Mastering Bias Binding: A Comprehensive Guide for Flawless Finishes

Bias binding, that humble strip of fabric, is a powerhouse in the world of sewing. It’s used to finish raw edges, create beautiful curves, add a pop of color, and provide structure to your handmade projects. While it might seem intimidating to beginners, learning to sew bias binding is a skill that will elevate your sewing game significantly. This comprehensive guide will break down the process, from understanding what bias binding is to mastering multiple techniques for both single and double fold applications. Get ready to say goodbye to messy edges and hello to professionally finished seams!

What is Bias Binding?

Before we dive into the how-to, let’s clarify what bias binding actually is. Unlike fabric cut along the straight grain (parallel to the selvage edge) or cross grain (perpendicular to the selvage), bias binding is cut on the *bias*, which means at a 45-degree angle to the straight grain. This seemingly small difference makes a huge impact. Cutting on the bias gives the fabric a natural stretch, allowing it to easily mold around curves and corners without puckering or pulling. This makes it the ideal choice for finishing necklines, armholes, quilts, and other projects that require flexibility.

Types of Bias Binding

There are two main types of bias binding you’ll encounter:

* **Single Fold Bias Binding:** This is a single strip of fabric with the edges pressed towards the center. It’s primarily used for finishing single layers of fabric and creating a neat, subtle edge.
* **Double Fold Bias Binding:** This is created by folding single fold binding in half again, creating a double layer of fabric. This is the most common type and it is more robust, providing a stronger and often more visible finish. It’s ideal for edges that need extra durability or where you want the binding to stand out.

Both types can be purchased pre-made in various colors, widths, and materials. However, creating your own allows for perfect color matching and more control over the quality and texture of your finish.

Preparing Your Bias Binding: Making it or Buying it

As mentioned, you can buy pre-made bias tape, which is a great option when you need consistency and don’t want the hassle of making it yourself. However, knowing how to make your own bias binding gives you a huge advantage, giving you a complete control of the fabric, print and its width.

Making Your Own Bias Binding

This section details how to make a bias strip, which you can then fold into single or double fold binding.

**You will need:**

* Fabric of your choice
* Rotary cutter and mat
* Clear ruler (ideally a bias-cutting ruler if you do this frequently)
* Iron and ironing board
* Optional: Bias tape maker

**Steps:**

1. **Prepare Your Fabric:** Iron your fabric to remove any wrinkles. This will ensure an accurate cut.

2. **Create a 45-Degree Angle:** Fold one corner of your fabric to the opposite side, forming a 45-degree angle. Press the fold, and unfold. This establishes a guideline for cutting on the bias.

3. **Mark and Cut Strips:** Using your ruler and rotary cutter, carefully cut strips of the desired width along the 45-degree angle. The width you cut will depend on your desired finished width of the binding plus seam allowances. A general rule is that double-fold binding is 4 times the final width needed plus seam allowance. Single fold is 2 times plus the seam allowance. Example: If you want to end up with a 1/2 inch final width of double fold bias, you’ll need 2 inches width plus seam allowance.

4. **Join Strips (If Necessary):** If you need longer pieces of bias binding, lay two bias strips right sides together at a 90-degree angle, aligning the raw edges. Sew across the corner from one point to another with a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open, and you have a long continuous strip of bias tape. Trim off the corner dog ears.

5. **Press into Single Fold Bias Binding:** For single-fold bias binding, fold the edges of your strips to the center, pressing as you go. Now you have a single fold bias binding.

6. **Press into Double Fold Bias Binding:** For double-fold binding, fold your single fold binding in half again and press to create a double fold bias binding. Your raw edges are now tucked inside. Press well.

**Using a Bias Tape Maker**

A bias tape maker is a handy tool that speeds up the process. Feed your cut bias strip into the wide end of the maker and pull it through as you press with an iron. The guide will do the first fold for you. Then for a double fold, you just do the last fold.

Sewing Bias Binding: Step-by-Step Guide

Now for the main event – sewing the binding to your project. Here, we’ll explore both single and double fold techniques. Remember, practice makes perfect, so don’t worry if your first attempts aren’t flawless!

Sewing Single Fold Bias Binding

Single fold bias binding is best used to finish single layers of fabric, such as the edge of a quilt, a tablecloth, or lightweight garment seams.

**Steps:**

1. **Prepare your Project:** Make sure your project’s raw edges are trimmed and neatly presented. This is especially important in areas with curves.

2. **Pin or Clip the Binding:** Unfold the single-fold binding. Align one raw edge of the binding with the raw edge of your fabric, right sides together. Pin or clip it in place, ensuring the bias is not stretched.

3. **Sew the Binding:** Sew along the crease of the bias binding, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance (or the amount you chose when making the bias). Be sure not to stitch on top of the fold, you want it to sew in the very crease. Use a stitch length that works well with your fabric – generally 2.0-2.5mm is a good starting point.

4. **Press the Binding:** Press the seam allowance towards the bias binding.

5. **Fold the Binding:** Fold the single-fold binding over to the back of the garment, encasing the raw edge. Ensure the folded edge of your binding overlaps your stitch line from the front.

