properly.
2. **Apply the Dye:** Apply the dye according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Use gloves and an applicator brush for even application.
3. **Process the Dye:** Process the dye for the recommended amount of time. Use a timer to avoid over-processing.
4. **Rinse Thoroughly:** Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear.
5. **Condition:** Apply a conditioner to your hair to seal in the color and add moisture.
Aftercare and Maintenance
Proper aftercare is crucial for maintaining the health and vibrancy of your bleached and dyed hair. Follow these tips:
* **Use Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Conditioner:** Sulfate-free products are gentler on your hair and won’t strip away the color.
* **Limit Heat Styling:** Excessive heat can damage your hair, so try to minimize the use of heat styling tools like blow dryers, straighteners, and curling irons.
* **Use Heat Protectant:** If you do use heat styling tools, always apply a heat protectant spray to shield your hair from damage.
* **Deep Condition Regularly:** Deep condition your hair at least once a week to restore moisture and prevent breakage.
* **Trim Split Ends:** Get regular trims to remove split ends and keep your hair looking healthy.
* **Protect Your Hair from the Sun:** The sun can fade your hair color and damage your hair, so wear a hat or use a UV protectant spray when spending time outdoors.
* **Touch-Ups:** Regularly touch up your roots or refresh your color as needed to maintain your desired look.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even with careful preparation, you may encounter some common problems during the bleach dyeing process. Here are some solutions:
* **Uneven Bleaching:** If your hair is unevenly bleached, you may need to do another bleaching session to even out the color. Be careful not to over-process your hair.
* **Brassy Tones:** If your hair has brassy tones (yellow or orange), use a toner to neutralize them.
* **Dry and Brittle Hair:** Bleaching can dry out your hair, so use a deep conditioner regularly to restore moisture.
* **Hair Breakage:** If your hair is breaking, stop bleaching immediately and focus on repairing the damage. Use protein treatments and avoid heat styling.
* **Scalp Irritation:** If you experience scalp irritation during bleaching, rinse the bleach out immediately and apply a soothing scalp treatment.
Safety Precautions
Bleach is a powerful chemical, so it’s important to take safety precautions to protect yourself and your hair. Here are some essential safety tips:
* **Always Wear Gloves:** Wear gloves throughout the entire process to protect your hands from the chemicals.
* **Work in a Well-Ventilated Area:** Bleach fumes can be irritating, so work in a well-ventilated area.
* **Avoid Contact with Eyes and Skin:** If bleach comes into contact with your eyes or skin, rinse immediately with plenty of water.
* **Do Not Use on Eyelashes or Eyebrows:** Do not use bleach on your eyelashes or eyebrows, as it can cause serious eye damage.
* **Keep Out of Reach of Children and Pets:** Keep bleach out of reach of children and pets.
* **Follow Instructions Carefully:** Always follow the instructions on the bleach powder and developer packaging carefully.
* **Don’t Mix Different Bleach Products:** Never mix different bleach products together, as this can create dangerous fumes.
* **Perform a Strand Test:** Always perform a strand test before bleaching your entire head to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach.
When to Seek Professional Help
While DIY bleach dyeing can be successful, there are times when it’s best to seek professional help. Consider consulting a stylist if:
* You have very dark hair and want to go significantly lighter.
* Your hair is already damaged from previous treatments.
* You’re unsure about the process or the products to use.
* You experience severe scalp irritation or hair damage.
* You want to achieve a complex color or style.
Bleach dyeing your hair at home can be a fun and rewarding experience with proper preparation and caution. By following these steps, you can achieve salon-worthy results and express your unique style.