The Ultimate Guide to Leopard Gecko Care: Keeping Your Leos Happy and Healthy
Leopard geckos ( *Eublepharis macularius*) are popular pet reptiles, and for good reason! They’re relatively small, docile, and come in a dazzling array of colors and patterns (morphs). With proper care, these fascinating creatures can live for 10-20 years, becoming a long-term companion. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know to provide the best possible care for your leopard gecko, ensuring a long, healthy, and happy life.
## I. Getting Started: Is a Leopard Gecko Right For You?
Before bringing a leopard gecko home, it’s crucial to consider whether you can provide the necessary care. Ask yourself these questions:
* **Can I commit to a long-term pet?** Leopard geckos can live for over 10 years, requiring consistent care throughout their lifespan.
* **Can I provide the proper environment?** Leopard geckos need a specific temperature gradient, humidity level, and enclosure size.
* **Am I comfortable handling live insects?** Leopard geckos are insectivores and require a diet of live insects.
* **Can I afford the initial setup costs and ongoing expenses?** The initial setup can be expensive, and you’ll need to budget for food, supplements, and vet care.
* **Do I have time for daily/weekly care?** Leopard geckos require daily spot cleaning and weekly enclosure maintenance.
If you can honestly answer yes to these questions, then a leopard gecko might be the perfect pet for you!
## II. Setting Up Your Leopard Gecko’s Enclosure
Creating the right environment is paramount to your leopard gecko’s health and well-being. Here’s a breakdown of the essential components:
### A. Enclosure Size:
* **Minimum:** A 20-gallon long tank is the bare minimum for one adult leopard gecko. However, bigger is always better! A 30 or 40-gallon breeder tank will provide more space for enrichment and exploration.
* **Multiple Geckos:** While leopard geckos can be housed together (females only, never males together), it’s generally recommended to house them individually. Cohabitation can lead to stress, competition for resources, and even injury. If you choose to house multiple females together, provide a significantly larger enclosure (at least 40 gallons) and plenty of hiding spots to minimize conflict.
### B. Substrate:
The substrate is the material that lines the bottom of the enclosure. Choosing the right substrate is crucial for your gecko’s health.
* **Safe Options:**
* **Paper Towels:** An excellent option for quarantine or juvenile geckos. They’re easy to clean and allow you to monitor your gecko’s droppings.
* **Reptile Carpet:** Easy to clean and reusable, but it can harbor bacteria if not cleaned thoroughly.
* **Slate or Ceramic Tile:** Easy to clean, provides a solid surface for walking, and helps wear down their nails.
* **Non-Particulate Substrates:** These commercially available substrates are designed to be digestible if accidentally ingested, minimizing impaction risk. Follow manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
* **Avoid These Substrates:**
* **Sand:** A common misconception is that leopard geckos need sand because they come from desert environments. Sand is a major impaction risk, as geckos can accidentally ingest it while eating. Impaction is a life-threatening condition that requires veterinary intervention.
* **Wood Shavings (Cedar or Pine):** These shavings contain oils that can be toxic to reptiles.
* **Gravel:** Difficult to clean and can also be ingested, leading to impaction.
### C. Heating:
Leopard geckos are ectothermic, meaning they rely on external heat sources to regulate their body temperature. Providing a proper temperature gradient is essential for digestion, immune function, and overall health.
* **Heat Source:**
* **Under-Tank Heater (UTH):** This is the most common and recommended heat source. Choose a UTH that covers approximately 1/3 of the tank’s floor space. Attach it to the *outside* of the tank, underneath the substrate. Never place the UTH inside the tank, as this can cause burns.
* **Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE):** A CHE emits heat without light, making it suitable for nighttime heating. Use a CHE in conjunction with a UTH to maintain proper temperatures.
* **Heat Lamp (Red or Infrared):** While not ideal, a red or infrared heat lamp can be used as a supplemental heat source. Avoid white light bulbs, as they can disrupt your gecko’s day/night cycle.
* **Temperature Gradient:**
* **Basking Spot (Warm Side):** 88-92°F (31-33°C)
* **Cool Side:** 75-80°F (24-27°C)
* **Nighttime:** 65-75°F (18-24°C)
* **Thermostat:** A thermostat is essential to regulate the heat source and prevent overheating. Use a thermostat with a probe that is placed directly on the substrate above the UTH to accurately measure the temperature.