6. **Secure the Binding:** You can use one of these methods:
* **Machine Stitch:** Pin or clip the fold of the bias binding to the backside and carefully stitch close to the folded edge from the front. This catches the back side edge. Be careful to ensure the back is caught while sewing on the front side.
* **Hand Stitch (Slip Stitch):** For a nearly invisible finish, use a needle and thread to slip stitch the folded edge of the bias binding to the back of the garment. Use matching thread.

Sewing Double Fold Bias Binding

Double fold bias binding is used on edges that need more durability and structure or for a more visible finish, such as the edges of quilts, necklines, and armholes.

**Steps: Method 1 – Sewing on the Front**

1. **Prepare Your Project:** As with single-fold binding, ensure your project’s edges are trimmed and ready. Be careful to maintain the accuracy of your project edge.

2. **Pin or Clip the Binding:** Open one fold of the double-fold binding. Align one raw edge of the open binding with the raw edge of your fabric, right sides together. Pin or clip it in place. The fold of the bias binding should be on the edge of your fabric edge.

3. **Sew the Binding:** Sew along the crease of the bias binding using a 1/4-inch seam allowance (or the amount you chose when making the bias). Use a stitch length that works well with your fabric.

4. **Press the Binding:** Press the seam allowance towards the binding.

5. **Fold the Binding:** Fold the binding over to the back of your project, encasing the raw edge. The folded edge of the bias should overlap your stitch line from the front.

6. **Secure the Binding:** As with single fold, you can choose between machine sewing or hand sewing:
* **Machine Stitch (Stitching in the Ditch):** From the front side of the project, carefully stitch ‘in the ditch’ (the seamline where you first attached the bias). This should capture the binding on the back. Make sure your needle is catching the back of the folded edge of the bias binding. It can take practice to stitch so that it catches the back.
* **Hand Stitch:** For a refined finish, slip stitch the folded edge of the bias to the back of your project.

**Steps: Method 2 – Sewing on the Back**

This is similar to method one, but you begin by attaching the bias binding to the *back* of the project instead of the front. This method can be easier to stitch on the ditch, since the back of the fold will always be visible on the top and you can be confident when you are catching it in your stitch. However, it means the bias binding will sit on the front of your project, so consider this when choosing prints and colours.

1. **Prepare Your Project:** Prepare your project edge, making it neat and accurate.

2. **Pin or Clip the Binding:** Open one fold of the double-fold binding. Align one raw edge of the open binding with the raw edge of the *back* of your fabric, right sides together. Pin or clip it in place. The fold of the bias binding should be on the edge of your fabric edge.

3. **Sew the Binding:** Sew along the crease of the bias binding using a 1/4-inch seam allowance (or the amount you chose when making the bias). Use a stitch length that works well with your fabric.

4. **Press the Binding:** Press the seam allowance away from the binding, towards the garment.

5. **Fold the Binding:** Fold the binding over to the *front* of your project, encasing the raw edge. The folded edge of the bias should overlap your stitch line from the back.

6. **Secure the Binding:** As with the other methods, you can choose between machine sewing or hand sewing:
* **Machine Stitch (Stitching in the Ditch):** From the back side of the project, carefully stitch ‘in the ditch’ (the seamline where you first attached the bias). This should capture the binding on the front. Make sure your needle is catching the front of the folded edge of the bias binding. It can take practice to stitch so that it catches the front.
* **Hand Stitch:** For a refined finish, slip stitch the folded edge of the bias to the front of your project.

Tips for Sewing Perfect Bias Binding

* **Practice on Scraps:** Before working on your main project, practice sewing bias binding on fabric scraps to get a feel for the process and to adjust the tension of your machine. This will give you practice on corners and curves.
* **Use the Right Tools:** Having a good-quality rotary cutter, mat, ruler, and iron will make a world of difference.
* **Choose Appropriate Fabric:** The fabric you choose for your bias binding will affect its flexibility and durability. Cotton and linen are common choices. Make sure the fabric matches the material of your project.
* **Don’t Stretch the Binding:** While the bias is flexible, avoid stretching it as you sew, which can lead to puckering. Work slowly and let your machine do the work.
* **Take Your Time:** Rushing will lead to mistakes. Especially when getting started, focus on accuracy and neatness instead of speed.
* **Be Patient:** Bias binding might take some practice to perfect. Don’t get discouraged if your first attempts aren’t perfect; you’ll improve with each project.

Finishing Touches

After sewing your bias binding, give your project one final press with your iron. This will help smooth out any wrinkles and give a crisp, professional finish.

Troubleshooting Bias Binding

* **Puckering:** Puckering can be caused by stretching the binding during sewing or a too-tight stitch. Try adjusting your stitch length and tension and make sure you are not pulling on the bias as you stitch.
* **Uneven Binding:** This could be because your bias strip is not cut consistently or because you are not taking an even seam allowance. Double-check your cuts and be consistent in your seam allowance. Use a guide on your sewing machine.
* **Skipped Stitches:** This can often be resolved by a new needle and correctly threading your sewing machine.

Conclusion

Sewing bias binding is a valuable skill that will elevate your sewing projects. With practice and patience, you’ll be able to add beautiful, professional-looking finishes to everything you create. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different types of fabric, colors, and techniques. Happy sewing!