How to Remove Permanent Hair Dye: A Comprehensive Guide
Changing your hair color is a fantastic way to express yourself and refresh your look. However, sometimes that spur-of-the-moment decision to go from brunette to blonde (or vice versa) doesn’t quite pan out as expected. While permanent hair dye is designed to last, life happens, and you might find yourself wanting to revert to your natural shade or try something completely different. Removing permanent hair dye can be a tricky process, but with the right knowledge and techniques, it’s definitely achievable. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from understanding the science behind permanent hair dye to step-by-step instructions for safe and effective removal.
Understanding Permanent Hair Dye
Before diving into the removal process, it’s crucial to understand how permanent hair dye works. Unlike temporary or semi-permanent dyes that coat the hair shaft, permanent dye penetrates the hair cuticle and alters its structure. This is achieved through a chemical reaction involving ammonia or a similar alkaline agent, which opens the cuticle, and hydrogen peroxide, which oxidizes the natural hair pigment and allows the dye molecules to deposit permanently. Because of this chemical change, removing permanent hair dye isn’t as simple as washing it out.
Key Components of Permanent Hair Dye:
* Ammonia (or Alkaline Substitute): Opens the hair cuticle, allowing dye to penetrate.
* Hydrogen Peroxide: Oxidizes natural hair pigment and develops the dye color.
* Dye Molecules: Small molecules that penetrate the hair shaft and combine to form larger, permanent color molecules.
Why Removing Permanent Dye is Challenging:
* The dye molecules are trapped within the hair shaft.
* Simply washing the hair won’t remove them.
* Removal processes often involve reversing or breaking down the dye molecules.
Assessing Your Hair’s Condition
Before attempting any removal method, carefully assess your hair’s condition. Permanent hair dye can be damaging, and repeated coloring or bleaching can leave your hair dry, brittle, and prone to breakage. If your hair is already significantly damaged, proceed with extreme caution and consider consulting a professional stylist.
Factors to Consider:
* Hair Porosity: High porosity hair absorbs and loses moisture quickly, making it more susceptible to damage. Low porosity hair resists moisture absorption, which can make dye removal more difficult.
* Hair Elasticity: Elasticity refers to your hair’s ability to stretch and return to its original shape. Low elasticity indicates weakened hair that’s prone to breakage.
* Previous Chemical Treatments: If your hair has been previously bleached, permed, or relaxed, it’s likely more fragile and requires extra care.
* Current Hair Color: The darker the dye you’re trying to remove, the more difficult the process will be. Multiple applications of dark dye can make removal particularly challenging.
Signs of Damaged Hair:
* Dryness and brittleness
* Split ends
* Breakage
* Frizziness
* Dullness
* Tangles easily
If your hair shows signs of significant damage, prioritize repairing and strengthening it before attempting to remove the dye. Deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and gentle handling can help improve its condition.
Methods for Removing Permanent Hair Dye
Several methods can be used to remove permanent hair dye, each with its own pros and cons. The best method for you will depend on your hair’s condition, the color you’re trying to remove, and your desired outcome.
1. Color Removers (also called Dye Removers)
Color removers are specifically designed to remove artificial dye molecules from the hair shaft. They work by shrinking the dye molecules, allowing them to be washed away. Unlike bleach, color removers generally don’t lift the natural pigment of your hair, making them a gentler option. However, they may not be effective on very dark or heavily deposited dyes.
Types of Color Removers:
* Sulfate-Based Color Removers: These are generally the most effective and can remove multiple layers of dye. However, they can be drying and potentially damaging, especially to already compromised hair. Follow the instructions very carefully.
* Sulfite-Based Color Removers: These are gentler than sulfate-based removers but may not be as effective on dark or stubborn dyes. They’re a good option for removing lighter shades or for hair that’s already damaged.
* Vitamin C Color Removers (DIY): Crushed Vitamin C tablets mixed with shampoo can help to fade dye. This is a very gentle, natural option but is best for minor adjustments or for fading freshly dyed hair. This will be discussed in more detail below.
