Mastering the Rethreaded Figure 8: A Comprehensive Guide to Climbing Safety

For climbers, the figure 8 knot is more than just a piece of ropework; it’s a lifeline. When tied correctly, it provides a secure and reliable connection to your harness, acting as a crucial link in the safety system that allows us to challenge gravity. While there are several variations of this knot, the rethreaded figure 8 stands out as the most widely accepted and recommended for climbing applications. This article will delve deep into the intricacies of tying a perfect rethreaded figure 8, equipping you with the knowledge and skills needed for a safe and enjoyable climbing experience.

Why the Rethreaded Figure 8?

Before we jump into the “how,” let’s understand the “why.” Why is the rethreaded figure 8 so popular and favored by climbers? The answer lies in its strength, reliability, and ease of visual inspection.

• Strength and Security: The rethreaded figure 8 is a robust knot that can withstand substantial loads. It distributes the force evenly across the strands, minimizing the risk of slippage or failure under tension.
• Ease of Inspection: Once tied, the knot’s structure makes it relatively easy to visually inspect for correctness. A properly tied figure 8 should have a distinct, recognizable pattern, allowing you to quickly identify any errors.
• Reduced Chance of Coming Undone: Unlike some other knots, the rethreaded figure 8 has a low tendency to loosen or unravel under load. It maintains its integrity, ensuring a secure connection throughout your climb.
• Widely Accepted Standard: Its widespread use within the climbing community means that climbers worldwide are generally familiar with the knot, promoting consistency and safety practices.

Equipment You’ll Need

Before you begin, gather the necessary equipment:

• Climbing Rope: You’ll need a climbing rope in good condition. Ensure it’s free from any signs of wear, fraying, or damage.
• Climbing Harness: Your harness should be properly fitted and in good working order. Check that all buckles and straps are secure.
• Practice Area: Choose a safe and comfortable place to practice tying the knot, free from distractions or obstructions. A carpeted area or a large flat surface is ideal.

Step-by-Step Guide to Tying the Rethreaded Figure 8

Now, let’s get into the details of tying the rethreaded figure 8. This knot is essentially made of two parts: The first part is tying the basic figure 8, and the second is rethreading the rope back through the figure 8. Here’s a comprehensive, step-by-step guide with detailed instructions and images to guide you:

Step 1: Creating the Initial Figure 8

1. Hold the end of your climbing rope with one hand, leaving a sufficient length of rope to work with, around 1.5 to 2 meters (about 5-7 feet). This length will allow you to tie the knot and have plenty of tail left over for the rethreading and a safety backup.

2. Form a loop in the rope, holding the two ends together to form a circle. Think of this as forming the number “0”.

3. Bring the working end (the end you are holding) of the rope over the front of the loop and then pass it down through the loop. This creates the first part of the number “8”.

4. You should now have a loop in the rope that looks like the figure 8. Maintain control of the rope ends.

5. Gently pull on the rope ends to tighten the knot, but don’t make it too tight yet.

Step 2: Rethreading the Figure 8

1. Locate the loop of rope that is connected to the main rope and where the loop emerges (enters the figure 8) from the main rope.

2. Take the working end of the rope (the end you used to form the figure 8) and begin to feed it back through the figure 8, following the same path as the loop. In essence, you are tracing the figure 8 that you just made, but moving in the opposite direction.

3. Carefully insert the working end into the knot, guiding it back through all the parts that you passed it through to form the figure 8. It should go along the same path as the existing figure 8 rope.

4. Continue to feed the working end through the entire figure 8 until the working end emerges next to the point where the loop enters the knot.

Step 3: Tightening the Rethreaded Figure 8

1. Before fully tightening the knot, check that the rethreaded end comes back out from the knot parallel to the end connected to the main rope.

2. Now that you are sure the rethreading is done correctly, hold both parts of the main rope and the working end in your hand. The strands of rope that form the figure eight should now be parallel to each other.

3. Begin gently and evenly tightening the knot. You should be pulling on all strands of the rope at the same time to ensure that the knot is formed correctly.

4. Make sure all strands are neatly aligned and tight, and that there are no kinks or loose loops in the knot. The final knot should look firm and consistent.

5. Leave a tail of about 8-10 inches of rope coming out of the knot. This excess rope is crucial as it provides an extra margin of safety and is a visual indication that you have a long enough tail to not pull through the knot during use. Do not trim this tail.

