Ultimate Guide to Backcombing: Achieve Maximum Volume and Texture

Backcombing, also known as teasing or ratting, is a styling technique used to create volume, texture, and lift in your hair. It’s a fantastic way to add drama to your hairstyles, provide a foundation for updos, or simply give your hair a fuller, more voluminous appearance. While backcombing has gotten a bad rap over the years (often associated with damage), when done correctly and with the right tools and techniques, it can be a relatively safe and effective way to achieve your desired look. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about backcombing, from the basics to advanced tips and tricks.

What is Backcombing?

Backcombing involves gently pushing sections of hair towards the scalp using a comb or brush. This creates a matted, tangled texture that acts as a structural support for the hair above it. Essentially, you’re creating a controlled nest of hair that adds volume and holds shape. It’s important to note that backcombing isn’t about creating large, impenetrable knots. The goal is to create subtle texture that provides lift and body without causing excessive damage.

Why Backcomb? Benefits and Uses

Backcombing offers a range of benefits for various hair types and styles:

* **Volume and Lift:** This is the primary reason people backcomb. It instantly adds volume at the roots, making fine or flat hair appear thicker and fuller.
* **Texture:** Backcombing creates a textured base, making hairstyles more interesting and visually appealing. It’s especially useful for sleek, polished styles that need a touch of grit.
* **Foundation for Updos:** Backcombing provides a solid foundation for updos like buns, ponytails, and braids. It helps secure the style and prevents it from falling flat.
* **Shape and Structure:** Backcombing can be used to sculpt and shape hairstyles, creating dramatic shapes and silhouettes.
* **Longer-Lasting Styles:** Backcombed hair tends to hold styles better and longer, especially in humid or windy conditions.

Tools You’ll Need

Having the right tools is essential for successful and damage-free backcombing:

* **A Backcombing Comb or Brush:** This is arguably the most important tool. Look for a comb with fine, closely spaced teeth or a specialized backcombing brush with boar bristles or nylon bristles arranged in a specific pattern. The ideal comb or brush will allow you to gently tease the hair without snagging or pulling.
* **Backcombing Comb:** These combs typically have a long, thin handle that can be used for sectioning and a row of fine teeth that are perfect for creating texture. Many also have a pointed end for precise sectioning.
* **Backcombing Brush:** These brushes often have multiple rows of bristles that are designed to grip the hair and create volume. Some also have a pointed handle for sectioning.
* **Sectioning Clips:** Clips are essential for keeping the hair you’re not working on out of the way. They help you create clean sections and prevent tangling.
* **Hair Spray:** A light to medium hold hair spray is needed to set the backcombed sections and prevent them from falling flat. Choose a hair spray that’s flexible and doesn’t leave a sticky residue.
* **Heat Protectant Spray (Optional):** If you’re using heat styling tools in conjunction with backcombing, protect your hair from heat damage.
* **Detangling Brush:** A wide-tooth comb or a detangling brush is crucial for gently removing the backcombing without causing breakage. Be patient and work slowly to avoid damaging your hair.
* **Mirror:** A mirror is essential for seeing the back of your head and ensuring even distribution of volume.

Preparing Your Hair for Backcombing

Proper preparation is key to minimizing damage and achieving the best results:

1. **Start with Clean, Dry Hair:** Dirty or oily hair is more likely to tangle and become damaged during backcombing. Wash and dry your hair thoroughly before you begin.
2. **Apply Heat Protectant (If Using Heat):** If you plan to use a curling iron, straightener, or blow dryer, apply a heat protectant spray to shield your hair from heat damage. Let it dry completely.
3. **Brush Your Hair Thoroughly:** Remove any tangles or knots before you start backcombing. This will prevent the comb or brush from snagging and causing breakage.
4. **Consider Texturizing Products (Optional):** If you have fine or slippery hair, consider using a texturizing spray or mousse to give your hair more grip and hold. This will make it easier to backcomb and prevent the style from falling flat.

