Bleaching black hair can be a daunting task, fraught with the potential for damage and undesirable results. However, with the right approach and products, you can achieve stunning blonde or lighter shades while minimizing harm. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about bleaching black hair, from choosing the best bleach to aftercare tips. We’ll cover different types of bleach, developers, application techniques, and how to maintain healthy, vibrant hair throughout the process. Whether you’re aiming for a subtle lightening or a dramatic transformation, this guide will equip you with the knowledge to achieve your desired look safely and effectively.
Understanding Black Hair and Bleach
Before diving into the bleaching process, it’s crucial to understand the unique characteristics of black hair. Black hair, also known as Afro-textured or kinky hair, is typically more fragile and prone to dryness than other hair types. Its tightly coiled structure makes it harder for natural oils to travel down the hair shaft, leading to increased susceptibility to damage.
Bleach works by penetrating the hair cuticle and oxidizing the melanin, the pigment that gives hair its color. This process weakens the hair structure, making it more vulnerable to breakage and damage. Therefore, it’s essential to approach bleaching black hair with caution and use products specifically formulated for delicate hair.
Choosing the Right Bleach: A Detailed Breakdown
Selecting the right bleach is paramount to achieving successful and healthy results. Here’s a breakdown of the different types of bleach and their suitability for black hair:
1. Powder Bleach: The Workhorse of Lightening
Powder bleach is the most common type of bleach used in professional salons. It comes in a powder form that needs to be mixed with a developer. The strength of the bleach depends on the volume of developer used.
- Pros: Highly effective for lifting multiple levels of darkness, cost-effective, readily available.
- Cons: Can be harsh on hair if not used correctly, requires precise mixing and application, higher risk of damage if over-processed.
- Best for: Significant color changes, lifting stubborn pigments, experienced users.
Popular Powder Bleach Options:
- Wella Blondor Powder Lightener: A popular choice known for its consistent lifting power and anti-yellow molecules.
- L’Oreal Quick Blue Powder Bleach: A powerful bleach suitable for lifting dark hair quickly, but requires careful monitoring.
- Matrix Light Master Lightening Powder: Contains conditioning agents to help protect the hair during the bleaching process.
2. Cream Bleach: A Gentler Option
Cream bleach is a milder alternative to powder bleach. It typically contains oils and conditioning agents that help to protect the hair during the bleaching process.
- Pros: Less harsh than powder bleach, easier to apply, more moisturizing.
- Cons: May not lift as quickly or effectively as powder bleach, can be more expensive.
- Best for: Fine or damaged hair, subtle lightening, beginners.
Popular Cream Bleach Options:
- Clairol BW2 Bleach: A classic cream bleach known for its gentle lifting action.
- Redken Flash Lift Bonder Inside: Contains a bond-building additive to help strengthen the hair during bleaching.
- Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe Premium Lift 9+: A high-performance cream bleach that can lift up to 9 levels while minimizing damage.
3. Oil Bleach: The Most Gentle Choice
Oil bleach is the gentlest type of bleach available. It’s infused with oils that help to nourish and protect the hair during the bleaching process. However, it also has the weakest lifting power.
- Pros: Least damaging option, highly moisturizing, suitable for sensitive scalps.
- Cons: Very limited lifting power, may require multiple applications, not suitable for significant color changes.
- Best for: Very fine or damaged hair, subtle highlights, minimal lightening.
Popular Oil Bleach Options:
- Manic Panic Flash Lightning Bleach Kit (30 Volume): Although labeled as a kit, the bleaching component leans toward an oil-based formula with moisturizing additives.
- Beyond the Zone Radical Bleach Kit: Another kit that incorporates oils to mitigate damage during the bleaching process. Read the ingredients to confirm the oil content.
Choosing the Right Developer: The Key to Controlled Lightening
Developer, also known as hydrogen peroxide, is the activating agent that works with the bleach to lift the hair’s color. The volume of the developer indicates its strength, with higher volumes resulting in faster and more significant lightening. However, higher volumes also carry a greater risk of damage.
- 10 Volume Developer: Provides the least amount of lift and is ideal for subtle lightening, toning, or depositing color. Minimal damage.
