Unmasking the Real Deal: A Comprehensive Guide to Authenticating a Squash Blossom Necklace

The squash blossom necklace, a stunning piece of Native American jewelry, is more than just an accessory; it’s a symbol of cultural heritage, artistry, and history. Its intricate design, featuring the iconic ‘naja’ pendant and stylized blossoms, has captivated collectors and enthusiasts for generations. However, with its popularity comes the unfortunate reality of imitations and reproductions. This comprehensive guide will equip you with the knowledge and skills to determine the authenticity of a squash blossom necklace, ensuring you’re investing in a genuine piece of art.

Understanding the History and Significance

Before diving into the authentication process, it’s crucial to understand the origins and significance of the squash blossom necklace. This knowledge will provide context and a deeper appreciation for the details you’ll be examining.

The squash blossom necklace is believed to have originated in the American Southwest, with early examples dating back to the late 19th century. The Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi tribes are renowned for their craftsmanship and distinct styles. It’s important to note that the term ‘squash blossom’ is a misnomer; the silver elements are actually stylized pomegranate blossoms, introduced by the Spanish conquistadors. The ‘naja,’ the crescent-shaped pendant at the necklace’s center, is also of Spanish origin, derived from Moorish designs and initially used as a protective symbol.

These necklaces are not merely decorative; they are imbued with cultural meaning and often worn during ceremonial occasions. They represent growth, prosperity, and the interconnectedness of life. Owning an authentic squash blossom necklace is a privilege, a connection to the rich history and traditions of the Native American artists who create them.

Key Elements of a Squash Blossom Necklace

Familiarizing yourself with the key elements of a squash blossom necklace is essential for authentication. Here’s a breakdown:

* **The Naja:** The naja is the centerpiece of the necklace, a crescent-shaped pendant that can vary in size and design. It typically features hand-stamped designs, repoussé (raised relief) work, and sometimes inlaid stones. The naja’s form is generally symmetrical, but minor variations due to handmade craftsmanship are expected.

* **Squash Blossoms (Pomegranate Blossoms):** These are the stylized flower-like elements, typically arranged along the necklace’s strands. They often feature a central round or oval cabochon (a polished, non-faceted stone) and are connected by silver beads. The blossom designs can vary, with some having a more detailed, petal-like appearance, while others are more simplified.

* **Silver Beads:** These are often hand-crafted and can come in various shapes and sizes. They are strung between the blossoms and form the bulk of the necklace’s length. The quality and consistency of the beads can indicate the piece’s age and maker.

* **Stones:** Turquoise is the most commonly used stone, but coral, lapis lazuli, onyx, and other stones can also be present. The quality of the stone and the manner in which it’s set are crucial indicators of authenticity.

* **Stringing:** Traditionally, squash blossom necklaces are strung on silver chain or a strong cord, often with a hand-made closure mechanism.

Detailed Steps to Authenticate a Squash Blossom Necklace

Now, let’s delve into the practical steps for authenticating a squash blossom necklace. These steps involve close observation, careful examination, and an understanding of the techniques used by Native American artisans.

Step 1: Examine the Silver

The silver used in authentic squash blossom necklaces is generally sterling silver (.925). This means that it is 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper, which adds durability. Here’s how to examine the silver:

* **Sterling Silver Markings:** Look for a “Sterling” mark or a “.925” stamp. This is usually located on the back of the naja or near the clasp. However, keep in mind that older pieces may not have these markings. The absence of a mark doesn’t automatically mean the piece is fake, but the presence of a mark is a good sign.

* **Patina:** Genuine silver develops a natural patina over time, a darkish, sometimes slightly greenish discoloration due to oxidation. This patina can be cleaned but is often left intact, as many collectors value its vintage character. A newly made piece will have a bright, almost mirror-like shine. Note that some fakers will try to artificially patina pieces so a detailed examination and understanding of natural oxidation is important. If you see black areas that appear painted or rubbed with blackening liquid on a new piece, this is a red flag.

* **Weight and Feel:** Sterling silver is a dense metal. A genuine piece should feel substantial in your hand. Imitations, especially those made from base metals like nickel, are often lighter and may feel flimsy. If it feels very light or appears to be plastic, it’s highly suspicious. Hold the necklace and note how it feels. Is it solid and substantial? Does it feel like a quality piece of jewelry?