Step 4: Clipping into Your Harness

1. Identify the two hard points on your climbing harness’s tie-in points. These should be the two loops at the front of your harness.

2. Take the loop that you’ve just created on the end of your rope and carefully and slowly pass it through BOTH tie-in points on your harness.

3. Take the completed figure 8 knot and, with care, make sure that you pull the knot through the tie-in points on your harness until it is up against the harness. Make sure there are no twists in the rope or the figure 8 knot as you do this.

4. Finally, double-check that the knot is correctly attached to your harness and that the tail is of the appropriate length.

Step 5: The Importance of the Back-Up Knot

It’s essential to tie a backup knot at the end of your tail. There is the option to leave it untied, and many climbers do so, but in all cases you should still be sure that the length of your tail is adequate for your climbing activities. Tying a back-up knot is a good practice for all climbers. A back-up knot acts as a safety measure to help prevent slippage of the tail through the figure 8 knot if it were to loosen. A simple overhand knot should do.

1. Take the end of your tail and make a loop in it.

2. Pass the end of your tail through the loop.

3. Tighten the knot carefully and be sure that it is securely in place.

Crucial Checks and Considerations

Once you’ve tied the knot, it’s imperative to perform thorough checks before you start climbing. These checks are often referred to as the “buddy check.” Remember, safety is paramount, and a few extra seconds can make a world of difference.

• Visual Inspection: Carefully examine the knot. The strands of the rope should be neat and parallel, and there shouldn’t be any twists or crossing. The tail of the rope should be of an appropriate length and there should be no exposed areas of the knot that look loose or untidy.
• The “Follow the Rope” Check: Visually follow the rope from its beginning to its end through the knot. Make sure the working end goes through the correct path and emerges in the right place, in parallel to the line from the main rope. This process can help you identify any errors in your threading.
• Proper Tie-In: Confirm that the knot is correctly attached to your harness’s tie-in points and that it is pulled up to the harness, with no slack between the knot and the harness.
• Tail Length: Ensure the tail is of the appropriate length (at least 8-10 inches) and secured with your back up knot if you choose to use one.
• Partner Check: Have your climbing partner check your knot as well. Four eyes are always better than two! This will help ensure both of you are confident in your set up.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

When learning to tie the rethreaded figure 8, it’s common to make mistakes. Recognizing these common errors will help you avoid them and tie a safer knot:

• Incorrect Rethreading: This is one of the most common errors, where the working end doesn’t follow the correct path back through the knot. If you are unsure, always undo the knot and try again until you get it right.
• Too Tight or Loose: Either extreme is problematic. If too tight, it’s difficult to untie; if too loose, it can come undone under load. The key is to get it just right with enough tension to maintain its structure, without over tightening.
• Insufficient Tail: If the tail is too short it could slip through the knot during a fall. Always maintain the correct length.
• Twists or Crossings: The strands of the rope should be neat and parallel, not twisted or crossed. These misalignments can weaken the knot. Always take care that no part of the rope twists during threading or tightening.
• Failure to Back Up: Not creating a back-up knot is a big safety risk. This is not always done but is good practice.

Practice Makes Perfect

Tying a perfect rethreaded figure 8 requires patience and practice. Don’t be discouraged if it doesn’t come naturally at first. The key to mastering this crucial knot is repetition. Start by practicing on the ground until you are comfortable and confident in your ability to tie it consistently and correctly. You can practice at home, at your local climbing gym, or under the supervision of an experienced climber. Always prioritize safety over speed, and never rush the process of tying this essential knot.

Resources for Further Learning

While this article provides a comprehensive guide, there are many other excellent resources available to help you learn more about climbing knots and safety practices.

• Climbing Gyms: Local climbing gyms are great resources and offer lessons with qualified instructors.
• Online Videos: There are many reputable online videos demonstrating how to tie the rethreaded figure 8. Check YouTube and other educational platforms.
• Climbing Books and Guides: Books written by expert climbers are another great resource. Look for books covering climbing techniques and ropework.
• Experienced Climbers: Learning from experienced climbers can also be a great way to pick up new tips, and get feedback on your techniques.

Conclusion: Your Path to Safe Climbing

The rethreaded figure 8 is the cornerstone of safe climbing. By understanding its importance and diligently practicing the steps outlined in this article, you can ensure a secure and enjoyable climbing experience. Always remember that safety comes first, and never hesitate to double-check your knot before embarking on a climb. With knowledge, practice, and dedication, you’ll master this essential climbing skill and climb confidently, safely, and to your potential!