Ultimate Guide: How to Wear a Kilt the Right Way – From Pleats to Sporran
Wearing a kilt is more than just putting on a garment; it’s donning a symbol of Scottish (or sometimes Irish) heritage, pride, and tradition. Whether you’re attending a formal event, a casual gathering, or simply embracing your ancestry, knowing how to wear a kilt correctly is essential. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step, from selecting the right kilt to mastering the accessories, ensuring you look and feel your best in this iconic attire.
Understanding the Kilt
Before diving into the specifics of how to wear a kilt, it’s important to understand what it is. The kilt is a knee-length garment with pleats in the back, traditionally made of tartan wool. Tartan is a patterned cloth consisting of crisscrossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colors. These patterns often represent specific Scottish clans or families, although there are also district tartans and universal tartans.
Key Components of a Kilt Outfit:
* The Kilt: The centerpiece of the ensemble, traditionally made of wool with specific tartan patterns.
* Kilt Pin: A decorative pin worn on the outer apron of the kilt. It adds weight and prevents the apron from flapping open.
* Sporran: A pouch worn around the waist, hanging in front of the kilt. It serves as a traditional Scottish pocket.
* Belt: A wide leather belt worn around the waist, usually with a decorative buckle.
* Kilt Hose: Wool socks worn up to the knee, often with decorative flashes.
* Flashes: Decorative bands of fabric worn at the top of the kilt hose, visible from the side.
* Ghillie Brogues: Traditional Scottish shoes with long laces that wrap around the ankles.
* Sgian Dubh: A small, concealed knife worn in the kilt hose (optional, and regulations vary).
* Shirt and Jacket: The type of shirt and jacket depends on the formality of the occasion (more on this later).
Step-by-Step Guide to Wearing a Kilt
Now, let’s get into the detailed steps of how to wear a kilt properly:
Step 1: Choosing the Right Kilt
The first step is selecting the right kilt. Consider the following factors:
* Tartan: Decide whether you want to wear a clan tartan, a district tartan, or a universal tartan. If you have Scottish ancestry, researching your family’s tartan is a great starting point. If not, you can choose a tartan you simply like. Be aware that some tartans are restricted and can only be worn by members of the associated clan or organization.
* Material: Kilts are traditionally made of wool, but you can also find kilts made of acrylic or other synthetic materials. Wool is more authentic and durable, but it can also be more expensive and require more care. Acrylic kilts are more affordable and easier to clean, but they may not look as authentic.
* Length: The length of the kilt is crucial. A properly fitted kilt should reach the top of the kneecap when you are kneeling. This ensures it hangs correctly and shows off the kilt hose.
* Weight: Kilt weight is measured in ounces per yard. Heavier kilts (16oz) are typically used for formal events, while lighter kilts (13oz) are more comfortable for casual wear.
Measuring for a Kilt:
To ensure the perfect fit, take these measurements:
* Waist: Measure around your natural waistline, typically just above your navel.
* Hip: Measure around the widest part of your hips.
* Kilt Length: Kneel on a flat surface and measure from your natural waistline to the floor. This measurement determines the length of the kilt.
Step 2: Putting on the Kilt
Once you have your kilt, follow these steps to put it on:
1. Positioning: Stand straight with your legs slightly apart. Hold the kilt around your waist, ensuring the pleats are at the back. The kilt should wrap around your body, with the unpleated apron (the front panel) overlapping the pleated section.
2. Securing the Kilt: Wrap the kilt around your waist, bringing the inner apron across your body and securing it with the inner buckle and strap. This strap is usually hidden inside the kilt. Adjust the overlap so that the edge of the inner apron reaches approximately to your side.
3. Adjusting the Outer Apron: Bring the outer apron across your body, overlapping the inner apron. Secure it with the outer buckle and strap. Ensure the kilt sits comfortably and securely on your waist.
4. Checking the Length: The bottom edge of the kilt should fall just at the top of your kneecap when you are kneeling. If it’s too long or too short, adjust the straps until you achieve the correct length. A tailor can adjust the kilt length permanently if necessary.
