How to Make an Authentic Roman Toga: A Step-by-Step Guide

The Roman toga, a garment that evokes images of senators, emperors, and citizens of ancient Rome, is more than just a piece of fabric; it’s a symbol of status, citizenship, and participation in the Roman world. While modern interpretations often simplify the toga into a bedsheet-like drape, the authentic toga was a complex and precisely draped garment. This guide will walk you through the process of creating a reasonably accurate Roman toga, exploring the historical nuances and providing detailed instructions to help you achieve an authentic look. Making an authentic toga can seem daunting but is very possible with simple tools and some careful effort.

Understanding the Roman Toga: More Than Just a Sheet

Before we begin, it’s crucial to understand what made the Roman toga unique and distinguishable from other draped garments. The toga was not simply a rectangle of fabric tossed over the shoulder. Here are some key characteristics:

• Shape: It was not a perfect rectangle, but rather a semi-circular or elliptical shape. This shape is critical for achieving the correct drape and ensuring the toga hangs properly.
• Size: The size of the toga was considerable, usually around 5 to 7 meters in length and 2 to 3 meters wide. It needed to be large enough to wrap around the body multiple times while still allowing for movement.
• Fabric: Traditionally made from wool, the fabric was not light or flimsy. The weight and texture of the wool were important for holding the pleats and shaping the folds. Finer wool was used for more formal and prestigious togas, while coarser wool might have been used for everyday use.
• Drape: The toga was draped, not sewn or pinned together (with a few notable exceptions on the ‘sinus’ of the toga). The draping method and the way the fabric was handled were vital to its appearance.
• Types of Togas: While this guide focuses on a general ‘citizen’ toga (toga pura), it’s worth noting that there were different types of togas based on status and occasion, such as the toga praetexta (with a purple stripe) worn by magistrates and boys, or the toga picta (embroidered) worn by emperors and generals during triumphs.

Materials You Will Need

To make your own toga, you will need the following materials:

• Fabric: A large piece of heavy, non-stretchy fabric. Wool is the most historically accurate option, but it can be difficult and expensive to work with. A thick linen or a cotton-linen blend can be a good alternative. You will need approximately 5 to 7 meters in length and 2 to 3 meters in width. A larger size tends to be more manageable for achieving the right drape, especially on taller individuals.
• Measuring tape: Essential for accurate measurements.
• Scissors or rotary cutter: For cutting the fabric.
• Chalk or fabric marker: To mark cutting lines on the fabric.
• Optional: A large table or clear floor space to lay out your fabric.
• Optional: A Roman belt (cingulum) can be used to secure the toga and provide a more authentic look but is not required for the basic drape.
• Optional: Safety pins or small, inconspicuous pins can help keep the fabric in place while learning to drape, but ideally you should be able to drape it without them.

Creating the Semi-Circular Shape

The first step is to create the semi-circular (or slightly elliptical) shape of the toga from your rectangular fabric piece. This is arguably the most critical step as the shape determines how the toga will drape and fall. The goal is to create a shape that will wrap well and sit comfortably around your body.

Method 1: Simple Semi-Circle

1. Lay out the fabric: Lay your fabric out flat on a clean, large surface. Ideally, you will need a surface that is at least slightly longer than half the length of your fabric and just as wide. Ensure it is free of wrinkles and creases.
2. Find the center: Find the center point of the length of your fabric and mark it with chalk or fabric marker.
3. Draw a curve: Using a measuring tape, mark points at equal distances from the center point along the entire length of the fabric. The distance you choose will determine the overall size and depth of the curve. You may want to start with a distance equal to approximately half the width of your fabric. For example, if your fabric is 2 meters wide, use a distance of 1 meter to create your curve.
4. Connect the points: Connect these marked points with a curved line using your chalk or marker. The goal is to create a gentle curve, not a sharp one.
5. Cut the curve: Carefully cut along the curved line. You should now have a piece of fabric that resembles a semi-circle (or half an ellipse).