Step-by-Step Guide to Backcombing

Follow these detailed steps to backcomb your hair effectively:

1. **Section Your Hair:** Use the pointed end of your backcombing comb or your fingers to create a clean section of hair. The size of the section will depend on the amount of volume you want to achieve. For subtle volume, start with smaller sections (about 1-2 inches wide). For more dramatic volume, use larger sections (up to 3-4 inches wide). Clip the remaining hair out of the way.
2. **Hold the Section Upright:** Hold the section of hair taut and perpendicular to your head. This will create the most lift at the roots.
3. **Position the Comb or Brush:** Insert the comb or brush a few inches away from the roots. The closer you start to the roots, the more volume you’ll create, but also the harder it will be to remove the backcombing later. It’s generally best to start a bit further down and work your way closer to the roots gradually.
4. **Gently Push the Hair Downward:** Using short, gentle strokes, push the comb or brush towards the scalp. Avoid pulling or yanking the hair, as this can cause breakage. The goal is to create a gentle matting of the hair, not a large knot. Stop a few inches from the scalp to avoid damaging the roots. Aim for 2-3 strokes per section initially.
5. **Repeat the Process:** Repeat the backcombing motion a few more times, working your way closer to the roots with each stroke. Remember to be gentle and avoid pulling or yanking the hair. You’ll feel the hair becoming more textured and matted. The amount of backcombing you need to do will depend on your hair type and the desired level of volume. Fine hair typically requires less backcombing than thick hair.
6. **Spray with Hair Spray:** Once you’ve achieved the desired level of volume, lightly spray the backcombed section with hair spray. This will help set the style and prevent it from falling flat. Hold the hair spray about 8-10 inches away from your head to avoid saturating the hair.
7. **Repeat on Other Sections:** Repeat steps 1-6 on the remaining sections of hair, working your way around your head. Focus on the areas where you want to create the most volume, such as the crown of your head or the sides of your face.
8. **Smooth the Top Layer:** Once you’ve backcombed all the desired sections, gently smooth the top layer of your hair with a soft brush. This will conceal the backcombing and create a more polished look. Be careful not to brush out the backcombing, just smooth the surface.
9. **Style as Desired:** Now that you’ve added volume and texture to your hair, you can style it as desired. Create an updo, a ponytail, or simply wear your hair down with added lift and body.

Advanced Backcombing Techniques

Once you’ve mastered the basic backcombing technique, you can experiment with these advanced tips and tricks:

* **Directional Backcombing:** Instead of backcombing straight down towards the scalp, try backcombing at an angle. This can help you create more targeted volume and shape. For example, backcombing upwards and outwards can create a more dramatic lift at the crown of your head.
* **Root Lifting:** For maximum root lift, focus your backcombing efforts on the very roots of your hair. This can be tricky, so be extra gentle and use a fine-toothed comb. You can also use a root-lifting spray to add extra hold.
* **Backcombing for Texture:** To create a more textured look, backcomb random sections of hair throughout your head. This will add dimension and movement to your hairstyle.
* **Backcombing for Braids:** Backcombing the sections of hair before braiding them can add volume and thickness to the braid. This is especially useful for creating fuller, more dramatic braids.
* **Backcombing for Ponytails:** Backcombing the roots of your hair before putting it in a ponytail can create a more voluminous and stylish ponytail. You can also backcomb the ponytail itself to add extra texture and body.

Backcombing Different Hair Types

The backcombing technique may need to be adjusted slightly depending on your hair type:

* **Fine Hair:** Fine hair is more prone to damage, so be extra gentle when backcombing. Use a light touch and avoid over-backcombing. Use smaller sections and a light-hold hair spray. A volumizing mousse applied before backcombing can help add grip and hold.
* **Thick Hair:** Thick hair can handle more aggressive backcombing, but it’s still important to be gentle. Use larger sections and a medium-hold hair spray. Make sure to distribute the backcombing evenly to avoid creating uneven volume.
* **Curly Hair:** Backcombing curly hair can be tricky, as it’s already prone to tangling. Use a wide-tooth comb and be extra gentle when backcombing. Focus on the roots and avoid backcombing the entire length of the hair. A curl-defining cream or gel can help control frizz and define your curls after backcombing.
* **Straight Hair:** Straight hair tends to be slippery, so it can be difficult to get backcombing to hold. Use a texturizing spray or mousse to add grip and hold. Backcomb in small sections and use a firm-hold hair spray.

