Emperor Scorpion Care: A Comprehensive Guide for Beginners
Emperor scorpions ( *Pandinus imperator* ) are a popular choice for beginner scorpion enthusiasts due to their relatively docile nature, impressive size, and fascinating behaviors. Native to the rainforests of West Africa, these impressive arachnids can live for 5-8 years with proper care. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every aspect of emperor scorpion care, ensuring your scorpion thrives in its captive environment.
## I. Understanding Emperor Scorpions
Before diving into the specifics of care, it’s crucial to understand the basic characteristics and needs of emperor scorpions.
* **Size:** Adult emperor scorpions can reach impressive sizes, typically ranging from 6 to 8 inches in length. Females tend to be larger than males.
* **Appearance:** They are characterized by their glossy black exoskeleton, large pedipalps (pincers), and a segmented tail ending in a stinger.
* **Temperament:** Emperor scorpions are generally docile and not aggressive, especially compared to other scorpion species. However, they are still capable of stinging, so handling should be kept to a minimum and always performed with caution.
* **Venom:** Emperor scorpion venom is relatively mild and is often compared to a bee sting. While not considered medically significant for healthy adults, it can cause localized pain, swelling, and redness. Allergic reactions are possible, so it’s important to be aware of the risks.
* **Nocturnal:** Emperor scorpions are nocturnal creatures, meaning they are most active at night. They spend their days hiding in burrows or under debris.
* **Lifespan:** With proper care, emperor scorpions can live for 5 to 8 years, and sometimes even longer.
## II. Setting Up the Perfect Enclosure
Creating the right environment is essential for the health and well-being of your emperor scorpion. Here’s a breakdown of the key elements:
### A. Enclosure Size and Type
* **Minimum Size:** A 10-gallon glass terrarium is the minimum recommended size for a single adult emperor scorpion. For two scorpions, a 20-gallon terrarium is preferable. Bigger is always better, allowing for more natural behaviors.
* **Enclosure Type:** Glass terrariums are ideal because they retain humidity well and allow for easy viewing. Avoid plastic enclosures, as they can scratch easily and are more difficult to clean.
* **Secure Lid:** A secure, well-ventilated lid is absolutely essential to prevent escapes. Emperor scorpions are surprisingly strong and can squeeze through small gaps. Ensure the lid is tightly sealed and properly latched.
### B. Substrate
The substrate is the material that lines the bottom of the enclosure and provides a surface for the scorpion to walk on and burrow into. The ideal substrate should retain moisture well and be safe for scorpions.
* **Recommended Substrates:**
* **Coconut Fiber (Coco Coir):** This is an excellent choice because it holds moisture well and is easy to clean. Make sure to use the loose fiber variety, not the compressed bricks, as the bricks can be difficult to rehydrate properly.
* **Peat Moss:** Peat moss is another good option for retaining moisture. Ensure it’s free of fertilizers and other additives.
* **Mix of Coconut Fiber and Peat Moss:** A 50/50 mix of these two substrates can provide the best of both worlds.
* **ABG Mix:** A pre-made mix for terrariums like Josh’s Frogs ABG mix is also suitable.
* **Substrate Depth:** The substrate should be at least 4-6 inches deep to allow the scorpion to burrow and create its own microclimate.
* **Avoiding Unsuitable Substrates:**
* **Sand:** Sand is not recommended because it doesn’t retain moisture well and can cause impaction if ingested.
* **Gravel:** Gravel is difficult to clean and provides no opportunity for burrowing.
* **Cedar or Pine Shavings:** These woods contain oils that are toxic to invertebrates.
### C. Temperature and Humidity
Maintaining the correct temperature and humidity levels is crucial for the health of your emperor scorpion.
* **Temperature:**
* **Ambient Temperature:** The ideal ambient temperature for emperor scorpions is between 75°F and 85°F (24°C to 29°C). A temperature gradient within the enclosure is beneficial, allowing the scorpion to choose its preferred temperature.
* **Basking Spot (Optional):** While not strictly necessary, providing a basking spot with a temperature of around 90°F (32°C) can be beneficial. You can achieve this using a low-wattage heat mat placed on the side of the enclosure (not underneath, as this can dry out the substrate too quickly) or a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) placed above the enclosure.