- 20 Volume Developer: Offers moderate lift and is suitable for lifting 1-2 levels. A good choice for less fragile hair or when using a cream bleach.
- 30 Volume Developer: Provides significant lift and is ideal for lifting 2-3 levels. Use with caution on dark hair, as it can cause damage if over-processed.
- 40 Volume Developer: Offers the most lift and is only recommended for experienced professionals working with very dark hair. High risk of damage and scalp irritation. Generally not recommended for home use on black hair.
For black hair, it’s generally recommended to use a 20 or 30 volume developer. Start with a 20 volume developer if your hair is fine, damaged, or you’re aiming for a subtle lightening. If you need more lift, you can gradually increase to a 30 volume developer, but always monitor your hair closely and avoid over-processing.
Essential Tools and Supplies
Before you begin the bleaching process, gather all the necessary tools and supplies:
- Bleach powder or cream
- Developer (20 or 30 volume)
- Non-metallic mixing bowl
- Applicator brush
- Gloves
- Old towel or cape
- Hair clips
- Wide-tooth comb
- Petroleum jelly (to protect the hairline)
- Timer
- Shampoo and conditioner for color-treated hair
- Deep conditioner or hair mask
- Toner (optional, to neutralize unwanted tones)
Step-by-Step Guide to Bleaching Black Hair
Follow these detailed steps to bleach your black hair safely and effectively:
1. Preparation is Key
- Strand Test: Before applying bleach to your entire head, perform a strand test to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach and developer mixture. This will help you determine the appropriate processing time and minimize the risk of damage. Select a small, hidden section of hair (e.g., underneath at the nape of the neck) and apply the bleach mixture. Check it every 5-10 minutes until you achieve the desired level of lift or reach the maximum recommended processing time.
- Protect Your Skin: Apply petroleum jelly to your hairline, ears, and neck to prevent the bleach from irritating your skin.
- Wear Protective Gear: Put on gloves and an old towel or cape to protect your clothes from bleach stains.
- Detangle Your Hair: Gently detangle your hair with a wide-tooth comb to remove any knots or tangles.
- Don’t Wash Your Hair: Do not wash your hair for at least 24-48 hours before bleaching. Natural oils help to protect the scalp and hair from the harsh chemicals in the bleach.
2. Mixing the Bleach
- Follow the Instructions: Carefully read and follow the instructions on the bleach and developer packaging.
- Mix in a Non-Metallic Bowl: In a non-metallic mixing bowl, combine the bleach powder or cream with the developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. A common ratio is 1 part bleach to 2 parts developer, but this may vary depending on the brand and desired consistency.
- Mix Thoroughly: Mix the ingredients thoroughly until you achieve a smooth, creamy consistency. Avoid lumps, as they can cause uneven lightening.
3. Applying the Bleach
- Divide Your Hair: Divide your hair into four sections using hair clips. This will make it easier to apply the bleach evenly.
- Start at the Roots: Apply the bleach mixture to the roots first, as they require the most processing time. Use the applicator brush to saturate the roots thoroughly.
- Work Your Way Down: Once the roots are covered, apply the bleach mixture to the rest of your hair, working your way down from the roots to the ends. Ensure that each strand is fully coated with the bleach mixture.
- Apply Quickly and Evenly: Work quickly and evenly to ensure that all sections of your hair are processed for the same amount of time.
- Avoid Overlapping: Avoid overlapping the bleach on previously lightened hair, as this can cause damage and breakage.
4. Processing Time
- Monitor Closely: Monitor your hair closely during the processing time. Check the color every 5-10 minutes to assess the progress.
- Don’t Exceed the Maximum Time: Do not exceed the maximum processing time recommended on the bleach packaging. Over-processing can cause severe damage and breakage. The strand test you performed earlier will give you a good indication of processing time.
- Average Processing Time: The average processing time for bleaching black hair is 20-45 minutes, but this can vary depending on the hair’s thickness, texture, and desired level of lift.
