Forging Your Own Legend: A Comprehensive Guide to Crafting an Anvil
The anvil. A symbol of the blacksmith, a cornerstone of metalworking, and a testament to enduring strength. While readily available for purchase, the allure of crafting your own anvil, imbuing it with your own sweat and skill, is a powerful draw for any serious blacksmith. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the process, from selecting your materials and preparing your workspace to the final hardening and shaping of your very own anvil. Be warned: this is not a beginner’s project. It requires a solid understanding of blacksmithing techniques, access to heavy-duty equipment, and a healthy dose of patience. But the rewards – a custom-made anvil and the pride of creation – are well worth the effort.
I. Understanding the Anatomy of an Anvil
Before we begin hammering, let’s break down the key components of a typical blacksmith’s anvil. Understanding these parts will inform our decisions throughout the forging process:
- Face: The large, flat, hardened surface where most of your hammering will take place. It needs to be smooth, flat, and free of defects. This is typically the hardest part of the anvil.
- Horn: The conical projection extending from one end of the anvil. Used for bending, shaping curves, and creating round forms.
- Heel: The opposite end of the anvil from the horn. Often used for cutting, upsetting (thickening), and punching.
- Table (or Step): A flat area between the face and the horn or heel, often slightly softer than the face. Used for general forging and tool setting.
- Hardy Hole: A square hole located near the heel, used to hold various hardy tools like cut-off tools, bending jigs, and bottom swages.
- Pritchel Hole: A round hole, typically smaller than the hardy hole, located near the heel. Used for punching holes, drifting, and sometimes as a handle for moving the anvil (though this is discouraged).
- Body (or Waist): The main mass of the anvil, providing support and stability.
- Feet: The base of the anvil, providing a stable platform for mounting.
II. Choosing Your Materials
The choice of materials is crucial to the performance and longevity of your anvil. Ideally, you want a material that is:
- Hard: To resist denting and wear from hammering.
- Tough: To withstand impact without cracking or shattering.
- Resilient: To spring back slightly after each blow, improving forging efficiency.
- Weldable: If you are fabricating the anvil from multiple pieces.
Here are the most common options, ranked in terms of suitability (and cost):
- Drop Forged Tool Steel (e.g., 4140, 4340): This is the gold standard. Offers an excellent balance of hardness, toughness, and wear resistance. Can be hardened and tempered for optimal performance. The most expensive option but delivers the best results. Finding a single piece of this size can be difficult.
- High Carbon Steel (e.g., 1045, 1060, 1080): A good compromise between performance and cost. Can be hardened, although not as deeply as tool steel. Sufficient for most blacksmithing applications. Easier to find in larger sections than tool steel.
- Mild Steel (e.g., A36): Not ideal for the face, but acceptable for the body and base if a tool steel face is welded on. Too soft to be used as the sole material. Will quickly deform and dent. Only recommended if you plan on using a hardy face plate.
- Cast Iron: Absolutely unsuitable for an anvil. Cast iron is brittle and will crack under repeated hammering. Avoid at all costs.
- Railroad Rail: Often touted as a cheap alternative, railroad rail is usually a medium carbon steel, and may work okay in a pinch. However, it doesn’t have optimal hardness and is a very awkward shape to deal with. The profile makes it prone to tipping, and difficult to manipulate and weld. It may work in a pinch, but isn’t the best option.
Considerations for Material Selection:
- Size: Determine the size of the anvil you want. A general rule of thumb is to aim for an anvil that weighs at least 50 times the weight of your heaviest hammer. For a versatile anvil, 100-200 lbs is a good starting point.
- Availability: Can you source the material locally? Shipping large pieces of steel can be expensive.
- Budget: Tool steel can be expensive. Factor in the cost of the material when making your decision.
III. Preparing Your Workspace and Equipment
Forging an anvil is a demanding task that requires a well-equipped and safe workspace. Here’s a checklist of essential equipment and safety precautions:
Equipment:
- Forge: A substantial forge capable of heating large sections of steel to forging temperatures (around 2200-2400°F or 1200-1300°C). Propane forges and coal forges are both viable options, but the forge must be large enough to accommodate the workpiece.
- Anvil (Temporary): You’ll need an existing anvil to work on your anvil. A smaller, more portable anvil is sufficient for this purpose.
- Hammers: A variety of hammers, including a heavy sledgehammer (8-12 lbs), a lighter cross-peen hammer (2-3 lbs), and a rounding hammer.
