Mastering Grapevine Training: A Comprehensive Guide for Abundant Harvests
Growing your own grapes can be a rewarding experience, culminating in delicious fruit for eating, juicing, or even winemaking. However, achieving a bountiful harvest requires more than just planting and watering. Proper grapevine training is crucial for shaping the vine, maximizing sunlight exposure, improving air circulation, and ultimately increasing fruit production. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the essential steps of grapevine training, covering different training systems and providing detailed instructions for each stage of development.
## Why Train Grapevines?
Before diving into the specifics, it’s important to understand why grapevine training is so essential. Training offers several key benefits:
* **Increased Fruit Production:** Training directs the vine’s energy towards fruit production rather than excessive vegetative growth. By controlling the vine’s shape, you can optimize sunlight exposure to the fruiting canes, leading to higher yields.
* **Improved Fruit Quality:** Better sunlight exposure and air circulation contribute to even ripening and reduce the risk of fungal diseases, resulting in higher-quality grapes.
* **Ease of Management:** A well-trained vine is easier to prune, spray, and harvest. The structured framework allows for efficient management practices.
* **Vine Longevity:** Proper training ensures a strong and healthy vine structure, extending its lifespan and productivity.
* **Aesthetic Appeal:** A well-trained grapevine can be a beautiful addition to your garden or vineyard, adding visual interest and creating a sense of order.
## Understanding Grapevine Growth
To effectively train grapevines, it’s helpful to understand their growth habits. Grapevines are vigorous, climbing plants that produce tendrils to support themselves. The primary components of a grapevine are:
* **Trunk:** The main vertical stem of the vine.
* **Cordons:** Permanent horizontal arms extending from the trunk. These form the main framework of the vine in some training systems.
* **Canes:** One-year-old shoots that grow from the cordons or trunk. These are the fruit-bearing parts of the vine. Select canes are retained during pruning to produce fruit in the next season. The rest are removed. Each cane develops from a bud on either the cordon or the trunk.
* **Shoots:** New growth that emerges from buds on the canes. These shoots produce leaves, tendrils, and eventually grape clusters. These are the green growth and become canes when the vine is dormant after the growing season.
* **Spurs:** Short sections of canes (typically with 2-3 buds) that are left after pruning in some training systems. Spurs are used for fruit production in subsequent years.
* **Suckers:** Shoots that grow from the base of the trunk or from the roots. These should be removed as they divert energy from the main vine.
* **Water sprouts:** Vigorous shoots that grow from older wood (trunk or cordons). These should also be removed, as they are not productive and can shade the fruiting canes.
## Choosing the Right Training System
Several training systems are used for grapevines, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. The best system for you will depend on your climate, grape variety, available space, and desired management intensity. Here are some of the most common systems:
* **Head Training:** This is the simplest system, where the vine has a short trunk (the ‘head’) and canes are pruned back to short spurs or canes close to the head. It’s suitable for less vigorous varieties and warmer climates. Often used for goblet style vines.
* **Cordon Training:** In this system, the vine has a permanent trunk with one or two horizontal arms (cordons) extending along a wire. Fruiting canes or spurs are then developed along the cordons. This system is well-suited for mechanical pruning and harvesting.
* **Bilateral Cordon:** The cordon splits into two distinct cordons that run in opposite directions along the trellis wire.
* **Unilateral Cordon:** A single cordon that extends along the trellis wire.
* **Vertical Shoot Positioning (VSP):** A widely used system, especially in commercial vineyards. The vine has a trunk, and the fruiting canes are trained upwards, supported by wires. This system promotes good sunlight exposure and air circulation.
* **Arbor Training:** Grapevines are trained over an overhead structure, such as an arbor or pergola. This system provides shade and can be aesthetically pleasing, but it can be more difficult to manage and prune.
* **Kniffin System:** Utilizes a high wire to train a main trunk. Canes are grown along the wire, and then hang down. There are variations such as the four-arm Kniffin and six-arm Kniffin which refer to how many canes extend and hang down.
For this guide, we will focus on the **Cordon Training** and **Vertical Shoot Positioning (VSP)** systems, as they are popular choices for home gardeners and small vineyards. These are chosen for their ease of establishment and pruning, and high yield potential.
## Materials and Tools
Before you start training your grapevines, gather the necessary materials and tools:
* **Grapevines:** Choose healthy, disease-free vines from a reputable nursery.
* **Trellis System:** This will depend on the training system you choose. For cordon and VSP systems, you’ll need posts, wires, and wire tighteners.
* **Pruning Shears:** Sharp and clean pruning shears are essential for making clean cuts.
* **Loppers:** For cutting thicker branches.
* **Hand Saw:** For cutting the thickest wood, such as removing entire cordons.
* **Twine or Vine Training Clips:** To tie or secure the canes to the trellis wires. Biodegradable twine is a good option.
* **Gloves:** To protect your hands from thorns and rough bark.
* **Measuring Tape:** For spacing posts and wires accurately.