* **Handmade Variations:** Authentic pieces are handcrafted, which means slight variations in the silverwork are normal. The individual squash blossoms or beads might not be perfectly identical. Machine-made pieces, on the other hand, will have a sterile, uniform look. Look for very minor variations in stamping, shaping and soldering. A perfect, seamless appearance should be cause for concern.

* **Stamping and Repoussé:** If the naja or blossoms have stamped designs or repoussé work, examine these closely. Authentic Native American work is characterized by clear, consistent stamp impressions. Fake pieces may have poorly defined or uneven stamps and repoussé work. Check for crisp edges, and that stamping is consistent in depth.

Step 2: Analyze the Stones

The stones, especially turquoise, are another crucial element to examine:

* **Authentic vs. Imitation Turquoise:** Real turquoise is a natural mineral, and its color and matrix (the web-like veining patterns) vary widely. High-quality turquoise is often very expensive. Imitation turquoise is often made from dyed howlite or plastic. Genuine turquoise will feel cool to the touch. Here’s how to spot the difference:
* **Color:** Genuine turquoise colors range from sky blue to green, with variations in between. Some turquoise has distinctive black or brown matrix patterns, and some is solid in color. Uniformly colored, dyed stones will often appear unnatural. Pay attention to vibrant, unnatural blues and greens.
* **Matrix:** Examine the matrix carefully. It should be natural-looking and not appear painted on or too perfect. If the matrix looks too uniform or artificial, it’s likely a fake.
* **Surface Texture:** Real turquoise will have a slightly porous surface, not a slick, perfectly smooth texture. Fake stones are frequently highly polished to have a glass-like finish. A slight texture is natural. Look for imperfections like small divots or other irregularities.
* **Weight:** Natural turquoise is relatively heavy. Plastic imitations will feel very light. Compare the weight of the stones to other pieces of turquoise you may have.
* **Price:** Extremely low prices for “turquoise” squash blossoms are a red flag. High-quality turquoise is expensive.
* **Stone Settings:** How the stones are set is also a key indicator. Genuine pieces feature carefully crafted bezels or settings. The stones will sit securely within their settings. Look for poorly made settings or gaps. The settings should be neat and consistent, not sloppy or uneven. If you see a lot of glue around stones, that’s another red flag that the piece may be a fake.
* **Other Stones:** If the necklace uses coral, lapis lazuli, or other stones, apply the same critical examination. Make sure the stones appear natural and of appropriate quality. The same rules for turquoise apply here, including considering price.

Step 3: Inspect the Stringing and Construction

The construction of a squash blossom necklace can reveal a lot about its authenticity:

* **Stringing Material:** Older pieces were often strung on durable cord, while newer pieces are strung on silver chain or a stronger, modern cord. Be wary of flimsy stringing or poorly made chains.
* **Closure:** Authentic pieces often have hand-made closures. Mass-produced pieces will usually have a standard commercially available clasp.
* **Symmetry:** Check the overall symmetry of the necklace. While handmade pieces will have slight variations, the overall layout should be balanced. A significantly lopsided design could be an indication of poor craftsmanship.
* **Bead Consistency:** The silver beads should be reasonably consistent in size and shape, with minor handmade variations. Highly uniform, perfectly round beads may be machine-made.
* **Soldering:** Check the solder points of the blossoms and the naja. Soldering should be neat and consistent. Look for messy or globby soldering, which indicates poor craftsmanship. The joins should be secure. Avoid pieces where connections are obviously glued instead of soldered.
* **Overall construction:** Check the feel and flow of the piece. Does it feel well made? Do all the parts flow together? Does it have a professional finish?