Step-by-Step Instructions for Using a Commercial Color Remover:
1. Read the Instructions Carefully: Each color remover is different, so it’s essential to follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely. Pay close attention to the recommended processing time and any warnings or precautions.
2. Perform a Strand Test: Before applying the color remover to your entire head, perform a strand test on a small, inconspicuous section of hair. This will help you assess how well the product works and whether it causes any damage. To do a strand test, mix a small amount of the color remover according to the instructions and apply it to a 1-inch section of hair. Process for the recommended time, then rinse and dry the hair. Evaluate the results.
3. Prepare Your Hair: Don’t wash your hair for 24-48 hours before using a color remover. This allows your natural oils to protect your scalp and hair from irritation. You can apply a leave-in conditioner or hair oil to the ends of your hair to provide extra protection.
4. Apply the Color Remover: Wear gloves to protect your hands. Apply the color remover evenly to your hair, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends. Use a brush or applicator bottle to ensure thorough coverage.
5. Process the Color Remover: Cover your hair with a plastic cap and process for the recommended time. Check your hair periodically to monitor the progress. Don’t exceed the recommended processing time, as this can damage your hair.
6. Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse your hair thoroughly with warm water for at least 20-30 minutes. This is crucial for removing all traces of the color remover. Use a clarifying shampoo to help remove any remaining residue.
7. Condition Your Hair: Apply a deep conditioner or hair mask to replenish moisture and restore your hair’s health. Leave it on for the recommended time, then rinse thoroughly.
8. Evaluate the Results: After drying your hair, evaluate the results. You may need to repeat the process to achieve your desired color. However, avoid using a color remover more than once or twice in a short period, as this can cause significant damage.
Important Considerations:
* Color removers can be drying, so it’s essential to moisturize your hair thoroughly after using them.
* The hair may turn brassy or orange after using a color remover, especially if you’re removing a dark dye. This is because the underlying pigment is being revealed. You may need to tone your hair to neutralize these unwanted tones.
* Always follow up with a deep conditioning treatment to restore moisture and prevent damage.
* If you’re unsure about using a color remover, consult a professional stylist.
2. Bleach
Bleach is a powerful chemical that can lighten hair color by oxidizing the melanin, the natural pigment in your hair. While it can effectively remove permanent hair dye, it’s also highly damaging and should be used with caution. Bleach should generally be reserved for situations where other methods have failed, or when you are aiming for a drastically lighter color.
How Bleach Works:
Bleach contains hydrogen peroxide, which penetrates the hair shaft and breaks down the dye molecules. The higher the volume of hydrogen peroxide, the more lifting power the bleach has. However, higher volumes are also more damaging to the hair.
Step-by-Step Instructions for Using Bleach (Use with EXTREME Caution):
Disclaimer: Bleaching your hair at home carries significant risk of damage. If you are not experienced with bleaching, it is highly recommended that you seek the help of a professional stylist.
1. Perform a Strand Test: This is *especially* important when using bleach. Apply a small amount of bleach mixture to a hidden strand of hair and monitor closely for damage or breakage. If your hair becomes excessively fragile, *do not proceed*.
2. Gather Your Supplies:
* Bleach powder
* Developer (10, 20, or 30 volume – start with 10 or 20 to minimize damage. 30 volume should only be used by experienced individuals).
* Mixing bowl (non-metallic)
* Applicator brush
* Gloves
* Towel (that you don’t mind staining)
* Hair clips
* Plastic cap (optional)
* Timer
3. Protect Your Skin and Clothing: Wear gloves and an old t-shirt that you don’t mind getting stained. Apply petroleum jelly (Vaseline) along your hairline to protect your skin from irritation.
4. Mix the Bleach: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix the bleach powder and developer. The consistency should be like a thick yogurt.
5. Apply the Bleach: Divide your hair into small sections using hair clips. Apply the bleach mixture evenly to your hair, starting at the roots (if you’re trying to lift color from the roots) or focusing on the areas where you want to remove the dye. Work quickly and thoroughly.