- Tongs: An assortment of tongs to securely hold the workpiece during forging. Different jaw shapes and sizes will be needed to handle the various stages of the process.
- Hardy Tools: A hardy cut-off tool and a bottom fuller will be essential for shaping the anvil.
- Power Hammer (Optional): A power hammer can significantly speed up the forging process, especially for larger anvils.
- Welding Equipment (If Fabricating): A heavy-duty welder capable of welding thick sections of steel. A flux-core or stick welder is recommended. MIG welding is possible, but may require multiple passes.
- Grinding Equipment: An angle grinder with various grinding discs and flap discs for shaping and finishing the anvil.
- Drill Press: For drilling the pritchel hole.
- Cutting Torch (Oxy-Acetylene or Plasma): For cutting the initial shape of the anvil if you are starting from a larger block of steel.
- Measuring Tools: A tape measure, calipers, and a square for accurate measurements.
- Surface Grinder or Milling Machine (Optional): For achieving a perfectly flat face (particularly beneficial for tool steel faced anvils).
- Heat Treating Oven (Optional): For precise hardening and tempering. A large propane or electric oven is required.
- Quenching Tank: A large tank filled with quenching oil (e.g., Parks 50) for hardening the anvil face.
Safety Precautions:
- Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or a face shield at all times to protect your eyes from flying sparks and debris.
- Hearing Protection: Use earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing from the loud noise of hammering.
- Gloves: Wear heavy leather gloves to protect your hands from heat and burns.
- Apron: Wear a leather apron to protect your clothing and body from sparks and hot metal.
- Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling objects and hot metal.
- Ventilation: Ensure adequate ventilation in your workspace to remove smoke and fumes.
- Fire Safety: Keep a fire extinguisher and a bucket of water nearby in case of fire.
- First Aid Kit: Have a well-stocked first aid kit readily available.
IV. The Forging Process: Step-by-Step
The forging process will vary depending on whether you are starting from a single billet of steel or fabricating the anvil from multiple pieces. We will cover both scenarios.
A. Forging from a Single Billet
This is the most challenging but rewarding method. It requires a large billet of steel and significant forging skill.
- Heating: Heat the billet of steel to forging temperature (1200-1300°C or 2200-2400°F). This may require multiple heats, especially for larger billets. Heat it evenly.
- Drawing Out the Horn: Focus on one end of the billet and begin drawing out the horn using a combination of hammering and bottom fullers. Work the steel gradually, rotating the billet to maintain a consistent shape. This process may take several heats. Aim for a smooth, conical shape.
- Shaping the Heel: Repeat the process on the opposite end of the billet to shape the heel. The heel doesn’t need to be as precisely shaped as the horn, but ensure it is square and substantial.
- Forming the Body: With the horn and heel roughly shaped, focus on forging the body of the anvil. Use a heavy sledgehammer to shape the body, gradually working the steel towards the desired dimensions.
- Flattening the Face: Carefully flatten the face of the anvil using a combination of hammering and grinding. Use a straight edge to check for flatness. This is a critical step, as the face must be as flat and smooth as possible.
- Creating the Table: Shape the table (or step) between the face and the horn or heel. The table should be slightly softer than the face.
- Drilling the Pritchel Hole: Use a drill press to drill the pritchel hole. Ensure the hole is perpendicular to the face.
- Punching the Hardy Hole: This is the most difficult part. You can punch the hardy hole hot using a hardy punch and sledgehammer or machine it out using a mill or shaper. If punching hot, pre-drill a pilot hole to help guide the punch. Ensure the hardy hole is square and precisely sized to fit your hardy tools.
- Refining and Finishing: Use an angle grinder with various grinding discs and flap discs to refine the shape of the anvil and remove any imperfections.
- Heat Treating (Hardening and Tempering): This is the final and most crucial step. Heat the face of the anvil to the hardening temperature specified for your steel (consult a heat treating guide for specific temperatures). Quench the face in quenching oil. Temper the anvil to reduce brittleness and improve toughness. Tempering involves heating the steel to a lower temperature than hardening and allowing it to cool slowly. The tempering temperature will depend on the desired hardness and toughness.
B. Fabricating from Multiple Pieces
This method involves welding together multiple pieces of steel to create the anvil. It is generally easier than forging from a single billet, but requires good welding skills.
- Cutting the Pieces: Cut the various pieces of steel according to your design. This may include the face, horn, heel, body, and base. Use a cutting torch or plasma cutter for this step. A metal cutting bandsaw will give more accurate cuts, and is preferable if available.
