DIY Pomade: A Step-by-Step Guide to Making Your Own Hair Styling Product

Pomade has been a staple in men’s (and increasingly women’s!) grooming routines for decades. It offers a classic, slicked-back look with varying degrees of hold and shine. While there are countless pomades available on the market, making your own at home can be a fun, cost-effective, and customizable alternative. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know to create your own pomade, tailored to your specific hair type and styling preferences.

Why Make Your Own Pomade?

Before we dive into the recipes, let’s explore the benefits of making your own pomade:

• Control over Ingredients: Store-bought pomades can contain harsh chemicals, artificial fragrances, and other ingredients you might want to avoid. Making your own allows you to use natural, skin-friendly alternatives.
• Cost-Effective: The ingredients for homemade pomade are often inexpensive and readily available, saving you money in the long run.
• Customization: You can adjust the ingredients to achieve the exact hold, shine, and scent you desire. This is especially helpful if you have specific hair needs or allergies.
• Fun and Rewarding: Making your own pomade is a satisfying DIY project that allows you to experiment and learn about hair care ingredients.

Types of Pomade

Pomades generally fall into two categories: oil-based and water-based.

• Oil-Based Pomades: These are the traditional type of pomade, made primarily with oils and waxes. They offer a strong hold and high shine but can be difficult to wash out.
• Water-Based Pomades: These are a more modern alternative, made with water-soluble ingredients. They offer a similar hold and shine to oil-based pomades but are much easier to wash out.

This guide will focus on both oil-based and water-based pomade recipes, allowing you to choose the type that best suits your needs.

Ingredients You’ll Need

Here’s a breakdown of the common ingredients used in homemade pomades, along with their functions:

Base Ingredients (for Hold and Texture):

• Beeswax: Provides a strong hold and texture. The amount of beeswax determines the hold strength of the pomade. More beeswax equals a stronger hold.
• Carnauba Wax: Offers a harder, more durable hold than beeswax. Use sparingly, as it can make the pomade difficult to work with.
• Shea Butter: Adds a creamy texture and moisturizing properties. It also contributes to a softer hold.
• Cocoa Butter: Similar to shea butter, cocoa butter adds moisture and a subtle chocolate scent.
• Castor Oil: Adds shine and helps to hold the hair in place. It also has moisturizing properties.
• Lanolin: A natural emollient that provides a soft, pliable hold and adds shine.
• Vegetable Glycerin (for Water-Based Pomades): A humectant that attracts moisture to the hair, providing a pliable hold and shine.
• PVP (Polyvinylpyrrolidone) (for Water-Based Pomades): A film-forming polymer that provides a strong hold and control. Available at cosmetic ingredient suppliers.

Carrier Oils (for Shine and Conditioning):

• Coconut Oil: Adds shine, moisture, and a subtle coconut scent.
• Olive Oil: A classic carrier oil that provides shine and conditions the hair.
• Jojoba Oil: Mimics the natural sebum of the scalp, providing moisture and balance.
• Argan Oil: Rich in antioxidants and fatty acids, argan oil adds shine, smoothness, and strengthens the hair.
• Avocado Oil: Provides deep moisture and adds shine.
• Almond Oil: A lightweight oil that adds shine and softens the hair.

Essential Oils (for Scent and Added Benefits):

• Peppermint Oil: Provides a refreshing scent and can stimulate hair growth. Use sparingly, as it can be irritating to some people.
• Lavender Oil: Has a calming scent and can promote relaxation.
• Cedarwood Oil: Has a woody scent and can help to balance the scalp’s oil production.
• Tea Tree Oil: Has antiseptic and antifungal properties and can help to treat dandruff. Use sparingly.
• Rosemary Oil: Can stimulate hair growth and improve circulation.
• Sandalwood Oil: Offers a warm, woody scent.