6. Process the Bleach: Cover your hair with a plastic cap (optional) and process for the recommended time. Check your hair every 10-15 minutes to monitor the progress. *Do not* exceed the recommended processing time, as this can cause severe damage. **Do not leave bleach on longer than 50 minutes, even if the instructions allow it.**
7. Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until all traces of bleach are removed. Use a clarifying shampoo to help remove any remaining residue.
8. Tone Your Hair: Bleach often leaves hair with unwanted yellow or orange tones. Use a toner to neutralize these tones and achieve your desired color. Follow the toner’s instructions carefully.
9. Deep Condition Your Hair: Bleach is extremely drying, so it’s essential to replenish moisture and restore your hair’s health. Apply a deep conditioner or hair mask to your hair and leave it on for the recommended time. Rinse thoroughly.
Important Considerations:
* Bleach can cause significant damage to your hair, including dryness, breakage, and split ends.
* The higher the volume of developer, the more damage bleach will cause.
* Always perform a strand test before bleaching your entire head.
* Monitor your hair closely during the bleaching process to avoid over-processing.
* Use a toner to neutralize unwanted tones after bleaching.
* Follow up with a deep conditioning treatment to restore moisture and prevent damage.
* If you are not comfortable bleaching your hair at home, consult a professional stylist.
3. DIY Methods
Several DIY methods can help to fade or remove permanent hair dye. These methods are generally gentler than commercial color removers or bleach, but they may not be as effective on dark or heavily deposited dyes. They are best used for fading recently dyed hair or for making minor adjustments to your color.
a. Vitamin C Treatment:
Vitamin C is a mild oxidizing agent that can help to break down dye molecules. This method is best for fading freshly dyed hair or for removing semi-permanent dyes. It is a gentle method, but it may not be effective on deeply embedded permanent dye.
Ingredients:
* 10-20 Vitamin C tablets (crushed)
* Clarifying shampoo
* Water
Instructions:
1. Crush the Vitamin C tablets into a fine powder.
2. Mix the Vitamin C powder with a small amount of clarifying shampoo to form a paste.
3. Wet your hair thoroughly.
4. Apply the Vitamin C paste evenly to your hair, focusing on the areas where you want to remove the dye.
5. Cover your hair with a plastic cap.
6. Leave the paste on for 30-60 minutes. Check every 15 minutes for any adverse reactions.
7. Rinse your hair thoroughly with warm water.
8. Condition your hair to replenish moisture.
b. Baking Soda and Anti-Dandruff Shampoo:
Baking soda is a mild abrasive that can help to lift dye molecules from the hair shaft. Anti-dandruff shampoo contains strong cleansing agents that can also help to fade dye. This combination can be more effective than using either ingredient alone.
Ingredients:
* Baking soda
* Anti-dandruff shampoo (e.g., Head & Shoulders, Nizoral)
Instructions:
1. Mix equal parts baking soda and anti-dandruff shampoo to form a paste.
2. Wet your hair thoroughly.
3. Apply the paste evenly to your hair, focusing on the areas where you want to remove the dye.
4. Massage the paste into your hair for a few minutes.
5. Leave the paste on for 5-10 minutes. Do not leave it on longer, as baking soda can be drying.
6. Rinse your hair thoroughly with warm water.
7. Condition your hair to replenish moisture.
c. Dish Soap:
Dish soap is a strong detergent that can strip away oils and dye molecules from your hair. However, it is also very drying and can damage your hair if used too frequently. This should be a last resort DIY method.
Instructions:
1. Wet your hair thoroughly.
2. Apply a small amount of dish soap to your hair.
3. Massage the soap into your hair for a few minutes.
4. Rinse your hair thoroughly with warm water.
5. Deep condition your hair IMMEDIATELY to replenish moisture.
d. Honey and Cinnamon Mask:
While more of a lightening treatment than a dye remover, honey contains trace amounts of hydrogen peroxide, and cinnamon can help activate it. This method is very gentle but requires multiple applications and patience.
Ingredients:
* Raw honey
* Cinnamon powder
* Olive oil (optional, for added moisture)
Instructions:
1. Mix honey and cinnamon powder in a 2:1 ratio (e.g., 2 tablespoons honey, 1 tablespoon cinnamon). Add a teaspoon of olive oil if desired.