Method 2: The Elliptical Shape

The Elliptical shape is slightly more accurate to some interpretations of the toga. It requires a bit more precision but results in a more authentic shape and drape. This method attempts to approximate the elliptical cut more closely, ensuring a more authentic drape.

1. Lay out the fabric: Lay your fabric out flat on a clean, large surface, as in the previous method. Ensure the fabric is flat and crease-free.
2. Mark the center point: As before, find and mark the center of your fabric’s length.
3. Mark semi-major and semi-minor axis: From the center point, mark two distances. One going along the length of the fabric. This would be half the length of your fabric. The other going across the width. This is half the width of your fabric. These become your semi-major (length) and semi-minor (width) axis respectively.
4. Draw the ellipse: You can use a pin, string, and a marker to approximate the ellipse, where the two pins represent the foci of the ellipse. However for our purpose, it’s sufficient to sketch a curve, starting from where your length axis terminates, smoothly going through the edge of where the width axis terminates and connecting with the other point where your length axis terminates.
5. Cut the curve: Carefully cut along the elliptical curve that you have just sketched.

Important Note: When cutting your fabric, always err on the side of making it a little bit larger initially. You can always trim more later if needed. The goal is to make the curved edge as smooth as possible, as any unevenness will be apparent when draped.

Draping the Toga: The Authentic Way

Now for the most exciting part – draping the toga! This is where practice and patience come in. This can be a bit tricky the first few times, so don’t be discouraged if it doesn’t look perfect at first. The goal is to have it sit correctly on the body and to create that distinctive folded look. The following method gives a reasonably authentic drape for a classic Roman Toga Pura. Remember that historical depictions often show subtle variations.

The following steps are designed to be done without the assistance of pins or clasps. This is how to drape a classical Roman toga:

1. Prepare the fabric: Lay your semi-circular/elliptical toga flat. You can either lay it on the floor or drape it over a large table. The goal is to be able to pick up the fabric with both hands without the fabric bunching up too much.
2. Find the midpoint: Identify the center point of the curved edge. This is very important as it will be the starting point for our drape.
3. The first drape (left shoulder): Hold the center point of the curved edge of your toga against the front of your left shoulder. Let the rest of the toga hang down your back. The fabric should fall behind your back almost to the ground.
4. Pull across the chest: Now, take the end of the fabric hanging down your back and bring it across your chest, going under your right arm, and towards your left hip. This will form a diagonal line across your chest.
5. The umbo and sinus: As the fabric is coming from under your right arm and towards your left hip, fold a section of the fabric (about 20-30 cm or 8-12 inches) at the level of your hip so that it drapes over the first layer (diagonal line) . This bulge is the ‘umbo’. The fabric will now form a kind of shallow pouch as it comes around to your left side. This shallow pouch is the ‘sinus’. This is also a way to adjust how tightly the toga fits around the chest. The deeper the pouch, the more room around the chest and upper torso. The shallower the pouch, the tighter the fit around the chest and upper torso. This is one of the more challenging parts of the drape, so it may take some practice. Try to ensure the bulge of the ‘umbo’ is not too large, as this can make the rest of the drape look awkward. This part of the fabric should drape loosely but not be too floppy. Some have suggested that the umbo may have been folded and twisted slightly in order to create the desired shape and to secure it in place for the next step.
6. Drape over the left shoulder: Take the fabric that is now on your left hip and bring it up over your left shoulder. This should be roughly the same part of the shoulder that you started at in step 3, but this time it goes from the front and over the shoulder to the back. Try to ensure that the edge of the fabric is roughly at the front of the shoulder, so that it doesn’t sit too far back on your shoulder. This creates a second layer of fabric across the left shoulder.
7. The final drape: Now, the remainder of the fabric should be hanging down your back. Take this last part of the fabric, bring it around to the front, and drape it over your left shoulder so it hangs down to your knees or calf. Adjust the fabric at your shoulder so that the two layers of fabric on your left shoulder sit together without appearing to be messy or too bunched up. You should have a sort of waterfall effect hanging down your back with this section of fabric.
8. Adjust: Make adjustments to the drape so that the fabric flows evenly and hangs well. The front and back layers should appear balanced and symmetrical.

