DIY Guide: Safely Lighten Your Dyed Hair at Home
Lightening dyed hair can be a tricky process. Whether you’re aiming for a subtle change or a more dramatic transformation, understanding the techniques and potential risks is crucial to maintaining healthy, beautiful hair. This comprehensive guide will walk you through several methods for lightening dyed hair at home, with detailed steps, precautions, and product recommendations to help you achieve your desired results safely.
Understanding the Challenges of Lightening Dyed Hair
Before diving into the methods, it’s important to understand why lightening dyed hair is more complex than lightening virgin hair. Dyed hair has already undergone a chemical process, making it more porous and prone to damage. Adding another chemical process, like lightening, can further weaken the hair structure, leading to dryness, breakage, and unwanted tones.
1. Porosity: Dyed hair often has increased porosity, meaning the hair shaft has more gaps and openings. This allows lightening products to penetrate quickly, but also makes it harder for the hair to retain moisture and strength.
2. Existing Pigment: The artificial pigments from your previous dye job can react unpredictably with lightening agents. This can result in brassy, orange, or even greenish tones, depending on the original color and the chemicals used.
3. Hair Condition: Pre-existing damage from heat styling, chemical treatments, or environmental factors can make your hair more vulnerable to further damage during the lightening process.
Assessing Your Hair’s Condition
Before you even consider lightening your dyed hair, you must realistically assess its current health. Damaged hair should be treated and strengthened *before* attempting any lightening. Here’s how to evaluate your hair:
* The Stretch Test: Gently pull a strand of wet hair. Healthy hair should stretch a bit and then return to its original length without breaking. Hair that breaks immediately is likely damaged.
* Porosity Test: Place a strand of clean, dry hair in a glass of water. If it sinks quickly, your hair is highly porous. If it floats for a while before sinking, it has low porosity.
* Visual Inspection: Look for split ends, breakage, dullness, and a rough texture. These are all signs of damage.
If your hair shows signs of significant damage, focus on repairing it with deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and minimizing heat styling for several weeks before attempting to lighten it.
Methods for Lightening Dyed Hair
There are several methods you can use to lighten dyed hair at home, ranging from gentle to more aggressive. The best method for you will depend on your hair’s condition, the level of lightening you desire, and your comfort level with chemical processes.
1. Color Remover/Color Stripper
Color removers or strippers are designed to remove artificial dye molecules from the hair without lifting the natural pigment. They are a less damaging alternative to bleach, but they may not be effective for all types of dyes, especially darker shades or permanent colors. These typically work best on semi-permanent or demi-permanent dyes.
How it Works: Color removers work by shrinking the dye molecules within the hair shaft, allowing them to be washed away. They don’t lighten the natural hair pigment, so your base color will remain the same.
Suitable For:
* Removing semi-permanent or demi-permanent dyes.
* Lightening a few shades if the previous dye was a dark color.
* Preparing hair for a lighter dye application.
Products to Consider:
* L’Oréal Effasol Color Remover: A popular and widely available option that effectively removes artificial color.
* Color Oops! Hair Color Remover: Another well-known brand that’s gentle on the hair and easy to use.
* One ‘n Only Colorfix: Known for its ability to remove stubborn colors.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
1. Read the Instructions: Carefully read the instructions provided with your chosen color remover. Each brand may have slightly different application methods.
2. Perform a Strand Test: Apply the color remover to a small, hidden section of your hair to test for any adverse reactions or unexpected results. This step is crucial!
3. Prepare Your Hair: Make sure your hair is dry and free of any styling products.
4. Apply the Color Remover: Using gloves, apply the color remover evenly throughout your hair, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends. Ensure all strands are saturated.
5. Process According to Instructions: Follow the recommended processing time on the product packaging. This usually ranges from 20 to 60 minutes.
6. Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse your hair thoroughly with warm water for at least 15-20 minutes. This step is essential to remove all the loosened dye molecules.
7. Shampoo and Condition: Use a clarifying shampoo to remove any remaining residue, followed by a deep conditioner to replenish moisture.
8. Assess the Results: Evaluate the color of your hair. You may need to repeat the process if the desired level of lightening hasn’t been achieved. Wait at least a week before repeating.