* **Thermometers:** Use two thermometers to monitor the temperatures on both the warm and cool sides of the enclosure. Digital thermometers with probes are the most accurate.
### D. Lighting:
Leopard geckos are crepuscular, meaning they are most active during twilight hours. While they don’t require UVB lighting for survival like diurnal reptiles, providing a low-level UVB bulb (5.0 UVB) can be beneficial for their overall health and well-being. UVB lighting helps them synthesize vitamin D3, which is essential for calcium absorption.
* **UVB Bulb:** If you choose to provide UVB lighting, use a low-level 5.0 UVB bulb designed for desert reptiles. Place the bulb above the enclosure, ensuring that it is not too close to the gecko (follow manufacturer’s instructions for proper distance). Replace the UVB bulb every 6-12 months, even if it still appears to be working, as the UVB output decreases over time.
* **Photoperiod:** Maintain a consistent day/night cycle of 12-14 hours of light and 10-12 hours of darkness. Use a timer to regulate the lighting schedule.
### E. Hides:
Leopard geckos are naturally shy and need hiding places to feel secure and reduce stress. Provide at least three hides:
* **Warm Hide:** Place this hide on the warm side of the enclosure, directly above the UTH.
* **Cool Hide:** Place this hide on the cool side of the enclosure.
* **Humid Hide:** This hide is essential for shedding. Place it on the warm side of the enclosure and keep it moist by misting it regularly with water. You can use a plastic container with a hole cut in the side, filled with damp paper towels, sphagnum moss, or eco earth.
### F. Water Dish:
Provide a shallow dish of fresh, clean water at all times. The dish should be large enough for your gecko to drink from but not so deep that it could drown. Change the water daily and clean the dish regularly to prevent bacterial growth.
### G. Enrichment:
While leopard geckos are not as active as some other reptiles, providing enrichment can help keep them stimulated and prevent boredom.
* **Climbing Branches:** Small, sturdy branches can provide climbing opportunities.
* **Rocks:** Rocks can provide basking spots and hiding places.
* **Fake Plants:** Fake plants can add visual appeal to the enclosure and provide cover.
* **Dig Box:** A small container filled with a safe digging substrate (such as eco earth) can allow your gecko to express natural digging behaviors. Make sure the container is deep enough to prevent substrate from being kicked out.
## III. Feeding Your Leopard Gecko
Leopard geckos are insectivores, meaning their diet consists solely of insects. Providing a varied and nutritious diet is essential for their health.
### A. Staple Insects:
* **Crickets:** A good staple insect that is readily available and relatively inexpensive. Gut-load crickets with nutritious foods for at least 24 hours before feeding them to your gecko (see below for gut-loading information).
* **Mealworms:** Another good staple insect that is easy to care for. However, mealworms are higher in fat than crickets, so they should be offered in moderation.
* **Dubia Roaches:** An excellent staple insect that is nutritious and easy to digest. Dubia roaches are also less likely to escape than crickets.
### B. Occasional Treats:
* **Waxworms:** High in fat and should only be offered as an occasional treat (once or twice a week). They can be used to entice picky eaters.
* **Superworms:** Similar to mealworms but larger. Offer in moderation due to their high fat content.
* **Hornworms:** Nutritious and hydrating, making them a good treat. However, they can grow very quickly and may be too large for juvenile geckos.
* **Silkworms:** Highly nutritious and easy to digest. A good option for geckos with sensitive stomachs.
### C. Gut-Loading:
Gut-loading is the process of feeding nutritious foods to feeder insects before offering them to your gecko. This ensures that your gecko receives the maximum nutritional benefit from its food. Some good gut-loading options include:
* **Commercial Gut-Loading Diets:** These diets are specifically formulated for feeder insects and contain a variety of vitamins and minerals.
* **Fresh Vegetables:** Offer a variety of fresh vegetables, such as carrots, sweet potatoes, collard greens, and mustard greens.
* **Fruits:** Offer fruits in moderation, as they are high in sugar. Good options include apples, bananas, and berries.
* **Oatmeal:** A good source of carbohydrates and fiber.
### D. Supplementation:
Supplementing your gecko’s diet with calcium and vitamin D3 is crucial for preventing metabolic bone disease (MBD), a common and serious condition in reptiles. There are two main types of supplements:
* **Calcium Powder:** Use a calcium powder *without* vitamin D3 for daily dusting of insects. This ensures that your gecko receives adequate calcium without overdosing on vitamin D3.
