How to Perfectly Line a Dress: A Step-by-Step Guide

Lining a dress can elevate it from a simple garment to a sophisticated, well-structured piece. A lining not only adds comfort by creating a smooth layer against your skin, but it also improves the drape, conceals inner construction, and extends the life of your dress. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the process of lining a dress, covering everything from fabric selection to the final stitch.

Why Line a Dress?

Before we dive into the how-to, let’s quickly recap why lining a dress is a worthwhile endeavor:

* **Comfort:** A lining provides a barrier between the outer fabric and your skin, preventing irritation from rough or scratchy materials.
* **Improved Drape:** Lining adds weight and structure, allowing the dress to hang beautifully.
* **Concealed Seams:** It hides seam allowances, interfacing, and other construction details for a clean, professional finish.
* **Opacity:** Lining can make sheer fabrics wearable by providing modesty.
* **Durability:** It protects the outer fabric from wear and tear, extending the dress’s lifespan.
* **Warmth:** Adds a layer of insulation for cooler weather.

Choosing the Right Lining Fabric

Selecting the appropriate lining fabric is crucial for a successful result. Consider the following factors:

* **Weight:** The lining fabric should be lighter than or equal to the weight of the fashion fabric. A heavier lining can distort the shape of the dress.
* **Fiber Content:** Choose a fiber content that complements the fashion fabric. For example, a silk dress would benefit from a silk or rayon lining.
* **Weave:** A smooth, slippery weave like satin, crepe de chine, or rayon twill is ideal for easy layering and movement.
* **Color:** Select a color that either matches the fashion fabric or complements it. A neutral color like nude, white, or black is often a safe choice. For darker, patterned fabrics, a matching color from the pattern can be a great choice. For lighter and brighter colored fabrics, ensure the lining doesn’t show through. Hold the lining fabric beneath the fashion fabric in direct sunlight to check for transparency.
* **Breathability:** Especially for summer dresses, opt for breathable lining fabrics like cotton lawn, voile, or silk.

Here are some popular lining fabric options:

* **Rayon:** A versatile and affordable option with a smooth drape.
* **Acetate:** Similar to rayon, but more resistant to wrinkles.
* **Silk:** A luxurious choice with excellent drape and breathability.
* **Polyester:** Durable and wrinkle-resistant, but less breathable than natural fibers.
* **Cotton Lawn:** Lightweight and breathable, ideal for summer dresses.
* **Batiste:** A very fine, lightweight cotton fabric, often used for baby clothes and delicate linings.
* **Ambiance lining:** This is a high quality polyester lining that drapes like silk but is more durable and less expensive.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

* Dress pattern
* Fashion fabric
* Lining fabric
* Matching thread
* Sewing machine
* Scissors or rotary cutter
* Pins
* Hand sewing needle
* Iron and ironing board
* Measuring tape
* Seam ripper
* Tailor’s chalk or fabric marker
* Clear ruler or pattern master

Step-by-Step Guide to Lining a Dress

This guide assumes you’re using a commercial dress pattern. If you’re drafting your own pattern, the principles remain the same.

Step 1: Prepare Your Pattern and Fabric

1. **Choose your Pattern:** Decide on the dress pattern you wish to line. Check that the pattern pieces have seam allowances included. If you’re adapting a pattern that wasn’t originally designed to be lined, you may need to make some adjustments (more on that later).
2. **Cut out the Pattern Pieces:** Cut out all the pattern pieces for the dress from the paper pattern, including the bodice front, bodice back, skirt front, skirt back, sleeves (if applicable), and any facings or other details.
3. **Prepare the Fabric:** Pre-wash and iron both your fashion fabric and your lining fabric to prevent shrinkage later. This step is crucial, especially for natural fibers.
4. **Lay out the Pattern Pieces:** Following the pattern’s layout guide, arrange the pattern pieces on both the fashion fabric and the lining fabric. Be sure to align the grainlines correctly.
5. **Pin and Cut:** Pin the pattern pieces securely to the fabric and cut them out carefully. Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter for precise cuts. Transfer all pattern markings to both the fashion fabric and the lining fabric using tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker.

Step 2: Construct the Lining

The lining is essentially a simplified version of the dress. You’ll sew it together in the same way as the dress, but you may omit certain details like pockets or embellishments.

