How to Banish Brass: A Comprehensive Guide to Removing Ash Tones from Hair
Ashy tones in hair, while sometimes desired, can often appear unwanted, dull, and even aging. Whether you’ve ended up with an unintentionally cool tone after dyeing your hair, or your blonde or gray hair has developed an ashy cast over time, you’re likely looking for ways to warm things up and restore a healthy, vibrant look. This comprehensive guide provides you with detailed steps, expert tips, and product recommendations to effectively remove ash tones from your hair and achieve the color you desire.
Understanding Ash Tones and Why They Appear
Before diving into the removal process, it’s crucial to understand why ashy tones appear in the first place. Here are a few common reasons:
* **Incorrect Hair Dye:** This is the most frequent culprit. Using a hair dye that’s too cool-toned or contains excessive blue or violet pigments can lead to an ashy result. This is especially true if your natural hair color is warm-toned (red, orange, or gold).
* **Over-Toning:** Toners are used to neutralize unwanted undertones after bleaching or lightening the hair. However, overusing toner, especially purple or blue-based toners, can easily deposit too much cool pigment, resulting in ashy or even lavender hues.
* **Hard Water:** Hard water contains high levels of minerals like calcium and magnesium, which can react with hair dye and cause it to fade or develop unwanted tones, including ashiness. These minerals can also build up on the hair, creating a dull, lifeless appearance.
* **Environmental Factors:** Sun exposure, chlorine, and pollution can all contribute to the development of unwanted tones in the hair. These elements can oxidize hair dye pigments, leading to changes in color.
* **Medications:** Certain medications can affect hair color and contribute to unwanted tones, although this is less common than the other causes listed above.
* **The Hair’s Underlying Pigment (Undertones):** Every hair color, even natural, has underlying pigments. When you lighten your hair, these undertones are revealed. Brunettes naturally have red/orange undertones, while blondes have yellow undertones. Cool-toned dyes don’t always adequately neutralize these undertones, leading to a muddy or ashy appearance.
Identifying Ash Tones in Your Hair
It’s important to accurately identify ash tones before attempting to remove them. Ashy hair often appears:
* **Dull and Lifeless:** It lacks the shine and vibrancy of healthy hair.
* **Grayish or Muddy:** Instead of a clear, bright color, it has a muted, almost gray or muddy appearance.
* **Flat:** It lacks dimension and depth.
* **Cool-Toned:** It has a noticeable cool undertone, leaning towards blue, violet, or green, rather than warm tones like gold, red, or orange.
* **Sometimes greenish:** In some cases, ashiness can present a slight greenish cast. This is particularly noticeable on lighter hair.
If you’re unsure whether your hair is truly ashy, compare it to pictures of hair colors you admire. This can help you determine if the tones in your hair are aligning with your desired look. Consulting a professional stylist is always a good idea for an accurate assessment.
Methods for Removing Ash Tones from Hair
Here are several effective methods you can use to remove ash tones from your hair, ranging from simple home remedies to professional treatments:
1. Washing with a Clarifying Shampoo
Clarifying shampoos are designed to remove buildup from the hair, including mineral deposits, product residue, and unwanted pigments. Using a clarifying shampoo can help fade the ashy tones and reveal your hair’s natural warmth.
**How to Use:**
1. **Wet your hair thoroughly:** Use lukewarm water.
2. **Apply a generous amount of clarifying shampoo:** Focus on the areas where the ashiness is most noticeable.
3. **Massage the shampoo into your scalp and hair:** Work it into a rich lather.
4. **Leave the shampoo on for 3-5 minutes:** This allows it to effectively break down the buildup.
5. **Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water:** Make sure all the shampoo is removed.
6. **Follow with a moisturizing conditioner:** Clarifying shampoos can be drying, so it’s essential to replenish moisture.
7. **Repeat 1-2 times a week:** Monitor your hair’s condition and adjust the frequency as needed.
**Important Considerations:**
* Clarifying shampoos can be drying, so it’s crucial to use a hydrating conditioner afterward.
* Avoid using clarifying shampoo too frequently, as it can strip your hair of its natural oils.
* Look for clarifying shampoos that are sulfate-free to minimize dryness.
**Product Recommendations:**
* **Neutrogena Anti-Residue Clarifying Shampoo:** A classic and effective option for removing buildup.
* **Paul Mitchell Shampoo Two:** A gentle clarifying shampoo that’s safe for color-treated hair.
* **Ouai Detox Shampoo:** A clarifying shampoo that also contains chelating agents to remove mineral deposits.
2. Using a Warm-Toned Shampoo or Conditioner
Warm-toned shampoos and conditioners contain pigments that can counteract ashiness and add warmth to your hair. These products typically have red, orange, or gold undertones.