Other Optional Ingredients:

• Vitamin E Oil: A powerful antioxidant that can protect the hair from damage.
• Colorants: Mica powders or natural food colorings can be used to add a subtle tint to your pomade. (Use with caution, as some colorants can stain).
• Preservatives (for Water-Based Pomades): Optiphen Plus or other broad-spectrum preservatives are necessary to prevent bacterial growth in water-based formulas. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for usage rates.

Equipment You’ll Need

• Double Boiler or Heat-Safe Bowl and Saucepan: For melting the ingredients. A double boiler is preferred, as it provides gentle, even heat.
• Spoon or Spatula: For stirring the ingredients.
• Small Jars or Tins: For storing the finished pomade. Make sure they are clean and dry.
• Measuring Spoons and Cups: For accurate ingredient measurements.
• Kitchen Scale: For precise measurements, especially when using waxes.
• Thermometer: To monitor the temperature of your mixture, especially important when working with water-based pomades and preservatives.

Oil-Based Pomade Recipe

This recipe creates a medium-hold, medium-shine oil-based pomade. Feel free to adjust the ingredients to suit your preferences.

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons Beeswax
• 2 tablespoons Shea Butter
• 4 tablespoons Castor Oil
• 2 tablespoons Coconut Oil
• 10-15 drops Essential Oil (e.g., Cedarwood, Sandalwood)

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Double Boiler: Fill the bottom pot of your double boiler with water and bring it to a simmer.
2. Melt the Waxes and Butters: In the top pot of the double boiler, combine the beeswax and shea butter. Heat until completely melted, stirring occasionally.
3. Add the Carrier Oils: Remove the top pot from the heat and add the castor oil and coconut oil. Stir until well combined.
4. Add Essential Oils: Add your chosen essential oils and stir thoroughly.
5. Pour into Containers: Carefully pour the mixture into your prepared jars or tins.
6. Cool and Harden: Allow the pomade to cool completely at room temperature before using. This may take several hours.

Water-Based Pomade Recipe

This recipe creates a medium-hold, medium-shine water-based pomade. Remember to use a preservative to prevent bacterial growth.

Ingredients:

• 1/4 cup Distilled Water
• 1 tablespoon PVP (Polyvinylpyrrolidone)
• 1 tablespoon Vegetable Glycerin
• 1 teaspoon Castor Oil
• 1/2 teaspoon Emulsifying Wax (e.g., Polawax)
• 1/4 teaspoon Preservative (e.g., Optiphen Plus)
• 5-10 drops Essential Oil (e.g., Peppermint, Lavender)

Instructions:

1. Combine Water and PVP: In a heat-safe bowl, combine the distilled water and PVP. Stir until the PVP is completely dissolved. This may take some time and stirring.
2. Heat the Mixture: Gently heat the water and PVP mixture in a double boiler or microwave until warm.
3. Add Remaining Ingredients: Remove from heat and add the vegetable glycerin, castor oil, and emulsifying wax. Stir constantly until the emulsifying wax is completely melted and the mixture is smooth. This is an important step to ensure the ingredients blend properly. A small immersion blender can be helpful here.
4. Cool Slightly: Allow the mixture to cool slightly, until it is no longer hot but still liquid.
5. Add Preservative and Essential Oils: Add the preservative and essential oils. Stir thoroughly to combine.
6. Pour into Containers: Pour the mixture into your prepared jars or tins.
7. Cool and Set: Allow the pomade to cool completely at room temperature before using. This may take several hours. The pomade will thicken as it cools.