1. **Sew Darts:** Sew any darts on the lining pieces, just as you would on the fashion fabric. Press the darts towards the center of the garment.
2. **Sew Shoulder Seams:** Pin and sew the shoulder seams of the lining bodice. Press the seams open or towards the back.
3. **Sew Side Seams:** Pin and sew the side seams of the lining bodice and skirt. Press the seams open or towards the back.
4. **Assemble the Skirt:** If your dress has a separate skirt, sew the skirt front and back pieces together at the side seams. Press the seams open or towards the back.
5. **Attach the Skirt to the Bodice:** Pin and sew the lining skirt to the lining bodice at the waistline. Press the seam allowance upwards towards the bodice. If your dress design makes it easier, you can treat the bodice and skirt as one piece during lining construction.
6. **Sleeves (if applicable):** If your dress has sleeves, set them into the armholes of the lining bodice, following the pattern instructions. Press the seam allowances towards the sleeve.

Step 3: Construct the Dress (Fashion Fabric)

Construct the dress from the fashion fabric, following the pattern instructions. This includes sewing darts, shoulder seams, side seams, attaching the skirt to the bodice, and setting in sleeves (if applicable). However, **do not** attach any facings or finish the neckline or armholes at this stage. These will be finished along with the lining.

1. **Sew Darts:** Sew any darts on the fashion fabric pieces, as indicated by the pattern. Press the darts towards the center of the garment.
2. **Sew Shoulder Seams:** Pin and sew the shoulder seams of the fashion fabric bodice. Press the seams open or towards the back.
3. **Sew Side Seams:** Pin and sew the side seams of the fashion fabric bodice and skirt. Press the seams open or towards the back.
4. **Assemble the Skirt:** If your dress has a separate skirt, sew the skirt front and back pieces together at the side seams. Press the seams open or towards the back.
5. **Attach the Skirt to the Bodice:** Pin and sew the fashion fabric skirt to the fashion fabric bodice at the waistline. Press the seam allowance upwards towards the bodice.
6. **Sleeves (if applicable):** If your dress has sleeves, set them into the armholes of the fashion fabric bodice, following the pattern instructions. Press the seam allowances towards the sleeve.

Step 4: Attaching the Lining to the Dress

There are several ways to attach the lining to the dress. The method you choose will depend on the style of the dress and your personal preference. We’ll cover three common methods:

* **Method 1: Bag Lining (for Dresses without Sleeves)**
* **Method 2: Lining to the Facing (for Dresses with Facings)**
* **Method 3: Hand-Sewing the Lining (a Versatile Option)**

Method 1: Bag Lining (for Dresses without Sleeves)

This method is ideal for sleeveless dresses and creates a clean, enclosed finish.

1. **Prepare the Neckline and Armholes:** Trim the seam allowances around the neckline and armholes of both the dress and the lining to reduce bulk. Grade the seam allowances (trim the lining seam allowance slightly shorter than the fashion fabric seam allowance) to prevent a ridge from forming on the right side.
2. **Pin the Lining to the Dress (Right Sides Together):** Place the lining inside the dress with right sides together. Align the neckline, armholes, and any other edges that will be sewn together. Pin securely, matching seams and curves carefully.
3. **Sew Around the Neckline and Armholes:** Sew around the neckline and armholes, using the seam allowance specified in the pattern. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to secure the stitches.
4. **Clip and Notch the Curves:** Clip into the seam allowance along curves and notch out excess fabric at corners. This will allow the seams to lie flat when turned right side out. Be careful not to cut through the stitching.
5. **Understitch:** Understitching is a crucial step that helps prevent the lining from rolling to the outside of the dress. Press the seam allowances towards the lining. Then, stitch close to the edge of the lining, catching the seam allowances underneath. This seam should be about 1/8″ away from the initial seam, through the lining and BOTH seam allowances.
6. **Turn Right Side Out:** Carefully turn the dress right side out through one of the shoulder seams. Gently push out the corners and curves to create a smooth, professional finish. You will likely have to ‘birth’ the entire dress through one of the shoulder seams by pulling the entire thing through. This can feel odd but is completely normal!
7. **Press:** Press the neckline and armholes from both the right and wrong sides of the dress. Pay particular attention to smoothing out any wrinkles or puckers.
8. **Close the Shoulder Seam:** Turn the garment inside out again. Fold the seam allowances on the unsewn shoulder seam of both the dress and the lining to the inside, press. Pin the dress and lining shoulder seams right sides together, matching the pressed seam allowances. Stitch close to the folded edge, securing the opening closed. Alternately, slip stitch the seam closed by hand for an invisible finish.
9. **Finish the Hem:** Turn up the hem of both the dress and the lining. You can finish the hem with a serger, zigzag stitch, or bias tape to prevent fraying. Hem the lining slightly shorter than the fashion fabric to prevent it from peeking out. Sew the hems using your preferred method, such as a blind hem stitch, hand-sewing, or a machine topstitch.

Method 2: Lining to the Facing (for Dresses with Facings)

This method works well for dresses that have facings around the neckline and armholes. It creates a clean, finished edge without the need for a separate seam.