* **Monitoring Temperature:** Use a reliable thermometer to monitor the temperature within the enclosure. Digital thermometers with probes are more accurate than analog thermometers.
* **Nighttime Temperature Drop:** A slight temperature drop at night (down to around 70°F/21°C) is acceptable and can even be beneficial.
* **Humidity:**
* **Ideal Humidity:** Emperor scorpions require high humidity levels, ideally between 70% and 80%.
* **Maintaining Humidity:**
* **Misting:** Mist the enclosure regularly with dechlorinated water to maintain humidity levels. The frequency of misting will depend on the ventilation of the enclosure and the ambient humidity in your home.
* **Substrate Moisture:** Ensure the substrate is consistently moist but not waterlogged. You should be able to squeeze a handful of substrate and have it feel damp but not dripping.
* **Water Bowl:** Provide a shallow water bowl for the scorpion to drink from. The water bowl will also contribute to the overall humidity of the enclosure. Use a shallow dish with pebbles or marbles in it to prevent the scorpion from drowning.
* **Monitoring Humidity:** Use a hygrometer to monitor the humidity levels within the enclosure. Digital hygrometers are generally more accurate than analog hygrometers.
### D. Hides and Decor
Providing hiding places is essential for emperor scorpions, as they are naturally secretive creatures. Hides provide a sense of security and reduce stress.
* **Types of Hides:**
* **Cork Bark:** Cork bark is a natural and attractive option for hides. It’s also resistant to mold and mildew.
* **Rock Caves:** Rock caves can be purchased from pet stores or reptile supply companies. Make sure the rocks are securely placed and won’t collapse on the scorpion.
* **Half Logs:** Half logs provide a simple and effective hiding place.
* **Commercial Reptile Hides:** There are many commercially available reptile hides that are suitable for emperor scorpions.
* **Placement of Hides:** Provide at least two hides in the enclosure, one on the warmer side and one on the cooler side, allowing the scorpion to choose its preferred temperature.
* **Other Decor:** You can also add other decorative elements to the enclosure, such as fake plants, driftwood, and rocks. Make sure all decorations are non-toxic and free of sharp edges.
### E. Lighting
Emperor scorpions don’t require special lighting, as they are nocturnal and prefer dim conditions. However, providing a low-intensity light source can help you observe your scorpion’s behavior at night.
* **Red or Blue Light:** Red or blue LED lights are ideal for observing scorpions at night, as they are less likely to disturb their natural behavior.
* **Avoid Bright Lights:** Avoid using bright lights, as they can stress the scorpion.
* **Photoperiod:** Maintain a consistent photoperiod (day/night cycle) of around 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness.
## III. Feeding Your Emperor Scorpion
Emperor scorpions are carnivores and primarily feed on insects. Providing a varied and nutritious diet is essential for their health.
### A. Prey Items
* **Staple Foods:**
* **Crickets:** Crickets are the most common and readily available food source for emperor scorpions. Choose crickets that are appropriately sized for your scorpion (about the same size as the scorpion’s head).
* **Dubia Roaches:** Dubia roaches are another excellent staple food. They are nutritious, easy to breed, and don’t make noise like crickets.
* **Occasional Treats:**
* **Mealworms:** Mealworms can be offered as an occasional treat, but they are high in fat and should not be the primary food source.
* **Superworms:** Superworms are larger than mealworms and can be offered to adult scorpions. However, they are also high in fat.
* **Waxworms:** Waxworms are very high in fat and should only be offered as a rare treat.
* **Wild-Caught Insects:** Avoid feeding your scorpion wild-caught insects, as they may carry parasites or pesticides.
### B. Feeding Schedule and Amount
* **Feeding Frequency:** Juvenile scorpions (scorplings) should be fed 2-3 times per week. Adult scorpions can be fed once or twice per week.
* **Feeding Amount:** Offer enough prey items that the scorpion will eat in one sitting. Remove any uneaten prey items after 24 hours to prevent them from attracting mites or mold.