Step 4: Research the Artist (If Possible)

If the piece is signed, researching the artist is crucial:

* **Artist Markings:** Native American artists often sign their pieces with their initials, full names, or a hallmark (a unique symbol). These markings are usually found on the back of the naja or another flat area of the piece. Familiarize yourself with known artist signatures and hallmarks, and be cautious of misspelled names or suspicious hallmarks. You can search online databases of Native American jewelry hallmarks.
* **Tribal Affiliation:** If you can identify the artist or tribe, research their particular style and the materials they usually use. Understanding different regional styles will help identify differences. Navajos are known for their heavier silver work, Hopi pieces often feature overlay technique, and Zuni are known for their intricate inlay work. Recognizing these differences can help you narrow down where a piece originated.
* **Expert Opinions:** If you are not sure you can visit a reputable Native American arts dealer or a qualified appraiser for professional opinions. They will be familiar with the techniques and hallmarks of authentic pieces. If you believe you may have an especially valuable piece, an appraisal is a good idea.

Step 5: Consider the Source

Where you purchase the necklace can significantly impact its authenticity:

* **Reputable Dealers:** Buy from reputable dealers who specialize in Native American art and jewelry. Check their reviews and reputation, and seek recommendations. A dealer who is a member of a professional organization, such as the Indian Arts and Crafts Association, is a good sign. Look for dealers who are transparent and knowledgeable, and who stand behind the authenticity of their pieces.
* **Avoid Questionable Sources:** Be extremely cautious when buying from flea markets, online auctions, or other sources that don’t offer any guarantees. If the deal seems too good to be true, it probably is.
* **Documentation:** If the seller provides certificates of authenticity or provenance (history of ownership), scrutinize them carefully. They can be helpful but should be independently verified where possible.
* **Ask Questions:** Don’t be afraid to ask the seller questions about the necklace’s origin, materials, and craftsmanship. A reputable seller will be able to provide informed answers. Ask if the seller has ever had an authentication done and who performed that appraisal.

Common Red Flags to Watch Out For

Be vigilant for these red flags that may indicate a fake squash blossom necklace:

* **Extremely Low Prices:** If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is. Authentic squash blossom necklaces are generally expensive due to the materials and labor involved.
* **Mass-Produced Appearance:** Mass-produced jewelry will have a uniform and sterile look. Genuine pieces show slight variations due to hand-made craftsmanship.
* **Light Weight:** Authentic sterling silver pieces will be relatively heavy. If the necklace feels surprisingly light, it may be made of a base metal or plastic.
* **Fake Turquoise:** Look for signs of dyed or plastic imitation turquoise, such as unnatural colors or a glossy surface.
* **Sloppy Construction:** Messy soldering, poorly fitted stones, and flimsy construction are common in fakes.
* **Lack of Patina:** New pieces will be very bright. Older, genuine pieces will have a natural patina.
* **Absence of Markings:** While older pieces may not be marked, the absence of any marks on a piece that looks newer is suspicious.
* **Untrustworthy Seller:** Be cautious of sellers who cannot provide information about the piece’s origin, or who pressure you to buy. A reputable dealer is always happy to answer questions.
* **Unnatural Shine** If the piece has a new, highly polished appearance, and has areas that appear unnaturally shiny or artificially aged, that can be a red flag.

Caring for Your Squash Blossom Necklace

Once you’ve authenticated your squash blossom necklace, proper care will ensure its longevity:

* **Storage:** Store your necklace in a soft pouch or jewelry box to protect it from scratches and dust.
* **Cleaning:** Clean your necklace with a soft cloth. Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners, which can damage the silver and stones.
* **Professional Cleaning:** If your piece needs extensive cleaning, take it to a professional jeweler who specializes in Native American jewelry. They will be familiar with the proper cleaning techniques.
* **Handling:** Handle your necklace with care to avoid damage to the delicate stones and settings. Avoid wearing it in situations where it may be damaged.
* **Insurance:** For especially valuable pieces, have it appraised and consider insuring it.

Conclusion

Authenticating a squash blossom necklace requires a blend of knowledge, observation, and a healthy dose of skepticism. By carefully examining the silver, stones, construction, and, when possible, researching the artist and source, you can significantly increase your chances of acquiring a genuine piece of Native American art. Remember, this is an art form that should be celebrated, so do your due diligence, ask questions, and enjoy the timeless beauty of this remarkable piece of jewelry. Be an informed consumer and you will appreciate the true beauty and cultural history of your squash blossom necklace.