Step 3: Wearing the Kilt Belt
The kilt belt is an essential accessory that not only adds to the overall look but also helps to secure the kilt.
1. Positioning: Place the belt around your waist, over the top edge of the kilt. The buckle should be centered at the front.
2. Adjusting: Adjust the belt so that it fits snugly but comfortably. The belt should sit flat against your waist, without any gaps or creases.
3. Buckle: Choose a buckle that complements the kilt and the occasion. Simple, plain buckles are suitable for casual wear, while more ornate buckles are appropriate for formal events.
Important Note: Traditionally, you do not wear a belt with a waistcoat (vest) because the waistcoat covers the waist of the kilt. The belt is optional for semi-formal events, such as a day wedding, where a Prince Charlie jacket isn’t worn.
Step 4: Putting on the Kilt Hose and Flashes
The kilt hose and flashes are crucial for completing the traditional look.
1. Kilt Hose: Roll the kilt hose down to just below the knee. This creates a thicker section of sock that will support the flashes.
2. Positioning the Flashes: Position the flashes on the outside of your legs, just below the rolled-down part of the kilt hose. Ensure that the flashes are evenly spaced and that the straps are facing inwards.
3. Securing the Flashes: Fasten the straps of the flashes around your leg, ensuring they are snug but not too tight. The flashes should be visible from the side when the kilt is worn.
4. Rolling Up the Hose: Roll the kilt hose back up to just below the knee, covering the straps of the flashes. The top of the hose should sit neatly against your leg.
Step 5: Wearing the Ghillie Brogues
Ghillie brogues are the traditional Scottish shoes worn with a kilt. They are characterized by their long laces, which are tied around the ankles.
1. Putting on the Brogues: Put on the ghillie brogues and lace them up as you would with regular shoes.
2. Tying the Laces: Once the shoes are laced, bring the laces up the front of your leg, crossing them over each other as you go. Wrap the laces around your ankle several times, ensuring they are snug but not too tight.
3. Tucking in the Laces: Tie the laces in a knot on the outside of your ankle. Tuck the ends of the laces into the side of your kilt hose. This keeps them out of the way and prevents them from flapping around.
Step 6: Attaching the Sporran
The sporran is a traditional Scottish pouch worn around the waist, hanging in front of the kilt. It serves as a pocket, as kilts traditionally don’t have them.
1. Attaching the Sporran Chain or Strap: Most sporrans come with a chain or leather strap. Thread the chain or strap through the loops on the back of the kilt, ensuring the sporran hangs in the center of your body.
2. Adjusting the Length: Adjust the length of the chain or strap so that the sporran hangs comfortably and doesn’t swing around too much. The top of the sporran should sit just below the buckle of your kilt belt.
3. Types of Sporrans:
* Day Sporran: A simple leather sporran suitable for casual wear.
* Dress Sporran: A more ornate sporran, often made of fur or leather with metal detailing, worn for formal occasions.
* Semi-Dress Sporran: A versatile sporran that can be worn for both casual and semi-formal events.
Step 7: Adding the Kilt Pin
The kilt pin is a decorative pin worn on the outer apron of the kilt. It serves both a functional and aesthetic purpose.
1. Positioning the Pin: Place the kilt pin on the outer apron of the kilt, approximately 4 inches (10 cm) from the bottom edge and 2 inches (5 cm) from the side. The pin should pass through both the outer apron and the underlying fabric to prevent the apron from flapping open.
2. Choosing a Kilt Pin: Select a kilt pin that complements the kilt and the occasion. Common designs include clan crests, thistles, and other Scottish symbols.
Step 8: The Sgian Dubh (Optional)
The Sgian Dubh (pronounced *skee-an doo*) is a small, concealed knife traditionally worn in the kilt hose. Wearing a Sgian Dubh is optional, and regulations regarding knives vary, so it’s important to be aware of local laws.