- Welding the Body: Weld the pieces of the body together to form the main mass of the anvil. Use a heavy-duty welder and appropriate welding techniques for thick sections of steel. Ensure the welds are strong and free of defects. It is best to bevel all edges before welding.
- Welding the Horn and Heel: Weld the horn and heel to the body. Ensure they are securely attached and properly aligned.
- Welding the Face Plate: The most critical weld is the face plate. Ideally the face should be a single piece of tool steel. The edges must be properly beveled, and the weld made very carefully. Multiple passes will be needed. After welding, grind the weld smooth to give a continuous surface with the rest of the face plate.
- Creating the Table: Grind and shape the table between the face and the horn or heel.
- Drilling the Pritchel Hole: Use a drill press to drill the pritchel hole.
- Punching the Hardy Hole: The hardy hole can be drilled and broached, or an appropriately sized piece of square tubing can be welded in place before the base is welded on.
- Welding the Base: Weld the base to the body. Ensure it is square and stable.
- Grinding and Finishing: Use an angle grinder to smooth the welds and refine the shape of the anvil.
- Heat Treating the Face Plate: After the face plate is completely welded and ground, heat treat the entire anvil face, paying careful attention to the steel’s tempering requirements.
V. Heat Treating: Hardening and Tempering
Heat treating is the most critical step in crafting a durable and effective anvil. It involves hardening and tempering the steel to achieve the desired hardness and toughness. The specific temperatures and procedures will vary depending on the type of steel you are using. Consult a heat treating guide for detailed instructions.
Hardening:
- Heating: Heat the face of the anvil evenly to the hardening temperature. This temperature will vary depending on the steel type (e.g., around 1500-1550°F for 1080 steel).
- Quenching: Quench the face of the anvil in quenching oil. Use a rapid and consistent quenching motion.
Tempering:
- Heating: Heat the anvil to the tempering temperature. This temperature will also vary depending on the steel type and desired hardness (e.g., around 400-500°F for 1080 steel for a balance of hardness and toughness).
- Soaking: Hold the anvil at the tempering temperature for a specified amount of time (e.g., 1 hour per inch of thickness).
- Cooling: Allow the anvil to cool slowly in air.
Important Considerations for Heat Treating:
- Even Heating: Ensure the steel is heated evenly to prevent warping and cracking.
- Proper Quenching: Use the correct quenching medium and quenching technique for your steel type.
- Accurate Temperature Control: Use a pyrometer to accurately measure the temperature of the steel.
- Safety: Wear appropriate safety gear when handling hot steel and quenching oil.
VI. Finishing and Mounting
Once the anvil has been heat treated, it’s time for the final finishing touches and mounting.
- Final Grinding: Perform a final grinding to remove any scale or imperfections from the heat treating process. Pay particular attention to the face of the anvil, ensuring it is perfectly flat and smooth.
- Edge Rounding: Slightly round the edges of the face to prevent chipping.
- Mounting: Mount the anvil on a sturdy base. A traditional wooden stump is a good option, but a metal stand is also suitable. The height of the anvil should be such that your knuckles are level with the face when standing upright.
Mounting Options:
- Wooden Stump: A traditional and effective mounting option. Choose a dense hardwood such as oak or hickory. The stump should be at least as wide as the anvil and tall enough to bring the face to the correct height. Secure the anvil to the stump using chains or straps.
- Metal Stand: A more modern mounting option. Fabricate a sturdy metal stand from steel tubing or angle iron. Ensure the stand is stable and can support the weight of the anvil. Secure the anvil to the stand using bolts or clamps.
VII. Maintenance and Care
With proper care and maintenance, your hand-forged anvil will last for generations. Here are some tips to keep it in good condition:
- Keep it Clean: Regularly clean the face of the anvil with a wire brush to remove scale and debris.
- Oil the Face: Lightly oil the face of the anvil with a thin coat of oil to prevent rust.
- Avoid Dropping Tools: Avoid dropping tools on the face of the anvil, as this can cause dents and chips.
- Use a Soft Hammer: When striking directly on the face of the anvil, use a soft hammer (e.g., copper or brass) to avoid damaging the surface.
- Address Dents and Chips: If dents or chips do occur, they can be repaired by welding or grinding.
VIII. Conclusion
Crafting your own anvil is a challenging but immensely rewarding endeavor. It requires a significant investment of time, skill, and resources. However, the end result is a custom-made tool that will serve you well for years to come, a testament to your skill and dedication to the craft of blacksmithing. Good luck, and happy forging!