The Complete Guide to Breeding Cockatiels: From Pairing to Fledging

Breeding cockatiels can be a rewarding experience, allowing you to witness the miracle of new life and potentially expand your feathered family. However, it’s a significant commitment that requires careful planning, preparation, and a thorough understanding of cockatiel behavior and needs. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each stage of the breeding process, from selecting suitable pairs to caring for the chicks until they’re independent.

Is Breeding Right for You?

Before you even consider putting a pair together, ask yourself these critical questions:

Do you have the time and resources? Breeding cockatiels demands significant time for feeding, cleaning, and monitoring. You’ll also need financial resources for housing, food, vet care, and potential emergencies.
Do you have suitable housing? You need a large cage or aviary specifically designed for breeding, plus a separate cage for when the parents and young are separated or the chicks are weaned and ready to go.
Are you prepared for potential complications? Things don’t always go smoothly. Egg binding, chick abandonment, and genetic issues are just some challenges you might face.
Do you have a plan for the chicks? It’s important to have a strategy for finding responsible homes for the offspring, or the ability to care for a larger flock.
Are you aware of local laws and regulations? Some areas may have restrictions on breeding birds.

If you’ve carefully considered these questions and feel confident in your ability to provide for the needs of breeding cockatiels, then you can proceed.

Step 1: Choosing the Right Breeding Pair

Selecting healthy, compatible cockatiels is paramount to successful breeding. Here’s what to look for:

Age

Optimal Breeding Age: Cockatiels should be at least 18 months old and preferably under 5-6 years old for females. Males can breed for longer. Breeding birds too young can lead to complications such as egg binding, and can stunt the growth of the female.
Avoid Breeding Senior Birds: Older birds, particularly females, may experience more complications during breeding.

Health and Temperament

Physical Health: Choose birds that are active, alert, have bright eyes, clean feathers, and healthy weight. Avoid birds that show signs of illness or lethargy. A visit to an avian vet before breeding is recommended to ensure they are free from disease.
Temperament: It is best to have a docile pair that are friendly towards each other. Some pairs just do not get along, and it’s not recommended to breed incompatible birds as this will often lead to issues.
Avoid Pairing Related Birds: Never breed cockatiels that are directly related (parents, siblings). Inbreeding can lead to severe health problems and deformities in offspring. It’s best to purchase birds from different breeders.

Morph and Color

Understanding Genetics: Research the different color mutations of cockatiels and understand basic genetics. This will help you predict the possible colors of your offspring. Some color combinations are more difficult to produce than others.
Ethical Breeding: Avoid breeding for specific color mutations that are known to be associated with health problems. Focus on breeding for health first and color second.

Pair Bonding

Natural Pairing: It is ideal to allow the birds to choose each other. Observe potential pairs for compatibility. Look for signs such as mutual preening, close proximity, and gentle cooing.
Introducing Birds: Start by introducing the birds to each other in separate cages next to each other, allowing them to become accustomed to one another. You can try supervised time together outside the cage to observe their interactions. If they seem aggressive, they are not a good match.
Patience: It can take time for birds to bond. Don’t force a pairing; a compatible match is crucial for successful breeding.

Step 2: Preparing the Breeding Cage

A suitable breeding environment is crucial for the health and well-being of the parents and their future chicks. Here’s how to set up your breeding cage:

Cage Size

Spacious Enclosure: The cage should be large enough for the pair to move around comfortably and have ample space for nesting, as well as for the chicks. A minimum size would be 30 x 20 x 30 inches, however bigger is always better. An aviary is ideal if you have the space for it.
Horizontal Bars: Choose a cage with horizontal bars to allow the cockatiels to easily climb around. Vertical bars are more difficult for them to climb.
Sturdy Construction: The cage should be well-built and secure. Ensure there are no gaps where the birds could escape.

Nesting Box

Appropriate Size: A nest box that is too small will be uncomfortable for the birds and can lead to damaged eggs or young. A nest box that is too large will encourage the parents to create a very large clutch, and this can be hard for the female. A good size is approximately 12 x 12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 x 30 cm) or slightly larger, with an entrance hole around 3-4 inches in diameter.
Material: Use a wooden nest box made of untreated wood. Avoid using plastic, metal, or cardboard boxes. Cedar and pine are generally not safe to use, hardwood boxes are ideal.
Placement: Attach the nest box to the outside of the cage with access through a side entrance. It should be placed as high as possible for the bird’s safety.
Nesting Material: Line the bottom of the nest box with safe material such as wood shavings or paper shreds, or un-treated wood chips. Avoid using soft fabrics or cotton which can become tangled or ingested by the chicks. Do not add too much material, the pair will often move material around themselves to create their own nest.

