Dreads vs. Locs: Unraveling the Hair Mystery and Starting Your Own Journey
Many people use the terms “dreads” and “locs” interchangeably, leading to confusion about what each style truly entails. While both involve matted or coiled hairstyles, there are key distinctions in how they are created, maintained, and perceived. This comprehensive guide will explore the differences between dreads and locs, providing detailed steps and instructions for starting your own loc journey. We’ll also delve into the cultural significance and dispel some common misconceptions.
Understanding the Terminology
Before diving into the specifics, let’s clarify the vocabulary:
* **Locs (or Locks):** This refers to the hairstyle created by intentionally matting or braiding hair to form rope-like strands. Locs are often seen as a deliberate and cultivated hairstyle, symbolizing various things depending on culture and individual beliefs. The process of creating and maintaining locs is often referred to as “locking.”
* **Dreads (or Dreadlocks):** This term historically has carried negative connotations, often associated with fear or untidiness. However, it’s now frequently used as a general term for matted hair, sometimes used interchangeably with “locs.” For the purpose of this article, we will focus on locs as the intentional and cultivated hairstyle.
* **Sisterlocks™:** This is a patented, specific type of loc that is very thin and requires a certified consultant to install and maintain. They are known for their versatility and can be styled in many ways.
* **Brotherlocks:** These are thicker than Sisterlocks™ but installed with the same interlacing technique. They are also installed by certified consultants.
Key Differences Between Dreads and Locs
While the terms are often used interchangeably, here’s a breakdown of the fundamental differences:
* **Intentionality and Cultivation:** Locs are almost always intentionally created and maintained using specific techniques. Dreads can sometimes form naturally if hair is left uncombed and unmaintained for an extended period, but this is often seen as unintentional. Locs are a conscious hairstyle choice.
* **Maintenance:** Locs require regular maintenance, including washing, retwisting, palm rolling, interlocking, or crocheting. This helps to maintain their shape and prevent breakage. “Dreads” that form naturally may receive little to no maintenance.
* **Neatness and Definition:** Locs are typically more defined and neater in appearance due to the maintenance practices. While the aesthetic can vary, the general goal is often to create uniform and well-maintained strands. “Dreads” may have a more unkempt or freeform appearance.
* **Cultural Significance:** Locs have deep cultural roots, particularly within the Rastafarian movement, where they symbolize spiritual connection, rebellion, and natural living. While anyone can choose to wear locs, it’s crucial to understand and respect their cultural significance. Dreads, in their more general sense, may not carry the same specific cultural weight, although the association with locs means some sensitivities can still apply.
Methods for Starting Locs
There are several methods for starting locs, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. The best method for you will depend on your hair type, length, and desired aesthetic. Here are some popular methods:
1. **Comb Coils:** This method is suitable for short to medium hair. It involves using a small-tooth comb to create tight coils that will eventually mature into locs.
2. **Two-Strand Twists:** This method is versatile and works well for various hair lengths and textures. It involves twisting two strands of hair together, which will then begin to mat and lock over time.
3. **Braids:** Braiding is another excellent method for starting locs, especially for those with looser hair textures. The braids will serve as a foundation for the locs, providing structure and definition.
4. **Palm Rolling:** This technique involves applying locking gel or wax to the hair and rolling the strands between your palms to create a cylindrical shape. It’s a good option for those with slightly longer hair and who want a more uniform look.
5. **Interlocking:** This method uses a special tool or the end of a rat-tail comb to pull the end of the loc through the root, creating a knot. It is often used for maintenance and can also be used to start locs, especially for those with looser textures or who want to avoid using products.
6. **Freeform:** This method involves letting the hair naturally mat and lock on its own, with minimal manipulation. This approach requires patience and results in a more organic and less uniform look. It is still important to keep the scalp clean and moisturized.
Detailed Steps for Starting Locs with Comb Coils
This is one of the simplest methods, perfect for shorter hair. Here’s a step-by-step guide:
**Materials You’ll Need:**
* Small-tooth comb
* Locking gel or wax (choose a product suitable for your hair type)
* Spray bottle with water
* Clips or rubber bands (optional)
* Microfiber towel or T-shirt
**Step 1: Prepare Your Hair**
* Wash your hair with a residue-free shampoo to remove any buildup. Avoid using conditioners or heavy products that can prevent the hair from locking.