**How to Use:**
1. **Choose a warm-toned shampoo or conditioner:** Select a product that complements your desired hair color.
2. **Shampoo or condition your hair as usual:** Follow the instructions on the product label.
3. **Leave the product on for a few minutes:** Allow the warm pigments to deposit onto your hair.
4. **Rinse thoroughly:** Make sure all the product is removed.
5. **Use regularly:** Incorporate warm-toned shampoos and conditioners into your hair care routine to maintain warmth.
**Important Considerations:**
* Start with a subtle warm-toned product and gradually increase the intensity if needed.
* Avoid using products that are too orange or red, as they can create brassiness.
* Look for products that are specifically designed for your hair color (e.g., warm blonde shampoo).
**Product Recommendations:**
* **Redken Color Extend Magnetics Shampoo and Conditioner:** Helps maintain color vibrancy and adds warmth.
* **Aveda Madder Root Shampoo:** A color-enhancing shampoo that adds red and brown tones to dark hair.
* **Joico Color Infuse Red Shampoo:** Specifically designed to enhance red tones in hair.
3. Applying a Hair Mask with Warm Ingredients
Certain ingredients have natural warming properties that can help counteract ashiness. Applying a hair mask with these ingredients can gradually add warmth and shine to your hair.
**DIY Hair Mask Recipes:**
* **Honey and Cinnamon Mask:** Honey is a natural humectant that attracts moisture, while cinnamon has warming properties that can add subtle red tones.
* **Ingredients:** 2 tablespoons of honey, 1 teaspoon of cinnamon powder, 2 tablespoons of olive oil.
* **Instructions:** Mix all ingredients together until a smooth paste forms. Apply to damp hair, focusing on the areas with the most ashiness. Leave on for 30-60 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water and follow with conditioner.
* **Coconut Oil and Paprika Mask:** Coconut oil is deeply moisturizing, while paprika contains natural pigments that can add warmth.
* **Ingredients:** 2 tablespoons of coconut oil, 1/2 teaspoon of paprika powder.
* **Instructions:** Melt the coconut oil slightly. Mix in the paprika powder until well combined. Apply to damp hair, focusing on the areas with the most ashiness. Leave on for 30-60 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water and follow with shampoo and conditioner.
* **Carrot Juice Mask:** Carrot juice contains beta-carotene, a pigment that can add warmth and shine to the hair. This is best for those with blonde or lighter shades of brown hair.
* **Ingredients:** 1/2 cup of fresh carrot juice, 1 tablespoon of coconut oil (optional).
* **Instructions:** Mix carrot juice with coconut oil (if using). Apply to damp hair, ensuring even distribution. Cover your hair with a shower cap. Leave on for 30-60 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water and follow with shampoo and conditioner.
**Important Considerations:**
* Always perform a patch test before applying a DIY hair mask to ensure you’re not allergic to any of the ingredients.
* Be mindful of the potential for staining, especially with ingredients like paprika. Wear old clothes and protect your surfaces.
* Results may vary depending on your hair type and the severity of the ashiness.
4. Using a Hair Gloss or Toner with Warm Pigments
Hair glosses and toners are semi-permanent hair color treatments that can be used to adjust the tone of your hair. Opting for a gloss or toner with warm pigments can effectively neutralize ashiness and add shine.
**How to Use:**
1. **Choose a warm-toned gloss or toner:** Select a product that contains gold, red, or copper pigments.
2. **Follow the instructions on the product label:** Application methods may vary depending on the product.
3. **Apply the gloss or toner to clean, damp hair:** Ensure even distribution.
4. **Leave the product on for the recommended time:** Typically 10-20 minutes.
5. **Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water:** Make sure all the product is removed.
6. **Condition your hair:** Replenish moisture after the treatment.
**Important Considerations:**
* Read the product instructions carefully before applying.
* Perform a strand test to ensure you’re happy with the color result.
* Don’t leave the gloss or toner on for longer than recommended, as this can lead to unwanted tones.
**Product Recommendations:**
* **Redken Shades EQ Gloss:** A popular and versatile hair gloss that comes in a variety of warm tones.
* **Wella Color Touch:** A demi-permanent hair color that can be used as a toner to add warmth.
* **IGK Color Depositing Mask:** Available in various shades, including those that can add warmth and neutralize ash tones.
5. Lowlighting with Warm Tones
If the ashiness is primarily concentrated in certain areas of your hair, lowlighting with warm tones can be an effective solution. Lowlights are darker strands of hair that are added to create depth and dimension. Choosing warm-toned lowlights can help counteract the ashiness and add warmth to your overall hair color.
**How to Do It:**
* **Consult a professional stylist:** Lowlighting is best done by a professional to ensure accurate placement and color matching.