2. Wet your hair thoroughly.
3. Apply the mixture evenly to your hair.
4. Cover your hair with a plastic cap.
5. Leave the mask on for at least 4 hours, or overnight.
6. Rinse your hair thoroughly with warm water.
7. Condition your hair to replenish moisture.
Important Considerations for DIY Methods:
* DIY methods are generally gentler than commercial color removers or bleach, but they may not be as effective on dark or heavily deposited dyes.
* Always perform a strand test before applying any DIY treatment to your entire head.
* DIY methods can be drying, so it’s essential to moisturize your hair thoroughly after using them.
* Be patient, as it may take multiple applications to achieve your desired results.
Toning Your Hair After Dye Removal
After removing permanent hair dye, your hair may have unwanted yellow, orange, or brassy tones. This is because the underlying pigment of your hair is being revealed. Toning can help to neutralize these unwanted tones and achieve your desired color.
What is Toner?
Toner is a product that contains pigments that neutralize unwanted tones in your hair. It typically comes in the form of a demi-permanent hair color or a gloss.
Types of Toner:
* Purple Toner: Neutralizes yellow tones.
* Blue Toner: Neutralizes orange tones.
* Green Toner: Neutralizes red tones.
How to Use Toner:
1. Choose a toner that is appropriate for the unwanted tones in your hair.
2. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
3. Apply the toner evenly to your hair, focusing on the areas where you want to neutralize the unwanted tones.
4. Process the toner for the recommended time.
5. Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water.
6. Condition your hair to replenish moisture.
Important Considerations:
* Toner can be drying, so it’s essential to moisturize your hair thoroughly after using it.
* Always perform a strand test before applying toner to your entire head.
* Choose a toner that is appropriate for the unwanted tones in your hair.
* Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
Caring for Your Hair After Dye Removal
Removing permanent hair dye can be damaging to your hair, so it’s essential to take extra care of it afterward. This includes using gentle shampoos and conditioners, avoiding heat styling, and protecting your hair from the sun.
Tips for Caring for Your Hair After Dye Removal:
* Use a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner: Sulfates can strip away moisture and further damage your hair.
* Deep condition your hair regularly: This will help to replenish moisture and restore your hair’s health.
* Avoid heat styling: Heat can further damage your hair, so avoid using hair dryers, curling irons, and straightening irons as much as possible. If you must use heat, use a heat protectant spray.
* Protect your hair from the sun: The sun can damage your hair and fade your color. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when you’re spending time outdoors.
* Get regular trims: Trimming your hair will help to remove split ends and prevent further damage.
* Eat a healthy diet: A healthy diet can help to improve the overall health of your hair.
When to See a Professional
While it’s possible to remove permanent hair dye at home, there are times when it’s best to consult a professional stylist. This is especially true if:
* Your hair is severely damaged.
* You’re trying to remove a dark or heavily deposited dye.
* You’re aiming for a drastic color change.
* You’re not comfortable performing the removal process yourself.
A professional stylist has the knowledge and experience to safely and effectively remove permanent hair dye without causing significant damage to your hair. They can also help you choose the right color and style to complement your features.
Preventing Future Hair Dye Disasters
While experimenting with hair color can be fun, it’s always best to take precautions to avoid future hair dye disasters. Here are some tips:
* Choose a color that complements your skin tone: Before dyeing your hair, research which colors will best suit your complexion.
* Start with a semi-permanent or demi-permanent dye: These dyes are less damaging than permanent dyes and will allow you to test out a color before committing to it.
* Perform a strand test before dyeing your entire head: This will help you see how the color will look on your hair and whether it causes any damage.
* Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully: This will help you avoid any mistakes that could damage your hair.
* Consult a professional stylist: A stylist can help you choose the right color and apply the dye safely and effectively.
Removing permanent hair dye can be a challenging process, but it’s definitely achievable with the right knowledge and techniques. By understanding the science behind permanent hair dye, assessing your hair’s condition, and choosing the appropriate removal method, you can safely and effectively revert to your natural shade or try something completely different. Remember to prioritize the health of your hair and consult a professional stylist if you’re unsure about any part of the process.