Mastering Shadow: A Comprehensive Guide to Applying Eyeshadow on Hooded Eyes

Hooded eyes, characterized by an extra layer of skin that folds down from the brow bone, can sometimes make eyeshadow application feel like a frustrating exercise in futility. The beautiful colors you so carefully apply can often disappear into the crease, leaving you with a look that’s far from what you envisioned. But fear not, fellow makeup enthusiasts! With the right techniques and a little know-how, you can absolutely rock stunning eyeshadow looks, even with hooded eyes. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step, from prepping your lids to mastering advanced techniques, ensuring that your eye makeup always looks its best.

Understanding Hooded Eyes

Before diving into application, let’s understand what makes hooded eyes unique. The distinguishing feature is the presence of a skin fold that partially or completely covers the eyelid when your eyes are open. This fold often hides the upper part of the mobile lid, where we typically apply the most vibrant eyeshadow colors. As a result, techniques that work perfectly on other eye shapes may not translate well to hooded eyes. The good news is, by adapting your approach, you can create depth, dimension, and a captivating look that complements your features beautifully.

Essential Tools and Products

Having the right tools and products can make a significant difference in your eyeshadow application. Here’s a breakdown of what you’ll need:

Eyeshadow Primer:

Crucial for hooded eyes! A good primer creates a smooth base, prevents creasing, and helps your eyeshadow last longer. Look for a primer specifically designed for oily lids if you have them, as this will further combat smudging. Some popular primers are NARS Pro-Prime Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base, Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion, and MAC Prep + Prime 24-Hour Extend Eye Base.

Eyeshadow Brushes:

• Flat Shader Brush: For packing color onto the lid. Look for one with dense, slightly stiff bristles.
• Fluffy Blending Brush: Essential for blending colors seamlessly and creating smooth transitions. Choose a brush with soft, tapered bristles.
• Small Angled Brush: For applying eyeshadow to the lower lash line and defining the outer corner of the eye.
• Pencil Brush: Useful for precise application in the crease and for smudging out eyeliner.

Eyeshadow Palettes:

Choose palettes that offer a variety of shades, including:

• Transition Shades: Neutral shades (e.g., taupe, light brown, warm beige) that mimic your skin tone and create a seamless transition between colors.
• Lid Shades: A mix of matte and shimmer shades in your desired colors to apply to the mobile lid.
• Deep Shades: Dark browns, blacks, and grays for adding depth to the outer corner and crease.
• Highlight Shades: Light, shimmery shades for highlighting the brow bone and inner corner.

Other Essentials:

• Concealer: To cover any dark circles and create a clean base around your eyes.
• Setting Powder: To set your concealer and prevent creasing.
• Mascara: To enhance your lashes and complete your look.
• Eyeliner (optional): Gel, liquid, or pencil eyeliner to define the lash line.

Step-by-Step Guide to Applying Eyeshadow on Hooded Eyes

Now, let’s get into the nitty-gritty of application. Remember, practice makes perfect, so don’t get discouraged if your first attempt isn’t flawless.

Step 1: Prime Your Lids

Before applying any eyeshadow, it’s crucial to prime your lids. This will create a smooth canvas for your eyeshadow and prevent it from creasing or fading throughout the day.

1. Apply a pea-sized amount of eyeshadow primer to your fingertip or a flat brush.
2. Gently pat the primer all over your eyelid, from lash line to brow bone. Be sure to cover the entire area where you’ll be applying eyeshadow.
3. Allow the primer to set for a minute or two before moving on to the next step. This will ensure it adheres properly.

Step 2: Apply Transition Shade in the ‘Fake Crease’

This is the most crucial step for hooded eyes. Instead of applying your transition shade in your natural crease (which is hidden), you’ll be creating a “fake crease” above the hood of your eye.

1. Choose a transition shade that’s slightly darker than your natural skin tone, ideally 2-3 shades darker.
2. Look straight ahead into a mirror. This is important! You need to see where the hood folds when your eye is open, not when it’s closed.
3. Using a fluffy blending brush, locate your eye socket bone by lightly running your finger along your eye area. You want to apply the transition color above your natural crease, along your eye socket bone.
4. Start by applying the transition shade in a windshield-wiper motion, focusing on the outer two-thirds of your eye. Begin by applying small amounts of color, layering until you get the desired intensity. The key is to keep the product above the hood when your eye is open.
5. Blend thoroughly! This is where the fluffy blending brush comes into play. Blend the edges of the transition shade to soften any harsh lines. The goal is a seamless transition from the natural skin to the transition shade.
6. Check in the mirror with your eyes open. Ensure the transition shade is visible above the hood when your eyes are open. You may need to add more product and blend further to achieve the desired result. Don’t be afraid to go slightly higher than you think you should.

Step 3: Apply Lid Color

Once your transition shade is blended, it’s time to add color to your lid.

1. Choose your desired lid shade. You can opt for a matte, shimmer, or metallic finish.
2. Using a flat shader brush, gently pat the lid color onto the mobile lid, stopping just before the fake crease. Don’t blend this color into the transition shade.
3. Don’t bring the lid color all the way to the inner corner. You’ll be highlighting that area later.
4. If you’re using multiple lid shades, apply the lightest shade on the inner part of the lid, moving towards the darker shade toward the outer corner. This can create depth and dimension.