Troubleshooting Your Pomade

Sometimes, even with the best recipes, things don’t go exactly as planned. Here are some common issues and how to fix them:

• Pomade is Too Hard: Reduce the amount of beeswax or carnauba wax in your next batch. Increase the amount of shea butter, cocoa butter, or carrier oils.
• Pomade is Too Soft: Increase the amount of beeswax or carnauba wax in your next batch. Reduce the amount of shea butter, cocoa butter, or carrier oils.
• Pomade is Too Greasy: Reduce the amount of carrier oils, especially coconut oil. Consider adding a small amount of clay, such as bentonite clay, to absorb excess oil.
• Pomade is Too Dry: Increase the amount of carrier oils, shea butter, or cocoa butter. For water-based pomades, add more vegetable glycerin.
• Pomade is Separating: This usually happens with water-based pomades. Ensure you are using an emulsifying wax and that you are stirring the mixture constantly while it cools. You may also need to adjust the ratio of oil to water.
• Pomade has a Grainy Texture: This can happen with shea butter or cocoa butter if they are not heated and cooled properly. Ensure you are melting them completely and allowing the pomade to cool slowly and undisturbed.
• Water-Based Pomade is Growing Mold: Make sure you are using a broad-spectrum preservative at the correct concentration. Clean and sanitize your equipment thoroughly before making the pomade.

Tips for Using Pomade

• Start Small: Begin with a small amount of pomade and add more as needed. It’s always easier to add more than to remove too much.
• Warm it Up: Rub the pomade between your palms to warm it up before applying it to your hair. This will make it easier to distribute evenly.
• Apply to Damp or Dry Hair: Oil-based pomades are generally best applied to dry hair for a stronger hold. Water-based pomades can be applied to damp or dry hair, depending on the desired level of hold.
• Style as Desired: Use a comb or your fingers to style your hair as desired.
• Wash Out Properly: Oil-based pomades can be difficult to wash out. Use a clarifying shampoo or a dish soap to remove the build-up. Water-based pomades are much easier to wash out with regular shampoo.

Experiment and Have Fun!

Making your own pomade is all about experimentation. Don’t be afraid to try different ingredients and ratios to find what works best for your hair. Once you’ve mastered the basics, you can get creative with different scents, colors, and textures. Enjoy the process and the satisfaction of creating your own custom hair styling product!

Storing Your Pomade

Proper storage is crucial to maintaining the quality and shelf life of your homemade pomade.

• Airtight Containers: Always store your pomade in airtight containers to prevent oxidation and contamination. Jars or tins with tight-fitting lids are ideal.
• Cool, Dark Place: Store your pomade in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight and heat. Excessive heat can melt the pomade or alter its consistency.
• Avoid Water Contamination: Be careful not to introduce water into your pomade, as this can promote bacterial growth, especially in water-based formulas. Always use clean, dry hands or tools when applying or handling the pomade.
• Shelf Life: Oil-based pomades typically have a longer shelf life than water-based pomades due to the absence of water. Oil-based pomades can last for several months to a year if stored properly. Water-based pomades, on the other hand, should be used within a few months and must contain a preservative. Always check for signs of spoilage, such as changes in color, odor, or texture, before using any homemade product.
• Labeling: Label your pomade containers with the date of creation and a list of ingredients. This will help you keep track of the age of your product and identify any potential allergens.

Variations and Advanced Techniques

Once you’re comfortable with the basic recipes, you can start experimenting with more advanced techniques and variations to create truly unique pomades.

