The Ultimate Guide to Growing Long, Healthy Relaxed Hair

Relaxed hair, while offering a smoother and often more manageable texture, requires a specific care regimen to thrive and reach its full potential. Many women with relaxed hair struggle with breakage, dryness, and slow growth, often due to improper techniques and product choices. But fear not! Achieving long, healthy relaxed hair is absolutely within reach. This comprehensive guide will provide you with the knowledge and steps needed to cultivate beautiful, flourishing relaxed locks. We’ll delve into everything from the relaxing process itself to daily maintenance, focusing on crucial aspects like moisture, protein balance, and gentle handling. Get ready to embark on a journey to healthier, longer, and more vibrant relaxed hair.

Understanding Relaxed Hair

Before we dive into the ‘how-to’s,’ it’s essential to understand what relaxed hair is and what it needs. Relaxing involves using a chemical straightener to alter the natural structure of your hair, breaking down the protein bonds that give it its curl or coil. This process permanently changes the hair’s texture, making it straighter but also more susceptible to damage and dryness if not cared for correctly. Because the hair is structurally weakened, it requires more diligent care than natural hair. Common challenges include breakage at the point of relaxation (the line of demarcation), excessive dryness, and a tendency to become brittle. Therefore, understanding these potential issues is crucial in creating a healthy hair growth strategy.

The Relaxing Process: Laying the Foundation for Healthy Growth

The relaxing process itself significantly impacts the long-term health of your relaxed hair. It’s not just about getting straight hair; it’s about ensuring the process is done with care and precision. Therefore, consider visiting a professional stylist experienced in relaxing hair. However, if you choose to relax your hair at home, here are some critical steps to follow:

1. Preparation is Key:
   • Don’t Wash Before: Avoid washing your hair at least 48-72 hours before relaxing. The natural oils act as a protective barrier on your scalp, reducing the risk of irritation and burns.
   • Protect Your Scalp: Apply a base cream (petroleum jelly or a scalp protectant) to your scalp and hairline before applying the relaxer. This will prevent chemical burns and irritation.
   • Strand Test: ALWAYS perform a strand test before applying relaxer to your entire head. This helps you determine the appropriate processing time for your specific hair texture and desired level of straightness.
2. Relaxer Application:
   • Sectioning: Divide your hair into four sections, making it easier to apply the relaxer evenly and thoroughly.
   • Application Technique: Apply the relaxer to the NEW GROWTH only, avoiding previously relaxed hair. This is vital to prevent over-processing and breakage.
   • Timing: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for processing time carefully. Do not leave the relaxer on longer than recommended, even if your hair doesn’t appear completely straight. Over-processing causes severe damage.
3. Rinsing and Neutralizing:
   • Thorough Rinse: Rinse the relaxer out thoroughly with lukewarm water. Ensure every trace of the relaxer is removed from your hair.
   • Neutralizing Shampoo: Use a neutralizing shampoo to restore your hair’s pH balance after relaxing. Neutralizing shampoos are specifically formulated to stop the relaxing process. Shampoo at least two to three times until the water runs clear and the shampoo lathers properly (indicating the relaxer is completely removed).
   • Deep Conditioning: Immediately after neutralizing, apply a deep conditioner rich in moisturizing ingredients. This helps replenish moisture lost during the relaxing process.

Essential Daily Care for Relaxed Hair

Once you’ve relaxed your hair, the real work begins. Daily care is the key to maintaining healthy, relaxed locks that grow long and strong. These steps focus on hydration, strength, and protection:

1. Moisture is Your Best Friend

Relaxed hair is prone to dryness, making moisture a crucial element in your hair care routine. Here’s how to keep your hair consistently hydrated:

• Water-Based Moisturizers: Choose moisturizers with water as the first ingredient. These are the most effective at penetrating the hair shaft. Look for products containing humectants like glycerin, honey, and aloe vera.
• L.O.C. Method (Liquid, Oil, Cream): This popular method layers moisture into the hair effectively. After washing, apply a water-based leave-in conditioner (Liquid), then a light oil (such as coconut, avocado, or argan) to seal in the moisture (Oil), and lastly, a moisturizing cream to further lock in the hydration.
• Daily Moisturizing: Don’t wait until your hair feels dry to moisturize. Applying a light moisturizer daily or every other day will keep your hair consistently hydrated and prevent dryness and breakage.
• Humidifier: Consider using a humidifier, especially during dry months, to add moisture back into the air, which benefits your hair and skin.