* **Signs of Overfeeding:** If your scorpion’s abdomen appears very large and swollen, you may be overfeeding it. Reduce the amount of food you offer.
* **Signs of Underfeeding:** If your scorpion’s abdomen appears shrunken, you may be underfeeding it. Increase the amount of food you offer.
### C. Gut-Loading and Dusting
* **Gut-Loading:** Gut-loading involves feeding your prey items a nutritious diet before offering them to your scorpion. This ensures that your scorpion is getting the maximum nutritional value from its food. You can gut-load crickets and roaches with commercially available gut-loading diets or with fresh fruits and vegetables.
* **Dusting:** Dusting prey items with calcium and vitamin D3 supplements is important for maintaining your scorpion’s bone health. Use a commercially available reptile calcium and vitamin D3 supplement and dust the prey items just before offering them to your scorpion.
### D. Offering Food
* **Live Feeding:** Most emperor scorpions will readily accept live prey. Simply drop the prey item into the enclosure and allow the scorpion to hunt it.
* **Dead Feeding:** If your scorpion is not interested in live prey, you can try offering it dead prey. You can kill the prey item by freezing it for a few hours before offering it to the scorpion using tweezers or tongs.
## IV. Handling Your Emperor Scorpion
While emperor scorpions are generally docile, it’s important to remember that they are still capable of stinging. Handling should be kept to a minimum and always performed with caution.
### A. Reasons to Avoid Handling
* **Stress:** Handling can be stressful for scorpions, especially if they are not used to it. Stress can weaken their immune system and make them more susceptible to illness.
* **Risk of Stinging:** Even though emperor scorpion venom is relatively mild, a sting can still be painful and cause localized symptoms. Allergic reactions are also possible.
* **Risk of Injury:** Dropping a scorpion can cause serious injuries, such as broken legs or a ruptured abdomen.
### B. Safe Handling Techniques (If Necessary)
If you must handle your scorpion, follow these safety precautions:
* **Use Tongs or a Cup:** The safest way to move a scorpion is to use long tongs or to gently coax it into a container, such as a plastic cup.
* **Gentle Approach:** Approach the scorpion slowly and gently. Avoid sudden movements or loud noises.
* **Support the Body:** If you must hold the scorpion, support its body with your hand. Do not grab it by the tail, as this can damage it.
* **Wash Your Hands:** Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling a scorpion.
### C. Recognizing Signs of Stress
* **Defensive Posture:** A scorpion that is feeling threatened may raise its tail and pinchers in a defensive posture.
* **Erratic Movements:** A stressed scorpion may move erratically or try to escape.
* **Loss of Appetite:** Stress can cause a scorpion to lose its appetite.
If you notice any of these signs of stress, stop handling the scorpion immediately and allow it to retreat to its hiding place.
## V. Maintaining a Clean and Healthy Enclosure
Regular maintenance is essential for preventing the build-up of harmful bacteria and fungi in the enclosure.
### A. Spot Cleaning
* **Frequency:** Spot clean the enclosure daily to remove any uneaten food, feces, or shed exoskeletons.
* **Tools:** Use tongs or a small shovel to remove waste materials.
### B. Substrate Changes
* **Frequency:** Replace the substrate every 3-6 months, depending on the size of the enclosure and the number of scorpions it houses.
* **Procedure:** Remove all decorations and the scorpion from the enclosure. Dispose of the old substrate and thoroughly clean the enclosure with a reptile-safe disinfectant. Allow the enclosure to dry completely before adding fresh substrate and returning the decorations and scorpion.
### C. Water Bowl Maintenance
* **Frequency:** Clean and refill the water bowl daily to prevent the growth of bacteria and algae.
* **Procedure:** Empty the water bowl and scrub it with a brush and warm, soapy water. Rinse the bowl thoroughly and refill it with fresh, dechlorinated water.
### D. Preventing Mites and Other Pests
* **Quarantine New Arrivals:** Quarantine new scorpions for at least 30 days before introducing them to an existing collection. This will help prevent the spread of mites and other pests.