* Towel-dry your hair, leaving it slightly damp. It should not be soaking wet.
* Detangle your hair gently with a wide-tooth comb or your fingers.
**Step 2: Section Your Hair**
* Divide your hair into small, even sections, approximately 1 inch by 1 inch. The size of the sections will determine the thickness of your locs. Use clips or rubber bands to secure each section.
**Step 3: Apply Locking Gel or Wax**
* Take one section and apply a small amount of locking gel or wax from the root to the end. Be careful not to use too much product, as this can cause buildup.
**Step 4: Create the Comb Coil**
* Place the small-tooth comb at the root of the section.
* Twist the comb while pulling it away from the scalp, creating a tight coil.
* Continue twisting until you reach the end of the section.
* Repeat this process for each section of your hair.
**Step 5: Secure the Coils (Optional)**
* If you have looser hair, you can secure the ends of the coils with small rubber bands to help them hold their shape. However, be careful not to tie the rubber bands too tightly, as this can cause breakage.
**Step 6: Dry Your Hair**
* Allow your hair to air dry completely. This can take several hours, depending on your hair type and the humidity.
* You can also use a hooded dryer on a low setting to speed up the drying process.
**Step 7: Maintain Your Comb Coils**
* For the first few weeks, avoid washing your hair too frequently. When you do wash it, use a gentle, residue-free shampoo and focus on cleaning your scalp.
* To prevent unraveling, you can wrap your hair with a silk or satin scarf at night.
* After a few weeks, your coils will begin to tighten and mat, forming the foundation of your locs.
Detailed Steps for Starting Locs with Two-Strand Twists
This method is suitable for various hair lengths and textures.
**Materials You’ll Need:**
* Locking gel or cream (choose a product suitable for your hair type)
* Spray bottle with water
* Clips or rubber bands (optional)
* Wide-tooth comb
**Step 1: Prepare Your Hair**
* Wash your hair with a residue-free shampoo.
* Condition your hair to add moisture.
* Detangle your hair thoroughly with a wide-tooth comb.
**Step 2: Section Your Hair**
* Divide your hair into small, even sections, approximately 1/2 inch to 1 inch, depending on the desired thickness of your locs. Secure each section with clips or rubber bands.
**Step 3: Apply Locking Gel or Cream**
* Take one section and dampen it lightly with water from the spray bottle.
* Apply a small amount of locking gel or cream from the root to the end of the section.
**Step 4: Create the Two-Strand Twist**
* Divide the section into two equal strands.
* Twist the two strands around each other, starting at the root and working your way down to the end.
* Make sure the twists are snug but not too tight, as this can cause breakage.
* Repeat this process for each section of your hair.
**Step 5: Secure the Ends (Optional)**
* You can secure the ends of the twists with small rubber bands or by dipping them in boiling water for a few seconds. Be extremely careful when using boiling water to avoid burns.
**Step 6: Dry Your Hair**
* Allow your hair to air dry completely, or use a hooded dryer on a low setting.
**Step 7: Maintain Your Two-Strand Twists**
* As with comb coils, avoid washing your hair too frequently in the beginning.
* Wrap your hair with a silk or satin scarf at night.
* Over time, the twists will begin to mat and lock, forming the foundation of your locs.
Detailed Steps for Starting Locs with Braids
This method is suitable for hair that may have trouble holding a coil or twist.
**Materials You’ll Need:**
* Locking gel or cream (choose a product suitable for your hair type)
* Spray bottle with water
* Clips or rubber bands (optional)
* Wide-tooth comb
**Step 1: Prepare Your Hair**
* Wash your hair with a residue-free shampoo.
* Condition your hair to add moisture.
* Detangle your hair thoroughly with a wide-tooth comb.
**Step 2: Section Your Hair**
* Divide your hair into small, even sections, approximately 1/2 inch to 1 inch, depending on the desired thickness of your locs. Secure each section with clips or rubber bands.
**Step 3: Apply Locking Gel or Cream**
* Take one section and dampen it lightly with water from the spray bottle.
* Apply a small amount of locking gel or cream from the root to the end of the section.