• Adding Clay for Matte Finish: Bentonite clay or kaolin clay can be added to oil-based pomades to create a matte or low-shine finish. Start with a small amount (e.g., 1/2 teaspoon per batch) and adjust to your liking. The clay will absorb excess oil and provide a more textured look. Mix the clay with a small amount of carrier oil before adding it to the melted waxes and oils to prevent clumping.
• Using Different Waxes for Texture: Experiment with different types of waxes, such as candelilla wax or rice bran wax, to achieve different textures and levels of hold. Candelilla wax is a vegan alternative to beeswax and provides a similar hold. Rice bran wax is a softer wax that can add pliability to the pomade.
• Infusing Oils with Herbs: Infuse your carrier oils with herbs, such as rosemary or horsetail, to add extra benefits to your pomade. To infuse an oil, combine the herb with the oil in a heat-safe jar and heat in a double boiler or slow cooker for several hours. Strain the oil through a cheesecloth to remove the herbs.
• Creating a Firm Hold Pomade: Increase the proportion of beeswax or carnauba wax in your recipe to create a firmer hold. For extreme hold, you can also add a small amount of microcrystalline wax. Be careful not to add too much, as this can make the pomade difficult to apply.
• Experimenting with Fragrance Blends: Get creative with your essential oil blends to create unique and appealing fragrances. Research the properties of different essential oils to create blends that not only smell good but also offer therapeutic benefits. Always dilute essential oils properly and test a small amount on your skin before using them in your pomade.
• Adding Natural Colorants: Experiment with natural colorants, such as beet root powder or spirulina powder, to add a subtle tint to your pomade. Start with a very small amount and adjust to your liking. Be aware that some natural colorants can stain clothing or skin.
• Two-Phase Pomade: This involves layering a lighter oil-based pomade with a stronger wax-based pomade for a versatile styling experience. Apply the oil-based layer first for moisture and shine, then add the wax-based layer for hold and definition.

Safety Precautions

While making your own pomade is generally safe, it’s essential to take certain safety precautions to avoid potential hazards.

• Hot Surfaces: Be extremely careful when working with hot surfaces, such as double boilers, pots, and melted waxes. Use oven mitts or pot holders to protect your hands from burns.
• Essential Oils: Essential oils are highly concentrated and can be irritating to the skin if used undiluted. Always dilute essential oils properly before adding them to your pomade. Test a small amount of the diluted essential oil on your skin to check for any allergic reactions before using it in your pomade.
• Flammable Materials: Be aware that some ingredients, such as alcohol and certain essential oils, are flammable. Keep these materials away from open flames or heat sources.
• Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or goggles when working with hot materials or potentially irritating ingredients to protect your eyes from splashes or fumes.
• Ventilation: Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fumes from melted waxes or essential oils.
• Children and Pets: Keep all ingredients and equipment out of reach of children and pets. Some ingredients can be toxic if ingested.
• Sanitation: Maintain a clean and sanitary work environment to prevent contamination of your pomade. Wash your hands thoroughly before starting and sanitize all equipment and containers with hot, soapy water or a disinfectant solution.
• Preservatives: When making water-based pomades, always use a broad-spectrum preservative at the recommended concentration to prevent bacterial growth. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully when using preservatives.

Alternatives to Traditional Ingredients

For those with allergies, sensitivities, or specific preferences, there are several alternatives to traditional pomade ingredients.

• Vegan Waxes: Candelilla wax, rice bran wax, and soy wax are vegan alternatives to beeswax. These waxes offer similar hold and texture properties and can be used in oil-based pomades.
• Shea Butter Alternatives: Mango butter, kokum butter, and cupuacu butter are alternatives to shea butter. These butters offer similar moisturizing and emollient properties and can be used in oil-based pomades.
• Oil Substitutions: If you are allergic to coconut oil, you can substitute it with other carrier oils, such as grapeseed oil, sunflower oil, or safflower oil.
• Fragrance-Free Options: If you are sensitive to fragrances, you can omit essential oils from your pomade recipe. Alternatively, you can use a small amount of a fragrance-free essential oil blend or a natural fragrance extract.
• Preservative Alternatives: If you prefer to avoid synthetic preservatives, you can try using natural preservatives, such as rosemary extract or grapefruit seed extract. However, these natural preservatives may not be as effective as synthetic preservatives, and your pomade may have a shorter shelf life.

Conclusion

Making your own pomade is a rewarding and customizable experience. By following these recipes, tips, and safety precautions, you can create a pomade that is perfectly tailored to your hair type, styling preferences, and personal values. Experiment with different ingredients, techniques, and variations to discover your signature pomade formula. Enjoy the process and the satisfaction of creating a unique and effective hair styling product that is all your own.