How to Add a Professional Binding to Your Handbag

Handmade handbags are a wonderful way to express personal style, but sometimes that extra touch is needed to elevate them from “homemade” to “handmade with pride.” One key technique that can make a dramatic difference is adding a binding. Binding not only conceals raw edges, providing a clean, finished look, but it also adds durability and can even introduce a subtle pop of color or texture.

Whether you’re a beginner eager to learn a new skill or an experienced sewist looking to refine your techniques, this guide will walk you through the process of adding binding to a handbag, step-by-step.

What You’ll Need:

• Your Handbag: The bag should be mostly complete, with all seams sewn except for the final edge you want to bind.
• Binding Fabric: Choose a fabric that complements your handbag. Cotton, linen, or even a contrasting material can work well. Pre-washing your binding fabric is crucial to prevent shrinkage later.
• Binding Cutting Tool: A rotary cutter, cutting mat, and ruler are recommended for precise cuts.
• Scissors: For trimming threads and making small snips.
• Pins or Clips: To hold the binding in place.
• Sewing Machine: With a reliable stitch setting.
• Thread: Matching or contrasting to your binding fabric and bag.
• Iron and Ironing Board: For pressing.
• Optional: Bias Tape Maker: Can simplify the process of creating bias binding.

Types of Binding:

Before we begin, let’s briefly touch on two common types of binding:

• Straight Binding: Strips of fabric cut along the straight grain of the fabric. Great for straight edges.
• Bias Binding: Strips of fabric cut at a 45-degree angle to the grain (on the bias). This gives the binding more flexibility, making it ideal for curved edges.

For most handbags, especially those with curves, bias binding is recommended.

Let’s Get Started: Steps to Adding Binding

1. Prepare Your Binding:

• Calculate Length: Measure the perimeter of the edge you want to bind. Add a few extra inches for overlap.
• Cut the Binding:
  • For Bias Binding: Use your rotary cutter and ruler to cut strips of fabric at a 45-degree angle to the grain, typically 1.5 to 2 inches wide (or your desired width). Sew the strips end to end to achieve the needed length.
  • For Straight Binding: Cut strips along the grain.
• Press the Binding:
  • For Double-Fold Binding: Fold the binding in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Then, open the fold and fold each long edge toward the center crease, pressing again. This creates a neat, double-fold binding.
  • For Single-Fold Binding: Fold the binding in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.

2. Attach the Binding:

• Align the Binding: With the right side of the binding facing the wrong side of your handbag edge, align the raw edge of the binding to the raw edge of the handbag. Leave a 2-3 inch tail of binding unattached to start.
• Pin or Clip: Secure the binding to the bag using pins or clips, working your way around the entire edge. For curved edges, ease the binding slightly.
• Stitch: Sew the binding to the bag, using a seam allowance that’s slightly smaller than the width of your folded binding. For example, if your binding is folded to 1/2 inch wide, stitch with slightly less than a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

3. Finish the Binding:

• Wrap Around: Fold the binding over the raw edge of the handbag to the right side, covering your raw seam.
• Pin or Clip Again: Secure the folded edge of the binding in place, making sure it’s covering the previous stitch line.
• Stitch in the Ditch or Topstitch:
  • Stitch in the Ditch: Sew from the right side of the bag, stitching in the “ditch” of the seam where the binding meets the bag. This should catch the binding on the back. This method is a clean, professional look.
  • Topstitch: Sew from the right side of the bag, approximately 1/8 inch to 1/16 inch from the folded edge of the binding. This is a very visible stitching line, so a steady hand and matching thread is desired.
• Overlap Ends: Overlap the beginning and end of the binding by 1 inch and tuck the raw edge in. Stitch the overlap, catching the edge and securing it.

4. Press and Admire:

• Give your finished binding a final press with your iron to create crisp, professional lines.

Tips and Tricks for Success:

• Practice Makes Perfect: Experiment with scraps of fabric to get a feel for the process before tackling your handbag.
• Use a Walking Foot: If using a sewing machine, a walking foot can help feed multiple layers of fabric evenly.
• Go Slow: Especially when sewing curves, take your time and adjust the fabric as you go.
• Don’t Be Afraid to Repin: If the binding slips or looks uneven, remove the pins and try again.
• Consider Pre-Made Bias Tape: If cutting bias binding seems daunting, you can purchase pre-made bias tape.

Adding binding to your handbag is a rewarding skill that will significantly elevate the quality and appearance of your creations. By carefully following these steps, you’ll be able to achieve a professional finish that you can be truly proud of. So, grab your fabric, gather your supplies, and get ready to add the perfect finishing touch to your next handmade handbag! Happy sewing!