* **Calcium Powder with Vitamin D3:** Use a calcium powder *with* vitamin D3 1-2 times per week. This provides your gecko with the vitamin D3 it needs to absorb calcium properly. If you are providing UVB lighting, you may need to supplement with vitamin D3 less frequently.
* **Multivitamin Powder:** Use a multivitamin powder 1-2 times per month to provide a range of essential vitamins and minerals. Be careful not to over-supplement, as this can be harmful.
### E. Feeding Schedule:
* **Juveniles (up to 6 months):** Feed daily, offering as many insects as they will eat in a 15-minute period.
* **Adults (over 6 months):** Feed every other day, offering 5-7 appropriately sized insects.
* **Obese Geckos:** Reduce feeding frequency and portion sizes to help them lose weight.
### F. Feeding Tips:
* **Offer insects in a shallow dish:** This prevents them from escaping and makes it easier for your gecko to catch them.
* **Dust insects with supplements immediately before feeding:** This ensures that the supplements adhere to the insects.
* **Monitor your gecko’s weight and adjust feeding accordingly:** If your gecko is gaining weight too quickly, reduce feeding frequency or portion sizes. If your gecko is losing weight, increase feeding frequency or portion sizes.
* **Never leave live insects in the enclosure unattended:** Insects can stress or even bite your gecko.
## IV. Handling Your Leopard Gecko
Leopard geckos are generally docile and tolerate handling well, but it’s important to handle them gently and respectfully.
### A. Getting Your Gecko Used to Handling:
* **Start Slowly:** When you first bring your gecko home, give it a few days to adjust to its new environment before attempting to handle it.
* **Short Sessions:** Start with short handling sessions (5-10 minutes) and gradually increase the duration as your gecko becomes more comfortable.
* **Gentle Approach:** Approach your gecko slowly and avoid sudden movements. Pick it up gently from underneath, supporting its body with your hand.
* **Low to the Ground:** Keep your gecko low to the ground during handling sessions to prevent injury if it jumps or falls.
* **Positive Reinforcement:** Offer a treat (such as a waxworm) after handling to create a positive association.
### B. Proper Handling Techniques:
* **Support the Body:** Always support your gecko’s entire body when handling it. Avoid holding it by the tail, as it can drop its tail as a defense mechanism (autotomy). While the tail will regenerate, it will not look the same as the original tail.
* **Gentle Grip:** Use a gentle but firm grip to prevent your gecko from escaping. Avoid squeezing it too tightly.
* **Wash Your Hands:** Always wash your hands before and after handling your gecko to prevent the spread of bacteria.
* **Supervise Children:** Supervise children closely when they are handling leopard geckos.
### C. Recognizing Signs of Stress:
* **Tail Waving:** While some tail waving is normal, excessive tail waving can be a sign of stress.
* **Hiding:** If your gecko is constantly hiding and avoiding interaction, it may be stressed.
* **Aggression:** Hissing or biting can be signs of stress or fear.
* **Refusal to Eat:** Stress can cause your gecko to lose its appetite.
If you notice any of these signs of stress, reduce handling frequency and duration. Provide more hiding places in the enclosure and ensure that the environmental conditions are optimal.
## V. Maintaining Your Leopard Gecko’s Enclosure
Regular cleaning and maintenance are essential for keeping your gecko healthy and preventing the buildup of bacteria and parasites.
### A. Daily Maintenance:
* **Spot Cleaning:** Remove any feces or urates (white, chalky deposits) from the enclosure daily.
* **Check Water Dish:** Ensure that the water dish is full of fresh, clean water.
* **Check Temperatures:** Verify that the temperatures on the warm and cool sides of the enclosure are within the recommended range.
### B. Weekly Maintenance:
* **Thorough Cleaning:** Remove all substrate, hides, and decorations from the enclosure.
* **Disinfect the Enclosure:** Wash the enclosure with warm, soapy water and disinfect it with a reptile-safe disinfectant. Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry completely before replacing the substrate and decorations.
* **Clean Hides and Decorations:** Wash hides and decorations with warm, soapy water and rinse thoroughly.
* **Replace Substrate:** Replace the substrate with fresh, clean substrate.
* **Clean Water Dish:** Scrub the water dish with warm, soapy water and rinse thoroughly.