2. Deep Conditioning Regularly

Deep conditioning is non-negotiable for relaxed hair. It’s crucial to replenish lost moisture, improve elasticity, and reduce breakage. Aim to deep condition your hair at least once a week.

• Choose the Right Deep Conditioner: Look for deep conditioners that are rich in moisturizing ingredients such as shea butter, ceramides, glycerin, and natural oils.
• Heat is Key: Use a heat cap, hooded dryer, or a warm towel to gently heat your hair while deep conditioning. This allows the product to penetrate the hair shaft more effectively.
• Time Matters: Leave the deep conditioner on for the recommended time or longer for optimal results (usually 20-30 minutes).
• Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse the deep conditioner thoroughly with lukewarm water.

3. Protein Treatments: Balancing Strength

While moisture is paramount, protein treatments are equally important for maintaining the strength and structure of relaxed hair. Relaxing breaks down the hair’s protein bonds, making it more susceptible to breakage. Incorporating protein treatments will help rebuild these bonds, but balance is crucial. Too much protein can lead to stiffness and brittleness.

• Use Protein Treatments Sparingly: Use protein treatments every 4-6 weeks depending on your hair’s needs, especially if you have experienced excessive shedding or breakage.
• Protein and Moisture Balance: Always follow up a protein treatment with a deep moisturizing conditioner to prevent dryness and brittleness.
• Choose the Right Protein: Look for protein treatments containing hydrolyzed protein, keratin, or amino acids.
• Listen to Your Hair: If your hair feels hard and stiff after a protein treatment, you may be using it too frequently. Adjust your frequency accordingly.

4. Gentle Cleansing

Washing your relaxed hair gently is essential to avoid causing unnecessary friction and breakage. Here are some tips for proper cleansing:

• Frequency: Aim to wash your hair once a week or every other week, depending on your scalp’s needs. Avoid over-washing, which can strip the hair of its natural oils.
• Sulfate-Free Shampoo: Opt for a sulfate-free shampoo, which is much gentler on relaxed hair. Sulfates are harsh detergents that can dry out the hair.
• Focus on the Scalp: Gently massage the shampoo into your scalp to remove buildup, and let the suds run through the length of your hair. Avoid aggressively scrubbing or piling your hair on top of your head as that can cause breakage.
• Condition Every Time You Wash: Always follow up shampooing with a moisturizing conditioner to replenish lost moisture.

5. Low-Manipulation Styling

Excessive manipulation can cause breakage and hinder growth. Opt for low-manipulation styles that minimize stress on your hair:

• Protective Styles: Protective styles like braids, twists, buns, and weaves, tucked away, can protect your ends from damage. Be sure that these are not too tight, as that can cause traction alopecia (hair loss). Also, avoid keeping the same protective style in too long. Give your hair a break.
• Gentle Detangling: Detangle your hair gently using a wide-tooth comb or your fingers when the hair is damp and lubricated with conditioner or oil. Start from the ends and work your way up to avoid snagging and breakage.
• Avoid Tight Styles: Avoid excessively tight ponytails, buns, and braids, which can cause tension at the hairline and lead to breakage.
• Satin Protection: Use a satin scarf or bonnet at night to reduce friction and prevent breakage while you sleep. Also consider switching to satin pillowcases.

6. Trimming Your Ends

Trimming your ends is crucial for preventing split ends from traveling up the hair shaft and causing further breakage. This might seem counterintuitive when you are trying to grow your hair long, but consistent trimming is vital to healthy hair growth. Here’s why and how:

• Split End Prevention: Regular trims remove split ends before they can cause more severe damage.
• Frequency: Aim to trim your ends every 8-12 weeks, or more frequently if you notice split ends.
• Professional Trims: Whenever possible, have your ends trimmed by a professional stylist who is experienced in cutting relaxed hair.
• Dusting: If you are trying to retain length, you can try dusting, which is snipping off the very ends of your hair to get rid of splits while maintaining length.

7. Heat Styling: Approach with Caution

Heat styling, like using flat irons and curling irons, can cause significant damage to relaxed hair. Use heat sparingly and with caution:

• Limit Heat Styling: Try to limit heat styling to special occasions or once a week at most.
• Use Heat Protectant: Always apply a heat protectant before using any heat styling tools.
• Low Heat Settings: Use the lowest heat setting possible on your styling tools.
• Avoid Over-Styling: Avoid going over the same section of hair repeatedly, as this can lead to damage.