* **Level:** To ensure posts are set vertically.
* **Post Hole Digger or Auger:** For installing trellis posts.
## Step-by-Step Guide: Cordon Training
Cordon training involves establishing a permanent trunk and one or two horizontal arms (cordons) along a wire. Here’s how to do it:
**Year 1: Planting and Establishing the Trunk**
1. **Planting:** Plant your grapevine in early spring, ensuring the roots are well-spread and the graft union (the point where the scion is grafted onto the rootstock) is above the soil line. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep.
2. **Initial Pruning:** After planting, prune the vine back to 2-3 buds. This encourages strong root development.
3. **Training the Trunk:** As the vine grows, select the strongest shoot to become the trunk. Remove any other shoots that emerge from the base of the vine (suckers). Use a stake or bamboo cane to support the developing trunk. Attach the shoot loosely to the stake with twine or vine training clips.
4. **Continued Growth:** Throughout the growing season, continue to remove suckers and water sprouts. Keep the selected shoot growing vertically towards the trellis wire. Loosely secure the shoot as needed to the stake.
**Year 2: Developing the Cordon(s)**
1. **Dormant Pruning:** In late winter or early spring, before the buds break, prune the trunk. If you are training a unilateral cordon, cut the trunk just below the level of the wire. If you are training a bilateral cordon, cut the trunk about 6 inches below the wire.
2. **Selecting the Cordon(s):** As new shoots emerge in the spring, select one or two of the strongest shoots near the top of the trunk to become the cordon(s). If you are training a bilateral cordon, choose one shoot on each side of the trunk. Remove all other shoots.
3. **Training the Cordon(s):** Gently bend the selected shoot(s) horizontally along the trellis wire. Tie them loosely to the wire with twine or vine training clips. Encourage them to grow along the wire, forming the permanent cordon(s).
4. **Cordon Extension:** As the cordon(s) grow, continue to tie them to the wire. If the cordon(s) reach the end of the wire before the end of the growing season, you can prune them back slightly to encourage lateral branching.
**Year 3 and Beyond: Establishing Fruiting Spurs/Canes**
1. **Dormant Pruning:** In late winter or early spring, prune the cordon(s) to establish fruiting spurs or canes. The choice between spurs and canes depends on the grape variety and your preference. Refer to pruning guidelines for your specific grape variety.
* **Spur Pruning:** If you are spur pruning, space the spurs evenly along the cordon, typically 6-8 inches apart. Each spur should have 2-3 buds. Remove any unwanted shoots or dead wood.
* **Cane Pruning:** If you are cane pruning, select several healthy, well-positioned canes along the cordon. Prune these canes back to 8-12 buds each. Remove all other canes. Secure the selected canes to the trellis wire.
2. **Summer Pruning (Suckering and Water Sprout Removal):** Throughout the growing season, continue to remove suckers and water sprouts. This directs the vine’s energy towards fruit production.
3. **Shoot Thinning:** If the shoots are too crowded, thin them out to improve sunlight exposure and air circulation. Remove any weak or unproductive shoots.
4. **Harvesting:** Harvest your grapes when they are ripe and have reached the desired sugar level. This is often determined by taste, but can be confirmed with a refractometer.
## Step-by-Step Guide: Vertical Shoot Positioning (VSP)
VSP training involves training the vine upwards, with shoots positioned vertically between wires. Here’s how to do it:
**Year 1: Planting and Establishing the Trunk**
1. **Planting:** Plant your grapevine in early spring, ensuring the roots are well-spread and the graft union is above the soil line.
2. **Initial Pruning:** After planting, prune the vine back to 2-3 buds to encourage strong root development.
3. **Training the Trunk:** As the vine grows, select the strongest shoot to become the trunk. Remove any other shoots that emerge from the base of the vine (suckers). Use a stake or bamboo cane to support the developing trunk. Attach the shoot loosely to the stake with twine or vine training clips.
4. **Continued Growth:** Throughout the growing season, continue to remove suckers and water sprouts. Keep the selected shoot growing vertically towards the lowest trellis wire. Loosely secure the shoot as needed to the stake.
**Year 2: Reaching the Wires**
1. **Dormant Pruning:** In late winter or early spring, before the buds break, prune the trunk so that it extends just above the bottom wire. This will encourage growth near the wire.
2. **Selecting the Canes:** As new shoots emerge in the spring, select one or two of the strongest shoots to become the fruiting canes. The number of canes will depend on your vineyard layout and grape variety. The most common practice is to establish two canes that grow in opposite directions from each other along the wire. Remove all other shoots near the bottom wire.
3. **Training the Canes:** Gently bend the selected shoot(s) horizontally along the lowest trellis wire. Tie them loosely to the wire with twine or vine training clips. Encourage them to grow along the wire, forming the permanent canes.
4. **Vertical Shoot Growth:** As new shoots emerge from the canes, train them upwards between the wires. Use catch wires or foliage wires to keep the shoots positioned vertically. If the canes reach the end of the wire before the end of the growing season, you can prune them back slightly to encourage lateral branching.