Important Tips for Draping:

• Practice: Draping the toga requires practice. Don’t be discouraged if you don’t get it right the first time. Watch videos of people draping a toga, and try it out over and over until it feels more comfortable. It is easier with the fabric when you are moving and not staying completely still.
• Balance: Focus on keeping the fabric balanced across your body so it doesn’t slip or fall off.
• Movement: The toga was meant to be worn while walking and moving. Move around a little after you’ve draped it to see if it needs further adjustment. The fabric should fall in a way that is easy to move in.
• Adjust the Umbo: Experiment with the size and position of the ‘umbo’ as it impacts how the fabric drapes. The fold should be neither too prominent nor too flat. The umbo helps keep the ‘sinus’ in place.
• Patience: This process may take several attempts to perfect. There is no single ‘correct’ way to drape the toga, as it would have varied based on personal preference, occasion, and individual physique.

Optional Accessories

While the toga itself is a complete garment, there are optional accessories that can enhance your Roman look. Here are a few examples:

• Cingulum (Belt): A leather belt can be worn around the waist to secure the toga and add structure. It can help prevent the fabric from moving around too much and can enhance the silhouette. A cingulum is very useful for holding the base layer of the sinus firmly in place and will also give a better overall silhouette to the wearer.
• Calcei (Shoes): Roman-style sandals or shoes can complete your authentic look. The style of shoe would depend on the status of the wearer.
• Toga Praetexta: If you wish to make a Toga Praetexta (worn by magistrates and children), you would need to add a purple stripe of fabric to the edge of the toga. The stripe should be about 5 cm wide.
• Toga Picta: The toga picta (worn by emperors and generals during triumphs) would have had extensive embroidered elements.

Additional Notes and Considerations

Here are some additional tips and notes to help you make your toga experience more enjoyable and successful:

• Fabric Choice: While wool is traditional, it can be expensive and difficult to work with. Cotton or linen blends are more accessible and easier to care for. A heavy weave is important to get the right drape. Avoid lightweight and flimsy fabrics.
• Color: Traditionally, the toga pura was white or off-white. The colour of the fabric depended on how it was dyed and the kind of wool that was used.
• Practice Draping: As mentioned before, draping takes practice. Don’t be afraid to try multiple times until you get the hang of it.
• Study Resources: Looking at statues and illustrations of Romans wearing togas can help you visualise how they should drape and can give you some ideas on different ways to position the umbo.
• Authenticity vs. Practicality: While this guide aims for authenticity, it’s always a balance between historical accuracy and practicality. If you are using the toga for an event or costume, it might be useful to use some unobtrusive safety pins to keep it in place, especially if you will be moving around a lot.
• Helpful Visuals: Look for online images or videos of people draping a toga to see how each step should look.
• Size Matters: The size of your fabric is critical to the success of the drape. Always err on the side of getting a larger piece of fabric. You can always trim it later if needed. If it’s too small, it will be impossible to achieve the correct draped look.

Conclusion

Making an authentic Roman toga can be a rewarding experience, connecting you with the past and giving you a tangible piece of Roman history. While the process requires patience and practice, the result is a truly unique garment that will impress and engage. By understanding the shape of the fabric and the draping technique, you can create a classic Roman toga. Whether for a theatrical performance, a historical reenactment, or just for fun, wearing a toga you’ve created will give you a sense of the grandeur and legacy of Ancient Rome. This guide provides a foundation for creating a toga and once you get the hang of it, you’ll be able to adapt the design as you wish.

Remember that the most important thing is to have fun and enjoy the process. If you encounter challenges, try to be patient and try again. Eventually, you’ll learn all the tips and tricks required to drape a toga with confidence and grace.