- Heat (Optional): Applying a heat cap or sitting under a hooded dryer can speed up the processing time, but it also increases the risk of damage. If you choose to use heat, monitor your hair even more closely and reduce the processing time accordingly.
5. Rinsing and Washing
- Rinse Thoroughly: Once the processing time is complete, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until all traces of bleach are removed.
- Shampoo with Color-Safe Shampoo: Shampoo your hair with a color-safe shampoo to remove any remaining bleach residue.
- Avoid Harsh Rubbing: Avoid harsh rubbing or scrubbing, as this can damage the hair.
6. Toning (Optional)
- Neutralize Unwanted Tones: If your hair has brassy or yellow tones after bleaching, you can use a toner to neutralize these tones and achieve your desired color.
- Choose the Right Toner: Choose a toner that is specifically formulated for bleached hair. Purple toners are effective for neutralizing yellow tones, while blue toners are effective for neutralizing orange tones.
- Apply the Toner: Apply the toner according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Rinse and Condition: Rinse the toner thoroughly and condition your hair with a color-safe conditioner.
7. Deep Conditioning
- Restore Moisture: Bleaching can strip the hair of its natural moisture, so it’s essential to replenish this moisture with a deep conditioner or hair mask.
- Apply Deep Conditioner: Apply a generous amount of deep conditioner to your hair and leave it on for at least 30 minutes, or longer if desired.
- Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse the deep conditioner thoroughly with cool water.
Aftercare Tips for Bleached Black Hair
Proper aftercare is crucial for maintaining the health and vibrancy of bleached black hair. Follow these tips to keep your hair looking its best:
- Moisturize Regularly: Bleached hair tends to be dry, so it’s important to moisturize it regularly. Use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner, and apply a leave-in conditioner or hair oil daily.
- Avoid Heat Styling: Heat styling can further damage bleached hair, so it’s best to avoid it as much as possible. If you must use heat, use a heat protectant spray and use the lowest heat setting.
- Use Protective Styles: Protective styles, such as braids, twists, and weaves, can help to protect your hair from damage and breakage.
- Trim Regularly: Trim your hair regularly to remove split ends and prevent further damage.
- Avoid Over-Processing: Avoid bleaching your hair too frequently, as this can lead to severe damage. Wait at least 6-8 weeks between bleaching sessions.
- Protein Treatments: Incorporate protein treatments into your hair care routine to help strengthen the hair and prevent breakage. Be careful not to overdo protein, which can make hair brittle. Alternate with moisture treatments.
- Satin or Silk Pillowcase: Sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase to reduce friction and prevent breakage.
Dealing with Common Problems
Even with careful planning, issues can arise during or after bleaching. Here’s how to address some common problems:
- Brassy or Yellow Tones: As mentioned earlier, use a toner specifically formulated for bleached hair. Purple shampoo can also help maintain a cooler tone.
- Dry and Brittle Hair: Focus on deep conditioning treatments. Consider using hair oils like coconut oil, argan oil, or jojoba oil.
- Breakage: Reduce heat styling, use protein treatments (sparingly), and trim split ends regularly. If breakage is severe, consult a professional stylist.
- Scalp Irritation: Use a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo. Avoid scratching your scalp. If irritation persists, consult a dermatologist.
- Uneven Lightening: This often happens due to inconsistent application. For minor unevenness, you can try spot-treating the darker areas. For more significant issues, consult a professional.
When to Seek Professional Help
While this guide provides comprehensive information, bleaching black hair can be challenging, and sometimes it’s best to seek professional help. Consider consulting a professional stylist if:
- You’re attempting a significant color change (e.g., going from black to platinum blonde).
- Your hair is already damaged or weak.
- You’re unsure about the process or products.
- You’ve experienced negative reactions to hair dye or bleach in the past.
Conclusion
Bleaching black hair is a process that requires careful planning, execution, and aftercare. By understanding the unique characteristics of black hair, choosing the right products, and following the steps outlined in this guide, you can achieve stunning results while minimizing damage. Remember to prioritize the health of your hair and don’t hesitate to seek professional help if needed. With patience and dedication, you can transform your black hair into a vibrant and beautiful masterpiece.