**Step 4: Create the Braid**
* Divide the section into three equal strands.
* Braid the three strands together, starting at the root and working your way down to the end.
* Make sure the braids are snug but not too tight, as this can cause breakage.
* Repeat this process for each section of your hair.
**Step 5: Secure the Ends (Optional)**
* You can secure the ends of the twists with small rubber bands.
**Step 6: Dry Your Hair**
* Allow your hair to air dry completely, or use a hooded dryer on a low setting.
**Step 7: Maintain Your Braids**
* As with other starting methods, avoid washing your hair too frequently in the beginning.
* Wrap your hair with a silk or satin scarf at night.
* Over time, the braids will begin to mat and lock, forming the foundation of your locs.
Detailed Steps for Starting Locs with Palm Rolling
This method works best with slightly longer hair.
**Materials You’ll Need:**
* Locking gel or wax (strong hold)
* Spray bottle with water
* Clips
* Rat-tail comb
**Step 1: Prepare Your Hair**
* Wash and thoroughly dry your hair. Clean hair is essential for the wax or gel to adhere properly.
* Section your hair according to the size locs you desire. Use a rat-tail comb for precise parting and secure each section with a clip.
**Step 2: Apply Locking Product**
* Take one section and dampen it very lightly with water. Less is more, as too much water will dilute the product.
* Apply a generous amount of locking gel or wax to the entire length of the section, focusing on the roots. Ensure even distribution.
**Step 3: Palm Roll**
* Place the section between your palms, close to the root.
* Roll your palms back and forth vigorously, applying consistent pressure. This motion encourages the hair to coil and compress.
* Continue palm rolling down the entire length of the section until it forms a tight, cylindrical shape.
* Repeat this process for each section.
**Step 4: Drying**
* Allow your hair to air dry completely. This can take a considerable amount of time depending on your hair density and the amount of product used. Use a hooded dryer on a low setting to speed up the drying process if desired.
**Step 5: Maintenance**
* Palm rolling will need to be repeated regularly (every 1-2 weeks) as new growth emerges at the roots. Continue this maintenance to encourage the new hair to lock with the existing locs.
* Avoid washing your hair too frequently, as this can loosen the coils. When you do wash, be gentle and use a residue-free shampoo.
Detailed Steps for Starting Locs with Interlocking
Interlocking is a method that involves using a tool or the end of a rat-tail comb to weave the end of the hair through the root. It’s often favored for its longevity and ability to secure locs, especially for looser hair textures.
**Materials You’ll Need:**
* Interlocking tool (or the pointed end of a rat-tail comb)
* Spray bottle with water (optional)
* Clips
**Step 1: Prepare Your Hair**
* Wash and thoroughly dry your hair. Ensure it’s clean and free of oils or products that could hinder the interlocking process.
* Section your hair according to the desired size of your locs. Use a rat-tail comb for clean parts and secure each section with a clip.
**Step 2: Interlock the Hair**
* Take one section and hold it taut. Slightly dampen the root area if needed for better grip (optional).
* Insert the interlocking tool (or the pointed end of the rat-tail comb) through the base of the section, creating a small opening.
* Pull the end of the hair strand through the opening using the tool. This creates a knot at the base.
* Repeat this process, interlocking in different directions (e.g., four-point rotation – front, back, left, right) to secure the root and encourage locking.
* Repeat this process for each section of your hair.
**Step 3: Maintenance**
* Interlocking is a relatively low-maintenance method, but it will need to be repeated as new growth emerges. The frequency depends on your hair growth rate (typically every 4-8 weeks).
* Be careful not to interlock too tightly, as this can cause breakage or thinning at the roots.
* Avoid over-manipulation of the locs to prevent damage.
Detailed Steps for Starting Locs with the Freeform Method
The freeform method is all about embracing your hair’s natural tendencies. It’s a hands-off approach that lets your hair lock naturally, without much manipulation.
**Materials You’ll Need:**
* Residue-free shampoo
* Patience
* Microfiber towel or T-shirt
**Step 1: Prepare Your Hair**
* Wash your hair regularly with a residue-free shampoo to keep your scalp clean and prevent buildup. Avoid using conditioners or heavy products.
* Towel-dry your hair using a microfiber towel or T-shirt to minimize frizz.