Precautions:
* Color removers can be drying, so always follow up with a deep conditioning treatment.
* Perform a strand test to avoid any unexpected results.
* Avoid using color removers on severely damaged hair.
* Be prepared for the color to revert slightly over the next few days.
2. Bleach Bath (Soap Cap)
A bleach bath, also known as a soap cap, is a diluted form of bleach that’s gentler on the hair than a full bleach application. It’s a good option for lightening dyed hair by a shade or two without causing excessive damage.
How it Works: A bleach bath combines bleach, developer, shampoo, and sometimes a conditioning agent. The shampoo dilutes the bleach, reducing its strength and slowing down the lightening process.
Suitable For:
* Lightening dyed hair by 1-2 shades.
* Removing brassiness or unwanted tones.
* Refreshing highlights or balayage.
Products You’ll Need:
* Bleach Powder: Choose a bleach powder suitable for your hair type. Lighter powders are generally gentler.
* Developer: Use a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume) to minimize damage. 10 volume is ideal for very fragile hair or for minimal lift.
* Shampoo: Use a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo to help dilute the bleach.
* Optional: Conditioner or Hair Mask: Adding a small amount of deep conditioner can help protect the hair during the process.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
1. Perform a Strand Test: Always test the mixture on a small, hidden section of your hair to assess the results and processing time.
2. Mix the Bleach Bath: In a non-metallic bowl, combine the following ingredients:
* 1 part bleach powder
* 1 part developer (10 or 20 volume)
* 1 part shampoo
* Optional: A small amount of deep conditioner (about a tablespoon)
3. Apply to Hair: Apply the mixture to damp hair, focusing on the areas you want to lighten. Use gloves and work quickly to ensure even application.
4. Massage Gently: Gently massage the mixture into your hair to ensure even distribution.
5. Process Carefully: Check the strand test regularly to monitor the lightening progress. The processing time typically ranges from 5 to 30 minutes, depending on the desired level of lift and your hair’s condition. *Never* leave it on longer than 30 minutes.
6. Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until all traces of the mixture are gone.
7. Shampoo and Condition: Shampoo your hair with a sulfate-free shampoo and follow up with a deep conditioning treatment.
8. Tone (Optional): If your hair has any unwanted tones (such as brassiness), use a toner to neutralize them.
Precautions:
* Bleach baths can still be damaging, so use a low-volume developer and monitor the processing time carefully.
* Always perform a strand test to avoid over-processing.
* Use a sulfate-free shampoo and deep conditioner to replenish moisture.
* Don’t use a bleach bath on severely damaged hair.
3. High-Lift Dye
High-lift dyes are designed to lighten and tone the hair in one step. They contain a higher concentration of ammonia and peroxide than regular dyes, allowing them to lift the hair several shades lighter. These are typically used on virgin hair but can be an option for lightening previously dyed hair, especially if you’re only looking to go a few shades lighter.
How it Works: High-lift dyes work by simultaneously lifting the natural pigment and depositing new color. They are formulated to lighten and tone the hair in a single process, which can be convenient but also potentially damaging.
Suitable For:
* Lightening dyed hair by 2-3 shades.
* Achieving a specific tone or shade.
* Those with relatively healthy hair.
Products to Consider:
* L’Oréal Superior Preference Hi-Lift Permanent Hair Color: A popular option for achieving bright, long-lasting color.
* Garnier Nutrisse Ultra Color Nourishing Color Crème: Enriched with nourishing oils to help protect the hair during the coloring process.
* Revlon Colorsilk High Impact Hair Color: An ammonia-free option that provides vibrant color and shine.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
1. Choose the Right Shade: Select a high-lift dye that’s a few shades lighter than your current hair color. Consider the undertones of your hair and choose a dye that will neutralize any unwanted brassiness or warmth.
2. Perform a Strand Test: As with any chemical process, perform a strand test to assess the results and processing time.
3. Prepare Your Hair: Make sure your hair is dry and free of any styling products.
4. Mix the Dye: Follow the instructions on the dye box to mix the color and developer in a non-metallic bowl.
5. Apply to Hair: Using gloves, apply the dye evenly throughout your hair, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends. Ensure all strands are saturated.