Perches and Toys

Varied Perches: Provide perches of different sizes and textures to keep their feet healthy. Natural wood perches are preferred.
Safe Toys: Offer a few safe toys that they can chew and play with. Avoid toys with small parts that could be swallowed, especially after chicks hatch.

Food and Water

Separate Dishes: Use separate food and water dishes and place them in different locations in the cage.
Easy Access: Ensure the birds can easily access food and water, even when they are incubating.
Fresh Water Daily: Provide fresh, clean water daily and clean water bowls regularly.

Location

Quiet and Calm: Place the breeding cage in a quiet location away from high-traffic areas or loud noises. Avoid direct sunlight, extreme heat or drafts.
Good Air Circulation: Ensure the area has good air circulation to prevent the build-up of ammonia or odours.

Step 3: Providing Proper Nutrition

Nutrition plays a critical role in successful breeding. A balanced diet will ensure that the parents are in optimal condition for breeding, laying healthy eggs, and feeding the chicks.

Seed Mix

High-Quality Mix: Choose a high-quality cockatiel seed mix as a staple diet. Do not feed a pure seed diet, as this is not sufficient.
Supplementation: Seed mixes can be supplemented with other foods to ensure a well balanced diet.

Pellets

Nutritionally Complete: Cockatiel pellets are a good source of balanced nutrition. Ensure you purchase a high quality pellet.
Gradual Introduction: If the birds are not used to pellets, introduce them slowly along with their seed mix. It may take them some time to accept it.

Fresh Fruits and Vegetables

Variety: Offer a variety of safe fruits and vegetables daily. Some good options include carrots, spinach, kale, broccoli, peas, apples, and berries.
Wash Thoroughly: Make sure to wash all produce before feeding it to your birds.
Remove Uneaten Food: Remove any uneaten fresh food after a few hours to prevent spoilage.

Protein

Increased Protein: Breeding pairs need additional protein. Offer cooked eggs (with shell), cooked chicken, or sprouted seeds.
Small Amounts: Do not overfeed protein. It should only be a supplement to their main diet.

Calcium

Essential for Egg Production: Calcium is essential for female birds to form healthy eggshells. Supplement their diet with calcium sources such as cuttlebone or calcium supplements from an avian vet.
Cuttlebone: A cuttlebone should be available to them at all times.

Water

Fresh, Clean Water: Provide fresh, clean water daily, in a clean bowl.

Step 4: Encouraging Breeding Behaviour

Once you have a bonded pair, a suitable environment, and proper nutrition, you can start encouraging breeding behavior.

Observation

Monitor Behaviour: Observe the birds closely for signs of mating behavior, such as the male strutting, bobbing his head, singing, or feeding the female.
Provide Privacy: Avoid unnecessary disturbances or disruptions that can stress the birds.

Nest Box Inspection

Limited Inspection: Once the pair starts showing interest in the nest box, limit inspections. Do not constantly open the box, as this can be stressful.
Check for Laying: Inspect the box briefly every few days for signs of eggs.

Maintain Routine

Consistent Schedule: Keep a consistent schedule for feeding, cleaning, and handling, to help reduce stress.

Step 5: Egg Laying and Incubation

The egg-laying and incubation period is a critical phase. It’s essential to understand what to expect and how to support the parents during this time.

Egg Laying

Clutch Size: Cockatiels typically lay between 4-8 eggs per clutch, laid every 1-2 days.
Start of Incubation: The parents usually start incubating after the second or third egg is laid.
Calcium Supplement: Continue providing calcium supplements during the egg-laying phase.

Incubation Period

Duration: The incubation period lasts approximately 18-21 days.
Parental Roles: Both parents will usually share incubation duties, with the female typically sitting on the eggs most of the time, and the male taking a turn for shorter periods.
Minimize Disturbances: Avoid disturbing the parents during the incubation period. Refrain from touching or moving the eggs. Do not remove the eggs from the box to check them unless absolutely necessary.

Candling

Checking Fertility: After a week, you can candle the eggs with a small torch to check for signs of fertility. Fertile eggs should have visible veins. This should only be done if you are experienced, and if you are confident that you can do this without damaging the eggs. It’s not essential to do this, but may be helpful to identify any infertile eggs that need to be removed, to ensure they don’t impact the development of the other chicks.
Gentle Handling: Handle the eggs carefully and return them to the nest box right away.

Step 6: Hatching and Chick Care

The arrival of chicks is a joyous occasion, but also requires careful monitoring and support.