How to Remove Backcombing Without Damage

Removing backcombing properly is just as important as applying it. Rushing the process or using the wrong tools can cause serious damage to your hair. Follow these steps to remove backcombing safely and effectively:

1. **Apply a Detangling Product:** Generously apply a detangling spray or conditioner to your hair, focusing on the backcombed sections. This will help loosen the knots and make it easier to comb through. You can also use a hair oil, such as coconut oil or argan oil, to lubricate the hair and prevent breakage. Let the product sit for a few minutes to allow it to penetrate the hair.
2. **Use a Wide-Tooth Comb or Detangling Brush:** Start at the ends of your hair and gently comb through the backcombed sections. Work your way up towards the roots, slowly and patiently. Avoid pulling or yanking the hair, as this can cause breakage. If you encounter a knot, gently work it out with your fingers before continuing to comb.
3. **Be Patient:** Removing backcombing can take time, so be patient and don’t rush the process. It’s better to spend a little extra time removing the backcombing gently than to risk damaging your hair.
4. **Wash and Condition Your Hair:** Once you’ve removed all the backcombing, wash and condition your hair as usual. Use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner to replenish any lost moisture. You can also use a deep conditioner or hair mask to further hydrate and repair your hair.

Common Backcombing Mistakes to Avoid

To avoid damaging your hair and achieve the best results, avoid these common backcombing mistakes:

* **Backcombing Dirty Hair:** Dirty hair is more likely to tangle and become damaged during backcombing. Always start with clean, dry hair.
* **Using the Wrong Tools:** Using the wrong comb or brush can cause damage to your hair. Invest in a quality backcombing comb or brush with fine, closely spaced teeth.
* **Backcombing Too Aggressively:** Backcombing too aggressively can cause breakage and damage to your hair. Be gentle and use short, controlled strokes.
* **Backcombing the Entire Length of the Hair:** Backcombing the entire length of the hair can create a matted, tangled mess that’s difficult to remove. Focus on the roots and avoid backcombing the ends of your hair.
* **Not Using Hair Spray:** Hair spray helps set the backcombing and prevent it from falling flat. Always use a light to medium hold hair spray to set your style.
* **Rushing the Removal Process:** Rushing the removal process can cause serious damage to your hair. Be patient and use a detangling product and a wide-tooth comb to gently remove the backcombing.
* **Not Deep Conditioning After Backcombing:** Backcombing can dry out your hair, so it’s important to deep condition it afterwards to replenish lost moisture.

Backcombing vs. Teasing

While often used interchangeably, backcombing and teasing are slightly different techniques. Backcombing focuses on creating volume at the roots, while teasing is more about creating overall texture and lift throughout the hair. Backcombing is typically done with a comb, while teasing can be done with a comb or brush. The techniques used are also slightly different: backcombing involves pushing the hair towards the scalp, while teasing involves lifting and ruffling the hair.

Backcombing Hairstyles Ideas

Here are some hairstyle ideas that incorporate backcombing:

* **Voluminous Ponytail:** Backcomb the roots of your hair before putting it in a ponytail for added volume and lift. Smooth the top layer of your hair and secure with an elastic band. You can also backcomb the ponytail itself for extra texture.
* **Retro Updo:** Backcomb the crown of your head to create a voluminous retro updo. Style your hair into a bouffant or beehive and secure with bobby pins.
* **Textured Waves:** Backcomb random sections of your hair to create textured waves. Use a curling iron to create soft waves and finish with hair spray.
* **Braided Crown:** Backcomb the roots of your hair before braiding it into a crown for added volume and thickness.
* **Half-Up Hairstyle:** Backcomb the roots of your hair at the crown and pull the top section back into a half-up hairstyle. This will create a more voluminous and stylish look.

Conclusion

Backcombing is a versatile styling technique that can be used to create volume, texture, and lift in your hair. By following these tips and techniques, you can backcomb your hair safely and effectively without causing damage. Remember to use the right tools, prepare your hair properly, and be gentle when backcombing and removing the backcombing. With a little practice, you’ll be able to create a variety of stunning hairstyles with added volume and dimension.