* **Maintain Proper Humidity:** High humidity levels can promote the growth of mites and mold. Ensure the enclosure is properly ventilated and avoid over-misting.
* **Use Mite-Resistant Substrate:** Coconut fiber is naturally resistant to mites.
* **Predatory Mites:** If you do encounter mites, you can introduce predatory mites that will feed on the pest mites.
## VI. Common Health Problems and Prevention
While emperor scorpions are relatively hardy, they can be susceptible to certain health problems if their care is not optimal.
### A. Dehydration
* **Symptoms:** Sunken abdomen, lethargy, difficulty shedding.
* **Prevention:** Maintain proper humidity levels and provide a fresh water source.
* **Treatment:** Increase humidity and offer the scorpion a shallow dish of water to drink from.
### B. Mites
* **Symptoms:** Small, crawling insects on the scorpion’s body or in the enclosure.
* **Prevention:** Quarantine new arrivals and maintain proper humidity levels.
* **Treatment:** Use predatory mites or reptile-safe mite sprays.
### C. Fungal Infections
* **Symptoms:** White or gray patches on the scorpion’s body.
* **Prevention:** Maintain proper hygiene in the enclosure and avoid over-misting.
* **Treatment:** Use reptile-safe antifungal medications.
### D. Impaction
* **Symptoms:** Difficulty defecating, lethargy, loss of appetite.
* **Prevention:** Avoid using sand as a substrate and provide appropriately sized prey items.
* **Treatment:** Soak the scorpion in shallow, lukewarm water to help soften the impaction. In severe cases, veterinary intervention may be necessary.
### E. Molting Problems (Dysecdysis)
* **Symptoms:** Difficulty shedding, retained skin, deformed limbs.
* **Prevention:** Maintain proper humidity levels and provide a rough surface for the scorpion to rub against during molting.
* **Treatment:** Increase humidity and gently assist the scorpion with shedding using a damp cotton swab. Never force the skin off, as this can injure the scorpion.
## VII. Breeding Emperor Scorpions (Advanced)
Breeding emperor scorpions can be a rewarding experience, but it requires a significant commitment of time and resources. This section provides a brief overview of the breeding process. However, this should not be seen as a complete guide, and extensive research is required before attempting to breed emperor scorpions.
### A. Sexing Emperor Scorpions
* **Pectines:** The easiest way to sex emperor scorpions is by examining their pectines. Pectines are comb-like sensory organs located on the underside of the abdomen. Male emperor scorpions have longer pectines with more teeth than females.
* **Body Size:** Females tend to be larger and more robust than males.
### B. Introducing Mates
* **Timing:** Introduce a mature male and female during the breeding season (typically the rainy season in their natural habitat).
* **Supervision:** Monitor the pair closely during the introduction, as aggression can occur. Provide plenty of hiding places to allow the scorpions to escape from each other if necessary.
* **Courtship:** Emperor scorpion courtship involves a complex series of interactions, including a “promenade à deux,” where the male grasps the female’s pedipalps and leads her around.
### C. Gestation and Birth
* **Gestation Period:** The gestation period for emperor scorpions is typically 7-9 months.
* **Parthenogenesis:** Emperor scorpions are known to sometimes reproduce asexually through parthenogenesis. This occurs when a female gives birth to live young without mating.
* **Birth:** Emperor scorpions give birth to live young (scorplings). The scorplings are carried on their mother’s back for several weeks until they undergo their first molt.
### D. Raising Scorplings
* **Separation:** After the scorplings undergo their first molt, they should be separated from the mother to prevent cannibalism.
* **Housing:** Scorplings can be housed in small individual containers or in a larger container with plenty of hiding places.
* **Feeding:** Scorplings should be fed small prey items, such as pinhead crickets or fruit flies, 2-3 times per week.
## VIII. Conclusion
Emperor scorpions are fascinating and relatively easy-to-care-for pets that can bring years of enjoyment. By providing them with the proper environment, diet, and care, you can ensure that your emperor scorpion thrives in its captive environment. Remember to always handle scorpions with caution and to do your research before acquiring one. With a little bit of knowledge and effort, you can become a successful emperor scorpion keeper!