8. Diet and Hydration

Healthy hair growth starts from within. A balanced diet and sufficient water intake are essential for healthy hair:

• Balanced Diet: Eat a balanced diet rich in vitamins and minerals. Focus on foods rich in protein, iron, zinc, and biotin.
• Hydration: Drink plenty of water throughout the day to keep your hair and body properly hydrated.
• Supplements: Consider taking hair supplements, such as biotin, if needed, after consulting your doctor.

9. The Transitioning Stage (If You’re Re-Relaxing)

The line of demarcation between your relaxed hair and new growth is the most fragile part of your hair. The transitioning phase of getting your hair re-relaxed requires extra care. Here’s how to navigate this period:

• Minimize Stress: Avoid hairstyles that put excessive tension on the line of demarcation.
• Moisturize Thoroughly: Pay extra attention to moisturizing this area to prevent dryness and breakage.
• Protein Strength: It might be helpful to have a protein treatment the week or two prior to your relaxer. This is NOT a hard rule, but a suggestion. Protein will help strengthen the newly grown hair.
• Gentle Handling: Handle this area with utmost care when washing and detangling.
• Timely Re-Relaxing: Avoid stretching your relaxers for too long because too much new growth can make the process more difficult and prone to breakage.

10. Patience and Consistency

Growing healthy, long relaxed hair takes time, patience, and consistency. There are no miracle cures or overnight solutions. It’s a journey that requires dedication and a solid hair care routine. Be patient with yourself, and trust that with consistent effort, your hair will thrive.

Product Recommendations

Choosing the right products can make a significant difference in the health and growth of your relaxed hair. Here are some general categories and recommendations:

• Moisturizing Shampoos: Look for shampoos that are sulfate-free and contain moisturizing ingredients like glycerin, shea butter, or natural oils.
• Conditioners: Opt for rich, creamy conditioners that are packed with moisturizing ingredients.
• Deep Conditioners: Choose deep conditioners that cater to your hair’s specific needs (moisture, protein).
• Leave-In Conditioners: Select water-based leave-in conditioners that provide hydration without being too heavy.
• Hair Oils: Use natural oils like coconut, argan, avocado, jojoba, or olive oil to seal in moisture and add shine.
• Heat Protectants: Always use a heat protectant spray or cream before using any heat styling tools.
• Protein Treatments: Choose protein treatments based on your hair’s specific needs. Be sure to follow directions and follow it with a moisturizing treatment.
• Edge Control: Use a gentle edge control to smooth down baby hairs without causing breakage or clogging pores.

Frequently Asked Questions About Relaxed Hair Growth

Q: How often should I relax my hair?
A: It’s generally recommended to relax your hair every 8-12 weeks, depending on your hair’s growth rate and texture. Listen to your hair and do not over-process it.

Q: How can I prevent breakage at the line of demarcation?
A: Gentle handling, proper moisture, and protein treatments, and minimizing stress to that area are crucial to prevent breakage at the line of demarcation. Also, avoid stretching relaxers for too long.

Q: Can I use oil on my relaxed hair?
A: Yes, natural oils are beneficial for relaxed hair. Use them to seal in moisture and add shine. Apply them after applying your leave-in conditioner.

Q: How do I know if my hair needs a protein treatment?
A: If your hair is excessively shedding, experiencing breakage, or feels limp and lacks elasticity, it may be a sign that you need a protein treatment. However, it should not be overdone. Too much protein can cause stiffness and brittleness.

Q: Is it better to air dry my relaxed hair or use a blow dryer?
A: Air drying is generally gentler on relaxed hair. If you must use a blow dryer, use a low heat setting and a diffuser attachment. Always apply a heat protectant first.

Q: How can I stop my relaxed hair from becoming dry and brittle?
A: Consistent moisturizing, deep conditioning, and avoiding over-processing are crucial to keeping your relaxed hair hydrated and healthy. Choose products that will keep the moisture in your hair, as well.

Q: Should I trim my ends if I’m trying to grow my hair longer?
A: Yes, regular trims are crucial for preventing split ends from traveling up the hair shaft and causing further breakage. Trimming keeps your hair healthy, even if it feels counterintuitive.

Q: What are some good protective styles for relaxed hair?
A: Braids, twists, buns, and weaves are good protective styles that can help retain length. Ensure that these are not too tight and avoid keeping them in for too long.

Conclusion

Growing long, healthy relaxed hair requires a deep understanding of its unique needs and a commitment to a consistent care routine. By prioritizing moisture, protein balance, gentle handling, and patience, you can achieve the healthy, beautiful relaxed hair you desire. Remember that consistency and patience are key. With the right care and techniques, you can unlock the full potential of your relaxed hair and enjoy the journey of healthy hair growth. You are not alone on this journey!