1. Placement: If you choose to wear a Sgian Dubh, tuck it into the top of your kilt hose on the side of your dominant hand. Only the handle should be visible.
2. Considerations: Consider the occasion and location. In some settings, wearing a knife may be inappropriate or prohibited.
Choosing the Right Shirt and Jacket
The shirt and jacket you wear with your kilt will depend on the formality of the occasion.
Formal Events
* Prince Charlie Jacket and Waistcoat: This is the most formal option. The Prince Charlie jacket is a short, black jacket with silver buttons, worn with a matching waistcoat and a bow tie. A dress sporran and ghillie brogues complete the look. It’s typically worn for black-tie events, weddings, and formal dinners.
* Argyll Jacket and Waistcoat: The Argyll jacket is a more versatile option that can be worn for both formal and semi-formal events. It is a black or tweed jacket with a single-button closure, worn with a matching waistcoat and a dress or semi-dress sporran. You can wear it with a bow tie or a standard necktie.
Semi-Formal Events
* Argyll Jacket (Without Waistcoat): For semi-formal events like day weddings or highland games, you can wear an Argyll jacket without the waistcoat. A standard necktie is usually worn in this case.
* Jacobite Shirt: This loose-fitting shirt with lace-up detailing at the neck is a historical and slightly less formal option. It’s often paired with a kilt for re-enactments or casual gatherings.
Casual Events
* Tweed Jacket: A tweed jacket can be paired with a kilt for a more casual, rustic look. Earth tones and heavier fabrics work well.
* Simple Shirt: For very casual events, you can wear a simple shirt with your kilt. A plain t-shirt or a casual button-down shirt can work, depending on the context. In this case, the belt may be optional.
Do’s and Don’ts of Wearing a Kilt
To ensure you wear your kilt with respect and style, here are some do’s and don’ts:
Do’s:
* Do research your tartan and wear it with pride.
* Do ensure your kilt fits properly and is the correct length.
* Do wear the appropriate accessories for the occasion.
* Do maintain a respectful demeanor while wearing a kilt, understanding its cultural significance.
* Do take care of your kilt by cleaning and storing it properly.
* Do be prepared to answer questions about your kilt and its history.
Don’ts:
* Don’t wear a kilt if you have no connection to Scottish or Irish heritage and are doing so disrespectfully. Wear it to honor, not to mock.
* Don’t wear the wrong accessories or mix formal and casual elements inappropriately.
* Don’t reveal what’s worn (or not worn) underneath the kilt. It’s a matter of personal choice, but discretion is key. The tradition, after all, is “true Scotsman”.
* Don’t wear a kilt that is too long or too short.
* Don’t forget the kilt pin – it is practical as well as decorative.
* Don’t treat the kilt as a costume. It is a garment with deep cultural roots.
Caring for Your Kilt
A kilt is an investment, so it’s important to take care of it properly to ensure it lasts for many years.
* Cleaning: Wool kilts should be dry-cleaned only. Acrylic kilts can be hand-washed or machine-washed on a gentle cycle.
* Storage: Store your kilt on a kilt hanger to prevent creases and wrinkles. Avoid storing it in direct sunlight, as this can fade the colors.
* Repair: If your kilt gets damaged, take it to a professional tailor for repairs. Avoid trying to repair it yourself, as you could make the damage worse.
* Ironing: Use a low heat setting and iron the kilt inside out. Avoid ironing the pleats directly, as this can flatten them.
Conclusion
Wearing a kilt is a wonderful way to connect with your heritage and make a statement. By following this comprehensive guide, you can confidently wear a kilt for any occasion, knowing that you are doing so with respect and style. From selecting the right kilt to mastering the accessories, every step is important in creating a memorable and authentic look. So, embrace the tradition, honor your roots, and wear your kilt with pride! And remember, while this guide offers extensive advice, feel free to adapt it to your own personal style within the bounds of respect for the garment’s historical and cultural significance. Sláinte mhath! (Good health!)