1. **Prepare the Facing:** Construct the facing by joining the facing pieces together at the shoulder seams (if applicable). Press the seams open.
2. **Attach the Facing to the Dress:** Pin the facing to the right side of the dress neckline and armholes, matching notches and seams. Sew along the designated seam line.
3. **Clip and Notch:** Clip the curves and notch the corners of the seam allowance, as described in Method 1.
4. **Understitch:** Press the seam allowances towards the facing and understitch along the edge of the facing, catching the seam allowances underneath.
5. **Attach the Lining to the Facing:** Place the lining inside the dress, wrong sides together. Align the raw edge of the lining with the raw edge of the facing. Pin in place.
6. **Finish the Edges:** Finish the raw edges of the lining and facing together. You can use a serger, zigzag stitch, or bias tape to prevent fraying. This creates a clean, professional finish.
7. **Tack the Lining to the Dress:** To prevent the lining from shifting or sagging, tack it to the dress at strategic points, such as the shoulder seams, side seams, and waistline. Use a hand-sewing needle and thread to create small, inconspicuous stitches.
8. **Finish the Hem:** Hem the lining slightly shorter than the fashion fabric and finish the hem as described in Method 1.

Method 3: Hand-Sewing the Lining (a Versatile Option)

This method is the most versatile and can be used for any type of dress. It allows for precise control and a clean, invisible finish.

1. **Prepare the Neckline and Armholes:** Turn the seam allowance of the neckline and armholes of the dress to the inside and press. Baste in place close to the folded edge.
2. **Position the Lining:** Place the lining inside the dress, wrong sides together. Align the neckline and armholes of the lining with the basted edge of the dress. Pin in place.
3. **Hand-Sew the Lining:** Using a hand-sewing needle and thread, sew the lining to the dress using a slip stitch or a blind hem stitch. These stitches are nearly invisible from the right side of the dress.
4. **Tack the Lining to the Dress:** Tack the lining to the dress at strategic points, as described in Method 2.
5. **Finish the Hem:** Hem the lining slightly shorter than the fashion fabric and finish the hem as described in Method 1.

Step 5: Finishing Touches

1. **Press Again:** Give the lined dress a final press to smooth out any wrinkles and set the seams. Pay particular attention to the neckline, armholes, and hem.
2. **Check for Loose Threads:** Trim any loose threads or stray stitches.
3. **Add Closures:** If your dress requires a zipper, buttons, or other closures, install them according to the pattern instructions.
4. **Try it On:** Put on the lined dress and admire your handiwork. Make any necessary adjustments to the fit or hem.

Adapting a Pattern for Lining

If your dress pattern wasn’t originally designed to be lined, you may need to make a few adjustments:

* **Remove Facings:** If the pattern includes facings, you can omit them, as the lining will provide the finished edge. If you prefer to keep the facings for added structure, you can attach the lining to the facing as described in Method 2.
* **Shorten the Lining:** Shorten the lining pattern pieces by 1/2 to 1 inch to prevent the lining from peeking out from under the hem of the dress. This is especially important for skirts.
* **Consider a Full Lining:** For dresses with skirts that are gathered or pleated, consider using a full lining rather than just lining the bodice. This will provide a smoother, more even drape.

Tips for Success

* **Take Your Time:** Lining a dress requires patience and attention to detail. Don’t rush the process.
* **Press as You Go:** Pressing each seam as you sew is essential for a professional finish.
* **Use a Walking Foot:** If you’re working with slippery fabrics, a walking foot can help prevent the fabric from shifting and puckering.
* **Test Your Stitches:** Before sewing the lining to the dress, test your stitches on a scrap of fabric to ensure the tension is correct.
* **Don’t Be Afraid to Hand-Sew:** Hand-sewing can provide a more precise and invisible finish, especially for delicate areas like the neckline and armholes.
* **Grade Your Seam Allowances:** Grading the seam allowances reduces bulk and prevents ridges from forming on the right side of the dress.
* **Understitch!** This step cannot be overstated, it makes the final finish so much more professional.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

* **Lining is Too Tight:** If the lining feels too tight, double-check your measurements and seam allowances. You may need to let out the seams slightly.
* **Lining is Too Loose:** If the lining feels too loose, take in the seams slightly. You can also add a few darts or tucks to improve the fit.
* **Lining is Puckering:** Puckering can be caused by uneven seam allowances or incorrect stitch tension. Check your stitching and press the seams carefully.
* **Lining is Showing:** If the lining is peeking out from under the hem of the dress, shorten the lining or adjust the hem of the dress.

Conclusion

Lining a dress is a rewarding sewing project that can significantly enhance the quality and appearance of your garments. By following these detailed steps and tips, you can create beautifully lined dresses that are comfortable, durable, and stylish. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different lining fabrics and techniques to find what works best for you. Happy sewing!