### C. Monthly Maintenance:
* **Deep Clean Humid Hide:** Remove the substrate from the humid hide and replace it with fresh, damp substrate. Disinfect the humid hide container.
* **Inspect for Pests:** Check the enclosure and your gecko for signs of mites or other parasites.
## VI. Common Health Problems in Leopard Geckos
While leopard geckos are generally hardy animals, they are susceptible to certain health problems. Being aware of these problems and knowing how to recognize the symptoms is crucial for providing timely veterinary care.
### A. Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD):
MBD is a common and serious condition caused by a calcium deficiency. Symptoms include:
* **Lethargy:** Decreased activity level.
* **Weakness:** Difficulty moving or supporting their weight.
* **Tremors:** Muscle twitching or shaking.
* **Swollen Limbs:** Swelling of the legs or toes.
* **Kinked Tail:** Deformity of the tail.
* **Soft Jaw:** The jaw may feel soft and pliable.
**Prevention:** Proper supplementation with calcium and vitamin D3, as well as providing UVB lighting, is essential for preventing MBD.
**Treatment:** MBD requires veterinary treatment, which may include calcium injections, oral calcium supplementation, and supportive care.
### B. Impaction:
Impaction occurs when a leopard gecko ingests indigestible material, such as sand or large pieces of substrate, which blocks the digestive tract. Symptoms include:
* **Loss of Appetite:** Refusal to eat.
* **Lethargy:** Decreased activity level.
* **Constipation:** Absence of feces.
* **Swollen Abdomen:** A hard, distended abdomen.
**Prevention:** Avoid using particulate substrates, such as sand. Offer food in a dish to prevent ingestion of substrate.
**Treatment:** Mild impaction may resolve on its own with increased hydration and warm soaks. Severe impaction requires veterinary treatment, which may include enemas, mineral oil administration, or surgery.
### C. Dysecdysis (Abnormal Shedding):
Dysecdysis occurs when a leopard gecko has difficulty shedding its skin properly. Symptoms include:
* **Patches of Retained Shed:** Patches of old skin remaining on the body, especially around the eyes, toes, and tail.
* **Constriction:** Retained shed can constrict blood flow to the toes or tail, leading to tissue damage or loss of digits.
**Prevention:** Provide a humid hide to help your gecko shed properly. Ensure that the humidity level in the enclosure is adequate.
**Treatment:** Gently remove retained shed with a damp cotton swab. If the shed is tightly constricted around the toes or tail, seek veterinary care.
### D. Respiratory Infections:
Respiratory infections can be caused by bacterial or viral infections. Symptoms include:
* **Wheezing or Clicking Sounds:** Noisy breathing.
* **Discharge from the Nostrils or Mouth:** Mucus or pus.
* **Lethargy:** Decreased activity level.
* **Loss of Appetite:** Refusal to eat.
**Prevention:** Maintain proper temperature and humidity levels in the enclosure. Avoid overcrowding.
**Treatment:** Respiratory infections require veterinary treatment, which may include antibiotics or antiviral medications.
### E. Parasites:
Leopard geckos can be infected with internal or external parasites. Symptoms include:
* **Weight Loss:** Gradual or rapid weight loss.
* **Loss of Appetite:** Refusal to eat.
* **Diarrhea:** Loose or watery stools.
* **Regurgitation:** Throwing up food.
* **Mites:** Tiny, crawling insects on the skin.
**Prevention:** Quarantine new geckos before introducing them to your existing collection. Practice good hygiene and clean the enclosure regularly.
**Treatment:** Parasitic infections require veterinary treatment, which may include deworming medications or topical treatments for mites.
## VII. Finding a Veterinarian
It is crucial to find a veterinarian who is experienced in treating reptiles. Not all veterinarians are knowledgeable about reptile care, so it’s important to do your research. Ask your local reptile store for recommendations or search online for reptile veterinarians in your area. Schedule a wellness checkup for your leopard gecko when you first bring it home and annually thereafter. Regular veterinary checkups can help detect health problems early and prevent them from becoming more serious.
## VIII. Conclusion
Providing proper care for a leopard gecko is a rewarding experience. By following the guidelines in this comprehensive guide, you can ensure that your gecko lives a long, healthy, and happy life. Remember to do your research, provide a proper environment, feed a nutritious diet, handle your gecko gently, and seek veterinary care when needed. With dedication and attention, you can enjoy the companionship of these fascinating reptiles for many years to come.