Step 4: Add Depth to the Outer Corner

To add dimension and prevent your eyes from looking flat, you’ll need to deepen the outer corner with a darker shade.

1. Choose a deeper shade that complements your lid color. A dark brown or gray works well for most looks.
2. Using a small angled brush or a pencil brush, apply the deep shade to the outer corner of your eye, forming a ‘V’ shape along the upper lash line and into the outer edge of the fake crease.
3. Start with a small amount of product and build up the intensity gradually. This is much better than applying too much at once and having to blend away excess color.
4. Blend the edges of the dark shade thoroughly into the transition color using a fluffy brush to soften the transition and prevent a harsh line. Again, use circular motions with the fluffy blending brush to seamlessly merge these shades, focusing on the outer edge of the eye.

Step 5: Highlight the Brow Bone and Inner Corner

Highlighting the brow bone and inner corner can lift your eyes and make them appear more open.

1. Choose a light, shimmery highlight shade. A light champagne or ivory color works well.
2. Using a small brush, gently apply the highlight shade to the brow bone, just below your eyebrow. Focus on the high point of your brow bone and avoid applying it to your entire brow.
3. Apply a small amount of the same highlight shade to the inner corner of your eye to brighten it.

Step 6: Apply Eyeshadow to the Lower Lash Line

Applying eyeshadow to the lower lash line can balance your overall eye look. If you have small or close-set eyes use a neutral shade. For larger eyes you can use the same deep color as your outer corner to create a more dramatic effect.

1. Using a small angled brush or pencil brush, gently apply the same or similar dark shade you used on the outer corner along your lower lash line.
2. Start from the outer corner and move inwards, stopping at about two-thirds of the way into the lash line.
3. Blend out the lower lash line with a small brush for a softer, more natural look.
4. Avoid using harsh lines on the lower lash line as they can appear heavy on hooded eyes.

Step 7: Apply Eyeliner (Optional)

Eyeliner is optional, but it can add definition and enhance the look of your lashes. If you have hooded eyes, it is best to use a thin liner, or consider lining the waterline.

1. Choose your preferred type of eyeliner (gel, liquid, or pencil).
2. Apply a thin line as close to your upper lash line as possible.
3. If you want to create a wing, draw a line from the outer corner of your eye upwards towards the end of your eyebrow, making it as thin as possible.
4. A thin winged eyeliner is best for hooded eyes. Thick winged liner can often be lost in the hood.

Step 8: Apply Mascara

Finish off your eye look with a coat of mascara.

1. Apply one or two coats of mascara to your upper lashes.
2. If desired, apply mascara to your lower lashes.
3. Focus on the base of your lashes for added volume.

Step 9: Setting Spray

To ensure your eye makeup lasts all day, finish with a setting spray.

1. Hold your setting spray a few inches away from your face.
2. Lightly mist your entire face, focusing on the eye area.
3. Allow it to air dry.

Tips and Tricks for Hooded Eyes

• Don’t be afraid to experiment: What works for one person might not work for another, even within the same eye shape category. Play around with different colors, textures, and application techniques to find what you love and what flatters your features the best.
• Less is More: When first starting out, begin with a smaller amount of product on your brush. It is much easier to build up color than to try and remove it. This reduces the risk of making mistakes.
• Focus on Blending: Blending is key to avoiding harsh lines and a patchy appearance. Make sure to spend enough time blending the shades together for a seamless finish.
• Practice in Natural Light: Natural light will reveal uneven blending and patchy spots, allowing you to catch and correct errors more easily. If you can apply your eyeshadow with your face towards natural light, you’ll have the best chance at seeing the look from the perspective of others.
• Use a magnifying mirror: This will help you to see all of the details of your application, and help you to correct your mistakes.
• Be Patient: Learning to apply eyeshadow on hooded eyes takes time and practice. Don’t be discouraged if you don’t get it right away. Just keep experimenting, and you’ll eventually master the techniques that work for you.
• Use Long-wearing Products: Choose long-wearing, crease-proof products. This will reduce the likelihood of the eyeshadow creasing or fading during the day.
• Avoid Shimmery Shades on the Hood: Shimmer can accentuate the hooded part of your eye and make it appear more pronounced. Use matte shades in the crease to push the area back and avoid bringing attention to it.
• Always check your eye makeup from multiple angles: Look at yourself from different distances and in different lighting. Be sure to do this as you are applying the make up, not just once you think you’ve completed the look.

Advanced Techniques

Once you’ve mastered the basics, you can explore some advanced techniques for hooded eyes:

• Cut Crease: Creates a defined crease by cutting across the mobile lid with concealer, allowing for a sharp separation between the transition and lid shades.
• Halo Eye: Places the main color on the center of the lid, with darker shades on the inner and outer corners.
• Smokey Eye: Blends dark shades into the lid, outer corner, and lower lash line for a sultry look. Be sure to keep the deepest colors contained to the outer corners of the eye, so they don’t overwhelm the mobile lid.

Conclusion

Applying eyeshadow on hooded eyes may seem challenging at first, but with the right techniques, tools, and a little patience, you can achieve stunning results. Remember to focus on creating a “fake crease” above your natural one, blending thoroughly, and using matte shades to add depth and dimension. Don’t be afraid to experiment and find what works best for you. With practice, you’ll be rocking beautiful eyeshadow looks that enhance your natural beauty and leave you feeling confident and radiant.

Now go forth and create some captivating eye looks! You got this!