6. Process According to Instructions: Follow the recommended processing time on the dye box. This usually ranges from 30 to 45 minutes.
7. Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear.
8. Shampoo and Condition: Use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner to protect your hair and prolong the color.
Precautions:
* High-lift dyes can be damaging, so use a deep conditioning treatment regularly to replenish moisture.
* Perform a strand test to avoid any unexpected results.
* Avoid using high-lift dyes on severely damaged hair.
* Choose a shade that complements your skin tone.
4. Sun-In or Lemon Juice (Natural Lightening)
For a gentler, albeit less dramatic, lightening effect, you can try natural methods like Sun-In or lemon juice. These methods are best suited for lightening hair that’s already light or has minimal dye.
How it Works:
* Sun-In: Contains hydrogen peroxide, which is activated by heat (sunlight or a hair dryer) to lighten the hair.
* Lemon Juice: The citric acid in lemon juice acts as a natural bleaching agent. It’s activated by sunlight to lift the hair’s pigment.
Suitable For:
* Subtle lightening on already light-colored dyed hair.
* Creating natural-looking highlights.
* Those looking for a less damaging alternative to chemical lighteners.
Products You’ll Need:
* Sun-In Hair Lightener: Available in various formulas for different hair colors.
* Fresh Lemons: For lemon juice lightening.
* Spray Bottle: For easy application.
* Conditioner: To combat potential dryness.
Step-by-Step Instructions (Sun-In):
1. Prepare Your Hair: Wash and condition your hair as usual. Towel dry it slightly so it’s damp but not dripping.
2. Spray Application: Spray Sun-In evenly throughout your hair, focusing on the areas you want to lighten. You can create highlights by spraying specific strands.
3. Activate with Heat: Expose your hair to sunlight for 30-60 minutes, or use a hair dryer on a low setting. Reapply Sun-In and repeat the heat exposure for a more pronounced effect.
4. Rinse and Condition: Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water and apply a deep conditioner.
Step-by-Step Instructions (Lemon Juice):
1. Prepare the Lemon Juice: Mix equal parts lemon juice and water in a spray bottle. You can add a tablespoon of conditioner to help prevent dryness.
2. Spray Application: Spray the lemon juice mixture evenly throughout your hair, focusing on the areas you want to lighten.
3. Sun Exposure: Sit in direct sunlight for 30-60 minutes. The longer you stay in the sun, the more noticeable the lightening effect will be.
4. Rinse and Condition: Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water and apply a deep conditioner.
Precautions:
* Sun-In and lemon juice can be drying, so always follow up with a deep conditioning treatment.
* Avoid overexposure to sunlight to prevent damage and dryness.
* These methods may not be effective on dark or heavily dyed hair.
* Lemon juice can make your hair more sensitive to the sun, so protect your hair with a hat or scarf when outdoors.
5. Vitamin C Mask
Vitamin C masks are a gentle and natural way to fade hair dye, especially semi-permanent colors. While it won’t dramatically lighten your hair, it can help to remove some of the dye molecules, making it appear lighter overall.
How it Works: Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, helps to break down the dye molecules, causing them to loosen from the hair shaft and wash away.
Suitable For:
* Fading semi-permanent dyes.
* Slightly lightening dyed hair.
* Those looking for a natural and gentle method.
Products You’ll Need:
* Vitamin C Tablets: Plain ascorbic acid tablets are best. Avoid those with added flavors or coatings.
* Clarifying Shampoo: To help lift the dye molecules.
* Water: To create the paste.
* Deep Conditioner: To replenish moisture.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
1. Crush the Vitamin C Tablets: Crush 10-20 vitamin C tablets into a fine powder. You can use a mortar and pestle or place the tablets in a plastic bag and crush them with a rolling pin.
2. Mix the Paste: Add a small amount of warm water to the vitamin C powder to create a thick paste. The consistency should be similar to that of a hair mask.
3. Prepare Your Hair: Wet your hair thoroughly and apply a clarifying shampoo. Rinse well.
4. Apply the Vitamin C Mask: Apply the vitamin C paste evenly throughout your hair, focusing on the areas you want to lighten or fade. Massage the paste into your hair to ensure even distribution.
5. Process: Cover your hair with a shower cap or plastic wrap and let the mask sit for 30-60 minutes. You can apply gentle heat from a hair dryer to enhance the effect.
6. Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse your hair thoroughly with warm water until all traces of the vitamin C paste are gone.
7. Condition: Apply a deep conditioner to replenish moisture and prevent dryness.
Precautions:
* Vitamin C masks can be drying, so always follow up with a deep conditioning treatment.
* Avoid using vitamin C masks on severely damaged hair.
* This method may not be effective on permanent dyes.
* Test the paste on a small area of skin before applying it to your entire head to check for any sensitivity.
Toning After Lightening
After lightening your dyed hair, you may notice unwanted tones, such as brassiness (orange or yellow hues). Toning is essential to neutralize these tones and achieve your desired hair color.
What is Toner?
Toner is a product that deposits color to neutralize unwanted tones in the hair. It typically contains pigments that counteract brassiness, such as purple, blue, or green.
Types of Toner:
* Purple Toner: Neutralizes yellow tones, making blonde hair brighter and cooler.
* Blue Toner: Neutralizes orange tones, making brunette hair cooler and less brassy.
* Green Toner: Neutralizes red tones, often used for correcting overly warm brown or black hair.
Products to Consider:
* Wella Color Charm Toner: A popular and effective toner available in various shades.
* Manic Panic Virgin Snow: A semi-permanent toner that neutralizes yellow tones and adds a silvery sheen.
* Redken Shades EQ Gloss: A demi-permanent toner that adds shine and vibrancy to the hair.
How to Use Toner:
1. Choose the Right Toner: Select a toner that complements your desired hair color and neutralizes any unwanted tones.
2. Mix the Toner: Follow the instructions on the toner packaging to mix the toner with a developer (usually a low-volume developer like 10 volume).
3. Apply to Hair: Apply the toner evenly throughout your hair, focusing on the areas that need toning.
4. Process According to Instructions: Follow the recommended processing time on the toner packaging. This usually ranges from 10 to 30 minutes.
5. Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear.
6. Condition: Apply a deep conditioner to replenish moisture and protect your hair.
Essential Aftercare Tips
Lightening dyed hair can be a harsh process, so proper aftercare is crucial to maintaining healthy, beautiful hair. Here are some essential tips:
* Use Sulfate-Free Shampoo: Sulfate-free shampoos are gentler on the hair and won’t strip away moisture or color.
* Deep Condition Regularly: Use a deep conditioning treatment at least once a week to replenish moisture and repair damage.
* Protein Treatments: Incorporate protein treatments into your hair care routine to strengthen the hair shaft and prevent breakage.
* Minimize Heat Styling: Avoid using heat styling tools (such as hair dryers, curling irons, and straighteners) as much as possible. If you must use them, apply a heat protectant spray beforehand.
* Avoid Over-Washing: Washing your hair too frequently can strip away natural oils and dry it out. Try to wash your hair only 2-3 times a week.
* Protect Your Hair from the Sun: The sun can damage and fade colored hair, so protect it with a hat, scarf, or UV protectant spray.
* Regular Trims: Get regular trims to remove split ends and prevent breakage from traveling up the hair shaft.
* Use a Leave-In Conditioner: Apply a leave-in conditioner to your hair after washing to provide extra moisture and protection.
* Consider a Silk or Satin Pillowcase: These materials are gentler on the hair than cotton, reducing friction and breakage.
When to Seek Professional Help
While DIY lightening can be successful, there are times when it’s best to seek professional help from a qualified hair stylist. Consider consulting a professional if:
* Your hair is severely damaged.
* You’re attempting a dramatic color change.
* You have a history of allergic reactions to hair dyes.
* You’re unsure about which products to use or how to apply them.
* You’ve experienced adverse reactions to DIY hair treatments in the past.
A professional stylist can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the best course of action, and perform the lightening process safely and effectively.
Conclusion
Lightening dyed hair at home can be a rewarding experience, but it requires careful planning, patience, and attention to detail. By understanding the challenges, assessing your hair’s condition, choosing the right method, and following the essential aftercare tips, you can achieve your desired results while minimizing damage. Remember to always prioritize the health of your hair and seek professional help when needed. With the right approach, you can transform your dyed hair into a lighter, brighter, and more beautiful version of yourself.