**Step 2: Let It Be**
* This is the core of the freeform method. Simply allow your hair to do its thing. Avoid combing, brushing, or detangling.
* As your hair grows, it will naturally begin to tangle and mat. These mats will eventually form locs.
**Step 3: Gentle Separation (Optional)**
* If you want to influence the size or shape of your locs, you can gently separate larger mats with your fingers. However, avoid forcing anything – the goal is to work with your hair’s natural tendencies, not against them.
**Step 4: Maintenance**
* Continue washing your hair regularly with a residue-free shampoo.
* Keep your scalp moisturized with a light oil or spray.
* Be patient! Freeform locs take time to develop, and the process can be unpredictable. Embrace the unique texture and shape of your locs as they form.
General Loc Maintenance Tips
Regardless of the method you choose, here are some essential loc maintenance tips:
* **Washing:** Wash your locs regularly (every 1-2 weeks) with a residue-free shampoo. Dilute the shampoo with water to prevent buildup. Focus on cleansing your scalp and gently squeezing the shampoo through the length of your locs. Rinse thoroughly.
* **Moisturizing:** Locs can become dry and brittle, so it’s essential to moisturize them regularly. Use a light oil, such as coconut oil, jojoba oil, or olive oil, to hydrate your locs. You can also use a leave-in conditioner or a moisturizing spray.
* **Scalp Care:** A healthy scalp is crucial for healthy locs. Massage your scalp regularly to stimulate blood flow and promote growth. You can also use a scalp oil or treatment to nourish your scalp and prevent dryness and itching.
* **Retwisting:** Retwisting helps to maintain the shape and neatness of your locs. The frequency of retwisting depends on your hair type and desired aesthetic. Some people retwist every 2-4 weeks, while others do it less frequently.
* **Nighttime Protection:** Protect your locs at night by wrapping them with a silk or satin scarf or sleeping on a silk or satin pillowcase. This will help to prevent breakage and frizz.
* **Avoid Over-Manipulation:** Excessive manipulation can damage your locs. Avoid over-twisting, over-styling, and using harsh chemicals.
* **Diet and Hydration:** A healthy diet and adequate hydration are essential for healthy hair growth. Eat a balanced diet rich in vitamins and minerals, and drink plenty of water.
Common Misconceptions About Locs
There are several common misconceptions about locs that need to be addressed:
* **Locs are dirty:** This is a harmful and untrue stereotype. Locs can be kept clean and healthy with regular washing and maintenance.
* **Locs are unprofessional:** This is a discriminatory belief. Locs are a versatile and beautiful hairstyle that can be worn in any professional setting. Many workplaces are now embracing natural hairstyles, including locs.
* **Locs are easy to maintain:** While locs can be low-maintenance in some ways, they still require regular care and attention to prevent breakage and maintain their shape.
* **Anyone can just get locs:** While anyone can choose to start their own loc journey, it is important to research and understand the cultural significance and history of locs, especially if you are not of African descent.
The Cultural Significance of Locs
Locs have deep cultural roots, particularly within the Rastafarian movement, where they symbolize spiritual connection, rebellion, and natural living. Rastafarians view locs as a symbol of their covenant with Jah (God) and a rejection of Western societal norms. Locs also represent strength, wisdom, and connection to their African heritage.
Beyond Rastafarianism, locs have been worn by various cultures throughout history, including ancient Egyptians, Hindus, and certain African tribes. In these cultures, locs often symbolize spiritual power, status, or tribal affiliation.
Conclusion
Understanding the difference between dreads and locs is essential for appreciating the nuances of this versatile hairstyle. While “dreads” can refer to matted hair in general, “locs” typically denote intentionally cultivated and maintained strands with deep cultural significance. By choosing the right method, practicing proper maintenance, and respecting the cultural heritage of locs, you can embark on a fulfilling and beautiful hair journey.
Whether you opt for comb coils, two-strand twists, braids, palm rolling, interlocking, or the freeform method, remember that patience and consistency are key. Embrace the process, learn about your hair, and enjoy the journey of growing your locs.
This comprehensive guide has provided you with the knowledge and tools to start your own loc journey with confidence. Now, it’s time to embrace your natural hair and create a unique and beautiful expression of yourself.