* **Choose warm-toned lowlight colors:** Opt for shades that are one or two levels darker than your base color and have warm undertones (e.g., golden brown, caramel, copper).
* **Have the stylist apply the lowlights strategically:** Focus on the areas where the ashiness is most noticeable.
**Important Considerations:**
* Lowlighting can be a more permanent solution than other methods, so it’s important to choose the colors carefully.
* Professional application is essential to avoid harsh lines or uneven color distribution.
6. Sun-In or Lemon Juice (Use with Caution)
These are natural lightening agents that can subtly warm up the hair over time. However, use them with extreme caution, as they can be damaging to the hair if overused. They are better suited for lighter hair colors and achieving very subtle warmth.
**How to Use (Lemon Juice):**
1. **Mix lemon juice with water:** Dilute the lemon juice to prevent damage (1 part lemon juice to 2 parts water).
2. **Apply to your hair:** Focus on areas you want to lighten and warm up.
3. **Sit in the sun:** The sun’s heat activates the lightening effect. Limit sun exposure to 30-60 minutes.
4. **Rinse thoroughly:** Wash out the lemon juice completely.
5. **Condition deeply:** Lemon juice can be very drying, so a deep conditioning treatment is crucial.
**How to Use (Sun-In):**
1. **Follow the product instructions carefully:** Each Sun-In product may have slightly different instructions.
2. **Apply to your hair:** Focus on the areas you want to lighten and warm up.
3. **Use a hairdryer or sit in the sun:** Heat activates the lightening effect.
4. **Rinse thoroughly:** Wash out the Sun-In completely.
5. **Condition deeply:** Sun-In can also be drying, so a deep conditioning treatment is crucial.
**Important Considerations:**
* These methods can be very damaging to the hair, especially with frequent use.
* Always use with caution and monitor your hair’s condition closely.
* Perform a strand test before applying to your entire head.
* These methods are best suited for those with lighter hair colors.
* Lemon juice can make your hair more susceptible to sun damage. Always use sunscreen on your hair if you’re using lemon juice.
7. Professional Color Correction
If you’ve tried several methods without success, or if the ashiness is severe, it’s best to seek professional help. A qualified hairstylist can assess your hair color and determine the best course of action to correct the unwanted tones.
**What to Expect:**
* **Consultation:** The stylist will examine your hair and discuss your desired color goals.
* **Color Removal:** The stylist may use a color remover to lift the unwanted ash tones.
* **Color Correction:** The stylist will apply a new color to achieve your desired shade and warmth.
* **Toning:** A toner may be used to fine-tune the color and neutralize any remaining unwanted tones.
* **Deep Conditioning:** A deep conditioning treatment will help restore moisture and health to your hair.
**Important Considerations:**
* Color correction can be a lengthy and expensive process.
* Choose a stylist who specializes in color correction and has experience with removing unwanted tones.
* Be prepared to discuss your hair history with the stylist, including any previous color treatments.
Preventing Ash Tones in the Future
Once you’ve successfully removed the ash tones from your hair, it’s important to take steps to prevent them from returning. Here are some tips:
* **Choose the Right Hair Dye:** Select hair dyes that are warm-toned or neutral, rather than cool-toned. If you’re unsure, consult with a stylist.
* **Avoid Over-Toning:** Use toner sparingly and only when necessary. If you’re toning at home, follow the instructions carefully and don’t leave the toner on for longer than recommended.
* **Use a Water Filter:** Install a water filter in your shower to remove minerals and other impurities that can contribute to ashiness.
* **Protect Your Hair from the Sun:** Wear a hat or use a UV protectant spray when spending time in the sun.
* **Use Color-Safe Products:** Use shampoos, conditioners, and styling products that are specifically designed for color-treated hair. These products are formulated to be gentle and prevent color fading.
* **Regular Conditioning Treatments:** Keep your hair moisturized and healthy to prevent color from fading and developing unwanted tones.
* **Use Purple Shampoo Sparingly:** If you’re blonde or gray, use purple shampoo sparingly to maintain brightness without overdoing the cool tones. Use it only when you notice yellow tones appearing, and alternate with a moisturizing shampoo.
* **Consider a Glaze:** A clear glaze can add shine and protect your hair color from fading. It acts as a sealant, helping to lock in the color and prevent it from being stripped away by environmental factors.
Conclusion
Removing ash tones from hair requires patience, persistence, and the right approach. By understanding the causes of ashiness and implementing the methods outlined in this guide, you can effectively restore warmth and vibrancy to your hair. Remember to prioritize the health of your hair throughout the process and consult with a professional stylist if you’re unsure about any of the steps. With a little care and attention, you can achieve the beautiful, warm-toned hair you’ve always desired. Good luck!