**Year 3 and Beyond: Establishing Fruiting Canes and Vertical Shoots**
1. **Dormant Pruning:** In late winter or early spring, prune the canes. Select new canes to replace the previous year’s fruiting canes. Remove old, weak, or damaged wood. Secure the selected canes to the lowest trellis wire. The amount of buds kept per cane depends on the grape variety and its vigor.
2. **Summer Pruning (Suckering and Water Sprout Removal):** Throughout the growing season, continue to remove suckers and water sprouts from the trunk and canes. This directs the vine’s energy towards fruit production.
3. **Shoot Positioning:** Train the shoots vertically between the wires. Use catch wires or foliage wires to maintain the vertical position.
4. **Leaf Removal:** Remove leaves around the grape clusters to improve sunlight exposure and air circulation. This can reduce the risk of fungal diseases and improve fruit quality.
5. **Harvesting:** Harvest your grapes when they are ripe and have reached the desired sugar level. This is often determined by taste, but can be confirmed with a refractometer.
## General Tips for Grapevine Training
* **Start Early:** Begin training your grapevines as soon as they are planted. Early training is easier and more effective than trying to correct a neglected vine later on.
* **Use Clean Cuts:** Always use sharp and clean pruning shears to make clean cuts. This promotes faster healing and reduces the risk of disease.
* **Secure Loosely:** When tying canes to the trellis, secure them loosely to avoid girdling the vine as it grows.
* **Remove Suckers and Water Sprouts Regularly:** These unproductive shoots can divert energy from the fruiting canes.
* **Monitor for Pests and Diseases:** Regularly inspect your grapevines for signs of pests and diseases. Take appropriate action to prevent or control any problems.
* **Choose the Right Variety:** Select a grape variety that is well-suited to your climate and soil conditions. Proper variety selection is crucial for successful grapevine growing.
* **Provide Adequate Support:** Ensure your trellis system is strong enough to support the weight of the mature vine and its fruit.
* **Prune at the Right Time:** Dormant pruning is best done in late winter or early spring, before the buds break. Summer pruning can be done throughout the growing season to remove unwanted growth and improve sunlight exposure.
* **Consider Vine Vigor:** Different grape varieties have different vigor levels. Adjust your training and pruning techniques accordingly. More vigorous varieties may require more aggressive pruning.
* **Adjust based on Fruit Load:** If your grapevine is producing too much fruit, you may need to thin out some of the clusters to prevent overbearing. Overbearing can weaken the vine and reduce fruit quality.
* **Know your variety’s Fruiting Habit:** Some varieties produce primarily on spurs, while others produce primarily on canes. Understand the fruiting habit of your chosen variety to prune it correctly.
* **Winter Protection (if needed):** In very cold climates, some grape varieties may require winter protection. This can involve covering the vines with burlap or other insulating materials.
* **Soil Preparation:** Amend the soil with compost or other organic matter before planting to improve drainage and fertility.
* **Watering:** Grapevines need consistent watering, especially during dry periods. However, avoid overwatering, as this can lead to root rot.
* **Fertilizing:** Fertilize your grapevines in early spring with a balanced fertilizer. Avoid over-fertilizing, as this can lead to excessive vegetative growth.
* **Record Keeping:** Keep records of your training and pruning activities, as well as any pest or disease problems. This will help you track your progress and make informed decisions in the future.
* **Seek Local Expertise:** Consult with local viticulturists or grape growers for advice specific to your region and grape variety.
## Troubleshooting Common Problems
* **Poor Fruit Set:** This can be caused by cold weather during bloom, poor pollination, or nutrient deficiencies. Ensure adequate watering and fertilization, and consider using a fruit-setting spray.
* **Fungal Diseases:** Powdery mildew, downy mildew, and black rot are common fungal diseases that can affect grapevines. Prevent these diseases by ensuring good air circulation, providing adequate sunlight exposure, and applying fungicides as needed.
* **Pest Infestations:** Grapevines can be attacked by various pests, such as aphids, grape phylloxera, and Japanese beetles. Monitor your vines regularly and take appropriate action to control any pest infestations.
* **Sunburn:** Grape clusters can be damaged by excessive sun exposure, especially in hot climates. Provide shade by leaving some leaves around the clusters or using shade cloth.
* **Overbearing:** If your grapevine is producing too much fruit, it can become weakened and susceptible to diseases. Thin out some of the clusters to prevent overbearing.
## Conclusion
Training grapevines is an ongoing process that requires patience and attention to detail. By following the steps outlined in this guide and adapting them to your specific needs, you can train your grapevines to produce abundant harvests of high-quality fruit for years to come. Remember to observe your vines regularly, adjust your training techniques as needed, and seek local expertise when necessary. With proper care and training, you can enjoy the rewarding experience of growing your own grapes and savoring the fruits of your labor.