Hatching

Gradual Hatching: The chicks will hatch over a period of several days, in the same order the eggs were laid.
Observe Hatching: Observe the parents and chicks. Do not disturb them unless there is a known problem.

Feeding

Parental Feeding: Initially, the parents will feed the chicks with crop milk, a nutrient-rich liquid produced in their crop.
Supplementary Feeding: It is not necessary to hand feed chicks unless the parents are not feeding them properly, or in the event that there is an orphaned chick.
Soft Foods: Ensure the parents have easy access to a nutritious diet and soft foods such as cooked sweet potato, mash, or soaked pellets to feed to the chicks.

Monitoring Chick Health

Weight Gain: Chicks should be growing each day. If a chick is not growing, this is a sign that it may need to be hand fed.
Crop Fullness: The chicks crop (the area on their chest where food is stored) should be full after they have been fed by the parents. If the crop is empty, the chicks should be given supplementary feeding.
Check for Issues: Keep a close eye on the chicks for any signs of illness, such as lethargy, feather plucking, or unusual behavior.

Hand Feeding (If Necessary)

Emergency Situations: Hand feeding is needed if the parents abandon the chicks, aren’t feeding them enough, or when one or more chicks are not thriving.
Proper Formula: Use a high-quality hand-feeding formula specifically designed for baby birds.
Correct Feeding Techniques: Use the correct feeding technique, and only feed the chick when the crop is empty. Do not over feed, as this could cause a sour crop.
Cleanliness: Ensure that you are meticulous with cleanliness while hand-feeding to prevent bacterial or fungal infections.

Hygiene

Clean Nest Box: Clean the nest box only if needed, when the chicks are older and able to withstand the disturbance. Do not remove all the bedding material, or fully clean the nest box when the chicks are young, as this will affect the parents.
Clean Cage: Regularly clean the cage and food/water dishes.

Step 7: Fledging and Weaning

As the chicks grow, they will transition from the nest box to exploring the world outside.

Fledging

Leaving the Nest: Around 4-5 weeks old, the chicks will begin to fledge, leaving the nest box and exploring the cage.
First Flight: The chicks will begin to learn to fly, but it may take time for them to be able to fly properly.
Monitor Movement: Ensure the chicks are able to move around the cage safely and that there are no hazards.

Weaning

Gradual Weaning: The weaning process occurs gradually. The parents will begin to reduce their feeding of the chicks, and the chicks will begin to try solid foods.
Offer Solid Foods: Provide a variety of easily accessible solid foods, such as soaked pellets, seed mix, soft fruit and vegetables.
Independent Feeding: By 8-10 weeks, most chicks will be fully weaned and able to feed themselves completely.

Separation

Weaned Chicks: Once chicks are fully weaned and independent, you can move them to a new cage.
Parental Separation: If you don’t want to have the pair continue to breed, you can also separate them. The parents are likely to try to start breeding again once the previous chicks are independent.

Step 8: Post-Breeding Care

After the chicks have been weaned and separated, it’s time to focus on the health and well-being of the parents.

Nutritional Support

Balanced Diet: Continue providing a balanced diet and supplement their diet with calcium if needed.
Rest and Recovery: Breeding can be taxing for birds. Ensure they are getting enough rest and proper nutrition.

Monitor Health

Regular Check-ups: Keep an eye on the parent’s health for any signs of stress, illness, or feather plucking.
Avian Vet: Schedule an avian vet check-up if you have any concerns.

Deciding on Future Breeding

Consider a Rest Period: Do not breed birds too frequently. Give them a rest period between clutches to replenish their reserves.
Limit Breeding: It is recommended to only allow a pair to produce a maximum of 2-3 clutches per year.

Common Breeding Problems

Breeding can sometimes present challenges. Be prepared for some of these common problems:

Egg Binding: When an egg gets stuck in the female’s reproductive tract. This is a medical emergency that requires veterinary intervention.
Infertile Eggs: Some eggs might be infertile and will not hatch.
Chick Abandonment: Sometimes, parents may abandon their chicks, requiring you to hand-raise them.
Parental Aggression: In rare cases, parents may become aggressive towards their chicks or each other.
Genetic Issues: Some offspring may inherit genetic health problems.

Conclusion

Breeding cockatiels is a significant undertaking that requires commitment, preparation, and a deep understanding of these beautiful birds. By following this detailed guide, you can increase your chances of success and provide a healthy, nurturing environment for both parents and their offspring. Remember, responsible breeding is about prioritizing health and well-being above all else. If you are uncertain about any aspect of breeding, always consult with an experienced breeder or an avian veterinarian.